Does anyone just use SPORTS mode?

[TwistedGray]

From the looks of all the posts you guys are doing everything with manual changes rather then just using SPORTS on the "dial"; is this correct or do some use the SPORTS mode?

[silvrr]

I beleive most use TV or manual for sports. There is alot more control using these modes than the "auto" sports mode. The camera does not know how fast your target is moving or if you want the background blurred. If you just want to catch the image it will be fine. If you want to have an image that says wow you should use the manual or semi-manual settings.

[TCorzett]

For motorsports 'SPORTS' just doesn't work very well. The 'SPORTS' mode tends to just use higher shutter speeds (to stop the motion of the sports), but that's not always what you want when shooting motorsports. Shooting in TV or M are the methods that I find work best... you set the shutter speed for the shot/subject/effect you want and the camera does the rest (in TV mode).

-Todd...

[Curtis N]

Just a short list of things you can't do on the "basic" end of the mode dial:
1) Can't shoot in RAW format
2) No exposure compensation
3) Can't select AF points
4) Can't select AF mode
5) Can't select metering mode
6) No real control over the three things that can affect your pictures the most - shutter speed, aperture and ISO.

I could go on, and I'll shamelessly proclaim that when I bought my first DSLR I used sports mode a few times. But you'll quickly progress to the point where you want more options, and more control over the camera.

[dicktay]

I will second Cutis N's post above.

[andrewc]

Sports mode isn't good for motorsport - other sports maybe, but its really idiot proof point and shoot mode for beginners and you should get out of the habit of using it ASAP. Most of the forum members I've seen aren't idiots, so use the more advanced modes to better creative effect.

[Jon, The Elder]

It is pretty much the difference between "picture Takers" or Photographers.

[In2Photos]

It is pretty much the difference between "picture Takers" or Photographers.
Oh goody, I am a photographer. :p

I use M for sports to ensure that my settings are ideal for the conditions. The light doesn't change much usually so each shot should require a similar exposure.

Also, fiddling with settings while trying to keep up with fast moving objects would yield less keepers for me. Others might be able to make changes quicker than me though.

[pagnamenta]

The biggest disadvantage to sports mode is that the ISO doesn't go above 400. If my lighting is constant, I'll use M. Av works better than Tv for me, I like to shoot wide open. Definitely have CF 4-3 set.

[TwistedGray]

I figured as much; however, when I "toy around" with the camera trying to change this and that I always get a negative effect.

What I shoot is moving motorcycles, on and off the track. Any simple suggestions. Background blurred (preferred)
Motorcycle sharp (preferred)

The average speed is somewhere around 50-60mph and up. Any suggestions on where to start and what to tweak in what direction. I usually have patience enough to do "trial and error" but figured I would ask a starting point.

[In2Photos]

I figured as much; however, when I "toy around" with the camera trying to change this and that I always get a negative effect.

What I shoot is moving motorcycles, on and off the track. Any simple suggestions. Background blurred (preferred)
Motorcycle sharp (preferred)

The average speed is somewhere around 50-60mph and up. Any suggestions on where to start and what to tweak in what direction. I usually have patience enough to do "trial and error" but figured I would ask a starting point.
If you are trying to get head on shots you need a fast shutter (maybe 1/1000), large aperture (low f number) and good distance between the rider and the background. If you are panning then you need a slower shutter (less than 1/100 from what I have seen but I am no expert on panning), and use a smaller aperture (f/8-f/11 for starters maybe) to get more DOF, the panning blurs the background. Use the ISO that gives you these other two settings.

[Aleksandar]

I agree with the other posters. I only use AV-mode when the light is constantly changing (sun is continuously playing peek-a-boo from behind the clouds) but otherwise I'll use Manual.

[TwistedGray]

If you are trying to get head on shots you need a fast shutter (maybe 1/1000), large aperture (low f number) and good distance between the rider and the background. If you are panning then you need a slower shutter (less than 1/100 from what I have seen but I am no expert on panning), and use a smaller aperture (f/8-f/11 for starters maybe) to get more DOF, the panning blurs the background. Use the ISO that gives you these other two settings.

