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Saturn
17th of June 2004 (Thu), 15:49
Hello:

Canon does not list the 10D as being compatible with the Speedlite Transmitter ST-E2.

Has anyone experimented with this setup?

PacAce
17th of June 2004 (Thu), 16:07
Hello:

Canon does not list the 10D as being compatible with the Speedlite Transmitter ST-E2.

Has anyone experimented with this setup?

Not sure what you mean by "Canon does not list" (does not list where?) but if you look in the back of your 10D manual, you'll see that the ST-E2 is indeed listed as a compatible accessory for the 10D.

robertwgross
17th of June 2004 (Thu), 16:25
It is possible that the Canon reference might have been written before the 10D was introduced in the marketplace. But the ST-E2 transmitter works fine on my old D60 and also its newer brethren.

One subject saw the ST-E2 on my camera and exclaimed "Your flash didn't fire!"

---Bob Gross---

scottbergerphoto
17th of June 2004 (Thu), 16:51
The STE2 is a stripped down 550EX. The 550EX can do everything the STE2 can do and fire a flash. Why not get an extra 550EX? For $130 more, you get another great flash.
Scott

robertwgross
17th of June 2004 (Thu), 17:16
Sometimes you don't want to have your main light directly at the camera. It is more common to want to move the main light a few feet to the left and put the second light a few feet to the right. That is the perfect situation to have some kind of master at the camera, and the ST-E2 does that with less cost than the 550EX.

It kind of matters where the angles are. Each slave has to be within direct line-of-sight from the master. In some cases, having the master at the camera is a better angle than having the master at the 550EX.

---Bob Gross---

velvetjones
17th of June 2004 (Thu), 21:15
So if you ARE using the 550ex to trigger other slaves can you use it as a master device and also disarm the flash...or does it always have to go off?

ejwebb
17th of June 2004 (Thu), 22:57
I have a mint condition ST-E2 that I will sell. Send a PM if interested. Thanks.

robertwgross
18th of June 2004 (Fri), 00:54
So if you ARE using the 550ex to trigger other slaves can you use it as a master device and also disarm the flash...or does it always have to go off?

The "flash" function is somewhat separate from the wireless function. The 550EX can be set for wireless Master and still shut down the flash.

My standard group portait setup has the ST-E2 on the camera, the 550EX out to the left, and the 420EX out to the right, all wireless.

---Bob Gross---

scottbergerphoto
18th of June 2004 (Fri), 05:04
Sometimes you don't want to have your main light directly at the camera. It is more common to want to move the main light a few feet to the left and put the second light a few feet to the right. That is the perfect situation to have some kind of master at the camera, and the ST-E2 does that with less cost than the 550EX.

It kind of matters where the angles are. Each slave has to be within direct line-of-sight from the master. In some cases, having the master at the camera is a better angle than having the master at the 550EX.

---Bob Gross---
I agree Bob. You would usually use the 550EX as a wireless trigger only, when in the hot shoe. But if you have the 550EX instead of the STE2, you can use it as a shoe mounted flash if your in a situation where you don't want to use a bracket. I rarely see a NY PJ use a bracket.
Scott

scottbergerphoto
18th of June 2004 (Fri), 05:08
So if you ARE using the 550ex to trigger other slaves can you use it as a master device and also disarm the flash...or does it always have to go off?
The Flash function of the 550EX can be turned off and just use the transmitter fuction. This can be set on the flash, and on the 10D via custom functions.
Scott

martcol
18th of June 2004 (Fri), 06:21
Hello:

Canon does not list the 10D as being compatible with the Speedlite Transmitter ST-E2.

Has anyone experimented with this setup?

Yes

It works fine. I have ST-E2, 550 EX and 420 EX.

There were compatability problems I think initially but that was fixed in the latest firmware. So, make sure you're up-to-date there.

Martin

DaveG
18th of June 2004 (Fri), 06:46
Sometimes you don't want to have your main light directly at the camera. It is more common to want to move the main light a few feet to the left and put the second light a few feet to the right. That is the perfect situation to have some kind of master at the camera, and the ST-E2 does that with less cost than the 550EX.

