Night Club Photography Tips and Techniques

[DwightMcCann]

Well, there seem to be a lot of guys with some great Night Club Photography Tips and Techniques who would like a FAQ or Sticky but just can't seem to start one themselves so here it is!

First Tip: Read the Concert FAQ here (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=226809).

Now, everyone with something to contribute do it!

[yap'in]

I just read the last post on the other thread ... was wondering how to start it up

My 2 Cents for what i do

- Be sure to shoot in Manual Mode
- Shutter speeds from 1/10 - 1/4 of a second
- Aperture from 4 - 6
- ISO 400 +++
- Flash is a must

also, dress to impress wherever you go ... i've seen dudes come into a "dressy" nightclub wearing collegiate clothing and a crummy baseball cap.

i took this lastnight at Andy's Pool Hall down here in Toronto ... good music if you're ever in town
ex: 1/8, f4.5, iso800
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2339/2174142506_9980da1dd3.jpg?v=0

[ItsMike]

I just read the last post on the other thread ... was wondering how to start it up

My 2 Cents for what i do

- Be sure to shoot in Manual Mode
- Shutter speeds from 1/10 - 1/4 of a second
- Aperture from 4 - 6
- ISO 400 +++
- Flash is a must




I agree! Drag the shutter if possible..

[Rukes]

Well, there seem to be a lot of guys with some great Night Club Photography Tips and Techniques who would like a FAQ or Sticky but just can't seem to start one themselves so here it is!

First Tip: Read the Concert FAQ here (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=226809).

Now, everyone with something to contribute do it!

Going to be tough to get everything into one, since unlike concert photography, there are so many more styles of nightclub photography :)

You have the basic direct-light candids like the hipster photography trend, the oldschool raver type pics with a majority of nightlife photography, the oversharpened low-aperture photos, and the colorful high-aperture photos, etc...

Will work on writing something up to help :)

[Lefty Ray]

Make sure all batteries are fully charged.

[cool_dude07]

I agree! Drag the shutter if possible..

Ok, why do you 'drag' the shutter? Please explain..

Ty

[bacchanal]

Ok, why do you 'drag' the shutter? Please explain..

Ty

The idea is to let the flash freeze motion and expose for the subject while leaving the shutter open longer to let in ambient light and create a more 'balanced' exposure. This will often give you light trails or colorful backgrounds, both of which aren't necessarily a bad things in nightclub photography.

My tip would be to use a flash bracket and bounce the flash if possible. I don't use a bracket (yet), and my wrist can get a little sore after holding a 30D + 17-55 in one hand for a couple hours (580ex in the other hand).

Also, use colored gel samples (such as the Rosco swatchbook (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/45189-REG/Rosco_950SBLUX0103_Roscolux_Swatchbook.html)) to balance the flash color temp to the ambient light color temp. People have different ways of mounting the gel samples to the front of their flash, but I just stick mine inside a Stofen Omnibounce.

[djharmonix]

I'm a beginner in club photography but already did a few contracts...

I work with a Canon 5D, 24-70mm 2.8L and 580EX with lightsphere II diffuser.

I use manual settings, 1/90th of a second, F4. ISO800 with flash on ETTL. Exposure on central metering.

http://www.pbase.com/nicolasshapiro/image/91467013/original.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/nicolasshapiro/image/91467027/original.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/nicolasshapiro/image/91467021/original.jpg

You can see more on my PBASE account:

http://www.pbase.com/nicolasshapiro

[narlus]

last one's nice!

[yap'in]

this thread is slowly slipping away

[DwightMcCann]

this thread is slowly slipping away

Yes, so we are now trying to keep bare Tips & Tricks (rather than discussion) in the main FAQ I started way back when which also has quieted down ... most tips for clubs are useful for small band venues so there is plenty of overlap. So just go edit in your stuff along with the pictures to demonstrate! :-)

[yap'in]

i got a funny question

who uses the flash straight on? because i've been doing the que card and rubberband trick (as ghetto as it is) and seems to work quite well ... i'm noticing djharmonix is flashing straight on ... i could be totally wrong

should i invest in one of those plastic diffusers?

here's a sample of the que-card/rubberband trick
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2106/2118044429_a86405ea89.jpg?v=0

[yap'in]

****...i just reread his post and it said lightsphere II diffuser

[PhotosGuy]

Anyone with Club/Nightlife photography questions? (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=363560)

Tips for Xmas Ball Please (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=419399)

Re: Flash Photography 101, Chapter 3 - A Systematic Approach to Bounced Flash (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=177622)

Party Shots (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=369787)

See the links & finished shots at the end: First event coming up (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=470125)

The Johnny Headband Band (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=372180)

First time concert shoot at HoB tomorrow. Any last min advice? (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=461304)

How to generate sales (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=479791)

[35Pixels]

how do you get an overall lit up body when you shoot Vertically? Sometimes only the head is lit up? What focus mode do I use? Does metering mode matter? what are you Flash Settings to capture a well lit overall person in the dark?

thank you

some of my favorites in the event/nightlife are
www.ambrel.net (only for people/candid)
www.caesarsebastian.com (for crowd/DJ/people)
www.rukes.com (crowd)
www.angeladam.com (people)

[René Damkot]

how do you get an overall lit up body when you shoot Vertically? Sometimes only the head is lit up? I assume you're using a flash like the 430EX or 580EX?

