Night Club Photography

[ChMike]

I take picture at night clubs. I dont know if any of your have done this but it is a little difficult to do.. The lights in a camera messing around with the shutter speed.

My question is that i am looking for a fast focusing lens about 28-100mm. Wide angle if possiable

I am using a Canon Digital Rebel.. I love the camera i am still learning its fetures.. I just need to have a faster focusing lens. I am using the stock lens now..

Top amount 250.00
All your suggestions are welcome.

[ChMike]

No one can help?

[Ballen Photo]

No one can help?

Mike, Simply put, the 50mm in either f/1.8, or f/1.4 is hard to beat for what you want.
-Bruce

[Ballen Photo]

Here's the link I was trying to find. Abel used the 50mm f/1.4, and I think the lens(As well as Abel) performed very well here. :shock:
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=40907&highlight=posts+abel
-Bruce

[ChMike]

No one can help?

Mike, Simply put, the 50mm in either f/1.8, or f/1.4 is hard to beat for what you want.
-Bruce

What does the f/1.8 mean..

i was looking at the CANON EF 22-55MM. think that will take good shots.. something fast and sharp

[Ballen Photo]

What does the f/1.8 mean..

i was looking at the CANON EF 22-55MM. think that will take good shots.. something fast and sharp

The F/1.8 is the maximum aperture that the lens will open up to An aperture of 1.8 will allow more light through it than an f/4. Generically speaking, the smaller numerically the number referring to aperture size, the larger the opening.
For a max of $250, you're not going to have a lot of choice in a lens suitable for "Night Club" photography. This type of environment usually has a low level of lighting, as well as being difficult at best. This low/difficult lighting will require a fast lens to cope. Either one of these 50mm lenses I mentioned will do the job.
-Bruce

[Cadenza]

Light levels are usually so low in nightclubs
that it is very challenging to get decent
pictures even if you're using with the 50 f1.4
and ISO 1600. Also, a tripod is usually too
disruptive in such an environment -- not to
mention a bit dangerous if the place is
crowded -- so you'll will have to handhold a lot.

You'll be better off getting a nice external
E-TTL flash. I got decent results once bouncing
the 420EX off the walls and ceiling. Experiment
a little, and adjust strength of flash output up or
down. I suppose you need to have the hack
installed for that on a 300D.

The ambient lights are often so weird in
nightclubs anyway, so the fact that there
may not be white surfaces for you to bounce
the light around will likely create an unreal
color cast. The results are often unexpected,
but the images produced can be quite fun.

[RockSlut]

I take it, from your post that you mean that you want to take candid or even posed "people" pictures in night clubs, rather than rock and roll photos.

I find that most of the time the only way I can get these type of shots is by using a flash, but I'm using a G3. I also use the autofocus assist lamp in these conditions which aids in these conditions (I don't know whether the 300D has this feature).

You'll find that you most likely need to learn how to get the most out of your auto-focus for shooting in these conditions. I'd recommend doing a search here because there is much helpful discussion on that topic.

In terms of lenses, the basic rule of thumb is get lenses with larger apetures. f1.8 is a "large apeture". Larger apertures mean that you can shoot with faster shutterspeeds. Unfortunately, you will find that the lenses with larger apetures (which get called "faster" lenses) are generally more expensive. One exception to this rule is the 50mm f/1.8 (at around US$75) and to a lesser extent is the f1.4 (@ US$310). The downside to this is the fact that these are not zoom lenses so you'll have to change your composition by moving yourself and the camera :)

You will find that larger the aperture (ie the smaller the f number), the more light will get to your sensor, which will in turn mean that your autofocus will be faster. The trade-off will be the the depth of field that you will get, as large apeture = small depth of field.

Unfortunately I don't know anything of the EF 22-55mm.

I hope this information is of some assistance.

[HKdom]

I'm assuming that since you mentioned the lights messing around with your shutter speed, you are not using a flash. If flash photography produces a result / look you are happy with then I would suggest an external flash since the focus assist beam it projects helps with focusing in low light situations as well as provide the light you need for that slow lens of yours.

I try to avoid using flash in clubs because to me they destroy the atmosphere and draw unnecessary attention to me. Also, have you ever seen a girl you thought was hot until the lights came on? :lol: . If circumstance permits I prefer available light!

Like others have mentioned, I also think the 50mm 1.4 or 1.8 is a great buy. If you’re shooting available light I would just forget about auto focus and use manual focus instead. Shooting at a higher ISO setting like 800 - 1600 will likely be necessary but can produce exceptional results if done correctly.

[karusel]

How about 50 f/1.0? It's on my to-get list, well, that or the 85 f/1.2...

