View Full Version : Shooting kids rock concert performance
cledwards
4th of December 2007 (Tue), 10:28
Super rookie here :p
I've been ask some young musican friends of mine for some pics of their upcoming concert coming up soon.
It will be dimly lit and have maybe some simple stage lighting (not as nice as in the link below). I did some for them awhile back with just my little Canon Powershot SD650 P&S, they liked them and used them on their Myspace so now they want me to take some better ones, since I have a nicer camera, for this gig.
I am using the XTI with the kit lens and so far only have the on camera flash so very basic set-up.
So with minmal skills with the new rig and some obvious limitations with my equipment, I thought maybe some could give me advise and hints on improving my success this effort.
Either way it's going to be a good learning experience and fun!
Here is the P&S pics referenced ealier, these lil guys are only 15 but they really rock hard!
http://curtislee.multiply.com/photos/album/43/Revelation_At_Headliners
bacchanal
4th of December 2007 (Tue), 10:57
You can use the kit lens and fire away with the pop-up flash, but your results probably won't be great. Most of us prefer to shoot available light, which requires a faster lens than the kit lens (in a dimly lit club). Something like the 50 f/1.8 (or it's big brother the 50 f/1.4) would be an ideal inexpensive starter lens. With a wide aperture lens you want to shoot in M or Av mode. High ISO (1600), wide aperture, and the fastest shutter speed you can get (at least 1.5 x focal length if possible) is generally the way to go in these situations. Using a fast lens requires a little practice, because the depth of field is very narrow and focusing in low light is not always easy (and the 50 f/1.8 is known to be a little inconsistent).
If you're going to stick with the kit lens and pop-up flash, try shooting in Av mode or M and meter for ambient light (maybe with some +/-EC if using Av mode). The idea is to set your exposure for the dark venue, and let the flash illuminate the subject, this way you get a little more balanced exposure that isn't all flash. Your exposure will be relatively long, but the flash will freeze the subject motion. This technique is also known as dragging the shutter.
goldboughtrue
4th of December 2007 (Tue), 12:39
I was at a hardcore concert awhile back and a guy was using a very bright bulb flash when shooting. It was annoying because there would be a huge flash of light in a dark room every 5 seconds.
cledwards
4th of December 2007 (Tue), 13:34
Thanks Bacchanal, I actually think I comprehended the majority of that lol...makes sense.
I have been playing around the house in AV and M mode with existing light at night and starting to understand the effects, I get a lot of motion if no careful at the slower speeds. I haven't really played with the flash much, interested in the freeze effect you mentioned. I'll try to play around some tonight and experiment. I sure appreciate the guidance and input all assistance welcomed!!
bacchanal
4th of December 2007 (Tue), 14:21
Here is a thread worth checking out. Most of the shot were with external flashes, but it will give you an idea of the technique.
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=287817&highlight=shutter+drag
cledwards
4th of December 2007 (Tue), 14:25
bacchanl, great sample thread thanks!
August 15 Photography
5th of December 2007 (Wed), 12:59
As stated above, I never use a flash for a concert. I find the stage lighting with all the colors you get from that to be more gratifying. If purchasing a lens is not in your budget, there are some places ( at least around here ) that you can rent a lens for a reasonable cost. Usually around $20 - $30. If you have two camera bodies is ideal, at least for me. I use a 70-200 2.8 and a 17-55 2.8 or 12-24 depending on the size of the venue and how wide the stage might be.
You can find some of the work I have done at www.august15photography.com There are two different concerts and types of shows to view. There are a couple concerts that are locked because there are children in them, so it requires a password for the parents to get in. Anyway the adults shows are available to view.
Good luck
cledwards
5th of December 2007 (Wed), 18:43
Thanks August, I don't think this effort will warrant renting or buying anything additional, but it should be a fun experience.
Great pics btw !!
