I got an idea for a photo but do not know how to go about it

[Blackey Cole]

Hey I thought I would ask the pool of knowledge here what the best way to pull off a great shot is.

I also thought that this thread could be used to keep a ongoing list of questions on how to light to get the desired result and be used for a source of how to light ideas and solutions.

Well here is the first idea:

Desired effect a night time shot of a car(red in color) and show the lights of the car as in motion across the photo up to the point that the front of the car is located on the right side of the image. I want the car to be in focus and semi sharp with a light trial of the light moving from the left edge of the image to the point where the car is infocus.

Three lighting zones(for a lack of a better word)

the Background - desired effect is total black

the car - sharp and in focus

the lights - motion across the image

can this be done in one shot without much PS post work?

[30DShooter]

Yea. Go out at night and take a pic of a moving car. Use your flash and set the curtain sync. It's either front or back curtain sync that will give that effect.

[shutterfiend]

2nd curtain sync - custom function. Shutter speed 1/15. If you want dark background stop down to f/5.6 or f/8 and move close to the car/subject (don't get run over).

[Curtis N]

The required shutter speed will depend on how long you want the light trails to be, and how fast the car is moving. You'll need to do some calculating, or experimenting, or both.

It will be difficult to keep the background totally black with a long shutter duration. You'll need to compensate with low ISO and a relatively small aperture in very dark conditions. You'll need to figure that out.

Then you'll need to figure out if you have enough flash power to get the distance you need at that aperture. The flash unit's distance scale will help you here. Optical slaves could be used to get additional light and angles.

Second curtain sync will be required, unless the car is travelling in reverse. You'll need to prefocus and have the car travel a predetermined course.

This might require more than one take.
;)

[Blackey Cole]

I have a 300D how would I set the second curtian speed? Eveything I understand. and is perty much what I expected. Remote flash not a problem. It may have to wait until next month when I receive my new 580ex II and a used 40D that I am getting.

[Curtis N]

You'll need a dedicated flash unit that has a 2nd curtain function. The 580EX II has it.

But like I mentioned, you could use 1st curtain and just drive the car backwards. The effect will be the same.

[Blackey Cole]

Hadn't thought about that one! I think if I can get this to work it will be an incredable shot. Even if I have to layer two shots together in Photoshop it will look great.

[Benji]

(Copy), "with a light trial of the light moving from the left edge of the image to the point where the car is in focus."

The car will have to back into the scene if you want streaks to run left to right. Why not add them later in Photoshop?

Ben

[Blackey Cole]

I am wanting the challenge of trying to visualize somethign and then think it out and the shoot it then spend the least amount of time in.

[ben_r_]

(Copy), "with a light trial of the light moving from the left edge of the image to the point where the car is in focus."

The car will have to back into the scene if you want streaks to run left to right. Why not add them later in Photoshop?

Ben

Personally I think its a lot cooler and more fun to take a shot that looks awesome without ever using photoshop to make it "better". I think its a lot more impressive to say you didnt alter the picture in anyway and thats how you took it. If he sets it up right and practices a few times it will look really good all by itself.

[Blackey Cole]

Ben, that was my idea. Now here is one thing I haven't figured out why we would have to do it. Car traveling left to right then why would you have to back the car across in front of the camera?

[Curtis N]

Ben, that was my idea. Now here is one thing I haven't figured out why we would have to do it. Car traveling left to right then why would you have to back the car across in front of the camera?You don't need the car to go backwards, as long as you use second curtain sync.

[Strayz]

Thanks Curtis, I was thinking that when the OP was discribing what he wanted to do.

to explain it in easy to understand terms is, this is second sutter sync.

1. the shutter opens gets a little light. (the car moving forward lights on)
2. after the shutter has been open for a short time the Flash fires.
3. When the set amount of light is reached the shutter closes.

you will need to look in your manual (R.T.Friendly.M.) for your camera and check what settings you will need to 2nd curtain sync. It is avlabile in the Xt, XTi and most of the newer/higher end cameras.