As I understand 1.0 is one and a half stop larger aperture than 1.8, which would allow you to use ISO 200 instead of 1600, or ISO 400 and a higher shutter speed. Comfy. 8)

[topeju]

As I understand 1.0 is one and a half stop larger aperture than 1.8, which would allow you to use ISO 200 instead of 1600, or ISO 400 and a higher shutter speed. Comfy. 8)

I'm afraid not. It is 3 stops from 1600 to 200, and 2 stops from 1600 to 400.

(Quick edit for clarity: it is about 1,75 stops from f/1.0 to f/1.8. With "I'm afraid not", I referred to the ability to use ISO 200 instead of 1600.)

[paul79uf]

Here's another vote for an external flash. Plus I'd add a diffuser cap and maybe a white bounce card. This way you avoid using harsh direct light.

[Big WIll]

External flash is a must for posed shots in night clubs, i use 17-40mm F4 with a 580ex! This is on a 1.6x however! The wider the better, trust me.

For band/dj shots, you need something like a f1.8 or f2.8 in good light! :)

[jorl]

bocaj aka jacob should be all over this question... he'd be the one to ask, i think he does a lot of nightclub shooting

[Denny G]

Does the date matter?

The original question was three years ago.

The op has not been on this forum since Sept 2004

[jorl]

haha, Old threads are popping up all over the place how stupid

[Big WIll]

I never look at the date, i wouldnt of posted if i knew! Why do they keep coming back??

[René Damkot]

Probabely because someone clicked one of the "Similar Threads" at the bottom of the page, without minding the date ;)

[jorl]

I never look at the date, i wouldnt of posted if i knew! Why do they keep coming back??

I wouldnt have either,

[form]

I actually did what I thought was pretty good with a Tamron 28-75 at f/3.5 and ISO400 to ISO800 recently when shooting a band outdoors in the evening/night:

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=391495

[gwilli]

Sorry to re-open this thread, I'm looking to buy the 10 - 22mm Canon Wide angle lens for the same purpose, has any one used this and what do they think of the results or does any one have any sample pics?

Thanks
Gav

[StylusFunk]

I do a lot of nightclub photography. I recomend using a flash on 2nd Curtain Sync mode. Make sure your camera is on manual too.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3179/2751180939_27995777eb.jpg http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3182/2752015314_cded6d60b4.jpg

This way, you are able to use a long shutter speed (.5 or even 1 sec) and still get crisp shots along with lots of ambient light. 2nd curtain sync fires the flash at the end of the shot, not the beginning. This freezes the action while still letting in enough colored club lighting to make it look great. This technique only works well for close ups like couples or a shot of the DJ, if you're too far away the flash won't be powerful enough to freeze the action well.

As for lenses, I like 2.8 zooms.

[elysium]

Tamron 17-50 2.8 for your budget but you will need an external flash to nail shots. I would not even bother without one.

[René Damkot]

I do a lot of nightclub photography. I recomend using a flash on 2nd Curtain Sync mode. Make sure your camera is on manual too.

This way, you are able to use a long shutter speed (.5 or even 1 sec) and still get crisp shots along with lots of ambient light. 2nd curtain sync fires the flash at the end of the shot, not the beginning. This freezes the action while still letting in enough colored club lighting to make it look great.

First or second curtain doesn't make a lick of difference exposure wise.
It yust throws off your timing big time, you run a higher risk at closed eyes (because preflash and flash are further apart), or people turning away, since they think the preflash was the photo being taken.

I never use second curtain, unless the motion in the shot calls for it (so: not in nightclub shots, where motion is erratic)

[Qwest905]

how about stick with what you have and just get a flash...

[StylusFunk]

It yust throws off your timing big time, you run a higher risk at closed eyes (because preflash and flash are further apart), or people turning away, since they think the preflash was the photo being taken.

Actually, no pre-flash with your flash set to Manual too. So people stay still until the flash goes off. In 1st curtain, the flash goes off then your subjects run away while the shutter is still open, which can turn out bad.

Timing is hard in the beginning, but you get used to it after a while. :)

I use pretty long shutter speeds though. With shorter ones, 2nd curtain is not helpful.

[René Damkot]

Actually, no pre-flash with your flash set to Manual too. So people stay still until the flash goes off

True.

Still throws off the timing though, but when using manual flash, the second bit is a good argument ;)

You use manual flash often? Bounced or modifier on the flash? Set output by experience?

