Markins/RSS Threading Issues..Help

[evidence120]

Has anyone had a problem mounting RRS B2 LRII Lever Clamp on a Markins M20? The RRS lever clamp mounts straight onto my Gitzo with no problem. My stock Markins clamp spins onto the M20 smooth as butter. I can mount the RRS clamp onto the M20 upside down but it will only spin on about a half turn right side up. Seems that there is some sort of threading issue but it is out of my expertise. RRS says threading should be 3/8"-16 but I can't seem to find what Markins threads are. Also can't seem to see any burrs in either threads. If they are incompatible I figure someone else has had this issue. I've been waiting weeks for legs, plates, ballhead all to arrive and when I finally have it all I can't get it to work...ugh!!

[Wilt]

You might want to send a private mail to this guy...

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showpost.php?p=4659697&postcount=3


...or this guy...

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showpost.php?p=4454829&postcount=1

[CyberDyneSystems]

The markins is 3/8 16 as well,. (mine Markins M20 has a 3/8-16 Wimberly clamp on it)

Perhaps damaged threads?
Or thread locking goop is jamming it?

[jhom]

Markins uses 3/8"-16. It should work. I assume the Markins spins onto the Gitzo stud easily? If so, then all the threads are the same. You might want to remove the Markins stud and spin it onto the RRS clamp first and then attach the stud to the Markins ball.

[evidence120]

I ordered the ballhead from Markins with no loctite and the stud is removed from ballhead. No tools just been hand tightened. Took both pieces in to my local machine shop to see what they thought. Seems that maybe both pieces are to blame. They say that the RRS clamp has burrs in the threads and the Markins screw has bad threads. They polished the Markins screw and I can now get it in the RRS clamp but it doesn't go smooth. I am going to send the clamp back to RRS so that they can check their tolerances and I have sent an email to Markins about getting a replacement threaded screw. Anyone ever dealt with Markins customer service? I could probably torque it on now but after spending so much money I want it perfect. Thanks for the replies guys and I will report back with what happens.

[JohnJ80]

I did just this with my M20.

I ordered it without a clamp. Markins then ships a titantium threaded stud that fits into the ballhead. The RRS clamp then simply threads onto that. Simple - nothing to it. Works like a charm and is a great rig.

J.

[jhom]

I also ordered my Markins with "no loctite" allowing me to remove the quickshoe and stud. I had no problems threading my RRS lever clamp onto the Markins ball. In my case, I was retrofitting an RRS AS II lever clamp that does not have center threads. I used an RRS 3/8" reducer and 1/4-20 screw. The reducer went on smoothly.

You might have been unlucky with some tolerance variance. I agree with your decision regarding returning the RRS clamp as well as getting a new Markins stud. My experiences with Markins and RRS customer services have always been good. I would assume you will have the same experience.

[evidence120]

Just wanted to report back that both RRS and Markins have both assured me that they will make it right, and have been great. Got an email response from Markins in about 25 minutes. Said they would send out a new screw and wanted to understand my problem a little better. Have been on the phone with RRS a number of times. Seems as if this may be some fluke as both companies seem to never have encountered this problem before.

[3Tree]

Funny, I had almost the exact same problem earlier this week with a RRS B2-LRII shoe and a Markins Q3. The Markins screw would go into the center hole most of the way from the top - which didn't help, but would only go in one turn or so from the bottom side. I took a tapping bit (is that what they're called?) and cleaned out the threads of the clamp, because I needed the setup and couldn't take the time to send the clamp back to RRS. Works fine now. The tapping bit scraped out some of the anodizing, but not much else.

In general, the anodizing process should not add much (any?) at all to the metal surface. I suspect the problem was with RRS not tapping the center hole completely through - those tapping bits are tapered after all.

I'll be interested to hear what RRS and Markins both say to you...