Photographing BOXING with 300D

[DocFrankenstein]

What do I need? I box and the competition is coming up in a few months. I'd like to make some pics of my friends punching the crap out of their opponents.

You know, the ones where the hand meets the face, the face is severely mishaped and drops of sweat are flying off the head :lol:

I have no idea about the lighting conditions... etc...

What lenses do I need? What flash?

[Steveo31]

Lens... nothing lower than f/4. I think a good choice would be the Canon 200mm f/2.8L USM. Equates to a 320mm @ f/2.8. See if you can get a 420 or 550EX for the occasion. The 420 would probably be more practical pricewise.

[DocFrankenstein]

Isn't 300 mm be a bit too much? :shock:

I take it I'll be able to stay near the actual ring. 3 to 7 meters from the boxers.

I want both boxers to be in the pic. One with extended hand punching the other guy in the face.

Maybe I'm just confused, but full zoom with S1 IS (which is equal to 300 mm) will give a shot of a person from the chest and up.

[DocFrankenstein]

Cruel world of photography!

What if I get F5.6? It's just that the lenses are cheaper.

CANON EF 80-200MM/4.5-5.6 II AF
http://www.henrys.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ItemsDisplay?itemID=37238&storeId=10001&catalogId= 10101&departmentId=10407&categoryId=10487&order=AS C&sortKey=shortdescription

OR:

CANON EF 28-200MM/F3.5-5.6 USM
http://www.henrys.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ItemsDisplay?itemID=37259&storeId=10001&catalogId= 10101&departmentId=10407&categoryId=10487&order=AS C&sortKey=shortdescription

It's just I have a finite amound of money :cry:

There's no way I am gonna get 200 F2.8 L. Too expensive and too specialized prime lens.

But I still need a zoom lens. :twisted: Something from 55 to 200.

Maybe getting 70-200 F4 L is justified?
http://www.henrys.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ItemsDisplay?itemID=37254&storeId=10001&catalogId= 10101&departmentId=10407&categoryId=10487&order=AS C&sortKey=shortdescription

I need to research flashes. (note to self)

[slejhamer]

Doc,

You DO NOT want to use flash. Not only will it distract the fighters, your images just won't be as good as they can be. The fighters should look like they are in the ring, with the overhead or side lighting one would expect from the spectator's viewpoint. Flash pics won't look natural. (That said, a small amount of fill might be useful, but still the fighters or instructors might object.)

If you use a lens with max aperture of f/5.6, your shutter speeds will be too slow and your pics blurry. A fast lens is necessary. If you are going to be reasonably close to the action, then the 50mm f/1.8 or the 85mm f/1.8 will work wonders. From what you describe, I'd lean toward to the 85mm but you may find it too tight. You don't need a zoom. Zoom with your feet. You will need to move around to get different angles as the action moves around the ring anyway.

Depending on the lighting, plan on ISO 800 but 400 might work and 1600 might be a necessity. When I shoot martial arts classes (in a horribly lit dojo) I like to meter several spots around the room, and then switch to Manual and lock in a setting that gives me a slightly overexposed histogram. Slight overexposure (don't blow the highlights, but push 'em to the right) will help minimize the ISO noise. I shoot in RAW, and reduce EC slightly when converting.

My martial arts pics are all done with the 50mm f/1.8 lens:
http://www.pbase.com/m_schlesinger/gallery__martial_arts_favorites

[slejhamer]

Oh, and if possible, shoot a gray card beforehand and either set a custom WB or use the gray frame letter to set WB when you convert from raw.
8)

[Big_B]

Oh, and if possible, shoot a gray card beforehand and either set a custom WB or use the gray frame letter to set WB when you convert from raw.
8)

Sorry if I'm being dumb but why use a grey card rather then white?

[slejhamer]

why use a grey card rather then white?


That's a good question. Really it doesn't matter as long as the card is neutral. However, if you overexpose the white card you will get clipped colors and an inaccurate WB reading. The gray gives a little room for error. :D

[Steveo31]

In that case, the 85mm f/1.8 may be a good choice. Very fast and somewhat close range.

The grey card is 18% reflective... which is what in-camera meters try to make the scene.

[Pekka]

There is some great detailed info in http://www.sportsshooter.com/message_display.html?tid=8445