What kind of distance are we talking about. On the track it is usually banked/cambered turns so the rider and the track are quite near. However, on the street you get more distance in relationship to the rider and the background.

I am guessing, humor me, that on the track you would be using the "panning" method and vice versa for the street? Which part on the dial...

[In2Photos]

What kind of distance are we talking about. On the track it is usually banked/cambered turns so the rider and the track are quite near. However, on the street you get more distance in relationship to the rider and the background.

I am guessing, humor me, that on the track you would be using the "panning" method and vice versa for the street? Which part on the dial...
The distance will depend on focal length and the distance between you and the rider. The greater the distance between the rider and background the more blur. the less distance between the rider and you the more background blur. The longer the focal length the more background blur. Check out a DOF calculator for more info.

You could use either method, panning or head on, in either scenario, track or street. Check out the motorsports section for a great thread with lots of panning pics. As for the dial I assume you mean on the camera. There is no specific mode for either of these scenarios. I would use M mode and lots of trial and error starting with the numbers I gave above. You can even practice this on cars driving down the street in front of your house.

[JWright]

From the looks of all the posts you guys are doing everything with manual changes rather then just using SPORTS on the "dial"; is this correct or do some use the SPORTS mode?

I never use anything on that side of the dial... The point and shoot modes as I call them. I would prefer that Canon just left them off the camera altogether. Then they could use the available space and programming for something truly useful.

[SilverOnemi]

i found that somehow i get my 350D to send constant signals to focus, but when in any manual mode (ai servo) it's somehow slower, ( yes i'm using center focus point only ).

i still prefer using TV for this.

[In2Photos]

i found that somehow i get my 350D to send constant signals to focus, but when in any manual mode (ai servo) it's somehow slower, ( yes i'm using center focus point only ).

i still prefer using TV for this.
That makes no sense. Camera Mode has no bearing on AF speed.

[toddharrison]

I never use sports mode sometimes if I'm trying to get the one picture then I sset it up take a 100 pictures a second. and hope for the best. but I like to setings to be manuel!

[SilverOnemi]

i know it sounds impossible, but it's true.

btw it sends more signals when it is sport mode, then any other manual mode with AI servo on.

[Colyn]

Ok after reading this I feel fairly intimidated because I qualify as an "idiot" because I use the Sports mode a lot ... on my 400D that is the setting it is glued on and with a 17-85 USM IS lense.

I have a peculiar category of photography that I pursue ... Shooting from the Saddle ... that is off my bike's saddle and I am traveling at speeds that range between 100 and 160 km/h when on the LT and 100-180 when on the GT.

I find that the sports setting is the one setting that will give me shots almost every time.

Here is one example of a shot ... done at around 120 kmh ...

http://www.tripwired.co.za/JCS_Bucket/TW_Shots/ShootFromSaddle/CanonF00/sfs_LFire_00a.jpg

[SilverOnemi]

underexposed, i don't know if this still works with the 400D , nice shot tho.

[Colyn]

You think it is underexposed ? ... there was lots of smoke ...

Here is a shot at around 160 kmh ...

http://www.tripwired.co.za/JCS_Bucket/TW_Shots/ShootFromSaddle/CanonF00/sfs_Eshowe_00m.jpg

[Mum2J&M]

Ok, so you are taking these images while riding a motor bike? Maybe the sports setting is best for you then, lol. Isn't that a bit dangerous?

[SilverOnemi]

owell i can take pics when i ride by bike .. but it doesnt has an engine, i guess teh speed pretty much balances you...

yeah you're right.. just too much smoke :)

[ezb]

I use a mixture of modes, sometimes sport sometimes manual, how ever, always leave my camera in sports mode for a simple reason, I'd like to be able turn it on and shoot right away if needs be, this is when doing skateboarding shots, I'd like to manual set every shot up, but just not quick enough sometimes. Can't say I've ever had a problem