Need Help With Custom Functions on Canon 1D Mark II

[PoloBARN]

I just upgraded from the Canon 1D to the Mark II. I am having some trouble getting the settings and custom functions set for fast action. I use a 500 mm 4.0 IS lens with the Mark II. I shoot equestrian polo games so the movement is often fast and constantly changing directions. I often have more than one subject in the frame (two or three horses/riders).

I am having trouble with overall image sharpness. Sometimes the focus is on the wrong subject in a group and it tends to jump to the players in the darker jerseys. This may have been the tracking when it was set to "fast" and it needed to be set to standard.

Other images are just soft and not sharp. I had the noise reduction setting "on" and was wondering if this makes the images softer. I still need to do some more tests with the different settings, but was also hoping to get some input from other photographers.

I use Al Servo with AV (aperture priority). I have been using ISO 400 and I have tried 200, but the polo ball is not sharp with the later. Custom Function 13 (number AF Points/Metering is set to 45/center AF point. Function 17: AF Point activation area is set to automatic expand (max. 13). I have tried the one point focus, but I seem to get better results with the auto expand (max. 13). Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[defordphoto]

Welcome to the forum!

I set my MKII to the Sports Illustrated settings on day one and have not looked back. See my website for examples.

Here is the SI link. You can download the settings to your computer, transfer them to a CF and then load them directly into the camera.

http://www.siphoto.com/?canon1DM2.inc

Also check here for an explanation of the Cfn's: http://www.naturescapes.net/072004/ej0704.htm

I don't have a Pfn link...Anyone else?

[PoloBARN]

Thanks for the links and info. on the settings. I'll give it a shot. Jim, what type of sports do you shoot? What type of lens do you use?

Thanks again for the help! - Lynn/PoloBARN

[CyberDyneSystems]

Polo.. I think you are on the right track tweeking CFN17.. but I don't know that you need the full 13 point expansion.

I switch from 7 point expansion to no expansion depending on subject size.. and I am shooting tiny birds.. it seems to me that with such large subjects.. you would be less likely to lose the subject you want do to it moving out of the center...

I'd go back and try no expansion or maybe 7 point expansion as well.

[defordphoto]

Thanks for the links and info. on the settings. I'll give it a shot. Jim, what type of sports do you shoot? What type of lens do you use?

Thanks again for the help! - Lynn/PoloBARN

I shoot motor and boat racing. ChampCar, ALMS, Trans-Am, USSBA. We use the MKII, 10D and a myriad of lenses varying from the 100-400, the 400 f/5.6, 70-200 f/2.8 IS for the most part. And then another myriad for the close stuff.

I have the MKII to provide a 90% or better in-focus rate. I do shoot TV and rarely, if ever AV. Speeds are so important and I let the camera pick the aperture.

[scottbergerphoto]

I find that for best focusing:
Cfn 4-1 : 45 point AF on * button
Cfn 18-2: Switches to registered AF Point (Center for me) only when depressing X button.
Cfn 13-1: Limits Manually Selectable AF points to 11 and links Spot Metering to active manually selected AF Point. No effect on automatically selected AF points.
Cfn 17-1: allows the camera to use additional AF points immediately around the manually selected one.
Regards,
Scott

[PoloBARN]

Thanks for all of the tips and information. I'm shooting again this weekend so I will try some of your setting suggestions and see how the results turn out. -Lynn/PoloBARN

[PoloBARN]

Hi Everyone,

I want to thank you all again for your previous input. I have used your advice and switched to the Sports Illustrator settings and changed to shoot using TV mode instead of Aperture Priority.

I went to France and shot some of the sharpest images. I was really happy with the results. When I returned to Calif. I shot another polo game and the results were poor again (not sharp/soft), yet my settings were the same as in France. The only difference is when I was in France it was overcast and I was shooting in TV mode (shutter speed) and shooting at 1000 or 1200. The aperture was set by the camera at around 6.3 for most of the best shots.

When I shot in California it was a sunny, bright day and I moved the shutter speed as fast as it would go 5000 sometimes less depending on what the camera indicated by flashing if the shutter was too fast for the available light. The Mark II was setting the aperture at 4.0 and 4.5 for many of the shots. The shots were soft and not near as sharp as those I took in France.

I am wondering if I should drop the shutter speed even though there is a lot of light or if the problem may be the camera setting the aperature incorrectly? If it is the later, is there a way to lock in the Aperture to 6.3 while shooting TV mode? Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.

I was also was shooting with IS off in California (on in France). I've been told by a few other Photographers that there is no need for IS when you are shooting 1000 or faster on shutter speeds.

[Lesmac]

Try this link

http://www.photoworkshop.com/canon/EOS_Digital.pdf

Les

http://lesmclean.photoblink.com/

[blackviolet]

I am wondering... is there a way to lock in the Aperture to 6.3 while shooting TV mode? if you want to lock the aperture, that's AV mode. i know some other shooters prefer TV - but for me, i lock the aperture somewhere between 6 and 8. i'll adjust the iso if i have to. in your case, if you want a smaller aperture in TV mode, slow the shutter down a bit. what iso are you shooting on the sunny days?

I was also was shooting with IS off in California (on in France). I've been told by a few other Photographers that there is no need for IS when you are shooting 1000 or faster on shutter speeds.i suppose it ultimately depends on the final length of your lens. the 1-over rule says 1/1000 should be fine @ 500mm on a 1.3 xfactor body. i didn't keep my 100-400 IS very long, so the only IS i own now is the 28-135 'will i be happy?' lens - so i'll defer that to the regular IS users here. i do, however, use a monopod with my sigma 50-500. even when i'm running up and down the field hand-holding, the monopod has a nice dampening effect to reduce vibration. i seldom get lens shake. i get mis-focus sometimes (user error...) :o