View Full Version : Sports Photographers post your best tips
weka2000
31st of May 2007 (Thu), 15:58
Im very new to sports photography. I thought sports photographers could give their best tips simalar to the thread.
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=198005
Advice and pointers and common pitfalls to watch out for.
KIPAX
31st of May 2007 (Thu), 16:06
Tip #1 Read the sport shooter tutorial and advice at the top of this forum. It's all in there :)
weka2000
31st of May 2007 (Thu), 16:15
Shame half the photo examples have gone :(
KIPAX
31st of May 2007 (Thu), 16:17
I think a lot of UK league soccer photographs have been pulled due to licence clampdown. Unfortunatly for us.. we take the photograph but we dont get to decide what to do with them... Thats the league rules for you..
Tall_Paul_2000
31st of May 2007 (Thu), 16:39
In fact I'm tempted to say that as my first tip...."don't put Football League images on here" :lol:
Seriously, the best tip I can think of is Background! Always always look at what you're going to see in the background of your images - you can ruin an otherwise great image by having a cluttered, busy background.
I'm sure there are many more.....I'll have a think!
gazcoyle
31st of May 2007 (Thu), 16:55
My top tip is know and understand the game youre covering that way you will be be able to predict the action and not have to rely on the machine gun approach.
Tall Pauls advice is good but if shooting at a lower level it isnt always possible to get good backgrounds.
Big Hands
31st of May 2007 (Thu), 17:14
f/2.8 lenses rock! Shoot wide open if at all apossible.
AI Servo
Centerpoint focus
shutter speed >1/500sec.
eyes
face
ball
opposition
peak action
out-of-focus, non-nuclear backgrounds
level and plumbed
tight crops (generally, but not always...)
Shoot from a low perspective
If it doesn't add to the shot, it likely takes away from it
Usually, if the eyes are not in focus, you need a pretty compelling reason to keep the shot
Generally speaking, the less you have to explain about the shot, the better it has been composed. This is where backgrounds (even though they may not be sharply focused) can really add to a shot.
Here's an example: This is just an average action shot (if that) but what makes it special to the family of the player? The gentleman on the right (smiling in the background) is her father/coach.
http://photos.imageevent.com/johansen01/tournamentsoccer2007/showdown2007/Showdown%2007%20091a.jpg
Elements such as a scoreboard or event banner can also add to the composition.
Don't forget to get some celebration shots after a "score", injury, end of time or other such reaction shots.
Next........
Mbrescio
31st of May 2007 (Thu), 17:32
Get as many pictures as possible during the teams warmups. This ensures you get everyone on the team.
fslshooter
31st of May 2007 (Thu), 17:47
Get paid for your work.
bigjon0107
31st of May 2007 (Thu), 21:33
Get paid for your work.
HAHA, if that happens 1/2 of the new threads on here would be gone! :lol:
oh, and what Big Hands said
-Jon
jasestu
1st of June 2007 (Fri), 00:44
Get out there and do it, you need to develop an instinct for whatever it is you're shooting so you can anticipate the moment.
What are you shooting for? Targeting a specific player, the whole team, or just getting some actions shots?
HoRnYTuRbO
1st of June 2007 (Fri), 14:42
go to the bathroom before the game starts =)
aussieskier
1st of June 2007 (Fri), 14:43
Get paid for your work.
:lol::lol:
Or use it in other way to benefit yourself. I use it for brownie points with the girlfriend :lol::lol: (and I am not ashamed to admit it). Well, I do like the game too :)
marco.togni
1st of June 2007 (Fri), 17:19
go to the bathroom before the game starts =)
This is the best advice, trust me.
And eat something before the game start. If you take photos when you are hungry you will take bad photos.
PhotosGuy
2nd of June 2007 (Sat), 09:45
Many good links are in here:
Advice needed for Rally shooting (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=292705)
mdtoney
25th of April 2008 (Fri), 14:39
I have a question about shooting motorsports - specifically actions shots of motocross and supercross. I'm brand new to photography and just purchased the Rebex XTi with the kit lens. I'm going to the Seattle supercross tomorrow (night races under stadium lights, shooting from the seats) and the Glen Helen motocross next month (outdoor, bright sunshine, shooting trackside). I'll use Big Hands' recommendations above as a starting point and make adjustments during the event.
