Looking to get studio continuous lighting

[Jimmyhickey]

Well the holidays are right around the corner and I've been wanting to get into more studio shooting I just haven't had the funds to do so. Basically I am looking for a continuous light set that is fairly portable that I can use in a number of locations. I've been practicing with work lights and I really feel it is time to get some good quality lighting.
This is what I have been eyeing-
http://www.imagewest.tv/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=5
any other suggestions would be great.
I'd say my price range is around $300-400

Thanks:)

[TMR Design]

Hi Jimmy,

May I ask why you want continuous lighting? For what you have to spend you could get a nice little setup with strobe, reflectors, stands, etc, and get much better results.

[rhys]

Well the holidays are right around the corner and I've been wanting to get into more studio shooting I just haven't had the funds to do so. Basically I am looking for a continuous light set that is fairly portable that I can use in a number of locations. I've been practicing with work lights and I really feel it is time to get some good quality lighting.
This is what I have been eyeing-
http://www.imagewest.tv/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=5
any other suggestions would be great.
I'd say my price range is around $300-400

Thanks:)

OK. Let me run through with some costs for you as I have both a portable flash system and continuous lighting.

For both I recommend Impact's $99 background stand from B&H and some Amvona ebay muslins $30 apiece.

That gives us $130.

Next I recommend two 10' light stands from B&H by Impact at $30 each.

That gives us $160.

Now let's add two Amvona lamp assemblies at $25 each (including 4 bulbs each) - $50 total.

Then we'll add a pair of white reflecting umbrellas at $25 the pair.

Then we'll add an extension cable from Best Buy (don't know the cost of that).

Total tungsten cost is $235.

Flash....

Impact hotshoe brackets $15 x 2
Two flash units $ whatever

[jpon2]

I was looking at that kit too and I am baffled by all the choices. I am also interested in continous lighting because I want to learn about using light in a creative way and I want to see how the light changes as I am moving it in relationship to the model, camera and background.

[TMR Design]

I was looking at that kit too and I am baffled by all the choices. I am also interested in continous lighting because I want to learn about using light in a creative way and I want to see how the light changes as I am moving it in relationship to the model, camera and background.

That's what the modeling lights in strobes will do for you. They let you see exactly what your getting and show you the highlights, shadows, specular highlights, etc.

[prime80]

I'm interested in continuous lighting so I'm not limited by the 1/250 sync speed with strobes. I played with some a while back, and while I feel the quality of the strobe lighting is better, being able to shoot at whatever aperture I want for the DOF I want is pretty nice with continuous lighting. How do ya'll get around that with strobes? ND filters?

[rhys]

I'm interested in continuous lighting so I'm not limited by the 1/250 sync speed with strobes. I played with some a while back, and while I feel the quality of the strobe lighting is better, being able to shoot at whatever aperture I want for the DOF I want is pretty nice with continuous lighting. How do ya'll get around that with strobes? ND filters?

Variable power output on some strobes. Others - just move the strobes further back in order to reduce power or bounce them into different umbrellas.

[SkipD]

I'm interested in continuous lighting so I'm not limited by the 1/250 sync speed with strobes. I played with some a while back, and while I feel the quality of the strobe lighting is better, being able to shoot at whatever aperture I want for the DOF I want is pretty nice with continuous lighting. How do ya'll get around that with strobes? ND filters?Variable power output on some strobes. Others - just move the strobes further back in order to reduce power or bounce them into different umbrellas.Additionally, you can use neutral-density filters or even neutral-colored paper or other diffuser material over the strobes if you really want to open up your aperture and cannot dial the power down enough.

[Cyrus]

i hope it is cool where you are, if i tried constant i'd cook everyone and everything

[steveathome]

If you are only taking still life images, and the subject isn't likely to melt, continuous will be OK.

Otherwise, don't bother. It is far too expensive for what it is, not a lot more than a glorified lamp holder with an expensive 500W bulb.

I tried it with portraiture, and was having to shoot at ISO 1600 to get a decent aperture. My models had a good sun tan and lost weight also due to sweating so much.

Seriously, look into a good starter strobe outfit before you commit.

[rhys]

For still life, some halogen security lamps should work well enough or even ordinary 100w incandescent bulbs and a tripod.

[pakololo]

Advice that echoes throughout this forum is get 1 light and 1 reflector. Grow into it, grow out of it and add another light to your set up...

I'd get Alien bee's as they are good quality and very efficient.

Oh! yea..they are also reasonably priced :P

Try ebay for Amvona reflectors & stands

[ChopstickHero]

continuous lighting = hot working conditions! especially in a small place. all those lamps really generate a lot of heat.

[Cyrus]

yeah i meant hot as in uncomfortably so, rather than melting an object