Flash Bracket

[togoble]

I am looking to purchase a flash bracket for my 10D and 550ex flash. I am also considering an external battery pack. Do you have any suggestions?

[CoolToolGuy]

I have the Quantum Battery 1/Compact for my flash. It fits onto the tripod socket, so it makes a single unit, and it works as advertised. However, I don't use the flash much, so it just sits. Look here: http://www.qtm.com

Digital Camera Battery has a whole line of high-power batteries that can power two devices (of different voltages, I believe) at the same time. Check here: http://www.digitalcamerabattery.com/

I don't know if Quantum has a similar response, but if I was doing it over again, I might have gotten the D C B.

Hope this helps.

[robertwgross]

The two brands of flash bracket that I know are Stroboframe and Stratos. There are several other brands as well. For shooting weddings, my partner and I have one of each.

Whichever one you decide on, get one that has a flip-over capability. This is important when you change from shooting landscape format to portrait format.

---Bob Gross---

[Saturn]

Hello:

For a battery pack for the 550, I use the Canon CEP2. It holds 6 rechargeable nimh AA batteries. Having 4 nimh batteries in the 550, and 6 in the pack, it will recycle to full power in just under 1 second. If I shoot a commercial job, I never have to change out batteries. In the remote chance I shoot a wedding, I can use one set of 10 batteries for the entire affair, shooting @ 100asa, many flashes on full power. It's light weight, thin (will fit in a shirt pocket) and fairly reasonable at about $130, excluding batteries. (I'm going on two years on my set of 10 nimh rechargeable AA's, with heavy use. That's economy!)

For a flip strobe-bracket, I use the StroboFrame Press-T. It's compact. You can adjust the height of the post and it's quickly flipable. The post is on the camera's right. You hold the body when shooting, not the bracket. The bracket is nothing more than a support for your flash. Just make sure you get the anti-twist plate for it, or the body will want to rotate on the base of the bracket. This is especially important when shooting verticals with a heavy lens, and mounted on a tripod. Without the plate, the camera will rotate down even if tightened severly.

Thanks.

Saturn

[Rob Larsen]

Does anyone have experience with the Stroboframe "Camera Flip" model? Having the camera flip rather than the flash flip is appealing for use with Lumiquest reflector.

Also, will that model fit a Mark II? The literature says it's not compatible with "large add-on accessory motor drives." Having no experience with "large add-on accessory drives," I'm not sure how the Mark II form factor compares to that description.

[robertwgross]

The literature says it's not compatible with "large add-on accessory motor drives." Having no experience with "large add-on accessory drives," I'm not sure how the Mark II form factor compares to that description.

I keep meaning to pick up a motor drive for my D60. For some reason, I can't seem to find them. :D

---Bob Gross---

[DaveG]

Does anyone have experience with the Stroboframe "Camera Flip" model? Having the camera flip rather than the flash flip is appealing for use with Lumiquest reflector.

Also, will that model fit a Mark II? The literature says it's not compatible with "large add-on accessory motor drives." Having no experience with "large add-on accessory drives," I'm not sure how the Mark II form factor compares to that description.

The Stroboframe Pro-T will put the flash over the lens (in a vertical shooting position) when you use a 10D and the BG-ED3 vertical grip. The smaller Press-T won't. I don't know if the Pro-T is tall enough to use on the Mark II, but if it doesn't then I would expect Stroboframe to introduce one ASAP! The only obstacle is the height of the arm, and an extra three cm would do the trick! I guess that we'll see.

[Saturn]

We use a D60 with the battery grip and it works fine with the Press-T. :shock: The only drawback is that if you need to swap batteries, you need to unscrew the grip.

Saturn

[DaveG]

We use a D60 with the battery grip and it works fine with the Press-T. :shock: The only drawback is that if you need to swap batteries, you need to unscrew the grip.

Saturn

I made the assumption that we were talking about using a Canon 550EX flash. A flash like a Metz can be positoned with a lot more control and the use of a specific bracket is not important. So with the 550 in mind:

The vertical slide is shorter on the Press-T than on the Pro-T. When you flip the flash into a vertical shooting position how does the flash maintain its position directly over the lens? If it DOES go directly over the lens I suspect that you've had a PRO-T bracket all along. If it doesn't go over the lens then what's the point of the bracket in the first place?

[robertwgross]

If it doesn't go over the lens then what's the point of the bracket in the first place?

