430 EX FLASH

[grandadraymond]

Im trying to get to grips with my 430,and finding it pretty hard,my question is, if indoors is there a standard way to use the flash for most indoor photo's thank you ...Ray

[cctsm]

Well, the first big tip is using bounce flash. Direct the flash head upwards toward the ceiling, or towards any other reasonably neutral and bright material.

It'll give you much smoother and more natural lighting.

[grandadraymond]

is this with the flash in auto or manual, and should i put the diffuser on

[grphx]

I use auto and get good results, but I think I'm about to get reemed for using it in auto. Something about not using the flash nearly as well as it should be, but auto is very nice.

[hastur]

I would read the sticky at the top of this forum so you understand the difference between the automatic modes. Then I would point the flash head up, rubber band a 3X5 card that has been cut down in width so it's the same as the flash to the back of the head and start experimenting.
You might also check out the videos at http://www.abetterbouncecard.com/ and the information at http://super.nova.org/toc/index.html. Both of those places helped me quite a bit.

Rob

[GordonSBuck]

Im trying to get to grips with my 430,and finding it pretty hard,my question is, if indoors is there a standard way to use the flash for most indoor photo's thank you ...Ray

Basically, you need to run a bunch of tests (practice shots) to find a setup that suits you. You should start with the camera on P (Program mode), jpg (RAW is more forgiving if you are comfortable with it), ISO 400, Evaluative metering and turn on all the focus points. Set the flash for full auto (ETTL) and for bounce flash off the ceiling. No doubt that many readers/posters will take exception to this recommendation but do it anyway. Take many shots this way -- close, far away, against a window light, etc -- then try some other settings and recommendations to see if you can beat this baseline.

During your practice session, be sure to take some pictures by pressing the shutter release button halfway, hesitating and then finishing the press. Notice that there are actually two flashes. The first one is a preflash that is used to determine the amount of actual flash. You can trigger the preflash yourself by pressing the Flash Exposure Lock button (has * mark). Learn to use this in tough lighting situations before the final composition.

Gordon
http://hornerbuck.com

[Titus213]

Basically, you need to run a bunch of tests (practice shots) to find a setup that suits you. You should start with the camera on P (Program mode), jpg (RAW is more forgiving if you are comfortable with it), ISO 400, Evaluative metering and turn on all the focus points. Set the flash for full auto (ETTL) and for bounce flash off the ceiling. No doubt that many readers/posters will take exception to this recommendation but do it anyway. Take many shots this way -- close, far away, against a window light, etc -- then try some other settings and recommendations to see if you can beat this baseline.

During your practice session, be sure to take some pictures by pressing the shutter release button halfway, hesitating and then finishing the press. Notice that there are actually two flashes. The first one is a preflash that is used to determine the amount of actual flash. You can trigger the preflash yourself by pressing the Flash Exposure Lock button (has * mark). Learn to use this in tough lighting situations before the final composition.

Gordon
http://hornerbuck.com

Nothing basically wrong with this advice but jpg isn't necessary and why would you turn on all the focus points?

I would add that depending on your gear I would use the * for focus and let the ETTL II do its thing for the flash. Use FEC (Flash Exposure Compensation) to tweak the light from the flash.

[GordonSBuck]

Nothing basically wrong with this advice but jpg isn't necessary and why would you turn on all the focus points?

I would add that depending on your gear I would use the * for focus and let the ETTL II do its thing for the flash. Use FEC (Flash Exposure Compensation) to tweak the light from the flash.

As I implied, there are many, perhaps nearly an infinite, number of variations.

Personally, I virtually always use RAW mode and (see my last paragraph) only the center focus point. I was simply recommending a base procedure from which to build comparisons.

For practice/tests, the JPGs will always be processed the same way in-camera and will simplify and speed up the comparisons. Besides, some people never shoot in RAW anyway.

With regard to turning on all the focus points, following my own series of similar tests, it seemed to me that if the procedure is "compose the picture and press the shutter button" then (flash exposure) results were generally better if all focus points were turned on. My self-explanation is that the Canon flash exposure algorithm considers the pre-flash information from all available (that is, turned on) focus points. Surely it would have such a basis; that is, surely the actual flash is supposed to illuminate the subject that is in focus!

That said, if the picture taking process is to collect focus and exposure information separately before re-composing the picture then my recommendation is not suitable.

Based on my experience when attempting to get a decent photo of my grand-daughter running around, it is best to set all the focus points, point the flash at the ceiling and fire away. That may be the best "standard way for most indoor photos" for "grandadraymond" as well.

Gordon
http://hornerbuck.com

[Titus213]

Sorry, I have become a great proponent of taking charge of the equipment in flash photography (actually all photography). Using M mode on the camera and ETTL on the flash will let you expose the scene for ambient light, selecting your f-stop for desired DOF and your shutter speed (up to max sync speed for simplicity sake here) you can get better images and you are in control. I would not use all focus points as then the camera is trying to determine what you want a focused picture of, rather use the center focus point and focus on your subject.

Using the * button to focus is not an effort to gather separate information but rather an effort to focus on what you want, meter separately on what you want, and then get the picture you want. It's not for everyone and takes some getting use to.

In flash photography you are going to be concerned with shadows. A decent type of diffuser will help light the area forward while creating a downward light from the ceiling (assuming there is one within flash range and it's white). A simple index card attached to the flash will do this for you in many cases. Check out www.abetterbouncecard.com for some more advanced ideas on bounce and diffusion.