Don't angle the head toward the subject too much...
What focus mode do I use? Does metering mode matter? what are you Flash Settings to capture a well lit overall person in the dark?

Probably One shot when it's dark and the subject is relatively stationary.
Metering mode matters if you use Av, doesn't matter in M
I use Av with some - or + EC, or M, depending on circumstances. Flash on ETTL, some - or + FEC depending on circumstances...

[ashy_knuckles]

I am a noob to all of this, but my job has just started a website devoted to nightlife and entertainment, so I saw this as an opportunity to combine two thing that I really have an interest for photography & clubbin'!

I have found these post greatly informative, and will try many of the tips/hints on my next outing.

What I am writing about today is:

I saw that a good bit of you speak of using a lightsphere diffuser. Upon looking up what they were, and the range of prices, I couldn't help but notice how similar the diffuser looks to this...(the clear part, anyway)

http://ultimatedealz.com/library/homeandgarden-196713.jpg
I've seen the clear replacement covers in Lowes/Home Depot for like $3.00.
I was guessing that with a little dremmel tool, a little epoxy, and some different color film for the top of the domes...this little D.I.Y. project might work.

Just a thought.
I'm on my way to the hardware store now to give it a shot.

[electrofunk]

I'm a beginner in club photography but already did a few contracts...

I work with a Canon 5D, 24-70mm 2.8L and 580EX with lightsphere II diffuser.

I use manual settings, 1/90th of a second, F4. ISO800 with flash on ETTL. Exposure on central metering.

http://www.pbase.com/nicolasshapiro/image/91467013/original.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/nicolasshapiro/image/91467027/original.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/nicolasshapiro/image/91467021/original.jpg

You can see more on my PBASE account:

http://www.pbase.com/nicolasshapiro

great stuff man-love it

[djharmonix]

THANKS!!! :lol:

[studiotime]

how do you get an overall lit up body when you shoot Vertically? Sometimes only the head is lit up? What focus mode do I use? Does metering mode matter? what are you Flash Settings to capture a well lit overall person in the dark?

thank you

some of my favorites in the event/nightlife are
www.ambrel.net (http://www.ambrel.net) (only for people/candid)

for me it was when i forwent all the usual settings, and just started REALLY playing around w/the shutter speed and aperture settings, that i could finally understand 'proper exposure', and from it i was also able to discover the many *different* ways and effects i could create w/my candid shots. that Niki Digital is one of my all-time faves too - hers are more editorial styled while keeping wonderful saturation as well.

oh, and for me if i want a 'straight on, nothing fancy' shot, i usually stick w/something like f2.8 10th sec. if going for more ambience i'll slow the shutter to around 1/2 sec or even a full sec. i also *never* go above iso 200 if i must. normally i stick w/iso100 for the saturation.

:)

[studiotime]

i got a funny question

who uses the flash straight on? because i've been doing the que card and rubberband trick (as ghetto as it is) and seems to work quite well ... i'm noticing djharmonix is flashing straight on ... i could be totally wrong

should i invest in one of those plastic diffusers?

here's a sample of the que-card/rubberband trick
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2106/2118044429_a86405ea89.jpg?v=0

not too shabby :) but my lighting was GREATLY improved when i finally 'gave in' and bought the lightsphere II - love it! clear skintones while still getting the colorful ambient lighting :D

[studiotime]

how do you get an overall lit up body when you shoot Vertically?



you know you can swivel the head on the 580ex flash so that when shooting vertical your flash will remain centered top. :)

[elader]

you can get a knockoff lightsphere on ebay for pretty cheap. They seem a bit heavier, but they work.

[drock220]

ive been shooting at a club for some time now. i started with my kit lens and on camera flash and the pictures turn out decent but improvments can be made. the last 2 times out ive used a 24-60 and an old vivitar manual on shoe flash.

the first night with the setup i had toubles firing the flash unit so went back to on camera. I had to shoot with manual focus in a really dark venue because my flash does not emit a light to help AF. i went to look at the pictures after the shoot and the people were soft/out of focus and background was sharp.

