Need help understandig what I did wrong

[veteq]

I have another race coming up in two weeks and need to increase the percentage of usable shots per session.

Equipment used:Rebel XTi with a 70-200 4.0L lens

here is the 1st problem

when I take a picture of a subject with the lens fullly closed (200mmm) and the subject is far away, it comes out dull (out of focus).
what am I doing wrong?

Setting in these picture
Tv(Shutter Speed)
1/320Sec.
Av(Aperture Value)
F5.6
Metering Modes
Evaluative metering
Exposure Compensation
0
ISO Speed
100
Lens
EF70-200mm f/4L USM


http://www.redcedarphotography.com/webPics/Full-bad.jpg

http://www.redcedarphotography.com/webPics/zoom.jpg

problem 2

lots of the short I tried to pane came out out of focus.... is panning hit and miss?


Settings
ImageWidth - 3888
ImageLength - 2592
BitsPerSample - 16 16 16
Compression - 1 (None)
PhotometricInterpretation - 2
Make - Canon
Model - Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XTi
Orientation - Top left
SamplesPerPixel - 3
XResolution - 350.00
YResolution - 350.00
PlanarConfiguration - 1
ResolutionUnit - Inch
Software - Adobe Photoshop CS3 Windows
DateTime - 2007:07:16 12:32:09
ExifOffset - 312
ExposureTime - 1/320 seconds
FNumber - 6.30
ExposureProgram - Shutter priority
ISOSpeedRatings - 100
ExifVersion - 0221
DateTimeOriginal - 2007:07:15 12:58:36
DateTimeDigitized - 2007:07:15 12:58:36
ShutterSpeedValue - 1/320 seconds
ApertureValue - F 6.30
ExposureBiasValue - 0.00
Flash - Not fired, compulsory flash mode
FocalLength - 180 mm
UserComment -
FlashPixVersion - 0100
ColorSpace - sRGB
ExifImageWidth - 800
ExifImageHeight - 600
FocalPlaneXResolution - 4433.30
FocalPlaneYResolution - 4453.61
FocalPlaneResolutionUnit - Inch
CustomRendered - Normal process
ExposureMode - Auto
White Balance - Auto
SceneCaptureType - Standard

Thumbnail: -
Compression - 6 (JPG)
XResolution - 72
YResolution - 72
ResolutionUnit - Inch
JpegIFOffset - 1070
JpegIFByteCount - 4458
http://www.redcedarphotography.com/webPics/bad.jpg

Here is one that turned out ok
http://www.redcedarphotography.com/webPics/good.jpg

Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

[Tubthumper]

How are you focusing: auto or manual? I haven't done much in the way of high speed stuff like this, but it looks to me like it's just a focusing issue.

[veteq]

I was using autofocus,
the AF was the center point and I tried both the AI Focus and AI servo.

[Trackday.Net]

Here's my take on your problem:

1. Subject it too far away. Don't expect to get a lot of detail when you enlarge it.
2. Shutter speed is too slow
3. Too much shake. Your technique needs a little more work.
4. Lighting on the 1st shot is muted because of the cloud cover. The 2nd one pops real good because it's well lit.

Example of a side pan (http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/554043)

[Cr4zYH3aD]

Maybe use AI Servo for moving subject it will adjust the focus if they move

I use center-weighted metering all the time the evaluative aint great

cloudy sky = 400/800 iso, usually 400

Camera will have difficulty focusing if its too far, or too small, or neutral color

[petrolhead]

I always use AI Servo mode when shooting motorsport

Interesting comment re using centre weighted Cr4z. What does everyone else use? I use Eval

[silvrr]

Try shooting in Tv mode. Using AI servo and pratice your panning and camera skills

I shot 2250 shots this weekend with the same equipment and I would say about 30% of them have that 'pop'.

I found 1/200 is good but starts to freeze the wheels in corners, 1/125 or 1/160 worked well for me.

When you pan follow the bike for a bit snap your pictures and follow if for another second. This will ensure you keep a nice smooth pan while you take the actual picture.

[GSH]

I was using autofocus,
the AF was the center point and I tried both the AI Focus and AI servo.

Forget AI Focus, it's worse than useless for Motorsports. Stick with AI Servo.

[veteq]

Try shooting in Tv mode. Using AI servo and pratice your panning and camera skills

I shot 2250 shots this weekend with the same equipment and I would say about 30% of them have that 'pop'.

I found 1/200 is good but starts to freeze the wheels in corners, 1/125 or 1/160 worked well for me.

When you pan follow the bike for a bit snap your pictures and follow if for another second. This will ensure you keep a nice smooth pan while you take the actual picture.

I did use TV mode but had to use a much higher Shuttle speed, between 320 and 400. Anything lower would return completly burry pictures.
My first time out, I will get another shot at in in 3 week, AMA in Mid-ohio.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

[bfox]

Seems like the advice you got was spot on. It just takes practice.
But I'll add my 2 cents:
1)Keep in mind that you can use faster shutter speeds (1/400th or so) for head-on shots, just be sure to get some blur on the wheels so the bike/car does not look parked. Avoid super fast shutter speeds like 1/1000th.
2)Drop the shutter speed for panning shots. Slower the shutter the more blur you'll get on the back ground and the wheels....but the more crucial your panning technique needs to be to keep your subject sharp. Expect your keeper rate to drop when panning.
3)Check your histogram to be sure the exposure is ok. The camera will not always give you exactly what you want for exposure either. Light and Dark cars/bikes will really mess you up because the camera will expose properly for them (assuming center focus point/metering) , but everything else will be either blown out (dark subjects) or under-exposed (bright subjects). I often find a comprimise shutter speed and aperture combination that works for all and shoot manual. And I've given up on trying to keep white helmets properly exposed. I let 'em clip and don't worry about it. If it was up to me I'd outlaw white helmets in motorsports!
Good luck.
-B

I did use TV mode but had to use a much higher Shuttle speed, between 320 and 400. Anything lower would return completly burry pictures.
My first time out, I will get another shot at in in 3 week, AMA in Mid-ohio.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

[KennyG]

I always use AI Servo mode when shooting motorsport

Interesting comment re using centre weighted Cr4z. What does everyone else use? I use Eval

I use Eval and always have done, even with pre-digital 1 series.

I notice the sample shot was using ISO100 which is one of the reasons there is a problem. Out-of-the box settings for most motorpsort is ISO200, however I go as high as 400 in daylight as a means of controlling the depth of field.

I could never figure out why AI Focus was an option. It has too much overhead to do what it is supposed to do. IA Servo is the correct choice.

Don't get hung up on the centre focus point. For bikes the one above is better, and for cars the one below gives a better composed shot.

When you get more practice and are more comfortable with the camera, use Manual mode when the lighting is a problem, especially when cars are using headlights.

[veteq]

Thank you for all the tips, I checked out allot of the motorsports pictures posted on the forum and in most cases a shuttle speed of 320 or less were used ; once at the track, I immediately noticed that 320 was producing blurry pictures; that's when I bumped to 400 and later 500. I never thought of changing the ISO.

Thanks for all the tips, hoping to do better next time. I have to understand the technique of panning properly. I might be following the subject for too long.

[forno]

I think you shot the fisrt ones in auto yeh?
that mode is more than likely using all the focus points and trying to find an average.

The last shot is done in Tv so its probably only using the centre point that you are after