Eureka! Reason for soft indoor shots!

[n1as]

I've been struggling to get sharp indoor basketball shots this year. My gear is all new (40D, 24-70 f/2.8L or 85 f/1.8 USM) and should be better than my old Nikon D40 isn't happening.

So I did a test and boy did I discover something.

I shot pics of the back of my car in daylight. ISO 200, 1/500, 1/250 and 1/125 with apertures between f/2.8 and 11. I did 6 shots at each setting, 2 while I held very steady and squeezed the button, 2 while I just snapped the shutter button and 2 while I sort of jerked my hand as I shot. The idea was to see if maybe I was blurring my pics with my shooting technique.

What I found was surprising to me. I expected (and got) blurred shots with the poor techniques at 1/125, but even at 1/500, I got blurred shots with a finger snap. All of my "hand jerk" pics were blurry.

So, now I know why so many of my action pics are blurry. I'M MOVING THE CAMERA!

I didn't think it matter at 1/250 or 1/500 but apparently it matters A LOT!

- Keith -

[scot079]

I think that you'd be a good candidate for IS. If your budget allows, rent or buy the 70-200 2.8 IS. She's a gem @ 2.8 and it has the second IS mode for panning. If no, try using a monopod or tripod.

[lauderdalems]

Guess maybe I need to try a monopod this afternoon and see if it help me.

[n1as]

I think that you'd be a good candidate for IS.

Actually, I'm thinking not. When shooting Basketball, following the action means moving at upward angles. IS may or may not help. I just need to learn to do a proper "trigger pull". If I can do it with my pellet rifle, I can do it with my camera! Practice and learning proper technique should be all I need.

I'm just real happy to finally know that the blurry images I'm getting are NOT an issue with the lens or body but is something much simpler - me!

Years ago I shot sports at 1/125 and had to be careful about camera shake. These days, with better cameras I'm shooting at 1/250 or 1/500 indoors and thinking that I no longer have to be careful since these shutter speeds will freeze the action. So imagine my shock when I saw that I got blurry images even at 1/500.

I can't wait for next Tuesday when the local HS team has another home game!

- Keith -

[scot079]

Actually, I'm thinking not. When shooting Basketball, following the action means moving at upward angles. IS may or may not help. I just need to learn to do a proper "trigger pull". If I can do it with my pellet rifle, I can do it with my camera! Practice and learning proper technique should be all I need.

I'm just real happy to finally know that the blurry images I'm getting are NOT an issue with the lens or body but is something much simpler - me!

Years ago I shot sports at 1/125 and had to be careful about camera shake. These days, with better cameras I'm shooting at 1/250 or 1/500 indoors and thinking that I no longer have to be careful since these shutter speeds will freeze the action. So imagine my shock when I saw that I got blurry images even at 1/500.

I can't wait for next Tuesday when the local HS team has another home game!

- Keith -

If you're seeing camera shake @ 1/500, then yes you need guidance. If it's some sort of issue that can't be fixed, then you can always rely on technology.

[lauderdalems]

My problem was not camera shakes, but camera movement. Being next to the baseline the action moves faster than I can keep up with. Even though I have IS, I tried a monopod and it actually helped, while at the same time did make it hard to follow the action. Then again, the gym is 45 years old and seems to have original lights.

[n1as]

If you're seeing camera shake @ 1/500, then yes you need guidance. If it's some sort of issue that can't be fixed, then you can always rely on technology.

Yes, like Lauderdalems, my issue is not necessarily camera "shake" as it is motion. I can hold still shots as well as the next person. The problem is when the players are moving fast and I'm trying to keep them properly framed in an 85mm (or 50mm for that matter) lens, I'm often not smooth and gentle with the shutter button and I'm blurring the photo as I jerk the trigger.

- Keith -

[scot079]

Which is why I'm suggesting the 70-200 2.8 IS, which has a special IS mode for panning, or maybe the 100-400. But that lens is much slower.