I won't have time (or $$) to get a new lens for the SX tomorrow, but which lens(es) would you recommend for getting the best shot at these events, and more importantly, one lens I could buy in time for the outdoor MX races next month.
Three lenses that were recommended to me to cover most shooting needs have been:
17-55 f/2.8 IS
70-200 f/4?? (would f2.8 or IS be needed if I'm using a tripod outdoors?)
50 f/1.4
I don't have $$ thousand$$ laying around so lens purchases will need to be spread out over many many months. I'd like to shoot SX & MX, and also take it with while hiking, camping, going to car shows, etc. and would like to have one decent lens that would cover most situations for now.
Thanks for your help.
Mike
Kiddo
25th of April 2008 (Fri), 15:08
My advice....
Now this would work great for "field" sports stuff!! Dont' try it on the race track.. LOL!!
Don't just stand up and shoot.... Lay on the field (out of harms away)!! I did this while shooting photos of a Mosquito Football game and got some pretty cool pictures!!
But on the track, see if you can get into the back of the pase/lap truck? I do that all the time here and get some great pictures of the cars coming across the start line!! But if you're gonna do that, make sure you stand or sit next to the back of the truck.... I've seen another photographer do a face plant into the track one day and almost get run over! They had to restart the race....
S.Horton
25th of April 2008 (Fri), 15:25
Keep your shutter speed high.
;}
Canonswhitelensesrule
25th of April 2008 (Fri), 16:02
Don't forget to also shoot the "off field/track etc" moments. The "quieter/lighter" side of sports. Where the athlete is "alone" and thinking about the upcoming event, or the error that cost his team the game, the fumble that lost the game, the jubilation of scoring the winning goal, etc. The anxious/nervous/proud girlfriend/wife (or both). The agonizing look of pain as the trainer tapes up a broken finger etc.
The cheerleaders, the fans (esp those dressed in peculiar outfits), the officials etc.
Remember that sports isn't just about the action on the field. It's the entire event.
mdtoney
25th of April 2008 (Fri), 16:10
Since I haven't purchased any extra lenses yet, are there any particular lenses you would recommend for this type of shooting?
Thanks!
Canonswhitelensesrule
25th of April 2008 (Fri), 16:36
As far as extra lenses go, the longer, or more "reach" you have the better. Esp if you want to isolate an athlete from the crowd, or if you want to capture a nice candid, but don't want to be right in the athlete's face. That is another very good reason why pro photographers shoot with the fast "L" glass. They can not only capture action from a long way away, but they can also isolate an athlete from a distance and allow him/her to keep their "privacy" or moments to themselves. It also provides great bokeh to make the athlete "stand out" from the background.
Remember also that the "faster" the lens, the brighter the viewfinder, which makes composing photos easier. It also allows the use of faster shutter speeds to stop the action. Of course the cost is the big trade off.
One more suggestion. Don't be afraid to use different angles of view...lay on the ground and shoot "UP" at runners going by. Use a wide angle lens to capture the playing field/crowd etc all in one image. Use slow shutter speeds and either pan with the action to convey a feeling of "movement" or even keep the camera still and allow the motion of the athletes to create a "painting like" image of colourful blurs while using a slow shutter speed. Esp when using a wide angle lens.
PhotosGuy
25th of April 2008 (Fri), 19:14
...but which lens(es) would you recommend for getting the best shot at these events, and more importantly, one lens I could buy in time for the outdoor MX races next month.
Three lenses that were recommended to me to cover most shooting needs have been:
17-55 f/2.8 IS
70-200 f/4?? (would f2.8 or IS be needed if I'm using a tripod outdoors?)
50 f/1.4 For your budget to shoot racing in daylight, the 70-200 f/4 is a GREAT lens & you can get a used one here for about $500. You can think about a 1.4 TC, too.
The 70-200 f/2.8 is good too at double the price. I didn't get the IS at triple the price as most things I shoot are moving & I like to pan.
For your night events, the 85mm f/1.8 is a good buy.