Last night i got my flash unit working but had to deal with the focusing issue again. Tried focusing before hand and locking the focus on the lens but my images turned out the same way.

do i need to upgrade to a speedlite with ettl? or any other suggestions

[studiotime]

do i need to upgrade to a speedlite with ettl? or any other suggestions

your flash should be on ETTL so it can properly meter the light based on your camera's settings. and yes, sometimes in very dark areas (having very little lights around) can be frustrating when focussing, but i'll try and focus on something light in color (say, a shirt/top) then recompose to shoot.

[General Kratos]

I'm new to this as well and I didnt see anyone of you post up what your WB should be set at. I assume "custom"?

What about filters? UV?

[René Damkot]

I set WB to tungsten, and gel the flash to match that color.
No UV filters on my lenses. Ever.
Always a hood though.

[General Kratos]

No UV filters on my lenses. Ever.
Always a hood though.

Are you serious? I know the hood protects the glass to a degree but not having a filter sounds way too risky for me. 1 hairline scratch on the glass can mean $100-$200 off on the lens if I was to ever sell it. :confused:

Are you guys all shooting without any filters too? What filter should I put on? If the WB needs to be fix, I'll just do that in in PP.

[DwightMcCann]

Nope, that darn Rene convinced me not to have filters on my lenses when shooting concerts or clubs. Too much chance of glare, even with a hood. When just cruising around or outdoors I usually have a filter and always a hood.

[General Kratos]

Dame....no filter it is. I'll just be extra, extra careful. Good thing you're on here a lot, my gig is in 2hrs and really wanted to know if I should take a filter or not. So thanks Dwight, I appreciate the help.

[studiotime]

i always have a filter on mine. why?? cuz i once tried to precariously balance my camera while tying my shoes for a quick moment, and sure enough my camera went tumbling down and onto the floor. well i saw that my (whopping $20) filter got damaged completely, but my $1000 lens was still in perfect order (thank goodness!).

so for me, to heck w/the hood (unless i shoot a theater show or concert), and i make sure i have my clear filter on at all times :D

[PhotosGuy]

so for me, to heck w/the hood (unless i shoot a theater show or concert) Even expensive glass needs some help to keep it's expensively designed contrast by cutting glare.


http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20071008094033AACthZI&show=7

[drock220]

your flash should be on ETTL so it can properly meter the light based on your camera's settings. and yes, sometimes in very dark areas (having very little lights around) can be frustrating when focussing, but i'll try and focus on something light in color (say, a shirt/top) then recompose to shoot.

i guess my problem would be that my flash doesnt have ETTL.

[PhotosGuy]

i guess my problem would be that my flash doesnt have ETTL. Not a problem IMO. All mine are manual & they only do what I tell them to do. ;)

[tangcla]

Just a question, why shoot at f4-6? I find I do most of my lowlight/club photography at f2.2-f3.2, depending on how much depth of field I need to capture.

This allows me to keep the shutter at 1/50 to 1/80s to keep the photos blur-free.

[elysium]

Not too sure, I tend to shoot @ 2.8 and possibly slightly higher for larger groups.

2.8
http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v171/42/99/506975265/n506975265_779361_2753.jpg

http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v171/42/99/506975265/n506975265_779400_5843.jpg

I also like bumping the ISO right up to expose for enough ambient light and use a slightly faster shutter speed. Others tend to go for a slow shutter speed and lower ISO.

[pptdgc]

I'm starting out in night club photography and have a 40D with the 17-85 f4-5.6 lens. I am looking to by a new lens and flash unit for this purpose - I'm considering the 17-55 f2.8 and either the 430 or 580 ex flash - what do u guys think?

Also could you please give me some tips for my first shoot in terms of settings, flash settings etc. I will be shooting a drak club with flashing background lights lazers etc. I will be taking mainly grouped people shots but also some crowd/action shots.

Should I shoot in m mode. What should I use for my initial settings?

Thanks

[René Damkot]

You might want to read this thread from the start, including the links in it.
Then have a look here (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showpost.php?p=6129682&postcount=3).

Also, reading the answers in the thread you started (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?p=6233513#post6233513) might actually help ;)

On the equipment; the lens you have should do for starters with either of the flashes.

[StylusFunk]

Are you serious? I know the hood protects the glass to a degree but not having a filter sounds way too risky for me.

I don't use a filter either, just a hood. The filter darkens my viewfinder, which is a pain in a dark nightclub. The rigid hood I use is pretty big, and protects well.

[René Damkot]

No filter here either.
Hood offers better protection against bumping and stuff IMO.

[studiotime]

I don't use a filter either, just a hood. The filter darkens my viewfinder, which is a pain in a dark nightclub. The rigid hood I use is pretty big, and protects well.

do you have a clear or UV filter on?