It kind of matters where the angles are. Each slave has to be within direct line-of-sight from the master. In some cases, having the master at the camera is a better angle than having the master at the 550EX.

---Bob Gross---

Bob the way that you set up portrait lighting is to have a main light and a fill. The fill MUST be within 20 degrees of the camera. The idea of the fill is that it puts the same amount of light on both sides of the subject's face. The main light can pretty much go anywhere but 45 degrees to one side will give you pretty good portrait lighting.

If the difference between the two flashes is about one stop (with the main being the one that's one stop brighter) then you have achieved a 3:1 lighting ratio. Any film or capture device can handle this one stop latitude. So you have an off camera directional main light, while the fill keeps the shadows from being too dark.

In any case that fill can be ANYWHERE within that 20 degrees, including being right on top of the camera. If you try this set up I think that you'll find the results identical to using the ST-E2 with the 550 off camera. The last thing that you want is two flashes at roughly the same power with both of them at say 35 degrees from the camera. You'll get horrible cross lighting and no ratio.

slejhamer
18th of June 2004 (Fri), 07:43
I use the 10D with ST-E2 and two 420EXs as my portable lighting setup, and it works well. Martcol is correct that the latest firmware update fixed a problem with ST-E2 compatibility.

Here is a recent corporate headshot I did using the same setup described by DaveG. The catchlights give an indication of where the lights were positioned. Main light to the right at 45 degrees, fill above the camera and slightly left, both flashes on stands firing into umbrellas. Ratio was set on the ST-E2 at either 4:1 or 5:1 (I usually use a stronger ratio for men than I do for women.)

http://www.pbase.com/image/26711770.jpg

Saturn
18th of June 2004 (Fri), 08:02
Hello:

Scott Berger's comment made perfect sense. Get another flash for only a few bucks more than the ST-E2. I don't need another 550. Does the 420 provide the same functionality as the 550, just less output??

Thanks.

scottbergerphoto
18th of June 2004 (Fri), 08:08
Hello:

Scott Berger's comment made perfect sense. Get another flash for only a few bucks more than the ST-E2. I don't need another 550. Does the 420 provide the same functionality as the 550, just less output??

Thanks.
The 420EX has no Manual Mode , no Cfn's, and can't work as a wireless master. It can't replace the STE2 as the 550EX can.
Regards,
Scott

timmyquest
18th of June 2004 (Fri), 10:11
The STE2 is a stripped down 550EX. The 550EX can do everything the STE2 can do and fire a flash. Why not get an extra 550EX? For $130 more, you get another great flash.
Scott

So 550EX's can talk to themselves???

jgbeam
18th of June 2004 (Fri), 10:56
Here is a recent corporate headshot I did using the same setup described by DaveG. The catchlights give an indication of where the lights were positioned. Main light to the right at 45 degrees, fill above the camera and slightly left, both flashes on stands firing into umbrellas. Ratio was set on the ST-E2 at either 4:1 or 5:1 (I usually use a stronger ratio for men than I do for women.)



Nice headshot. Maybe you can give me some guidance. I just bought a 420EX and an ST-E2 to add to my 550EX to do headshots for actors at a community theatre. I have done these shots before but with a single, on-camera 550EX with an Omni-Bounce. I have Omni-Bounce diffusers for both flashes but wonder if umbrellas would be better. I have light stands which will support umbrellas but wonder if the diffusers will be OK. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Jim

robertwgross
18th of June 2004 (Fri), 11:11
I agree Bob. You would usually use the 550EX as a wireless trigger only, when in the hot shoe. But if you have the 550EX instead of the STE2, you can use it as a shoe mounted flash if your in a situation where you don't want to use a bracket. I rarely see a NY PJ use a bracket.
Scott

I have more concern about carrying too much excess weight over a distance, so I look for the lightest device to get a particular job done right. The ST-E2 weighs just about nothing.

