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goatee
14th of November 2007 (Wed), 06:27
Hi guys,
umm, basically, you can see below a basic setup I did for a quick shoot in the studio at work (I'm a PM by trade),
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=220832&stc=1&d=1195042785
but I'm getting really bright sides of faces (also see below) - can you suggest what to do to reduce the amount of light on the side of my face? I was told it could be too much light spilling forward from the backdrop, but I moved forward, and made sure that it was only one stop brighter than me, so, any ideas?
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=220831&stc=1&d=1195042785

Az2Africa
14th of November 2007 (Wed), 07:13
You will want to keep one light to the side and the other slightly above and behind the camera. you will get a better result. I'm just stalling to bump your post until the real lighting guys jump in here.:D
You may want to pick up a good book on lighting as well.

bwolford
14th of November 2007 (Wed), 08:14
Since you have 2 lights and you want to white out the backdrop (I'm guessing), you're going to need to move one of those umbrellas to point onto the backdrop and only the backdrop.

Then feather the light of the main across the front of the subject and use a reflector for fill.

http://thewolfords.com/POTN/SampleSetup.jpg

I threw this together and it needs adjustment, but I'd start here and play.

goatee
14th of November 2007 (Wed), 08:24
Hi Brice - thanks for that. In fact, hidden by the boards, are two lights which I'm using to white out the background. I had a eureka moment though - is the lighting so weird because the brollies are too far apart?

Edit: I used Kevin Kertz's excellent layout tool to show my setup

poloman
14th of November 2007 (Wed), 10:02
IMO it is the angle of the brollies that is the problem. If you want flat lighting (it looks like you do) then angle them inward more. I would suggest raising one much higher and angling it in more and using the other pointed straight at the subject (you) near camera position. Turn the one near the camera position to 1/2 the power of the other (as a starting point). For a male subject (looks like you are) you may want even less power on this light. If you have a light meter, you can adjust your lighting ratio. This is a good idea as you can then duplicate desirable results later.

JBaz
14th of November 2007 (Wed), 12:45
IMO it is the angle of the brollies that is the problem. If you want flat lighting (it looks like you do) then angle them inward more. I would suggest raising one much higher and angling it in more and using the other pointed straight at the subject (you) near camera position. Turn the one near the camera position to 1/2 the power of the other (as a starting point). For a male subject (looks like you are) you may want even less power on this light. If you have a light meter, you can adjust your lighting ratio. This is a good idea as you can then duplicate desirable results later.
I would agree with that. Try that and that should help with exposing your face more. Are the brolly's a shoot through or reflected kind? Even though you can produce similar images, but have you considered getting one medium sized softbox? It'll give you a more even distribution of light over a certain area instead of umbrella's going in every which direction.

I honestly would use one main light with softbox slight left or right and above camera and have the subject hold a reflector to catch the light spill from the main strobe and fill in the shadows. Then I would use the 4th light and put it on a boom with a grid or snoot as a hair light. But, that's just me, there are tons of ways to do it, just practice and have fun. That's what it's all about.

bwolford
14th of November 2007 (Wed), 13:45
It just seems like the subject is forward in the light. I like feathering it across the front of them rather than toward the back. Looks like the brightness of the backdrop could impact this as well.

Brice

nwa2
14th of November 2007 (Wed), 14:10
You don't need so many lights. Two is plenty, it is even possible with one.

Two light set up.
First light behind the subject, pointed at the background, with a standard diffuser. Take care not to spill light onto the subject.
Second light with a brolly or softbox in front, above and to side of subject. Approximately half the power of light one.
Meter off the subject.
Position subject far enough away from backdrop to reduce light spill - this is a compromise depending upon the size of the studio.
Use those nice baffles to help prevent light spill onto the subject.
Use a reflector to provide fill lighting on subject.

one light set up ... http://www.swpp.co.uk/professional_imagemaker/one_light_portraits/one_light_portraits.htm

goatee
14th of November 2007 (Wed), 15:00
hmm, maybe I was trying to be too clever, although at the same time I was trying to keep it a little simple. Hmm, I'll start again with two lights, and a reflector, and take it from there.

steveathome
14th of November 2007 (Wed), 15:15
Do you have a light meter?
If not, it would be your next best purchase, especially when using four light sources.

If you do, we can go from there.

JBaz
14th of November 2007 (Wed), 15:20
What strobes do you have and do you know the power out or specs of them? Usually, you can accurately guess if you know a what the strobe will put out at a certain distance. Normally the manufacturer's will tell you in 10ft intervals of power out in f stops with barebulb and maybe a few light mods. Those are just rough estimates.

Taking test shots will help out as well, but nothing beats a light meter. May take a bit longer in setup time, but once you figure it out, your work flow, consistency and number of keepers increase significantly without spending tons of PP time. L358 is a great meter as most people use that, as do I.

goatee
15th of November 2007 (Thu), 03:37
Yup, I have a flashmeter (L308S). The strobes are 300W heads, I set up the back pair to burn out the backdrop by one stop (f/22), whilst I was lit for f/16, but the front lights were approximately the same power though, I should have done one f/16, and the fill f/22.

JBaz
15th of November 2007 (Thu), 08:28
Try metering the subject at f/8-f/11, no need to shoot so narrow with simple portraits.

goatee
15th of November 2007 (Thu), 09:36
Try metering the subject at f/8-f/11, no need to shoot so narrow with simple portraits.

I would, but the power packs were almost down to lowest power - I think next time I'll pull them right back anyway - I'll see how I get on.

Keep the suggestions coming :D.

Thanks!

JBaz
15th of November 2007 (Thu), 09:56
You can always put some ND gel filters over the strobes to reduce power, or add scrims or transparent fabric over the brolly's to reduce light even more. Using a softbox with an internal diffuser will soften the light and reduce the light as well. Also with a softbox, you can mask them off with black paper to reduce amount of light too. You can do the same with a brolly, it'll just be a little more difficult.

steveathome
15th of November 2007 (Thu), 13:07
For a basic portrait lighting set-up

Set your 308 to read in 1/3 stop increments, I believe this is the smallest setting available on the 308.

Set your main light approx 45º to one side, and looking down approx 45º

Meter this from the subject to-wards the light with the Lumisphere off of the sensor.

Personally, I choose an aperture I want to work with and set the lights to suit, I don't know if you have the same control over your strobes so you may have to set your aperture to suit your lights.

Find your most suitable aperture / power level combination.

Set your fill light as close to the lens plane as possible, without you being an obstruction, I go slightly the other side of the camera to the main light, and try to keep the light the same level as the lens. If you can get it behind you all the better.

Depending on what effect you want, lets say set your fill light 1 stop less powerful than the main light, again measuring from subject pointing to-wards the light source.

Final exposure, slide the Lumisphere over the sensor, measure both lights simultaneously from subject to-wards the lens. You should find that typically the exposure will be about 1/3 over your original (main light) measurement. You will now either have to close your aperture down accordingly or if you have fine control over your lights reduce them both equally to get back to your original chosen aperture.

The background lights should be measured from the background, with main and fill lights on. Aim for a correct exposure rather than overexposing a white background.

Obviously, others will give different methods, there is no real right or wrong way, as long as you obtain the results you want. You could alter the amount of fill, try a few test shots ignoring the background at first. Then you could experiment with the background once you have the main subject nailed. It is awkward with self portraits, as you cant place the lights whilst viewing the outcome.

Hope this helps, good luck. :)