Exposure help

[Ursie]

Here are three photos, each of which represents a typical photo out of my 30D. I seem to always get them underexposed, or overexposed sometimes, but never right. Any tips on what I'm doing wrong. I can correct in PS, but what a pain to correct each one when I could get it right the first time. I know it's possible, but the operator is defective. Recomendations?

They all have the exif data embedded if you care to peek. I usually shoot Av, available light. I know fill flash would be helpful, but it seems like there is more than just that going on.

http://ursula-scrapgirls.smugmug.com/photos/151505583-O.jpg






http://ursula-scrapgirls.smugmug.com/photos/151506061-O.jpg

http://ursula-scrapgirls.smugmug.com/photos/151505533-O.jpg

[PhotosGuy]

See if this helps: Need an exposure crutch? (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=89123)

[John_B]

Ursie,
Seeing how you have a 30D I suggest you try putting the camera in spot metering. Then you can find the mid tone of the subject and set your camera from that reading. Another way using the spot metering is to find something white (or black) in the subject and then adjusting the shutter - or +. Another way is to spot meter off the lightest part of the subject and then meter off the darkest part of the subject and set camera for the middle of the two readings.
Hope that helps :)

[StewartR]

One of the easiest ways to avoid underexposure: Don't set negative exposure compensation!!!

#1 and #2 both have -0.67 stops of EC, which might be appropriate if they were dark subjects but is deifinitely not appropriate in these cases.

In #3 the camera has been fooled by the bright background. Spot metering would have helped, as would dialling in a bit of positive EC.

[Souwalker]

Hi

To piggy back on this thread, for the first photo, would setting the camera to M mode, then take a close meter reading of the person on the right (with the white stud ear-ring), move back out, recompose and set to that exposure, work?

I've got a 350D and don't have spot metering.

Rgds
Patrick

[John_B]

Souwalker,
Just use partial metering (its just a large spot), its how I did it with my 10D :)

[Souwalker]

Souwalker,
Just use partial metering (its just a large spot), its how I did it with my 10D :)

Hi John

I am assumming partial metering would work better for closeups, as above? I recall taking a picture of a scenery with some sun and clouds. I partial metered the clouds (no sun and dark) but the scene came out too dark. I thought by partial metering the cloudy clouds, I would avaoid overexposure.

Rgds
Pat

[John_B]

Souwalker,
In my opinion it works much better for all types of photos. I use spot (or partial on my 10D) for all my photos. :) The trick is to try to find in your subject something that is mid tone or 18% grey to meter from. You would need to post your photo with Exif data to figure it out, otherwise I am just guessing. :)

[Souwalker]

Here's a sample that came up too dark.
Should I have partial metered the blue sky?
Damn, why can't I save with the exif data in Paintshop pro? I have the 'Save Exif' data checked in the options menu...Grrr...!!
Rgds
Pat

[SkipD]

The problem with the last shot (the sign) is that it is back-lit and you did not compensate for that. If you are limited to the meter in your camera, what I would recommend for a situation like this is to meter the brighter areas in the clouds - the brightest area in your image- and (mentally) note the exposure for them. Then, meter either the sign or something else nearby that is lit the same as the sign - the darkest area in your image. Note the exposure for that.

Next, you need to determine whether or not the film (or DSLR system) can faithfully record both the brightest and the darkest areas. Compare the two exposure readings that you took on the brightest and darkest areas. Determine how many stops' difference there is. If the extremes are within about five stops, merely set the camera mid-way between the two readings.

If there's more than about a five-stop difference between the extremes, you cannot record it all with most of today's DSLR's. In this case you would have to determine which end of the spectrum to favor in your exposure.

With digital photography you have some options that you did not have for film. That includes taking several shots (assuming the subject is static) at different exposures and combining them in post-processing.

What you really need to do is learn how light meters work and how to use them in situations that are not "typical". This often means using the camera in manual exposure mode so that you can completely over-ride the camera's decision-making process. There's nothing at all wrong with manual mode, but it definitely is different from "point-n-shoot".

[Hellashot]

Hi John

I am assumming partial metering would work better for closeups, as above? I recall taking a picture of a scenery with some sun and clouds. I partial metered the clouds (no sun and dark) but the scene came out too dark. I thought by partial metering the cloudy clouds, I would avaoid overexposure.


You always can't meter for the brightest part of your frame because of the range of brightnesses. So you might have one very bright spot, but the rest of your frame be midtones. There metering off the bright part will leave your subject quite under exposed. Yes you can meter off the bright clouds, also white reflects twice as much light as 18% grey so if you meter off of white, you need to use EC +1 or so.

I most often use centerweighted metering and adjust my EC according to the range of brightnesses in the frame, and reviewing the histogram to check for under exposure or severe over exposure.

[Souwalker]

many thanks.

I am currenty reading Understanding Exposure but my 350D is with Canon for another 10 days or so :(

Once I get the camera back, I am going to experiment with M mode .

Rgds
pat