(1) To give the photographer one hand grip that supports both flash and camera body.
(2) To move the flash farther off-axis from the lens.

---Bob Gross---

[Rob Larsen]

The Stroboframe Pro-T will put the flash over the lens (in a vertical shooting position) when you use a 10D and the BG-ED3 vertical grip. The smaller Press-T won't. I don't know if the Pro-T is tall enough to use on the Mark II, but if it doesn't then I would expect Stroboframe to introduce one ASAP! The only obstacle is the height of the arm, and an extra three cm would do the trick! I guess that we'll see.

I am interested in diffusing the flash using the Lumiquest system (http://www.lumiquest.com/lq931.htm). Considering the extra height added by the Lumiquest hood on an extended flash head, it appears that a "camera flip" model would be preferred over the Pro-T and Press-T "flash flip" models. This diagram (http://www.tiffen.com/Stroboframe%20web%20catalog.htm) illustrates my concerns about being able to keep such a tall flash stack centered above my lens. Therefore, I was considering the Camera Flip model, but it is not clear if the Mark II (or BG-ED3 equipped model) will fit inside it.

Another diffusing option that would be more compatible with the "flash flip" is the Sto-Fen Omni-Bounce. Does anyone have experience with that unit versus the Lumiquest Pro Max? (please excuse the topic tangent)


I keep meaning to pick up a motor drive for my D60. For some reason, I can't seem to find them. :D
---Bob Gross---

So, do you think the Mark II can get better than 8.5 fps with a motor drive? Will this cut down on the total sequential frames possible?

Bob, you're killing me! Thanks for the smile! :D

[DaveG]

Another diffusing option that would be more compatible with the "flash flip" is the Sto-Fen Omni-Bounce. Does anyone have experience with that unit versus the Lumiquest Pro Max? (please excuse the topic tangent)

[/quote]

I use the Stofen with a 10D, 550EX and Stroboframe Pro-T. The advantage over the Lumiquest is that I can use the Stofen, flip the flash into a vertical and then rotate the 550's head up. The flash head and Stofen stay above the lens. Now this is the narrow part of the Stofen - or flash head for that matter, but you don't need as broad a left to right coverage when you shoot vertically. With the Lumiquest you will have to go to a camera rotating bracket.

My problem with the camera rotating brackets is their weight. They are much heavier than the flash flip type and this can be a problem after a long day.

In any case I don't think that the Lumiquest will give you anything more than what a fill card will.

Get some self adhesive Velcro and put some (soft side) onto the sides and back of your flash. Then see if you can find some corregated white plastic "cardboard". An election sign works fine, by the way. Then you can cut rectangular shapes out of the board, and stick the hard side of the Velcro onto the card. Now you can aim your flash into a bounce position and the card on the back will work just as well as the Lumiquest at 5% of the cost. When you want to shoot a vertical, just reposition the card onto the side Velcro. That way you can still use a camera flip bracket.

The advantage of these types of cards is that you can make really big ones. The corregated cardboard is light, but stiff, so they won't flop around. If you are looking to make a softer light with you flash you MUST make the light source bigger. Just diffusion makes the light less powerful NOT softer. Only size or having the point source close to the subject will do the trick.

The other reason is that you WILL lose these things (Lumiquest included) but since they keep insisting on having elections your source for these cards is pretty much infinite! :D

[theoldmoose]

If it doesn't go over the lens then what's the point of the bracket in the first place?

(1) To give the photographer one hand grip that supports both flash and camera body.
(2) To move the flash farther off-axis from the lens.

---Bob Gross---

Yeah, but...

In vertical format, if the flash is not centered over the lens, you get the dreaded 'funny shadow on the wall behind and to the right of the subject' problem. :lol:

That's what *I* want a flash bracket for in the first place. Otherwise, I can just twist the 550EX into a semi-bounce position, or use a softbox. Either one can still cast a noticeable shadow, though, to the right of the person.

The key is to center the flash over the lens, in either portrait or landscape mode.

[DaveG]

If it doesn't go over the lens then what's the point of the bracket in the first place?

(1) To give the photographer one hand grip that supports both flash and camera body.
(2) To move the flash farther off-axis from the lens.

---Bob Gross---

(1) So does the hot shoe.
(2) Why? You won't get red eye in the hot shoe.

Side shadow is unforgivable for a pro, and the the only reason that I use a bracket is to prevent side shadow.

