Is there a solution to lense shadow with the S3 IS

[MusicallySilent]

I recently bought the S3 IS because it seemed to have all I wanted and I decided the S5 wasn't worth double my money with all the extras I could get for that spare 200 dollars

There is pretty much one thing I dislike about the camera so far and that is when I try to take a "super" macro of something I have to get the lense so close to the subject that it often if not all the time makes a shadow from the lense on an edge of the picture from the built in flash. (I only use the flash in conditions where I need the shutter speed fast enough to capture something)

Here is an example of the problem using the manual:

http://img105.imageshack.us/img105/2789/img02072mn6.th.jpg (http://img105.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img02072mn6.jpg)


I was wondering if any of you guys could answer these questions:

Is there any way to get rid of this problem without spending any money such as some specific settings or tweaks?

Is there a really easy almost 100% way to make a simple diffuser to aim the light down?

Would this possibly help me: Canon Brand Flash (http://www.amazon.com/Canon-HF-DC1-Powershot-Digital-Cameras/dp/B0007MGFI2/ref=pd_bbs_1/002-0316737-3861637?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1185995622&sr=8-1)
I was thinking It might be possible to set that somewhere where it would get triggered and fire to get rid of shadows...

I was also thinking maybe if anyone has used something like this Sunpack arm mount (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002A0C92/sr/ref=pd_cp_e_1/002-0316737-3861637?ie=UTF8&qid=1185995622&sr=8-4&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-41&pf_rd_r=1X8K94HMG4W5PE7CMRTQ&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=250314001&pf_rd_i=B000MUTIPG) before or something similar. I was thinking it be possible to use it with a ring flash and attach it to the adapter that you get for tele-converters that is sold by canon. It is claimed to have a built in light trigger so I was thinking I could buy a ring flash and put the flash on that. But then I am not sure if i can hook the ringflash on the adapter (can anyone confirm if you can do this) because if it works could I probably create a diffuser for the built in flash so it flashes right in the sensor

[Jon]

Only cost-free way of avoiding that problem is to not use flash. ISTR, however, that someone posted (in this particular forum) a flash "bouncer" for one of the PowerShots, made from white cardboard and/or foam core (close enough to free that it might count).

An external flash would help minimize or reduce it, but since the camera's flash will need to fire as well, it'll still be leaving a shadow. You may also have a problem getting a low-enough flash burst to not overexpose your shot if you use an external flash too.

I don't think the Sunpak arm mount you linked to will be all that helpful with a ringlight. You'd still need to work out a way to mount the ringlight about the lens.

[283CID]

For me, Super-Macro has only been useful outdoors in plenty of sun, where enough light gets on the subject when I deliberately use the shade. Bugs, and things like that. I have used S-M indoors, with 'room' light, and ISO 800, but only for showing positions of plugs/wires/whatever on circuit boards, etc... 'tool' application, and it did what I wanted [no thought for quality of picture or noise].

[MusicallySilent]

Yea my main thoughts about the ring light was if it was possible to mount it to the adapter that you get for the converters because then if you could mount it on that it might help but I wasn't exactly sure how you go about mounting a ring light... I have seen it done on a compact camera at the dentists before.. I think it was a canon of some sort possibly a older G model

[raimisch]

Depending on the ring light the mounting will vary. I've never used a store bought one, only ones that I have made myself, and have just mounted the lights on an adjustable strap that just got tightened untill it wouldn't fall off. If you are confident in your skills to work with wiring and LED lights it might make more sense to build your own other then buy one, though it will act more as a flashlight and not a flash, as it will just be on constantly. But for the super macro shoots it does work well.

[eccles]

I encountered this problem soon after buying my S3 last year. The obscured flash was half the problem, the other being that getting an inch from a butterfly or bug without spooking it was near impossible. My answer was to get a lens adapter and the Canon 500D close up lens. With this, the camera operates at the telephoto end of the zoom, focussing between 12" and 20". This is far enough away to get good lighting from the onboard flash, and also helps to avoid scaring away a live subject. You don't have to use the Canon lens but you should avoid Vivitar, Hoya or no-name single element lenses.

[MusicallySilent]

Yea I am probably gonna get the close up filter and the hood adapter kit... I might also try the super macro trick with my dads old yashica 50mm f2 prime.