:)

[PhotosGuy]

The filter darkens my viewfinder Explain that?

[StevenLdk]

Hi there :)

I just had to register here, when I saw this post. I am no Canon owner (sorry, please don't flame), but I have been taking quite a few club pictures and thought I would let you guys know what I do.
First and foremost have a flash and a decent diffuser! After that, set your flash setting to 2nd curtain shutter or rear sync depending on model and make I guess. Play around with aperture and shutter, but keep it in the low digits :p

I'll just post a few of my shots
http://fc03.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2010/162/9/8/98b9024a571ab59527130d06e1dbd783.jpg
http://fc06.deviantart.net/fs71/f/2010/161/2/f/2f96230a93552e6ff950be897d39c29f.jpg

More can be seen at
My Public Facebook Gallery (http://www.facebook.com/steven.lyager)
My DeviantArt Gallery (http://stevenldk.deviantart.com/)

[s2kdriver80]

I have to shoot my friend's performance in a bar tonight, on short notice. Flash photography is a realm where I don't have much experience. Just a few questions...

If I do M mode, I guess pick the aperture I want (depending on how much DOF I want), pick shutter I want (without so much worry about freezing nearby motion since I'm using flash), and then adjust the ISO until I hit "0" on the light meter, and then test the shots from there to see if "0" is fine? Is this the way to go?

And what about flash? Set to E-TTL mode and forget about it? Does flash output (duration) have any bearing on the "-2 -1 0 +1 +2" light meter in the viewfinder? In other words will the amount of flash be any different when that light meter is set to -2 as opposed to +2? And lastly, the level set by the preflash or the FEL follows the focus point, right? I hope so as that seems logical. Or does the preflash and FEL determine flash output by center point, regardless of where focus point is set? Thanks.

[JustOrdinary]

I love your style of photography in the night scene....it's very close to the style I am looking to capture! I would appreciate any input or suggestions from you on my coming decision on equipment check out my recent post for more of an idea of the photography I am looking into and keep in mind I do love your photo style and would love to accomplish similar quality and colors.

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?p=11491523#post11491523

Hi there :)

I just had to register here, when I saw this post. I am no Canon owner (sorry, please don't flame), but I have been taking quite a few club pictures and thought I would let you guys know what I do.
First and foremost have a flash and a decent diffuser! After that, set your flash setting to 2nd curtain shutter or rear sync depending on model and make I guess. Play around with aperture and shutter, but keep it in the low digits :p

I'll just post a few of my shots
http://fc03.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2010/162/9/8/98b9024a571ab59527130d06e1dbd783.jpg
http://fc06.deviantart.net/fs71/f/2010/161/2/f/2f96230a93552e6ff950be897d39c29f.jpg

More can be seen at
My Public Facebook Gallery (http://www.facebook.com/steven.lyager)
My DeviantArt Gallery (http://stevenldk.deviantart.com/)

[jdmhon]

for shooting in the night club setting i usually use M or P mode. shutter speed: 1/50 or 1/60, apperture @ 5-7, ISO at 200 or 400 and my flash 430EX on ETTL. I get awesome results

[jdmhon]

here are some shots with my settings!
http://b-diamond.smugmug.com/Events/Crazybox/IMG6042/1133237826_sBbkM-M.jpg
http://b-diamond.smugmug.com/Events/Crazybox/IMG6071/1133283355_Pt8f5-M.jpg
http://b-diamond.smugmug.com/Events/Black-Diamond-Photography/IMG6850/1130730328_YKRD9-M.jpg
http://b-diamond.smugmug.com/Events/Black-Diamond-Photography/IMG6880/1130777254_jrqk3-M.jpg

[omastroi]

The biggest tips I can say for nightclub photos, is drag the shutter, shoot between f/4-6, get a canon 430ex flash orHigher. I shoot with a 580 ex. Buy a Gary Fong diffuser. Always have the diffuser aiming up towards the ceiling, and shoot. I flash will cause your subjects to actually stay still in the photo allowing for the slow shutter speeds. Lastly, what makes a good nightclub photographer is how well you can edit. I run my photos through lightroom. Use the exposure brush to fix the blemishes and since most people are sweating, there will be glairs, using the clarity brush can fix that. Lastly use the sharpen brush on the eyes and lips and your done. Most clubs wont print their photos, just post them online so quick editing is alway fine. If you choose to print the photos, then additional editing will be needed. OO lastly, always add a little veinetting (sp.) and some gradient because you want people eyes to be draw to the subjects and not all the distracting things in the background.

