Is it really this hard to get sharp images?

[flashmaster123]

Anyone know the best way to get sharp images with the 10d??? I have been stuggling for 2 weeks now. I went digital to save time. Is it possable to shoot a sharp image in the Camera with out any post processing? I can't belive I used to shoot perfectly exposed and focused transparencies and I now I can't capture a decent jpeg? Will L lenses really help? Or is just the limitation of Digital?

[ohenry]

Assuming that you're doing everything that you can do to capture sharp images (tripod, proper exposure, focus, etc), you can boost your parameters (see your manual) in the custom settings to increase saturation and sharpness.

L lenses are better than most consumer lenses, but there are plenty of consumer lenses that should give you sharp pictures, particularly when stopped down.

[aam1234]

I had the same problem with the rebel at first, but after correcting the way I shoot, things went well. I'm refering to slow shutter speed and/or no support.

[toddb]

The best way to get help quickly is to post a sample and explain the shot including picture data, distance, environment, and anything else that might be important. After shooting with a DSLR camera now for about a year, there are many things I've discovered and without needing to change gear, I've been able to get sharper more consistent images. But first, you need to help us help you by helping us help. For cheaper lens, you might just try shooting with like a F8 aperture and see if that does it for you. I think that is one of the biggest things about having an L lens, I've herd that they are sharper through out the aperture range.

Check this out:
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=38424&highlight=

[ron chappel]

"without post proccessing"

Boost the sharpness settings to the max and see what it looks like :)

[davidwegs]

Take a ruler and set it @ 45 degrees to the ground (say leaning on a chair leg or desk) then stand over it. Open your aperture all the way and shoot for the 6 (or middle number). Now check the focus is on the 6 not the 4 or 8.

Starting here will establish if you have front /rear focusing issues. If you hit the 6 (cosen number) the best of all, then refer to above. If not try one more lens. If the results are consistent with two lenses then your camera is the culprit. If it misses it will need to be sent to Canon for calibration. Assuming its under warranty you only foot the shipping cost. If you got it at a high street retail store you could go through them and they get to pay the shipping (although this takes longer).

Hope thats a good starting point.

[Andy_T]

I would really suggest to not do the front/back focusing test as a first step ... and to do it in a more controlled manner.

There have been some cameras with a front/back focusing problem a long time ago (when the 10D was brought to the market, actually). The problem was addressed by Canon and most likely quality tests were improved, to that now, there are virtually no new cameras with a focus problem.

However, very soon after the ruckus had started in the internet boards, nearly everybody who didn't manage to get a sharp picture, blamed it on the camera and hysterically asked Canon to check/repair/replace it. Needless to say that Canon determined in 95% of the requests, that it was not the fault of the camera...

As to the fornt/back focus test:

You have no way to make sure that the focus point selected by the camera really was the 6 ... so given the tenor of the original post, I'm seriously concerned that it will increase confusion, rather then clear it up. :cry:

If you really want to do it, take a look at this thread: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=32115&highlight=front+focusing

Instead, I would rather suggest to post some of your pictures here with EXIF data, as was already proposed.

Best regards,
Andy

[DaveG]

Anyone know the best way to get sharp images with the 10d??? I have been stuggling for 2 weeks now. I went digital to save time. Is it possable to shoot a sharp image in the Camera with out any post processing? I can't belive I used to shoot perfectly exposed and focused transparencies and I now I can't capture a decent jpeg? Will L lenses really help? Or is just the limitation of Digital?

I think that maybe one of the things that is happening is that you are seeing the image at 100% on your computer screen and you're also seeing unsharpness. I also think that if you took your previously "sharp" transparencies and enlarged them to 100%, you see remarkably similar results.

Now there could be some AF issues with the 10D, and that is a possibility. Sometimes having all of the focusing rectagles enabled messes up the 10D's mind and it doesn't know where to focus. If I'm shooting a series of portraits I usualy enable the top, or second from top, rectagle. Left to it's own devices the camera may well choose to focus on the backdrop. This way the camera is focusing on their eyes or forehead.

