Filter Recomendations

[RogerrDalTx]

Hi Guys, I'm new to the forum and new to Canon (long time Minolta / Nikon guy) . I've started over from scratch two months ago building a new kit and it's time to pick up a few filters for my new lenses. I've got an XTi, Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 (67mm filter); Sigma 50-150 f/2.8 (67mm Filter) and just added the Canon 10-22mm EF-S (77mm filter).

I tend to be a value point guy and don't want to triple the price for the last 5% of improvement. I hear Hoya and B&W are good quality and decent prices.

I'm looking for a UV for each lens; just so I feel better that they are protected. They will stay on the lenses about 80% to 90% of the time.

I also want a circular polarizer; will probably buy both a 67 and 77mm one. I think stepping rings are a hassle.

And I want a graduated neutral density filter, especially for the 10-22mm.

Questions are. I see filters described as thin, extra coated, digital... ect... I'm not really sure what to go after here or what I need to look for in a filter. What in your opinion is the best "value point" filters to match the glass above? I'd like to get this covered for under $200. Suggestions?

Thanks
/Roger

[Jon]

Under $200 - I doubt it.
Minimum quality grades are Hoya's S-HMC or B+W's MRC coating (sometimes posted as MC by vendors). I don't have the 1022 so I don't know if you'd need a slim UV or CP filter for that - it may even depend on the make of the filter.

For grads you don't want a screw-in type but a rectangular like those from Singh Ray, Lee or Hi Tech. Screw-in ones leave you stuck with a fixed split which will dictate your composition, rather than the other way 'round. There's a good article on ND grads here (http://www.singh-ray.com/srgnd2.html).

[Marydoright]

I just bought a B+W circular polarizer for my 10-22 (77mm)....a thin multi-coated and that one filter alone was $165! just for 1! and thats cheap....they go up in price from there! LOL So be prepared, your $200 total will cover 1 filter alone, if you go for a good one.

As far as needing to go thin or not, I read where someone suggested that you didnt need a thin CP for the 10-22, so I went and checked out his pics to see his results (didnt want to buy thin if I didnt need to), and I saw nothing but vignetting on his shots at 10-12mm....maybe not a big deal to some or maybe he doesnt know what vignetting is, but I dont like that look and dont feel like spending time in CS2 fixing images I can easily avoid by buying the right filter off the bat, so I decided to go with a thin filter.....multi-coated of course, because thats the best way to go. I have no vignetting at all, and can also use that same filter for my 17-55 so it can serve my 2 fav lenses.

Good Luck :)

[r.morales]

I would also get some M T rings - [ no glass ]
I use them between the lens and filter . They make it easier to take off a bent filter . BUT , maybe I am the only one who has banged the filter when using Quick connect .
Only use " good filters " in a controlled area . Yea right -
The money you want to spend - start watching E-bay and only buy the ones with a guarantee . Pay the dollar for insurance .
http://stores.ebay.com/OEC-Camera-Accessories_W0QQcolZ2QQdirZ1QQfsubZ0QQftidZ2QQpZ2Q QtZkm

[JohnJ80]

Hi Guys, I'm new to the forum and new to Cannon (long time Minolta / Nikon guy) . I've started over from scratch two months ago building a new kit and it's time to pick up a few filters for my new lenses. I've got an XTi, Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 (67mm filter); Sigma 50-150 f/2.8 (67mm Filter) and just added the Canon 10-22mm EF-S (77mm filter).

I tend to be a value point guy and don't want to triple the price for the last 5% of improvement. I hear Hoya and B&W are good quality and decent prices.

I'm looking for a UV for each lens; just so I feel better that they are protected. There will stay on the lenses about 80% to 90% of the time.

I also want a circular polarizer; will probably buy both a 67 and 77mm one. I think stepping rings a hassle.

And I want a graduated neutral density filter, especially for the 10-22mm.

Questions are. I see filters described as thin, extra coated, digital... ect... I'm not really sure what to go after here or what I need to look for in a filter. What in your opinion is the best "value point" filters to match the glass above? I'd like to get this covered for under $200. Suggestions?

Thanks
/Roger

Good ones are not just marginally better:

UV and CP Filter tests (http://www.kenandchristine.com/gallery/1054387/1)

If you are going to buy one, they must be MRC coated or you will exacerbate flare issues.