Attached is an example of my work

[Nic L]

nice shot this last one....good info

[tmon]

Im going to be shooting a party in a room with a relatively low ceiling that is pointed up in the center, like one of > but turned 90 degrees( im spacing on what to call this right now)
would that pose any sort of problem for a bounce flash?
thanks

[nathancarter]

Im going to be shooting a party in a room with a relatively low ceiling that is pointed up in the center, like one of > but turned 90 degrees( im spacing on what to call this right now)
would that pose any sort of problem for a bounce flash?
thanks

If it's a low ceiling, you should still be able to make it work, but it'll take some experimenting and constant adjustment to get the light to go in the direction that you want.

Remember that the 430EXII and 580EXII flash heads can face almost any direction. You might need to face the flash at a 45 degree angle then rotate it so that it's pointing to the side or even pointing backwards, so it bounces off the angled ceiling then directly back to your subject.

it can potentially work better than a flat horizontal ceiling, since the light won't be falling onto your subject from directly above, but may fall onto the subject from above their shoulder or above/behind your shoulders.

[fenomeno]

I wanted to ask when you are shooting in portrait do you point the flash up or towards the subjects?

[nathancarter]

(Almost) never point the flash directly from the camera to the subject.

If the only flash you can use is the Speedlite mounted on the camera, point it up, or to the side, or somewhere that light will be bounced onto the subject - remember that the Speedlite will spin as well as tilt. If you need more light directed to the subject, use a bounce card (I use a page from a little notepad, taped to the back of the speedlite. others like an index card and a rubber band) or even bounce it off your hand.

If you can get the flash off the camera, do so. The 60D will control Speedlites wirelessly, which I love love love. Many other bodies can control a Speedlite remotely via cable connections. Or there's the ST-E2 wireless transmitter but that's pricey. You can still bounce it off the ceiling or the wall, or off an umbrella, or through a diffuser. Lighting from the side and/or above will give nice shadows which will make the subject not seem flat and lifeless.

[tonylong]

I wanted to ask when you are shooting in portrait do you point the flash up or towards the subjects?

To add to the above notes:

With nightclub photography we assume you are shooting handheld, so your options are limited!

Using a good bounce card with the flash pointing up may be your best option.

If you can handle one-hand shooting, many nightclub photogs hold the flash with their "free" hand to get more of the "off camera flash" look and more control of it. The big question being how good can you be at one handed shooting? The flash is triggered either by a cable or wirelessly.

If you can manage it, an assistant can come in handy.

[fenomeno]

is there a big difference in the results when shooting the flash off camera?
Also which is the best focusing method to use in canon systems for example , evaluative, spot , center metering?

[tonylong]

Here's a thread dedicated to off-camera flash:

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=653964&highlight=off+camera+flash

And, if you browse this thread, you will see the technique in use -- it's pretty easy to spot:

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=895331&highlight=best+nightclub

[digitalfrog]

I shot a lot of night club and wrote a mini-guide a few years ago, but I guess it still applies.

http://www.digitalfrog.nl/oldblog/?p=30

http://i.pbase.com/g3/12/474612/2/89130188.ywfUYbxA.jpg

[peterlovesrice]

Make sure all batteries are fully charged.

I agree make sure you always have double of everything. I always make sure I have charged the batteries for my flash and camera. And make sure you have an extra memory card just to make sure you have a solid picture

[nielkotze]

I use off-camera flash extensively.
I have a Nikon D7000 and use CLS (e-TTL) to trigger my flashes.
My one SB-600 is handheld, with a A4 size diffuser mounted on it to soften the flash.
The other SB-600 is usually in a 60x60cm softbox on a light stand near the DJ box.

I tend to stick with ISO320 / F5.6 and my exposure times vary between 1s and 1/20th of a second.
For stills I will use 1/5 - 1/20th and for zoom burst I use 1/4 to 1 second.

Here is a link if you want to check out the pics:
http://nielkotzephotography.blogspot.com/search/label/Sunday%20Satisfaction

[jesus_photography]

hi all,

I've been a nightclub photographer for 6 or so months now...have worked in 4 different venues and these are some stuff I've came up with.

My equipment is
canon 450d (good, cheap camera, u won't mind some drink getting spilled on)
canon efs 10-22 3.5-5.6 wide angle
canon 580 EXII

For the basic settings, i always work at ETTL -2/3 45 degree (got a plastic diffuser on it, as well could be a small softbox), camera settings is M mode, exposure times from 1/4 to 1/30, F 5.6 to F7, ISO800.

My productivity rate is 600 to 1000 clicks / night - 180-350 pictures delivered depending on crowd size.