---Bob Gross---

chris.bailey
18th of June 2004 (Fri), 11:22
I agree Bob. You would usually use the 550EX as a wireless trigger only, when in the hot shoe. But if you have the 550EX instead of the STE2, you can use it as a shoe mounted flash if your in a situation where you don't want to use a bracket. I rarely see a NY PJ use a bracket.
Scott

I have more concern about carrying too much excess weight over a distance, so I look for the lightest device to get a particular job done right. The ST-E2 weighs just about nothing.

---Bob Gross---

The STE2 also does not upset the balance of the camera like a 550EX does AND if you play around a bit you can use the STE2 to set off studio lights mixed in with a 550 or 420.

toddb
18th of June 2004 (Fri), 11:45
Nice head-shot. Maybe you can give me some guidance. I just bought a 420EX and an ST-E2 to add to my 550EX to do head-shots for actors at a community theatre. I have done these shots before but with a single, on-camera 550EX with an Omni-Bounce. I have Omni-Bounce diffusers for both flashes but wonder if umbrellas would be better. I have light stands which will support umbrellas but wonder if the diffusers will be OK. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Jim

I have the same situation, but I'm still with just the 550 and the Omni-Bounce. I want to get the ST-E2 and 420 or 550 but want to do it with something like this umbrella approach you talked about. For example, what is the camera settings you had for this head shot? Currently my portraits are very grainy due to the poor lighting setup I have now, but still have problems figuring out the shutter speed...apature I think I've figured out the right DOF, but maybe my shutter speed is too slow at 1/60.

So where do you recommend getting the stands for the flashes and the umbrellas (and size)? I've been trying to get the Home Depot halogen light setup to work, but just too hot and bright. I probably will still use a couple to light the background and maybe as a hair light though (maybe?).

Thanks for educating the clueless. :-)

OmeRobbie
18th of June 2004 (Fri), 12:20
Does anybody know of a guide where possible portrait settings with EX-flashes are describes? I own a 550ex, 420ex and ST-E2 and want to experiment with umbrella's, reflectors and stands.

slejhamer
18th of June 2004 (Fri), 12:39
I have Omni-Bounce diffusers for both flashes but wonder if umbrellas would be better. I have light stands which will support umbrellas but wonder if the diffusers will be OK. Any thoughts?


Jim Beam? Really? 8)

I've never used an omni bounce so can't really comment, but I know some photographers who use Lumiquest diffusers/bouncers for wedding photography. They seem to do a good job of softening and spreading the light, but I would think you'd want a bit more control of light and shadows for studio portraiture (even if your "studio" is the stage at the community playhouse.) What happens if you don't have white walls and ceiling to bounce the light?


For example, what is the camera settings you had for this head shot? ... So where do you recommend getting the stands for the flashes and the umbrellas (and size)? I've been trying to get the Home Depot halogen light setup to work, but just too hot and bright. I probably will still use a couple to light the background and maybe as a hair light though (maybe?).

That shot was probably taken at 1/60s, f/7.1, in Manual mode. I don't have the EXIF handy, but that's usually where I start with this setup. Then I fire off a few exposure test shots, check the histogram, and adjust FEC if needed. With umbrellas some light will spill onto the background, so the ambient exposure isn't as critical as the flash exposure.

I've gotten my stands at B&H and from my local camera shop (Penn Camera). For lightweight flashes they don't need to be especially sturdy, but if you think you might upgrade one day to studio strobes and large softboxes then spend a few extra dollars now on higher quality stands.

Not sure about mixing the halogens with flash as the different color temps might throw off the white balance. I mostly shoot children so hot lights are not a good option for me anyway.

Cheers,

jgbeam
18th of June 2004 (Fri), 12:40
Does anybody know of a guide where possible portrait settings with EX-flashes are describes? I own a 550ex, 420ex and ST-E2 and want to experiment with umbrella's, reflectors and stands.

Google for portrait lighting and you will get a lot of info. The principles of placement, ratios, etc. apply for flash, strobes and hot lights.

