What do you mean, Compose and Recompose

[bbasra]

Hi

I read the words often compose and recompose often being mentioned.

Sorry, but what do these mean?

I feel so dum :confused:

TIA

[xarqi]

The typical context in which this occurs is where one initially positions the camera in order to have the appropriate portions of the scene considered by the selected autofocus and exposure areas, and then, by holding the shutter relese button half down (or using a button programmed to do this), locks those settings in place. The camera is then moved to recompose the scene and frame it properly within the viewfinder, whereupon the shutter release button is fully depressed and the exposure made.

[cdifoto]

"Focus and recompose" not "Compose and recompose." It's the technique of locking focus on the subject with the center focus point (since it's the strongest/most accurate on most EOS cameras) and then recomposing your scene as desired.

IMHO it's generally not good practice because when you recompose, you move, and you may pull out of the depth of field, ending up with a subject that's out of focus. It's better to lock focus using one of the focus points that falls on or near your subject.

[xarqi]

"Focus and recompose" not "Compose and recompose"

Ooops - you're right. I described "focus and recompose". Not sure what the other might be. My bad.

[cdifoto]

"Compose and recompose" can best be described as insanity. It's not a photographic technique. It's kind of like opening the fridge door, seeing there's nothing to eat, closing the door, then opening it back up as if something would have magically appeared.

[xarqi]

"Compose and recompose" can best be described as insanity. It's not a photographic technique. It's kind of like opening the fridge door, seeing there's nothing to eat, closing the door, then opening it back up as if something would have magically appeared.
:) I get a lot of that. I consider it wishful thinking.

"Hmmm - maybe behind the mayo..."

[bbasra]

okay. But then why would you want to recompose if this can result in Oof or soft/blurry images.

i am asking because my shots aren't sharp and maybe i'm using the wrong technique.

I point the camera onto the subject, use the centre focus point and focus by pressing the shutter button halfway until the focus locks on (green light) and then fully press the shutter button to take the picture.

[xarqi]

okay. But then why would you want to recompose if this can result in Oof or soft/blurry images.

i am asking because my shots aren't sharp and maybe i'm using the wrong technique.

I point the camera onto the subject, use the centre focus point and focus by pressing the shutter button halfway until the focus locks on (green light) and then fully press the shutter button to take the picture.
What you describe is the correct technique. It is a way of having the point that you wish to focus on not actually under any of the AF points when the exposure is made. I guess it's possible that with a very large aperture and correspondingly shallow depth of field, the slight rotation of the camera could move the image plane, but I'm not sure how much of a problem it is in practice. Different people, different views, I expect.

It could be that there are other causes of your focus problems. How about posting an example with the EXIF data intact, and describing what you think is wrong with it.

[bbasra]

Thanks.

I have already posted some pictures already and they are in this thread. I'm still learning though.

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=389980

[cdifoto]

okay. But then why would you want to recompose if this can result in Oof or soft/blurry images.

i am asking because my shots aren't sharp and maybe i'm using the wrong technique.

I point the camera onto the subject, use the centre focus point and focus by pressing the shutter button halfway until the focus locks on (green light) and then fully press the shutter button to take the picture.

That's fine if your subject is always dead center. But once you get out of boringly dead centering everything all the time, you'll see the difference.

And yes, focus-recompose is most troublesome when you're using wide apertures. If you're stopped way down and have a deep depth of field to cover up any user error, then it's fine.

[KIPAX]

Last night at a soccer match under floodlights i was using f2.8 as no flash allowed.

I was asked to do a two person head shoulders presentation shot on the fly. As I was doing sports I was set as center af only..

I pointed the camera to center on the faces and held focus. then moved to frame properly the two subjects... center point was then on body.. and shoot :)

at 2.8 (because of light) shooting at body would have made face out of focus.. shooting at face would not have composed corectly..

I didnt have the time or inclination to reset the AF point. Resseting the AF point is one way. recomposing is another. I am sure there are others. You choose the way your happy with.

[racingsafetyman]

I didnt have the time or inclination to reset the AF point. Resseting the AF point is one way. recomposing is another. I am sure there are others. You choose the way your happy with.

As the OP is using a 40D, this is not too far off topic...... Custom function III-3 / 1 allows the "joystick" to be used to select AF point while composing the picture, without pressing the AF point selection button first. And as I've never liked having to find this button while looking through the VF, this makes it soooo much easier.

[tonylong]

bbasra,

From looking at your photos, I would say that your difficulty is in trying to shoot in relatively low light and shooting by hand with a low shutter speed. Also, you are using a large aperture opening (low f-number), which helps you to get a faster shutter speed, but also only allows a narrow part of your picture to be in focus if you are close to your subject, which in these shots you are. Of the four shots you posted, three have points of pretty good focus, like the cat in the fourth picture, but because of the large aperture those points are very narrow, and because of the slow shutter speed even those points aren't as sharp as they could be.

Your shutter speed is not fast enough for hand-held shooting. I notice that your camera is using ISO 100, which is suitable for bright days and tripod shots, but for indoor hand-held shots will slow down the shutter speed considerably.

Since you used a flash on at least some of your pics, you have a bit of lattitude, but you may need to go to Manual Mode and set your shutter speed to 200 or 250, depending on your camera's synch speed, and set your ISO to 400, and then your aperture should be higher (this is why manual mode might be needed). I would suggest trying things out on your own, and getting a feel of how these things work together. Indoor photography is challenging, but with practice you get a feel of what will work the best.

Asking questions here helps, and I would also recommend finding a bookstore with a good photography section and buying some reading and reference books that illustrate exposure techniques for various scenarios. Build up a pile of books:)!

ony

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Several Canon cameras, too many lenses and stuff to list :)

If you want to see pics from a recent day trip to Mount St. Helens, an active volcano in Washington State, with a 5D, click here (http://www.pbase.com/tonylong/oct_13_07_st_helens)

Tony Long Photos on PBase (http://www.pbase.com/tonylong)

[Geo]

check it very nice link where explain ever thing about it.
http://visual-vacations.com/Photography/focus-recompose_sucks.htm

[MischiefK9s]

I practiced this a last month when I was trying to take pictures of Humming Birds. I knew which feeder they were using and which "flower" they liked best. So I focused on that with the * button, then moved the camera (I used a monopod) slightly to the left so that the center focus would be where the birds would be. When the Humming Birds returned, I didn't have to worry about trying to focus quickly on a small moving subject. For the most part, I was successfull (at least in my own mind :oops:).