help with the sekonic l358 meter (ambient)

[circa]

Alright, just got this thing and I'm having a bit of trouble measuring ambient. I've got the measuring the flash down pat, but I'm getting an error when doing the ambient. I'm in shutter priority and have it set to 250 and when I click to test and get a reading, I just get a flash "e.u."

What am I doing wrong here and how can I get accurate readings?

[Kafn8td]

According to the manual a steady "u" appears when you are below the display range. Turn some more lights on or slow the shutter down until you get a reading.

Here's a link to the manual in case you don't have one. http://www.sekonic.com/images/files/L-358.pdf

[::John::]

When you get that bit right, have you changed to the 'other' head on the meter so your readings will be more accurate?

[Curtis N]

When you get that bit right, have you changed to the 'other' head on the meter so your readings will be more accurate?The "other" head (the Lumigrid) is for reflected light readings. For incident readings of ambient light you still use the Lumisphere.

You can also use the Lumigrid to take reflected light readings with flash.

To the OP: In Tv mode, the meter won't display an aperture larger than f/1.0. Your options are the same as with your camera. You can
1) Try a slower shutter speed
2) Try a higher ISO
3) Switch to Av mode, select an aperture, and let it give you a shutter speed.

Option 3 is probably the quickest way to get a useable reading. With the reading displayed, you can simply rotate the wheel to shift the aperture or ISO and the meter will shift the shutter speed accordingly.

This page on Sekonic's website (http://sekonic.com/products/doc.asp?ID=4)has links to both the instruction manual and the quick guide.

[circa]

I'll be shooting sports with flash so I'm going to need to use my max 1/250 shutter speed. I'm not really sure how I'd work around this?

[Curtis N]

I'll be shooting sports with flash so I'm going to need to use my max 1/250 shutter speed. I'm not really sure how I'd work around this?Crank up the ISO to get a useable aperture at the shutter speed you want.

[circa]

Alright, I've taken 3 examples. The first is the settings that my meter read out, the second is 1 stop underexposed and the third is 2 stops underexposed (this is the setting my camera calls properly exposed).

My meter read out was

shutter: 1/8
f-stop: 2
ISO: 800

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a308/rdsfsu/IMG_7346.jpg

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a308/rdsfsu/IMG_7347.jpg

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a308/rdsfsu/IMG_7348.jpg

#1 looks blown out to me, #2 looks almost properly exposed and #3 looks underexposed. What do you think?

[Curtis N]

It's not blown out, except possibly some of the beveled edges on the door panels that happen to be catching the light just right (happens with semi-gloss paint). If that's a white door, then #1 is properly exposed, and #3 is an example of the limitation of reflected light metering (your camera's meter) and how useful an incident meter can be.

Try putting a black shirt, a gray shirt and a white shirt next to each other, fill the frame with them and take a shot. If it's properly exposed, you'll get three histogram spikes, one for each shirt (sort of).