[theoldmoose]

I tried the Camera Flip, but found that the articulation didn't work if you had a battery grip on the camera. When flipped, the camera shifted to the left, and left the flash uncentered.

The Press-T was too short to accomodate a grip, and the Pro-T seemed to long for me to fit easily (even collapsed) in my bag. Plus, you still had to wangle with changing the flash all around when you flipped the flash, because the flash ended flopped over sideways.

What I settled on was the VH2000. This is also made by StroboFrame, and it uses an articulated arm to flip the flash, such that the flash stays upright. Suddenly, you don't have to mess with moving and swiveling your flash bounce head every time you flip the flash. You do have to flop the camera over on your tripod, though. So, you have to decide which is more annoying. Since I take most of my shots handheld, I figured I'd go with the better flash setup.

For extra credit, the VH2000 comes with the 35mm anti-twist plate, that works with the body without the grip. You can get the grip plate for a few bucks extra.

And for extra, extra credit (at least in my book), it doesn't force you into buying into StroboFrames pricey QR plate system to mount the silly thing onto your tripod. Instead, it has an offset angle bracket that uses (and exposes) the regular tripod screw mount, so you can put your own tripod's QR plate on there, if you wish. Just be sure you check the clearance for the QR release on your tripod head, though. Depending on the QR release design, some heads won't work with this bracket.

Plus, it collapses small enough for me to tuck it into my camera bag. Maybe not the smallest, lightest thing on the market, but it sure rung my bell. Note that I ended up going to a local camera shop to trial-fit *everything* (including my tripod, *and* my large diameter zoom lenses) to make sure it was really going to work, before purchasing.

And yes, I bought the stuff from the local shop (Huron Camera, in Dexter, MI), even though it cost a bit more, to thank them for having it there to try out, and the time and energy the staff expended in helping me while I was there.

[Scottes]

Another diffusing option that would be more compatible with the "flash flip" is the Sto-Fen Omni-Bounce. Does anyone have experience with that unit versus the Lumiquest Pro Max? (please excuse the topic tangent)

I've got the Sto-Fen, Lumiquest Pocket Bounce, and Lumiquest Ultrasoft.

The Sto-Fen is very good at lowering the light output. But since it's not really any larger than the flash itself it really doesn't do any softening. It's mildly OK when 45-bouncing as some light goes forward with a little getting bounced. I never use it any more, but it's small so I take it.

The Lumiquest Pocket Bounce makes the light area much larger so it does quite a bit more softening. It's still not a softbox, but it helps a lot. I like this a lot.

The Lumiquest Ultrasoft is basically a Pocket Bounce with a diffusing panel. More light loss because of this, but it may help with those serious hotspots. I use it for macro and butterflies where it's fantastic - I'm not sure that it would be much better than a Pocket Bounce for people shots.

[Mike H]

Does anyone have experience with the Stroboframe "Camera Flip" model? Having the camera flip rather than the flash flip is appealing for use with Lumiquest reflector.

Also, will that model fit a Mark II? The literature says it's not compatible with "large add-on accessory motor drives." Having no experience with "large add-on accessory drives," I'm not sure how the Mark II form factor compares to that description.

I used the Camera Flip for years with the A2, Elan II, D30, D60, and 10D. It's great with all of those, though you can't use the BG-ED3 with it (since it won't fit).

Regarding the Camera Flip and the Mark II, I just tried it for you--no way! :cry:

I hate to add another item to the things that I've had to buy for the Mark II. Does that thing ever stop eating your bank account? :cry:

Mike H

[roppelt]

I use the photo flip with my 10D, big-ed and 380ex so far no problems BUT I am not sure of the size difference between the 10D big-ed combe and the markII

[Mike H]

I use the photo flip with my 10D, big-ed and 380ex so far no problems BUT I am not sure of the size difference between the 10D big-ed combe and the markII

I just measured it, and it looks like about 7mm. There may be a little "play" in that number. Unfortunately, I've just gotten to that age where you have to move far away enough to focus on things, and then discover that you can't read them that far away! Now I understand when I see the old folks pulling something close, and then moving it away, and then pulling back close again ... :roll:

Mike H

[Mike H]

What I settled on was the VH2000. This is also made by StroboFrame, and it uses an articulated arm to flip the flash, such that the flash stays upright. Suddenly, you don't have to mess with moving and swiveling your flash bounce head every time you flip the flash. You do have to flop the camera over on your tripod, though. So, you have to decide which is more annoying. Since I take most of my shots handheld, I figured I'd go with the better flash setup.


