Dark Photos

[Hoof Hearted]

I'm trying to learn how to use my new 10D. I was using it with my EF 75-300 4-5.6 zoom lens today. I was using Program AE mode.

Almost all my photos came out 1 or 2 stops too dark. When I look at the image information, typical values might be 1/750 x F8. So obviously the lens can be opened up some more. It was a bright sunny day. Most of the photos had some sky visible. But even the sky was too dark.

I know I can use the thumbwheel to adjust the exposure level, but why might the camera be getting it so wrong?

[KennyG]

You didn't say what you were trying to photograph. Program AE is too general and you should really use Av or TV depending on whether you need control over aperture for something like landscapes or shutter for moving subjects.

Also the metering mode is important and where it is metering from. Focus on a white shirt reflecting a lot of light and that will control the exposure, which is probably not what you want. Wedding photographers have had the problem for years - bride dressed in white and the groom in black.

There are circumstances where you need to adjust the exposure up or down. This is where the histogram plays its part. It is worth taking a first shot of a sequence and then do a review the histogram. It will tell you how much to adjust exposure compensation.

Keep an eye on the direction of the sun. Shooting into it isn't a good idea unless unavoidable, then things like fill flash and exposure compensation really come into play.

Bit of a learning curve I'm afraid, but there are a lot of people here to help. I'm off to shoot some Aston Martin cars racing at Oulton Park tomorrow and I know I'll be moving around with the sun and having to use exposure compensation at some point.

[Hoof Hearted]

You might guess from my Avatar, that I'm photographing gliders. Usually taking off or landing. These gliders are very white. Just like the brides dress you mentioned. But everything is too dark!. Even the gliders came out grey. The Sun was almost behind me so yes the gliders are well illuminated. I used centre weighted metering.

I've put a photo up on a website. You might care to look at this:

http://www.bccgroup.co.uk/photos/darkglider.jpg

I don't know how to interpret the histogram yet. The instruction manual doesn't give much information

[drisley]

Because the center object is that bright white glider, the metering will under focus to prevent blown out highlights.
In situations like this, add some exposure compensatin.

[elm54]

Hello here are 2 links one is to Darkglider. I adjusted the photo alittle in PS.
The other is a good place to learn...
1) http://www.pbase.com/image/29551755
2) http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/expose-right.shtml
the "Luminous Landscape" web site is full of great stuff. :D

I hope this helps.
Eric

[KennyG]

Exactly as Drisley has said, it has metered for the white glider which was reflecting a lot of sunlight. You can recover these, not perfect, but acceptable, as has been shown.

It is a 'problem' we all suffer from and has nothing to do with brand/model of camera, they all do the same. I get sudden 'surprises' when a racing car suddenly comes in my direction with his high power HID headlights on in broad daylight. That makes a similar mess of exposure, but is worse as it only applies to one car.

If you shoot in RAW format it will give you more lattitude at conversion time to rescue any under/over exposed shots.

[Hoof Hearted]

elm54: The image you processed highlights a problem. The glider appears correctly exposed, but the grass is very dark indeed for a sunny day.

But perhaps this is because the original image was underexposed and a lot of the encoding levels have been lost.

I like the tutorial. Thank you. I'm going to bed now. So you won't here from me again today.

[KennyG]

Here is the image with exposure corrected. I created an action some time ago to lift the darker areas without adding to any blown ones. It is obviously easier to get close to the right exposure in the first place, but for images like this not everything is lost.

http://www.stiuk.dial.pipex.com/dg-mod.jpg

[Hoof Hearted]

Well to me the grass still looks desperately dark considering it was a bright sunny day. If the weather holds today I will try again with some exposure compensation. I know how to make basic use of the histogram now.

[elm54]

Well to me the grass still looks desperately dark considering it was a bright sunny day. If the weather holds today I will try again with some exposure compensation. I know how to make basic use of the histogram now.
Hi again,
I just messed with that image with PS to raise the white out of the glider, I only spent about 5 minutes to edit it and upload it to show some possibility, When I shoot out side on a sunny day I will sometime bump up the exposure comp 1 stop or if you use a tripod you might try bracketting your shot as the glider is the only thing moving you could then try combining them for more range.

[Canuck]

You might guess from my Avatar, that I'm photographing gliders. Usually taking off or landing. These gliders are very white. Just like the brides dress you mentioned. But everything is too dark!. Even the gliders came out grey. The Sun was almost behind me so yes the gliders are well illuminated. I used centre weighted metering.

I've put a photo up on a website. You might care to look at this:

http://www.bccgroup.co.uk/photos/darkglider.jpg

I don't know how to interpret the histogram yet. The instruction manual doesn't give much information

This is why when I am shooting aircraft pics I will go full manual +1/3 to +2. I just like the fact that you can ignore the camera and shoot what you want how you want. This allows you to in the eyes of the camera to overexpose it, but in reality exposing it the way it should be. I am really not impressed with the creative zones as was with the Canon EOS 50E.

[bolling]

I am a novice but couldn't you go by the sunny 16 rule at least as a starter. F-stop at 16 and shutter speed at whatever ISO you are using and any combination that is the same exposure.