I will see if I can dig around here and find a shot that has an example of both. (probably fire dancers)

[Curtis N]

to explain it in easy to understand terms is, this is second sutter sync.
1. the shutter opens gets a little light. (the car moving forward lights on)
2. after the shutter has been open for a short time the Flash fires.
3. When the set amount of light is reached the shutter closes.
Not exactly.
The flash fires just before the second curtain starts to close, basically at the end of the ambient exposure, regardless of shutter speed.

If you use bulb mode with second curtain sync, the flash won't fire until you release the shutter button.

[MrScott]

I'd go with the first curtain flash since that way you know exactly where the car is going to "start" from and the driver knows when to throw it into reverse. If you use the second curtain, the driver would go in the normal direction, but it would be difficult to get the 2nd curtain flash to go off with the car in the exact same spot/focus/framing that you'd want. Try both... Or use bulb like Curtis recommended if you've got a good reaction, but that 300D has a crazy shutter lag, so when you think your closing the shutter, the car may be a few feet past your mark.

Also, don't forget the "zoom" ring when messing around with lights or panning the camera and leaving the car still. Think "motortrend" TV show intro here.

Try a bleach burnout in a light controlled parking garage to really knock this one out of the park...Think about watering down the whole area and leveling the camera with what ever incline you have in the garage rather than leveling to the horizon.

[dragulaz]

I want the car to be in focus and semi sharp with a light trial of the light moving from the left edge of the image to the point where the car is infocus.



Do you really want the trail of light to be moving from the left side of the image to the right where the car is in focus? That would mean a light "trail" in front of the car, which I believe would require first curtain sync. Second curtain sync will leave a light trail behind the car (right side of image, trailing the car). Am I misunderstanding?

[Curtis N]

Do you really want the trail of light to be moving from the left side of the image to the right where the car is in focus?The trail of light won't be "moving". It will just be there. The important part is to get it behind the car, not in front of it.

With first curtain sync, the flash will fire at the beginning of the exposure to freeze the subject, then the light trail will be created throughout the exposure. So if the car is moving forward the light trail will appear to be in front of the car.

If the car is moving forward and you want the light trail behind the subject frozen with flash, then second curtain sync will be required.

A good example of the use of second curtain sync is here:
http://web.canon.jp/imaging/flashwork/functions/curtain/index.html

[dragulaz]

The trail of light won't be "moving". It will just be there. The important part is to get it behind the car, not in front of it.

With first curtain sync, the flash will fire at the beginning of the exposure to freeze the subject, then the light trail will be created throughout the exposure. So if the car is moving forward the light trail will appear to be in front of the car.

If the car is moving forward and you want the light trail behind the subject frozen with flash, then second curtain sync will be required.

A good example of the use of second curtain sync is here:
http://web.canon.jp/imaging/flashwork/functions/curtain/index.html

Exactly what I was trying to say. "Moving" was admittedly a poor choice of words, and I was a bit confused by the OP's description of what he wanted. I think I understand that he intended the trail to actually be "trailing".

I have taken many shots like this at various night time American Le Mans races with the 580 exII...sometimes from a stationary position to get a light trail, other times I pan with a slower shutter to get nice blur in the wheels and background with no light trail (an example of the latter below). Both can give quite pleasing/interesting results and do a good job of showing motion.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b222/applegbt/Racing/LagunaSeca2007-199-1.jpg

[Strayz]

Brett, this is panning on the subject, what I beleave the OP is asking about is if you mount the Camera on a tripod and get the car (lights)blurry and hit the flash to freeze the Car in action.

Curtis thanks for the correction, I was kinda close. :)

[Blackey Cole]

Yes Curtis has the idea right but if nothing else I need to wait until I get a better camera which is on hold right now for me to buy the first of Jan. a used 40D with about 1200actuations.