My standard approach lines vary...here are some:
-hi, would you like to take some pictures? or
-come on, gather up (waving camera above my head) or...
-PIIIIIIIICTURE TIME (lol)
always depending on how joyable the company is when i approach them

upon acceptance, i instruct hugs (if they haven't already). It's easy to ask them to hug and it does bring them closer together, a key in getting good pictures with their friends. Distance between heads kinda ruins it for me. I take one picture. Usually they do look a bit cold in it so I look at my lcd a bit disgusted and say...'pfff way too serious, are you in the church or something?' or something like it. 90% of the time they laugh at that and I can get them to do more crazy ****, move their hands, get their tongues out and give something that pops a bit more, show them like they are actually partying. Very important factor as the club DOES want to showcase pictures of people having a good time so that it brings in more people next time. Then I shoot a doubleclick (to avoid closed eyes) but always getting my camera lens to an angle to their proportion. I might go a bit left or a bit right or even raise my camera above my head lens looking a bit down and take a picture from above. I get to seem a little funny and unprofessional doing that but most people prefer the pictures I take from above and this combined with everything else gave me a significantly good edge over most of my city's nightclub photographers. My 10-22 really helps that because I will always get them IN the frame whatever happens. After the shots, I quickly browse the pictures see if I have at least one good one and say 'ok' or if I do not have a good one...just ask for a couple more. It's not bad to ask for more, it does show that you care for a nice picture out of them and they respect that in you as well.

Ok all the above is pretty generic and you might adjust a lot on you communication and shooting as your experience grows.

Various themes I do for the clubs showcase in facebook:
-Shoot tshirt graphics
-Get camera down to feet lvl and shoot highhills of chics
-Get camera to their face and do a wide angle close up, that's it if you really like a face.
-Shoot tattoos
-Shoot performers, club personnel etc.

for a little bit of variation in the album.

you can see my work in facebook in this page:
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.486037849645.261538.97438604645

EDIT:

for some aditional workflow tips. After I shoot the pics, I transfer them into a pc using a card reader. Open up adobe bridge and preview the photos. I choose them manually using Bridge rating system with the stars, each picture that is a keeper gets one star. Fair enough. I filter out the rest of the images. Open all the * images in adobe camera raw. I adjust the settings to where I like them, minor fix them for each picture and then do some crop (the result is for web use only so I don't mind doing tight crops). I hit done and then use PS image processor to mass resize (separately choose landscape and portrait oriented pictures to resize, image processor option 2). After resize I have to do logo. I prepare a psd with the logo in the fixed size that will go in the picture, isolated from the background. I prepare two actions one for horizontal images and one for vertical images that paste the logo, move it to position and then merge. I image processor again this time hitting the action (image processor option 4). Then I upload to a password protected ftp, email it to the client and there you go.

The whole thing takes 2 hours aprox and I always deliver the images next day.

You could as well use LR but I prefer ACR + PS.

[Mathiau]

Canon 40D
Canon 430ex
Canon 17-85
Canon Macro 60mm
Canon Nifty 50 cheapo
Sigma 10-20mm

Do i got a chance??

[400dabuser]

I've been using ETTL for the last few months, it has been hit and miss, do you think it is better to be on manual flash?

[smilephotos]

I've been using ETTL for the last few months, it has been hit and miss, do you think it is better to be on manual flash?

I have been shooting with a manual flash for a year and then switched to ettl when I upgraded my flash a couple of months ago, and I would say you're better off keeping it in manual, the ettl can't read the unpredictable lighting in most nightclubs- I have found if typically overexposes subjects wearing dark clothing or standing in a dark corner of the club, (even on -2) and blows out the image. I shoot a lot of candids so this is frustrating as it's caused me to miss a lot of shots I can't get back! I've also noticed it drains more power from the flash and the recycle time is reduced greatly on ettl- assuming this is because the flash is trying to overcompensate all of the time?



www.sophiawhitfield.com
www.smilephotos.wordpress.com
www.facebook.com/smile.photos.design

[Fredv1]

I like to shoot with a small aperture like f 11 around and flash at around 1/8 with a defuser and shutter round 1/4, I find i get a good focus with this and nice bright people, im only new to it, been about 5 times but every time i learn something new.

Check out my stuff at http://nightstereo.fatsoma.com/

[neadloc]

hey people just saw this topic and had to join the forum
im having problems with the skin tone of the people i take pics of, its like they have yellow skin
is this because i use the WB in auto or because i have the flash firing directly to the people
any help is more than welcome

[fenomeno]

I like to shoot with a small aperture like f 11 around and flash at around 1/8 with a defuser and shutter round 1/4, I find i get a good focus with this and nice bright people, im only new to it, been about 5 times but every time i learn something new.

Check out my stuff at http://nightstereo.fatsoma.com/

how do u get much exposure shooting 1/4 at f11 ?
did you use second curtain flash for light trails?

[scottish dave]

Hi all, kind of a new user, i signed up last year but stopped taking photos. Now im getting back into it i thought id pop in and i noticed a clubbing thread.