No way are you going to get this done for $200. A B+W CP for 77mm is something like $149.

Especially if you are getting nice lenses (you are), it is foolhardy to put glass in front of them that is not of equal or better quality. Either that, or don't buy such nice lenses.

I'd forgo the UV lenses unless you are shooting in areas that might have salt spray, sand or water/snow/mist in the air. I'd concentrate on the CP's and then make sure you use the hoods all the time. I have them for most of my lenses, but I do shoot skiing (snow, ice pellets in the air) and marine/sailing where there is either salt spray at times or spray. Other than that, I'm pretty casual about the UV filters at other times (they do help at high altitude though).

For lenses, I go with B+W MRC all the way.

J

[foxbat]

You will need a drop-in filter system for your GND. You can save money by buying one drop-in polarizer for all instead of one screw-in for each lens.

[rklepper]

I only use the B+W MRC filters. I had the 10-22 and used the B+W MRC 010 F-Pro with no issues. I have used B+W and Heliopan with great success. I dislike the Hoya as they have a really strange coating on them that makes it difficult to clean and to me difficult means it will get done less.

Check out www.maxsaver.net (http://www.maxsaver.net) for great prices on B+W filters.


Hi Guys, I'm new to the forum and new to Cannon (long time Minolta / Nikon guy) . I've started over from scratch two months ago building a new kit and it's time to pick up a few filters for my new lenses. I've got an XTi, Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 (67mm filter); Sigma 50-150 f/2.8 (67mm Filter) and just added the Canon 10-22mm EF-S (77mm filter).

I tend to be a value point guy and don't want to triple the price for the last 5% of improvement. I hear Hoya and B&W are good quality and decent prices.

I'm looking for a UV for each lens; just so I feel better that they are protected. There will stay on the lenses about 80% to 90% of the time.

I also want a circular polarizer; will probably buy both a 67 and 77mm one. I think stepping rings a hassle.

And I want a graduated neutral density filter, especially for the 10-22mm.

Questions are. I see filters described as thin, extra coated, digital... ect... I'm not really sure what to go after here or what I need to look for in a filter. What in your opinion is the best "value point" filters to match the glass above? I'd like to get this covered for under $200. Suggestions?

Thanks
/Roger

[rklepper]

The only problem with that is as you increase the distance between the filter and your fron element you increase the liklihood that you will begin to have detrimental effects from the filter.



I would also get some M T rings - [ no glass ]
I use them between the lens and filter . They make it easier to take off a bent filter . BUT , maybe I am the only one who has banged the filter when using Quick connect .
Only use " good filters " in a controlled area . Yea right -
The money you want to spend - start watching E-bay and only buy the ones with a guarantee . Pay the dollar for insurance .
http://stores.ebay.com/OEC-Camera-Accessories_W0QQcolZ2QQdirZ1QQfsubZ0QQftidZ2QQpZ2Q QtZkm

[Jon]

I would also get some M T rings - [ no glass ]
I use them between the lens and filter . They make it easier to take off a bent filter . BUT , maybe I am the only one who has banged the filter when using Quick connect .
Only use " good filters " in a controlled area . Yea right -
The money you want to spend - start watching E-bay and only buy the ones with a guarantee . Pay the dollar for insurance .
http://stores.ebay.com/OEC-Camera-Accessories_W0QQcolZ2QQdirZ1QQfsubZ0QQftidZ2QQpZ2Q QtZkm
Especially with UWA lenses this will also increase the likelihood of vignetting. If you want impact protection, use your hood and get some filter wrenches.

[RogerrDalTx]

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. It seems every piece of equipment ends up costing 2x or 3x what I think it will from when I first start looking. My short term plan will be to buy a Hoya or B+W 77mm CP that's "thin and super coated" for the Canon 10-22mm and get a step down ring to 67mm to use it on my Tamron and Sigma. No more than I should need a CP I'll just deal with the step down ring to save $150 or $200.

I need to get into the habit of using my hoods all the time; right now I rarely do. And will grudgingly pony up $30.00 for little plastic hood that Canon didn't see fit to include with my $700 10-22mm; kind of feel scammed over that as it can't have cost more than about $.50 to make. My appreciation for Sigma and Tamron is growing.