PhotosGuy
5th of December 2007 (Wed), 20:03
Q & A: Dwight McCann (Event Photography) (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=81761)
cledwards
6th of December 2007 (Thu), 06:38
Q & A: Dwight McCann (Event Photography) (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=81761)
Wow great thread thanks!! Ton of great information !!
cledwards
22nd of December 2007 (Sat), 10:33
Well here they are, the lighting was terrible and I did them all hand held. But pretty happy with them being a complete rookie!:D
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff242/stratocurtster/Rebel%20XTI/Revelation/IMG_3004.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff242/stratocurtster/Rebel%20XTI/Revelation/IMG_3007.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff242/stratocurtster/Rebel%20XTI/Revelation/IMG_2990.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff242/stratocurtster/Rebel%20XTI/Revelation/IMG_3021.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff242/stratocurtster/Rebel%20XTI/Revelation/IMG_2955.jpg
Or you can view the whole series at http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/ff242/stratocurtster/Rebel%20XTI/Revelation/?albumview=slideshow
Thanks for the assist and looking!
PhotosGuy
22nd of December 2007 (Sat), 13:40
the lighting was terrible 1/15, f/1.8 @ ISO 1600! Yeah! That qualifies as terrible!
Sorry, but IMAGE POSTING RULES (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=74718) only allow pics 800 pixels or smaller. You can always just post a link to them, though.
cledwards
22nd of December 2007 (Sat), 15:46
1/15, f/1.8 @ ISO 1600! Yeah! That qualifies as terrible!
Sorry, but IMAGE POSTING RULES (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=74718) only allow pics 800 pixels or smaller. You can always just post a link to them, though.
Yeah I thought so, so for those conditions was there anything else I could have done to improve them? To my untrained eye they came out OK, and the boys loved them so that's all that matters, but any further suggestions would be welcomed.
I edited and added a link to the whole series in the above message.
Oh! Sorry I missed that forgive me, I thought the rules meant link then in via [url] from a hosted site as opposed to attaching them, now I understand you mean provide a link to them, sorry I'm slow but I catch on lol.......thanks for changing them to links! I'll be more aware now, again sorry for the misunderstanding and thanks for the forum!!
Nick_b
22nd of December 2007 (Sat), 16:27
I see you did decide to buy the 50mm 1.8! good stuff.
To be honest there isn't much you can do with that lighting. If it was me in those conditions with your gear I would shoot RAW, ISO 1600, F1.8, SS 1/80. They would come out underexposed but then you could adjust them in post process. The key would be to shoot in RAW because you have much more wiggle room with exposure compensation with RAW. I would shoot 1/80 because it would be impossible for me to hand hold 50mm at 1/15 not only that, you have to worry about subject movement too.
With the 50mm 1.8 in those lighting conditions you have to shoot a bunch of duplicates just to hope you get one in focus. That was my biggest gripe with that lens in concert conditions. They always seemed a little off but it is capable of some impressive stuff when the stars align.
Keep it up! concert photography is a blast!
cledwards
22nd of December 2007 (Sat), 16:57
Thanks Nick good info, just starting to play with RAW files and DPP. Yeah hand holding at those speeds w2as thoug
Your right it was fun and the boys really loved having some shots of them on stage doing their thing, so the fun factor was 100%. Now if we could just get the skill factor going...lol....thanks again for the guidance!
PhotosGuy
23rd of December 2007 (Sun), 10:13
If it was me in those conditions with your gear I would shoot RAW, ISO 1600, F1.8, SS 1/80. They would come out underexposed but then you could adjust them in post process. Maybe try some at ISO 3200, too. NNinja cleans them up fairly well.
Some Volly Ball Tournament Tests **56K Warning!** (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=394723)
cledwards
23rd of December 2007 (Sun), 11:26
Maybe try some at ISO 3200, too. NNinja cleans them up fairly well.
Some Volly Ball Tournament Tests **56K Warning!** (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=394723)
The XTI only goes to 1600
Nick_b
23rd of December 2007 (Sun), 14:44
The XTI only goes to 1600
True, but the 20D, 30D, 40D, 5D, all have virtual ISO 3200. They just apply some exposure trickery to get ISO 3200. Some claim to be able to shoot ISO 1600 RAW and achieve better results by pushing to ISO 3200 with software then what the internal processing of the camera can do.
I've never tried it though. It seems like too much work for me but if I didn't have the option of ISO 3200 I would shoot ISO 1600 in RAW and try to recover in post process manually.
cledwards
23rd of December 2007 (Sun), 15:20
I've never tried it though. It seems like too much work for me but if I didn't have the option of ISO 3200 I would shoot ISO 1600 in RAW and try to recover in post process manually.
Thanks Nick, I think the shooting RAW when shooting at 1600 makes sense, that will be my next effort.
Thanks for all the inputs folks! I can use all the help I can get.
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