I used to take photos in clubs which can be tough as we all know light can be a nightmare

My personal preference with taking photos was slow shutter speeds talking 1/2 or less and use the flash to burn the image which allowing the rest of the light to bleed. It depends on what club you are in of course but it works well in dance clubs. im at work so dont have access to many files but heres a couple ive done, they are old so not very good but you get the point

[scottish dave]

hey people just saw this topic and had to join the forum
im having problems with the skin tone of the people i take pics of, its like they have yellow skin
is this because i use the WB in auto or because i have the flash firing directly to the people
any help is more than welcome

I personally prefer using a higher saturation to make the skin look more tanned, especially over here in the UK where everyone is pale most of the year lol

[Mathiau]

My question......... with the flash... where do you direct it?

indoors you try to reflect it off a nice light wall... in a club
b, do you do dead on, or just over their heads or?

[ILIKEBACON]

Hey guys, I have been shooting nightclubs (well nightclub, since there are only two in Reno...) for about a month now and would like some opinions on how to make my pictures more interesting and better overall.

I am using the equipment in my signature (only added what I am using for nightclub stuff), and I feel like I should be able to produce better images. I saw another thread on this forum that had someone shooting with an XTi (according to EXIF data) and his/her pictures look very sharp and clean.

I am shooting at f/4, 1/10 and 800 ISO using the flash on the hotshoe with it pointed at about 45 degrees depending on the shot.

I feel like my shots are kind of boring and hazy or just not as sharp as some others on here. Here is a link to some images on my FB page to see what I mean:
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.257203640970603.68438.230724560285178&type=1

and here are some from my website:
http://www.stetlerphotography.com/index2.php#/rgallery1/2/

Thanks in advance.

[tonylong]

Well, I'm not a nightclub photog so can't give you direct advice.

But, the topic does come up and has triggered numerous threads, and it would advantage you to check them out!

First, I'd look at the bottom of this page to the Similar Threads section. You will note that your title triggered a forum mini-search that got some interesting results.

Second, if you do your own forum search with the term "nightclub" you should find a lot of good reading.

And then, there are threads dedicated to "Nightclub Shooting" photos where people both post a lot of great stuff but also discuss and share tips. Here's one that has been active:

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=494417

I hope this helps a bit!

[ILIKEBACON]

Well, I'm not a nightclub photog so can't give you direct advice.

But, the topic does come up and has triggered numerous threads, and it would advantage you to check them out!

First, I'd look at the bottom of this page to the Similar Threads section. You will note that your title triggered a forum mini-search that got some interesting results.

Second, if you do your own forum search with the term "nightclub" you should find a lot of good reading.

And then, there are threads dedicated to "Nightclub Shooting" photos where people both post a lot of great stuff but also discuss and share tips. Here's one that has been active:

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=494417

I hope this helps a bit!

:confused: That thread hasn't had a post since march....this one had a few posts a couple weeks ago (and its called nightclub photography tips and techniques :lol:) so I figured it was promising.

[nielkotze]

Hey all. I've been shooting in night clubs for 2 years.
I started off with a bridge camera - it looks like an DSLR, but the lens does not remove, does not have a mechanical shutter and the lens is operated manually like a proper lens.... and shooting with the popup flash.

In Dec 2009 I bought my first DSLR, a Nikon D3000 (the entry level model) and was still shooting with the popup flash. Around June I got my first speedlight - a SB-600. As a notice to speedlight photography I thought that the lighting was great but in reality the lighting was very harsh.
I experimented with DIY bounce cards.... first tried a business card since the SB600 does not have a built-in bounce card.... It worked ok.
I made a A5 sized bounce card (black at the back / White at the front) which gave my bounce and fill flash at the same time.... it worked better.
Then I made a A4 sized bounce card which gave softer light.... it worked even better.

In December 2010 I bought a Nikon D7000, which was a major upgrade from the D3000!
I discovered that the popup flash of the D7000 can also act as a flash commander for the SB-600 and started using my SB-600 wirelessly (with the A4 bouncecard) - mostly handheld..... this was another improvement.

My next improvement was a DIY softbox that fits over the wireless SB-600. This really improved my photos. The SB-600 was my only light source. The popup flash only sent a preflash for the slave and did not actually help with the exposure (not a lot anyways).

My next and current improvement was to buy a SB-700, which has a built-in commander.
The SB-700 is mounted on my camera, triggers the slave flash(es) and also provide fill light. (Part of the major improvement in my photos)
I often had problems with the Slave SB-600 failing to fire due to strobe lights and other bright lights interfering with the wireless (optical) triggering. The SB-700 fixed that problem!
Nikon provides a diffusion dome with the SB-700 which I use to diffuse the flash output.

