Pocket Wizards Remorse

[imationx]

Well, I purchased 3 Pocket Wizards to use with my Canon 580ex & 430 ex flashes. I have light stands and all... I was hoping to try to create some dramatic lighting for my on-location model shoots. I had a shoot yesterday and tried to use them but got so frustrated I resorted to using on camera fill-flash. It seemed like there was so much to do and testing that it was wasting valueable time - being it was the first time using that setup. I had both lights on a stand...one flash pointing at model on each side.. I was trying to do "cross lighting".. I am beggining to think that all this lighting stuff is a lot of work for on-location work. Please advise.. I really don't wanna sell it all!

:confused:

[zed]

What are the specific problems you were having. PW are as easy to use as it gets. Were you using a light meter to assist in your set up?

Jeff

[imationx]

What are the specific problems you were having. PW are as easy to use as it gets. Were you using a light meter to assist in your set up?

Jeff


Well, here is one photo that i tried to use the PWs and my flashes . I do have a light meter but don't know how to use it well.. it just seems like using a light meter also would take up a lot of time when models lose patience. What would you suggest are far as placement of lights..

http://imationxphotography.com/photos/162764587-L.jpg

[BLS439]

PW's are super easy to use. It sounds to me your problem is actually in setup and light metering the subject/scene rather than using PW's.

What light meter do you have and does it have the PW chip? I use the L358 w/PW chip. I have ISO #1 set to 100 and generally between 1/60-1/125 for portrait stuff. Or you can set the F-stop to your desired (for me between 2.8-8 depending on the setting). And the meter will give you a range of what it thinks is right for lighting. I can tell you, unless it's really tricky at your location, the meter is pretty darn accurate.

I think your shot looks good. I'm guessing an overcast day rather than a blown sky. As far as lighting setup...it all depends on the shot you want to create and how creative you want to get.

[Curtis N]

That's the problem with reading the Strobist blog.

David Hobby explains stuff and makes it sound easy. Sure, it's easy for him. He's been doing it for 20 years. He can set up his lights and guess at how much power he needs for his chosen aperture, and be within a stop either way most of the time. Then he just needs a few quick adjustments that don't take long, and he's ready to shoot. But if you're just trying out these techniques there is a lot more trial and error involved.

Certainly it will get easier with practice. The more practice you can get, without a bunch of people standing around on the clock, the faster you will learn.

[FlashZebra]

Two suggestions.


Never try out new gear or a dramatically new way to do things in an actual session.

Iron all that out before the session by testing and practicing your setup.

There will always be tons of details to deal with at any session, overlaying that reality onto dealing with things you have never used or techniques you have never tried is the reason for your problems, not pocket wizards (or anything else in your camera bag).

Learn to use your meter.
Learn to use the pocket wizards.
Learn how to integrate all this knowledge into the way that you work.
Then schedule a session.

Enjoy! Lon

[imationx]

That's the problem with reading the Strobist blog.

David Hobby explains stuff and makes it sound easy. Sure, it's easy for him. He's been doing it for 20 years. He can set up his lights and guess at how much power he needs for his chosen aperture, and be within a stop either way most of the time. Then he just needs a few quick adjustments that don't take long, and he's ready to shoot. But if you're just trying out these techniques there is a lot more trial and error involved.

Certainly it will get easier with practice. The more practice you can get, without a bunch of people standing around on the clock, the faster you will learn.

You are exactly right. The reason I starting investing in PW's and getting more intrested in lighting was beacuse of the strobist site. I read one article where he says he doesn't use a light meter and doesn't see much use for it as it is so easy to judge by eye... It is pretty difficult for me being i'm new. I have th Seknoic 358 light meter and I thought about getting the wireless attachment for PWs. I have fully understood how to use the light meter quicly on a model shoot.. that is what I avoid it - and that everyone says they dont use one with the LCD on back of screen now.

[zed]

Well, here is one photo that i tried to use the PWs and my flashes . I do have a light meter but don't know how to use it well.. it just seems like using a light meter also would take up a lot of time when models lose patience. What would you suggest are far as placement of lights..




You got a light meter to use it...so use it. Yes, it is overwhelming, learning to use it and especially when you are still learning basic lighting. But once you get the basics of your lightmeter, it will make your set up easier than shooting test shots and making adjustments. If you use your light meter properly, your first shot should have correct exposure compared to not using the meter and shooting, chimping, adjusting, shooting, chimping, adjusting......
I would get the PW transmitter for your meter, otherwise you will have to use a cable to fire the flashes.
Placement of lights would depend on the type of look you want from your shots.

Jeff

[unferth]

^^ what he said...

Definately get the PW transmitter for the l358... you just hold the meter where the model or whatever will be and hit the measure button.. it's AWESOME :)

[scottbergerphoto]

Two suggestions.


Never try out new gear or a dramatically new way to do things in an actual session.

Iron all that out before the session by testing and practicing your setup.