DDCSD
25th of April 2008 (Fri), 19:36
I have a question about shooting motorsports - specifically actions shots of motocross and supercross. I'm brand new to photography and just purchased the Rebex XTi with the kit lens. I'm going to the Seattle supercross tomorrow (night races under stadium lights, shooting from the seats) and the Glen Helen motocross next month (outdoor, bright sunshine, shooting trackside). I'll use Big Hands' recommendations above as a starting point and make adjustments during the event.
I won't have time (or $$) to get a new lens for the SX tomorrow, but which lens(es) would you recommend for getting the best shot at these events, and more importantly, one lens I could buy in time for the outdoor MX races next month.
Three lenses that were recommended to me to cover most shooting needs have been:
17-55 f/2.8 IS
70-200 f/4?? (would f2.8 or IS be needed if I'm using a tripod outdoors?)
50 f/1.4
I don't have $$ thousand$$ laying around so lens purchases will need to be spread out over many many months. I'd like to shoot SX & MX, and also take it with while hiking, camping, going to car shows, etc. and would like to have one decent lens that would cover most situations for now.
Thanks for your help.
Mike
For your budget to shoot racing in daylight, the 70-200 f/4 is a GREAT lens & you can get a used one here for about $500. You can think about a 1.4 TC, too.
The 70-200 f/2.8 is good too at double the price. I didn't get the IS at triple the price as most things I shoot are moving & I like to pan.
For your night events, the 85mm f/1.8 is a good buy.
Frank has some great advise on lenses.
Also, don't just wait and wait until you have the money for the expensive lenses. Buy more affordable lenses at first so you can SHOOT SHOOT SHOOT.
You will get better by using lower end lenses and shooting than you will by just waiting until you can afford the best lenses. Its better to take a few thousand photos with lesser lenses than to take no photos for months until you can afford a better lens.
Mike R
25th of April 2008 (Fri), 20:25
Always know where the ball is and where its headed, It will hep you not get hit. along with better shots.
Alwasy ask the coaches and officials BEFORE using a flash.
Ty G
25th of April 2008 (Fri), 21:01
Don't rely on multiple focus pts. put it on center focus and learn to keep your "subject" centered. Learn when the climax of the action is and shoot right before you expect something to happen. Don't fall into the frames per second habit. Shoot for THE shot.
PhotosGuy
25th of April 2008 (Fri), 21:15
Don't rely on multiple focus pts. put it on center focus and learn to keep your "subject" centered. Good, but I'd suggest C.Fn 04-2 instead, along with C.Fn -13 to put point selection on the joystick. Look in your manual under Custom Functions.
AF Point selection for sports (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=112654)
Ty G
25th of April 2008 (Fri), 21:57
Frank, I do use C.Fn-13 on my main dial. As far as C.Fn 4-2. This doesn't work in AI Servo (which I use, I am of the opinion it is faster than AI Focus). For it to work in AI Servo the * button needs to be pressed to interrupt AI Servo refocusing. Frank, I'm not writing this to be negative; if there is a better way, I need to know as well. So, do you shoot your sports using AI Focus? Or, am I just wrong.
PhotosGuy
25th of April 2008 (Fri), 22:22
This doesn't work in AI Servo No problem, & sorry for the confusion it might have caused. I recommended C.Fn 4-2 because a lot of sport shooters like it & missed the AI Servo problem because I don't use the * button.
I do use C.Fn-13 all the time & it's a great feature. I am of the opinion it is faster than AI Focus) I've never had a lot of luck with AI Focus.
T2000
25th of April 2008 (Fri), 23:11
Concentrate.
www.proTennisPhotos.com
PhotosGuy
26th of April 2008 (Sat), 07:39
Concentrate. :D I let AI Servo do that for me!
S.Horton
26th of April 2008 (Sat), 08:53
Concentrate.
www.proTennisPhotos.com (http://www.proTennisPhotos.com)
Holy smokes here's a real sleeper POTN member.
Stunningly good work on that website.
I like your tip as well. Distraction leads to lousy results.
T2000
26th of April 2008 (Sat), 19:20
Thank you for the kind words.
BiPolarBear
26th of April 2008 (Sat), 22:20
Holy smokes here's a real sleeper POTN member.
Stunningly good work on that website.
Ditto. Lovely tennis gallery T2000.
I thought your member name was some type of Terminator reference, but it now makes sense. Jimmy Connors would be proud.
Greg
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