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Mum2J&M
6th of August 2007 (Mon), 19:41
Now that I've given in to using flash indoors, I want to figure out how to do it properly. In the photos below, you can see shadows beneath chins and can clearly tell I was bouncing off the ceiling. Although I used the diffuser, the shadows seem somewhat harsh to me. Do you think there was simply too much light under the circumstances, or should I have a different method - like using a wall or something? I don't know if the exif will show up in the images below, but they are the first images on my smugmug page. Thanks for any input.
http://cleo68.smugmug.com/photos/180759545-M.jpg

http://cleo68.smugmug.com/photos/180760340-M.jpg

Mum2J&M
6th of August 2007 (Mon), 20:31
Wow... 24 views and not one response. Must've been a stupid question, lol.

partsman
6th of August 2007 (Mon), 22:22
Look at the videos in this link. www.abetterbouncecard.com (http://www.abetterbouncecard.com)
I've had really good results with these. Their kind of a pain to put on and look a little funny but work well. Watch all 3 videos.

Mike R
6th of August 2007 (Mon), 23:33
For insight into Canon Flashes check out this link. I t is a PDF doc that is well worth reading, and printing out as a reference. Be advised the it is long but in 3 parts.

http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/

B3SEO
7th of August 2007 (Tue), 00:16
Mum, stop being so hard on yourself. Those photos are fine. Those shadows are nothing to be concerned about. I've seen photos that were a thousand times worse than those.

cdifoto
7th of August 2007 (Tue), 00:19
The 2nd is somewhat harsh, but barring the use of a bracket and bounce card/light modifier combination, they wouldn't bother me any.

If you want even softer shadows and there's a white/light colored wall beside or behind you, bounce off that instead. Also, try dragging your shutter to let more ambient light in, so your flash plays a smaller role in the overall exposure. Your backgrounds will lighten up and your subjects will pop a bit more.

Tee Why
7th of August 2007 (Tue), 01:58
Anytime you use directional lighting, you will often get harsh shadows. Even if you are using a diffuser, this is not always easy to avoid. If you don't want shadows like that in the first one, it maybe better to aim it straight at the face.

I also agree with another poster that recommends dragging the shutter. In fill flash, you use flash to fill in the darker areas/shadows while ambient light does the real exposing.

If you are in M mode with the flash, the flash is the main source of exposure. Use slower shutter speeds/wider aperture/higher ISO to let ambient light "fill in" the dark parts of you image.

I guess the other thing is to use a reflector or two off shoe flashes. Hell, just get some studio lights. It'll never end if you are in a quest for more gear. Before you shoot move to locations where lighting is more even or where you can diffuse a bit better.

In2Photos
7th of August 2007 (Tue), 08:12
How close to your subject are you in these shots? My guess is pretty close. If that is the case you will get shadows under the chin. Move further back and the shadows will lessen, if not go completely away. Also, get down lower, the first shot is straight on but the second is from above.

As others have said, the shadows don't really bother me though.

stoph
7th of August 2007 (Tue), 08:35
Those are some cute kids. My kids are 16-24 and not so interested in helping their Dad practice. Guess I have to wait for the grandkids.

René Damkot
7th of August 2007 (Tue), 08:48
Also, I'ld say the shadows are caused by the direct light coming from the diffuser, *not* from the light bounced off the ceiling.

If you are bothered by it, point your flash straight up, and use a (small) bouncecard.

Comparison of different flash difusers here (http://www.shootsmarter.com/infocenter/pg005.html). (email login is worth it)

linarms
7th of August 2007 (Tue), 08:50
A few tips:

1.) Move a little further away from your subjects (but not too far) -- as already suggested. Just think about where the light source generated by your flash on the ceiling will be. If you're too close, the light source will practically be above your subject (not the most flattering spot). Consider aiming your flash head behind you if you can't move further away.

2.) Use a flip-it or something similar. (I like the flip-it because it looks more professional than a handmade alternative, and the hinge delivers a lot of control.) If your "ceiling light" (created by the flash aimed at it) casts unflattering shadows (eg. in eyesockets), you can use a flip-it, angled back, to throw a little light forward to fill them in. Two light sources for the price of one!

3.) Bear in mind that the manual zooming option of your flash head gives you control of the size of your ceiling light. This can make a difference to your results, as softness is all about the size of your light source relative to your subject. Big light source = soft light. Flash head zoom on wide setting = big light source. etc.

Hope that helps.

linarms
7th of August 2007 (Tue), 08:52
Also, I'ld say the shadows are caused by the direct light coming from the diffuser, *not* from the light bounced off the ceiling.

Ditto. Hence the idea of a flip-it, angled back to provide only a little bit of fill. But the same effect can be achieved with a handmade bounce card retracted most of the way.

Mum2J&M
7th of August 2007 (Tue), 10:41
Very interesting info, thanks guys. Luke - never heard of a flip it before. I'll have to look into that one. Rene - I had the flash pointed directly up to the ceiling, so I'm not sure what you're referring to. Thanks, Chris, for the kind comments. The kids take after their father (luckily for them, lol). I'll have to do some reading about the zoom control on the flash unit. I haven't had a chance to absorb the manual yet. Hopefully this and the advice I've received here will help. Thanks all!

René Damkot
7th of August 2007 (Tue), 11:29
I had the flash pointed directly up to the ceiling, so I'm not sure what you're referring to.

I see a catchlight in the eyes of both photo's.
The shadow (and catchlight) are caused by light coming from the direction of the flash. (based on the locationof the shadows: If they came from the light coming off the ceiling, they would have been softer and 'more downward'). I presume the 'diffuser' you mentioned is something like an omnibounce?
Relatively speaking there is more light hitting the subject straight on then bounced of the ceiling.
Have a look in the link I gave.

Mum2J&M
7th of August 2007 (Tue), 14:15
I used that Sto-fen diffuser (got it for like $15 at B&H).

Mum2J&M
7th of August 2007 (Tue), 14:16
Could the catch lights been from outside? We were right next to 2 big glass doors as well.

linarms
7th of August 2007 (Tue), 19:24
Could the catch lights been from outside? We were right next to 2 big glass doors as well.

Possibly ... it depends on how the ambient light was exposed by your camera. But from the shape of the catchlights (and the position of the shadows), I suspect they came from your flash.

BTW, I have barely used my omnibounce. In situations where there is a nice white ceiling to use, it's pretty over-rated. Especially at close quarters.

In2Photos
7th of August 2007 (Tue), 19:42
Possibly ... it depends on how the ambient light was exposed by your camera. But from the shape of the catchlights (and the position of the shadows), I suspect they came from your flash.

BTW, I have barely used my omnibounce. In situations where there is a nice white ceiling to use, it's pretty over-rated. Especially at close quarters.
I like the results from the omnibounce. I typically use it at 75 degrees but it does leave shadows when used up close. I try to stay a little further away when using it.