There will always be tons of details to deal with at any session, overlaying that reality onto dealing with things you have never used or techniques you have never tried is the reason for your problems, not pocket wizards (or anything else in your camera bag).

Learn to use your meter.
Learn to use the pocket wizards.
Learn how to integrate all this knowledge into the way that you work.
Then schedule a session.

Enjoy! Lon

Exactly!

[imationx]

You got a light meter to use it...so use it. Yes, it is overwhelming, learning to use it and especially when you are still learning basic lighting. But once you get the basics of your lightmeter, it will make your set up easier than shooting test shots and making adjustments. If you use your light meter properly, your first shot should have correct exposure compared to not using the meter and shooting, chimping, adjusting, shooting, chimping, adjusting......
I would get the PW transmitter for your meter, otherwise you will have to use a cable to fire the flashes.
Placement of lights would depend on the type of look you want from your shots.

Jeff


That is very good advice. I should not have attempted by new lighting on a shoot but oh well learn for next time. the light meter has something like an AV mode? So I wireleslly pop the flashes and it will tell me what power to set strobes? What if I want to shoot at lens apperature f/4 the whole time?

[tsaraleksi]

What exactly were you trying to do with your lights that was going wrong? (Incidentally I used PWs for the first time yesterday and found it quite simple, but I had a bit of help). I personally have found using speedlites in this manner enourmously frustrating, but obviously that's not true for everyone.

[imationx]

What exactly were you trying to do with your lights that was going wrong? (Incidentally I used PWs for the first time yesterday and found it quite simple, but I had a bit of help). I personally have found using speedlites in this manner enourmously frustrating, but obviously that's not true for everyone.

Well, one problem I have is using my light meter - or lack of using it. I don't feel comfortable using it but I guess it takes practice. Other than that - placement of the strobes on the stands in relation to the subject... All this cross lighting, side lighting how do I know where to put them for dramatic lighting? I understand it depends on what i'm looking for but on a shoot do I put it at a certain angle from model for rim light, fill ..etc?

[poloman]

Warning! I am a beginner with studio lighting!
But, from your picture it looks like your main light should be moved higher and more toward the front. Your fill light doesn't seem to be doing anything for you. To start, try positioning it to your right next to the camera and around eye level. I think it needs more power or to be closer. I am surprised with how bright the background is. Are your flashes turned way down. If you have brighter flash and smaller aperture the background will darken.
To you lighting gurus out there. If I have led the OP astray, please jump on in and correct me.

[picturecrazy]

You know, the photo you posted looks pretty good.

With the pocketwizard module in my L-358, what I do is set it in Radio trigger mode Tv and set the shutter speed and ISO so what I have my camera set to. Then I get the model (in my case, usually a bride... which means these shoots are likely more rushed than model shoots) to hold the light meter infront of her face (with the dome twisted 180 degrees) and she hits the button, while I stand behind the light. It fires the flash and I get her to tell me what the big number says. If my camera is set to F/8 and she says it reports F/10, then I drop the power my 2/3 stops and tell her to hit it again until it matches what my camera is set to. Then you're ready to go. Much faster than you running back and forth metering and then changing settings.

After a while you DO get good at guessing the flash power.

[zed]

That is very good advice. I should not have attempted by new lighting on a shoot but oh well learn for next time. the light meter has something like an AV mode? So I wireleslly pop the flashes and it will tell me what power to set strobes? What if I want to shoot at lens apperature f/4 the whole time?



I would suggest to work through one thing at a time, at least for the basics.

There is some really good advice and examples on lights and reflectors here: http://www.photoflexlightingschool.com/


Play with one light to start, then add another light, play some more and so on.

If you want to shoot at f4, just set your meter at f4, pop the flash and adjust the flash output until the meter reads f4. If you are using a main and fill, then they both should equal f4 when they are fired together. So your main will be a little over f4 and the fill will be a little under f4 (depending on the ratio you want).

Jeff

[imationx]

You know, the photo you posted looks pretty good.

With the pocketwizard module in my L-358, what I do is set it in Radio trigger mode Tv and set the shutter speed and ISO so what I have my camera set to. Then I get the model (in my case, usually a bride... which means these shoots are likely more rushed than model shoots) to hold the light meter infront of her face (with the dome twisted 180 degrees) and she hits the button, while I stand behind the light. It fires the flash and I get her to tell me what the big number says. If my camera is set to F/8 and she says it reports F/10, then I drop the power my 2/3 stops and tell her to hit it again until it matches what my camera is set to. Then you're ready to go. Much faster than you running back and forth metering and then changing settings.

After a while you DO get good at guessing the flash power.

That info helps a lot. I will try it out when I get home and let you know how things turn out. Do you think it is neccsary for flash diffusers or umberllas?

[mtndew]

Best way to learn is to go thru some fashion magazines and find some images that catches your eye. Take those images and try to figure out where the lights are. Then try to replica that image From Metering, placement of lights try,retry til its right.