More likely it is a camera support and subject movement problem. For years I'd hear from friends about how their XXX lens "just wasn't sharp" and then they were shocked to find out how good it was when they used a tripod. Do some tests and use middle apertures of whatever lens you choose. This way you will see what's possible and eliminate the possibility that your AF is off.

As for saving time in digital, no one has ever claimed that. When I was at university (thousands of years ago) I'd write a paper and then have it typed (.25 a page as I remember). Then I'd get it back, review it for typos, make corrections in pencil and pass it in. But if I bought and used a word processor (remember WordStar anyone?), I was assured it would "save time".

It just didn't happen. First I, not a typist, typed the paper. Then I would revise it. "Hmm, this makes more sense if I move that paragraph to here. ..." So you do this and that, and keep doing it until you pass the bloody thing in. So there was no time saved at all. But what there was was a much better paper. No stupid spelling mistakes and better clarity in the presentation. The prof just got a better product.

That's what digital is all about. You will produce a better product. I use the 10D with RAW. I process every shot with Photoshop CS and the integrated Camera RAW. I've shut off all in-camera sharpening and use "60" for post production sharpening. A digital image because of the anti-aliasing filter will give you LESS sharpness than the lens will make so you MUST use some type of sharpening later. With RAW and the ability to fix one shot and then use "previous image" makes this process go fairly quickly. But it's not out of the box.

[ejwebb]

How are you comparing your slide images to the 10D images?

On the monitor - after scanning slides? What are the sharpness settings, etc. in the scanning software? It may be adjusting for you.

Prints? Again, scan software may be adjusting your slides. Most digital camera photos require some sharpening for printing.

JPEG monitor or print to slide itself? Not a fair comparison due to inherent differences in formats.

Digital cameras are designed to allow the user to sharpen the images as he sees fit, understanding that the amount of sharpening and when in the process it is applied can vary depending on the use of the image. Additionally, you can use selective shaprening to enhance your images. Once you get a good handle on how to apply it to your images you will appreciate the flexibility and not mind the few seconds it takes to apply it.

Or you could actually have a problem with focusing in your camera/lenses in which case you have larger issues. :lol:

I hope you get this sorted out soon.

[karusel]

I was giving this some thought...

A lens at 400mm and 10D sensor gives 635mm, with a horizontal angle of view of 3°15', at the distance of 20 meters the horizontal FOV is 1.11 meters.

Now for the interesting part: those 1.11 meters (or 1110 mm) are distributed to 3072 CMOS photosites, so 1 single milimeter finds its place on 2.77 photosites. As you can very nicely see, if you have an object that is exactly 2.77mm wide it could never ever be 100% sharp, not even with a $1,000.000L lens if such lens existed. But let's say this is negligible. What isn't is also a bit obvious - camera shake. Even a super minor movement of a few 'target' milimeters (reminder: 635mm* lens, 20meters, FOV 1110mm) results in x2.77 smeared pixels; you move the FOV for 3mm (this would happen if you moved the lens so that you move/shake the lens at the speed of 1 FOV per second and shutter time of 1/370 (if shutter time were 1/500 then under same conditions FOV would move 2mm)), you get more than 8 pixels where there should be only three. As the third factor, the lens is not perfect either, it has limited resolution. You add those three factors together and you see how important a steady hand is. The rule of thumb for the shutter speed you surely know: 'one over the focal length' - it's true, but it doesn't tell how steady your hand should be; nor does it say: this way you get 100% sharp images! - this way you get acceptable images, not handmade-japanese-katana-from-the-11-century sharp images. :D

I hope someone can make some sense out of this... and perchance put it simpler... :?

Also, I'm not sure what the speed of normal handheld camera shake is, but I will measure it as soon as I have time for it. I will also measure how much the IS really compensates. And yes, it is not that difficult to measure, it just takes some time.