I think I'll still pick up three UV filters before my next SCUBA diving trip in September so I can reduce the chance of sand and ocean spray on the front glass. And will again go with the multi coated Hoya or B+W. I don't think I'll need the "thin" 67mm filters for the Tamron 17-50mm and Sigma 50-150mm, but will go "thin" for the 77mm filter on the 10-20mm Canon.

The GND decision I'm going to push off a while. Need to do some more research on that one and will look into the rectangular Cokin and Singh Ray. Anyway I've got my hands full learning the camera and lenses which I've had less than two months. No need to complicate my learning curve too much with filters until I have a better feel for how the glass performs without them.

Thanks again, really appreciate the input!

/Roger

[JohnJ80]

You will not need the thin filters for any of the 17mm or larger lenses. The thin filters, IIRC, do not allow you to put a lens cap on them (no threads to engage the lens cap).

J

[Jon]

Some thin filters do, others don't, allow you to mount Canon's cap on the front. Those that don't come with a slip-on lens cap.

[Lester Wareham]

Some thin filters do, others don't, allow you to mount Canon's cap on the front. Those that don't come with a slip-on lens cap.

That is a nice thing about the Hoya SHMC Pro 1 filters, top end multicoating, thin glass and mount with front threads. I only use these.

To the OP: Don't use a stepper ring for the reasons mentioned above, vignetting and increasing the distance between the front element and the filter can aggravate ghosting.

I use a EF-S 10-22 with the above Hoya filter with very good results, no vignetting and almost no additional flare or ghosting even with a very strong light source in the frame.

[johnms88]

See, this is the reason that I look at filter size when i buy a lens. Sometimes the deciding factor, if im stuck between lenses, is the filter size. Getting a lens cause its cheaper isnt always the right decision, because if its the same filter size as other lenses in your arsenal, it will save you hundreds on accessories (filters). Both my 70-200 and 24-70 are 77's so I can use the filters on both. Makes things a lot easier.

[vtran123456]

I am thinking of buying B+W UV 010 MRC filters from www.maxsaver.net but I'm not sure if these filters are fake from China. Anybody bought and verified filters from this site?

[foxbat]

I am thinking of buying B+W UV 010 MRC filters from www.maxsaver.net (http://www.maxsaver.net) but I'm not sure if these filters are fake from China. Anybody bought and verified filters from this site?
I've had virtually all my filters (Hoya Pro1 & B+W KSM, UV & CPL) from them. They are not copies. Lots of other very picky people on other forums agree. I set up a test using one of my Zeiss lenses that renders an ungodly level of detail with a Hoya Pro1 UV filter on and off and could not tell any difference at the pixel level.

[r.morales]

I have ordered [ last week but haven't recieved yet ] . read this
http://www.resellerratings.com/store/Maxsaver
you can check a lot of web companies here -
http://www.resellerratings.com/rlist-s1-n2.html

[Jon]

I am thinking of buying B+W UV 010 MRC filters from www.maxsaver.net (http://www.maxsaver.net) but I'm not sure if these filters are fake from China. Anybody bought and verified filters from this site?Doc Klepper recommended them (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showpost.php?p=3203610&postcount=7) in an earlier post here.

[vtran123456]

Thank you. I will go ahead and buy filters from them.

[RogerrDalTx]

Just wanted to post a follow-up and say thanks again for the filter advice.

Last month based on recommendations here I ordered my filters from www.hvStar.com (MaxSaver, BestEastern, hkDirect, hvPhoto). The overseas buying always makes me a bit nervous about getting scammed or getting fake / counterfeit goods. But these guys were great, good prices and shipping (while a little high) was fast. The filters were at my door in a week and I think very, very good prices. The Hoya Pro stuff worked out great, I feel better about having my lenses protected and can't see any drop in IQ.

I started with the filters below and just ordered a CP for my 10-22. Will revisit the ND and GND thing in a month or so.

Hoya 67mm PRO1 Super HMC Circular Polarizing Filter (Qty: 1 x $64.50)
Hoya PRO1 D Digital 67mm UV(0) Filter DMC THIN (Qty: 2 x $26.50)
Hoya 77mm UV(0) PRO1 Super HMC Multi-Coated Haze Filter(Qty: 1 x $31.90)

Thanks again guys!!
/Roger