I use 2 lenses in night clubs: Nikkor 18-105mm VR and Sigma 10-20mm.
I usually shoot at ISO400| F5.6 | 1/15 s or slower.

This might be Greek to you but someone might just learn something from this post.
If you are interested to see my results check out my blog:
http://nielkotzephotography.blogspot.com/

[keny]

How do you avoid camera shake with a shutter of 1/4 without IS let's say you're using a 24-70mm shooting at 24mm

[tonylong]

How do you avoid camera shake with a shutter of 1/4 without IS let's say you're using a 24-70mm shooting at 24mm

Well. it's up to you to work your technique! If you are using flash, you have some "wiggle room", just don't be careless. If you are trying to "freeze" a moving subject, the flash can help, but a high ISO to get the fastest shutter speed possible, can help as well. You need a lot of experience/practice to get this stuff down, and when you do, you can show up here as an "expert":)!

[400dabuser]

Av, Tv or Manual? I have noticed that with Tv, it gets rid of all the ambience of the club/venue which really sucks

[digitalfrog]

You *want* a slow speed, so you can use TV but stick it at 1s or so ... that will help to capture the ambiant strobes ... they will be blurred but it does not matter. The strobe (2nd curtain) will freeze the subject that will be submerged in sublim colors !

[400dabuser]

You *want* a slow speed, so you can use TV but stick it at 1s or so ... that will help to capture the ambiant strobes ... they will be blurred but it does not matter. The strobe (2nd curtain) will freeze the subject that will be submerged in sublim colors !


Cheers for that:cool:

[digital paradise]

How do you avoid camera shake with a shutter of 1/4 without IS let's say you're using a 24-70mm shooting at 24mm

Just another approach. What I learned here is if you put your camera on manual. If the cameras light meter shows at least two stops underexposed you can shoot as slow as 1/10 and the flash will freeze the subject. Anything outside the flash range results in background blur. The flash at this point is the dominant light source - for the subjects exposure.

[tonylong]

Av, Tv or Manual? I have noticed that with Tv, it gets rid of all the ambience of the club/venue which really sucks

Have you gone through this thread from the beginning, and followed the links that have been posted? If not, you should begin that pronto!

As for getting the ambient in, you may be better served just being in Manual -- you can then expose for the ambient, with your shutter speed as slow as you are comfortable with, and then the flash serves as "fill" and can "freeze" subjects at some point, although the slower shutter speed can show some movement as well -- these are "creative choices" that take practice!

[SJWOLF]

i joined this forum just for this thread... so i hope it isn't dead and i get a quick reply!

i've shot for this club a few times (my pictures can be found at my facebook (http://www.facebook.com/thesjwolf)) and feel like i'm the underdog compared to the other photographers that are going to be at the club this coming thursday since of my lack of experience and equipment...

i use: canon 30d + 18-55mm + opteka fish eye lens attachment

i choose to shoot with the fish eye lens at clubs because i like the effect it gives in my photos... but with the effect, i get fuzzy shots and lots of color bleeds from the lights. my camera settings usually changed but i usually shoot under manual with an iso of 1600.

but my question is: how do i NOT get those epic light blurs? i don't have an external flash and can't get one anytime soon so... yeah.

help?

[nahstee]

I shoot with a 17-40mm L, and 430ex.

Mostly f/8, 1/4-1/50 (depends on situation) and ISO 400-800.

I read some replies earlier in this thread, I believe that the key to club photography is in post production. Flash compensation is key, I'd rather slightly over expose an image than to underexpose. I always shoot in RAW, adjust images with lightroom, boost contrast, lower clarity slightly (makes everyones complexion better), boost vibrance slightly and tone curve: strong contrast. I owe a lot to this thread, when I first started club photography I relied on a lot of your posts. Cheers!

Here are some examples

http://www.flickr.com/photos/youoft-nahstee/6289613016/in/set-72157627873920183/lightbox/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/youoft-nahstee/6360995443/in/set-72157628045790989/lightbox/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/youoft-nahstee/6289614252/in/set-72157627873920183/lightbox/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/youoft-nahstee/6152615538/in/set-72157627681852130/lightbox/

[Ömppä]

Hello guys!

Please join nightlife photography community in facebook, for more tips and techniques!

I use Canon 5d mk 11 and ef 17-40mm f4 lens! You can find the community here
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Nightlife-Photography/308037815905697

AND my personal portfolio at www.acar.fi :)

Cheers!

[GLivingston]

Hey Guys... My question to the experienced nightclub shooters is this. What are you selling your pics for? Are you printing onsite or selling them from your website or both? A few years ago I ran security for a huge club in Memphis. I watched photographers leave there at night with really good money. They were printing onsite and had their own lighting rigs but they were making BANK!