Jim

ekim
18th of June 2004 (Fri), 13:09
I've gotten my stands at B&H and from my local camera shop (Penn Camera). For lightweight flashes they don't need to be especially sturdy, but if you think you might upgrade one day to studio strobes and large softboxes then spend a few extra dollars now on higher quality stands.


I have light weight stands but I put ankle weights on them to make them a bit sturdier.

Saturn
18th of June 2004 (Fri), 14:12
Hello again:

Boy, a simple compatibility question has really exploded into an interesting series of posts :P A lot of my shooting is done with 550 on camera, as an outdoor fill. Having another 550 or the 420 on slave would be helpful for certain situations. How does the E2 (or 550 as a master) work outdoors? Does it need a direct line of sight to the slave, because there's no bounce outdoors?? What maximum distance (if a direct sight-line to the master), will the slave fire? Do you think shooting in the rain (don't ask why :wink:) wil have a negative effect on the signal's travel?

Thanks again.

OmeRobbie
18th of June 2004 (Fri), 15:15
Does anybody know of a guide where possible portrait settings with EX-flashes are describes? I own a 550ex, 420ex and ST-E2 and want to experiment with umbrella's, reflectors and stands.

Google for portrait lighting and you will get a lot of info. The principles of placement, ratios, etc. apply for flash, strobes and hot lights.

Jim

I have a lot of basic info already...
but the question is if there's a guide specific voor EX-flashes. I have read a time ago about such a brochure of EX-flashes, but now I can't find it anymore....

I also wonder if someone uses EX-flashes combined with strobes or continious lighting. If I want a strobe, I probably can't use the ST-E2 with the EX-flashes...

santa
18th of June 2004 (Fri), 21:23
there are a variety of flash help pdf and such out there. One of the better ones is

http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/

robertwgross
18th of June 2004 (Fri), 23:46
Bob the way that you set up portrait lighting is to have a main light and a fill. The fill MUST be within 20 degrees of the camera. The idea of the fill is that it puts the same amount of light on both sides of the subject's face. The main light can pretty much go anywhere but 45 degrees to one side will give you pretty good portrait lighting.

If the difference between the two flashes is about one stop (with the main being the one that's one stop brighter) then you have achieved a 3:1 lighting ratio. Any film or capture device can handle this one stop latitude. So you have an off camera directional main light, while the fill keeps the shadows from being too dark.

In any case that fill can be ANYWHERE within that 20 degrees, including being right on top of the camera. If you try this set up I think that you'll find the results identical to using the ST-E2 with the 550 off camera. The last thing that you want is two flashes at roughly the same power with both of them at say 35 degrees from the camera. You'll get horrible cross lighting and no ratio.

What I didn't state is that normally I move my 420EX (on the right) back a little bit. That accomplishes dropping it off a stop. I always make some difference from right to left. Sometimes I put a big diffuser on one side.

---Bob Gross---

toddb
19th of June 2004 (Sat), 01:46
I've gotten my stands at B&H and from my local camera shop (Penn Camera). For lightweight flashes they don't need to be especially sturdy, but if you think you might upgrade one day to studio strobes and large softboxes then spend a few extra dollars now on higher quality stands.



I've looked at some stands and umbrellas at B&H but don't quite under stand how the umbrella attaches? I see references to umbrellas attaching to the flash, but in the 550/420 there isn't one. Is this just a clamp onto the stand kind of deal? And that screw in on the top of these stands, I take it that will work with the table platform thing that comes with these flashes. Thanks for clearing up these little details for me. Money is tight, don't want to be shipping stuff back.

Like this: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=NavBar&A=getItemDetail&Q=&sku=200412&is=REG &si=feat#goto_itemInfo

slejhamer
19th of June 2004 (Sat), 07:17
ToddB, you would also need an umbrella bracket with hot-shoe mount, like these:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=188807&is=REG

They are not included with the kits, because many studio lights have slots for umbrellas built into the reflectors, making the brackets unnecessary.

toddb
19th of June 2004 (Sat), 11:17
Thanks slejhamer, I would never have found that little jem.