Does the VH2000 work with the Mark II? I couldn't tell from your post which camera you're using it with. Thanks.

Mike H

[robertwgross]

In vertical format, if the flash is not centered over the lens, you get the dreaded 'funny shadow on the wall behind and to the right of the subject' problem. :lol:


"If" the flash is not centered...

Well, it works best if you center the flash over the lens. That is why my flash bracket has all sorts of screws and adjustments so that I can move the camera body, or move the flash. It took me about one year of use to figure out all of the adjustments and why they must be used to avoid the funny shadow.

---Bob Gross---

[theoldmoose]

What I settled on was the VH2000. This is also made by StroboFrame, and it uses an articulated arm to flip the flash, such that the flash stays upright. Suddenly, you don't have to mess with moving and swiveling your flash bounce head every time you flip the flash. You do have to flop the camera over on your tripod, though. So, you have to decide which is more annoying. Since I take most of my shots handheld, I figured I'd go with the better flash setup.


Does the VH2000 work with the Mark II? I couldn't tell from your post which camera you're using it with. Thanks.

Mike H

I'm using it with the 300D and grip. I don't know if the Mark II fits. You will need to find one someplace, and try, or trust that someone else can tell you.

[theoldmoose]

In vertical format, if the flash is not centered over the lens, you get the dreaded 'funny shadow on the wall behind and to the right of the subject' problem. :lol:


"If" the flash is not centered...

Well, it works best if you center the flash over the lens. That is why my flash bracket has all sorts of screws and adjustments so that I can move the camera body, or move the flash. It took me about one year of use to figure out all of the adjustments and why they must be used to avoid the funny shadow.

---Bob Gross---

That's the point. The camera flips don't work for me, if you have a grip. Not only do some of them not fit (not enough clearance), but when you rotate the camera left in the typical camera flip, it moves the camera towards the left (when viewed from the back), leaving it uncentered under the flash.

Now, the Stroboframe camera flip (IIRC) has a bar that you can slide the flash back and forth along, so if you use the QR flash mount (which also makes it easy to grab the flash and handhold it), you can conceiveably slide the flash back and forth, depending on where the camera ends up. That just annoys me, but it might be OK for some folks.

Like I said, I traded having to flip a tripod head back and forth for not having to adjust anything about my flash head. Since I take more flash shots handheld than on a tripod, I judged that a reasonable tradeoff. Others might decided differently.

There really is no substitute for going to a shop with your bag of stuff, and actually trying out virtually everything (w/wo grip, all your lenses, including your tripod/head combinations) to see how everything works/fits. The system must be smooth enough to become second-nature to you, IMO.

[robertwgross]

That's the point. The camera flips don't work for me, if you have a grip.


Can you clarify what you mean? What is the point, something that I stated?

Nor is it clear what you mean that the camera flip doesn't work for you if I have a grip.

---Bob Gross---

[theoldmoose]

Camera flips (especially the Stroboframe one I was trying out) assume that the lens to camera left side distance is identical to the lens to camera bottom distance.

That way, when you flip the camera counter-clockwise (as viewed from the rear) the lens stays centered under the flash, which doesn't move during this operation.

If you have a battery grip on the camera, this geometry is upset. Even though the lens is centered under the flash (given that there is even enough clearance now with the increased height of the camera/grip combination) in the landscape position, when you rotate the camera counterclockwise to portrait position, the lens shifts towards the left (as viewed from the rear of the camera), because of the extra thickness imposed by the battery grip, which now appears on the right side (as viewed from the rear of the camera), rather than on the bottom.

The 'point' I was agreeing with was '"If" the flash is not centered...". On all the camera flips I looked at, none of them left the flash centered in the portrait position, if I had a battery grip on the bottom of the camera.

To me, that is unacceptable. The main reason I want a flash bracket is to specifically leave the flash centered in both the landscape and portrait camera positions.

I also find most 'flash flip' style brackets to be annoying, as well, because they allow the flash to 'fall over' sideways when going from landscape to portrait, which messes up all my bounce swivel/tilt settings on my flash.

That is why I choose the VH2000, since it suffers from neither the 'camera flip' ills nor the 'fall-over' flip flash syndrome.