View Full Version : Got the Sunpak 383 now I have some questions
Alexajlex
13th of September 2007 (Thu), 13:44
I got the 383 and I use it with my XTi.
I've been messing around with it and trying to get an idea of how to really understand how it works.
Right now I use the manual mode (on the Sunpak..well I guess technically the flash is all manual) and set the sync speed to the max XTi of 200.
I get results but not consistent.
What I do now is I try to get the exposure figured out using the Xti to meter for whatever I'm exposing and then I set the ISO on the flash and XTi. I then use the distance chart to get me a AP setting.
I use the 383 on the hotshoe and also off camera with a PC sync cable and PC hot shoe adapter. I have an Omnibounce and a abetterbouncecard.com
I want to learn how to use it outside and indoors.
My main problem is figuring out how to get the proper exposure with the flash. When I use the XTi (I try to always be in manual unless I really need TV or AV or P) without the flash exposure is not a problem.
I'm looking for a better way to get more consistent results.
Thanks.
FlashZebra
13th of September 2007 (Thu), 13:53
Right now I use the manual mode (on the Sunpak..well I guess technically the flash is all manual) and set the sync speed to the max XTi of 200.
I get results but not consistent.
You will typically need to put your camera in manual mode, but the Sunpak 383 has a very nice "traditional automatic"* mode.
Just set you XTi to manual. Shutter speed to 1/200 second, and read the 383 users guide to determine how to use the automaic mode and set the ISO and F-number of your camera accordingly.
Enjoy! Lon
* To understand what I mean by "traditional automatic" you may want to check out this short "tip" regarding in vogue exposure control on flash. See:
http://flashzebra.com/tips/flashexposurecontrolmethods/index.shtml
Curtis N
13th of September 2007 (Thu), 14:03
It sounds like you're on the right track. Camera in M mode, manual flash. So there's a few ways to tweak it.
Using the flash unit's distance scale, you can:
1) Adjust aperture/ISO according to your subject distance
2) Adjust flash power to make subject distance match aperture
3) Adjust subject distance to match aperture
4) Any combination of the above - you get the idea.
Keep in mind this distance scale only works with direct flash, no bouncing or diffusing. The most difficult part is usally estimating your subject distance with enough precision. Also keep in mind that ambient light will add to the overall exposure and you need to account for that.
It sounds like you're trying to use it for fill flash, which is more complicated but not impossible. Maybe post a few sample shots with descriptions on your metering and we can offer more help.
Alexajlex
13th of September 2007 (Thu), 16:17
It sounds like you're on the right track. Camera in M mode, manual flash. So there's a few ways to tweak it.
Using the flash unit's distance scale, you can:
1) Adjust aperture/ISO according to your subject distance
2) Adjust flash power to make subject distance match aperture
3) Adjust subject distance to match aperture
4) Any combination of the above - you get the idea.
Keep in mind this distance scale only works with direct flash, no bouncing or diffusing. The most difficult part is usally estimating your subject distance with enough precision. Also keep in mind that ambient light will add to the overall exposure and you need to account for that.
It sounds like you're trying to use it for fill flash, which is more complicated but not impossible. Maybe post a few sample shots with descriptions on your metering and we can offer more help.
Cool. I will take some shots and upload them. I think the biggest issue I'm having is trying to figure out how the ambient light changes things.
Since the shutter is locked in at 200 for the flash sync that leaves me exposure compenstation, aperture and ISO to play around with in order to get the proper exposure.
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