[nickLee123]

i've done clubs for a couple months now. i'm using 400d, 10-22 and 430ex everything on manual. on camera settings right now are iso 400, f4.5, 1/5-1/2 seconds depending. flash is at either 1/2 or 1/4 power

for a night club 50mm will severely limit you space wise, the 10-22 is perfect for roaming around and taking pictures in close quarters. never saw a need for second curtain sync, most people will keep posing till you lower your camera. a f2.8 is tempting but any group shots and you'll have people out of focus.

[luant16]

35mm 2.0

[René Damkot]

35mm 2.0

... isn't wide enough, even on FF IMO.
Unless you want to do portrait like stuff instead of group shots.

[ArtChick]

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j174/digrigioli/lug5.jpg

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j174/digrigioli/hot2.jpg

17-50mm f/2.8. I see everyone on these forums agrees lol. gives enough room to take group shots in crowded spaces without needed to back up much for space and a little zoom is nice. Its the most ideal lens to have. I like to experiment with other lenses but I always need this one on hand. Its a great staple.

[EveryMilesAMemory]

We do a ton of club photography and just use a simple set-up of a 5D with a 24-70 f/2.8 I always use rear curtain sync on a 430ex with a Stoffen.

I usually just set it on the P and let the flash do the work of adjusting the controls at all times. I know, but hey, I'm lazy...LOL

Here is a Gallery from Halloween (http://stld.smugmug.com/gallery/6373917_5uupK#407300273_HF5jB), where we had to hit many of the local clubs for their costume parties....but be warned, many of the images arent for people under 18:oops:

I dont like the fixed 50mm or 85mm as I think it limits the range too much. Plus, I like to be able tozoom in to create some bookah

[The Fox]

20mm F2.8 is a good focal length on a crop. I have only done it a few times, and I find that the 50mm F1.8 wide open is rather good when you use a flash to stop the action. Shoot at 800-1600 ISO, F1.8-2.5, 1/60th-1/125th depending on how much background you want. Just shoot away.
Nick

[nuffi]

I need to know.... What would the results be if you guys used a lense mounted flash like the MT-24EX twin flash things...?

[fatdeeman]

I see a lot of people in clubs using the flash head at a 45 degree angle upwards, I'm not sure if there is some advantage to this, I've always wondered about it.

They get much too close to the subject to be bouncing and the ceiling is usually far too high anyway (in some cases an old church!) so I'm not sure what the aim is, is anyone familiar with this method?

[BlueTsunami]

Not exactly a night club but it was a weird situation to shoot in...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3043/3014681470_127103a11b_o.jpg
Body = Rebel XT
Shutter Speed = 1/30 second
Lens F-Number/F-Stop = F2.8
ISO Speed Ratings = 1600
Exposing for the lights and letting the people become (nearly) silhouettes could be a cool route.

[fourv2]

i shoot club shots - 17-70 f2.8-4.5 sigma / and full crowd shots with a 10-20 sigma on a rebel xt - usually iso1600 f2.8 - 1/60th - to 1/80 - very little adjusting

where as when i use my 40d.. i adjust crazily and erratically... (so i just stick to the rebel for club shots)

[EveryMilesAMemory]

I see a lot of people in clubs using the flash head at a 45 degree angle upwards, I'm not sure if there is some advantage to this, I've always wondered about it.

They get much too close to the subject to be bouncing and the ceiling is usually far too high anyway (in some cases an old church!) so I'm not sure what the aim is, is anyone familiar with this method?

I almost always have the flash pointed at a 45 degree angle.

Most of the time if it's pointed straight at the subject, its too strong and I dont like the results. Of course, this only helps if you have a stoffen or some other form of diffuser on the flash head.

I always use the stoffen, but was thinking about getting one of the Gary Fong light diffusers after talking with another photographer at a club who was covering the same event we were. We both took identical shots and his light was much nicer than mine was with his Gary Fong attachment.

We both had 30D's and 430ex's, so it was cool to compare the two and see the results.

[StylusFunk]

I've been thinking of switching my Stofen to a Gary Fong too. I like the results I get just using my bounce card more then the Stofen, but the bounce card only works well when taking photos of one subject, not a group of people.

I went wireless with my flash too, which is producing some cool shots.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3527/3205082674_d77e66d4c4.jpg

[RIgnacio]

Hey Stylus Funk nice shots..I just picked up the 17-55mm IS over the weekend. Have you ever used it for nightclub photography?

[michaelhernsin]

some photos from saturday

http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/1917/samplesb.jpg
if you knew what i used you would be amazed =]

[ChadAndreo]

what did u use?

[drizzank]

i bet he used f3-f5.6, iso 600-1600, auto white balance, and a 45 degree flash with some makeshift diffuser. doesnt seem to amazing to me

[ChadAndreo]

How things change in a almost two years. What was I thinking. lol

[alpharon]

Wow, zombie thread...