Need some old flashes that still work...

[Reeforbust]

I'm looking for 3 old flashes that I can use on a project...
They need to work but I don't care what they look like because I just need the guts.

What's a good older flash for high light output?

[scot079]

For off camera I assume: Vivitar 285 HV.

[Reeforbust]

For off camera I assume: Vivitar 285 HV.


Yes.... I've got a little experiment going....:lol:

[Reeforbust]

For off camera I assume: Vivitar 285 HV.


Those are a little high priced for what I'm doing...

What about the Vivitar 283? Found one for $24.


What does the "HV" stand for ?

[scot079]

Never used that one so I won't make an uneducated guess. Want to share some details of this experiment? Are you trying to prove someone wrong? That's always fun:-)

[Wilt]

I may have a flash for you!


[edit] oh, nevermind, I didn't realize you wanted to shoot with it. You would need to get a Quantum battery to use the thing!

[Reeforbust]

Never used that one so I won't make an uneducated guess. Want to share some details of this experiment? Are you trying to prove someone wrong? That's always fun:-)


He he... No.

Just trying to improve a little on this... http://www.tapstream.com/sections/gear/diy/ringflash.html

I'm going to use 3 softer strobes instead of one hot one. Hopefully it will get rid of the hot spot or at least just make the whole thing hot!:lol:

Next project after this will be my water drop setup...... I gotta have one of those IR trigger thingys....

[Reeforbust]

I may have a flash for you!


yeSSS??

[toneepham]

I hear people of using the Canon 540EZ Flashes. I am about to pick 2 today. Does anyone know the recycle time on them? ( Canon 540EZ Flashes )

[SilverHCIC]

I'm going to use 3 softer strobes instead of one hot one. Hopefully it will get rid of the hot spot or at least just make the whole thing hot!:lol:



I think you're going about this all wrong. The "guts" from any conventional strobe will add too much weight to your project. Furthermore, you want to limit the output of your three strobes to a relatively low guide no to avoid illuminating your subject with a super-nova. ... Although I think you have a good idea to avoid the hot-spot. -- Your project reminds me of things I used to do about 30 years ago!!!

The best solution could be very low-weight, just the right amount of light output (ie., nominal light output), small enough to simply hot-glue to the inside of your "project", and best of all, FREEEEE. Here's what you do:

Go to the nearest photoshop that does their own 1-hour photo developing/printing. Ask them if they have the discarded outer shell from a few "disposable" 35 mm cameras (the ones made by Kodak & Fuji). Many of them have a small, built-in flash that is powered by a single AA battery. To simplify manufacturing these POS "disposable" 35mm cameras, the flash portion is actually a separate smaller insert. Get a hammer, and have at it.

... What's better than freeeeee?? ;) Have fun!!

[Reeforbust]

I think you're going about this all wrong. The "guts" from any conventional strobe will add too much weight to your project. Furthermore, you want to limit the output of your three strobes to a relatively low guide no to avoid illuminating your subject with a super-nova. ... Although I think you have a good idea to avoid the hot-spot. -- Your project reminds me of things I used to do about 30 years ago!!!

The best solution could be very low-weight, just the right amount of light output (ie., nominal light output), small enough to simply hot-glue to the inside of your "project", and best of all, FREEEEE. Here's what you do:

Go to the nearest photoshop that does their own 1-hour photo developing/printing. Ask them if they have the discarded outer shell from a few "disposable" 35 mm cameras (the ones made by Kodak & Fuji). Many of them have a small, built-in flash that is powered by a single AA battery. To simplify manufacturing these POS "disposable" 35mm cameras, the flash portion is actually a separate smaller insert. Get a hammer, and have at it.

... What's better than freeeeee?? ;) Have fun!!


Hmmmmm......

How would you fire them? This is where I get lost....I'm Not electrically minded at all!!:lol:

[SilverHCIC]

Hmmmmm......

How would you fire them? This is where I get lost....I'm Not electrically minded at all!!:lol:

Actually, it would be very simple. The little flash unit in a "disposable" camera has two short wire leads. They are connected to some type of contact switch that is associated with the cheapo shutter mechanism. ... Remember, there's not much sophisticated equipment in a $ 9 disposable camera made of plastic & cardboard !!;) Once the circuit between the two wire leads is closed, the little flash is triggered.

Completing the circuit to fire the little flash units can be accomplished by either a hotshoe adapter (with a standard pc socket) or a typical optical slave, and let the on-camera flash actuate the optical slave trigger. You can pick up a hot shoe adapter for about $15 at B&H.

If it works for you, and you have a 1-hour photo developer near you, you can have lots of fun experimenting, and all you will need to buy is one hot shoe adapter that you can use for all of your "projects". All of your flash "projects" can plug into the same hot shoe adapter.

First step is to scavange a disposable camera from your local 1-hour photo developer and have fun with a hammer. ... If it works for you, you're golden. ... An unlimited supply of FREEE low-power flash devices that you can use for various lighing projects.

Have fun!! ;)

[FlashZebra]

Hmmmmm......

How would you fire them? This is where I get lost....I'm Not electrically minded at all!!:lol:
There seems to be some sort of grand disconnect between your opening "They need to work but I don't care what they look like because I just need the guts."

And "I'm Not electrically minded at all!!"

Dealing with the guts of a flash unit is not like opening a peanut shell and then placing the peanut on a spoon to eat it.

You have to have some expectation that if you open up a flash unit and remove all the "guts" there will have to be at least a few unattached dangling wires here and there. And more realistically a lot of unattached wires dangling wires here and there.

Enjoy! Lon

[Wilt]

You have to have some expectation that if you open up a flash unit and remove all the "guts" there will have to be at least a few unattached dangling wires here and there. And more realistically a lot of unattached wires dangling wires here and there.

And a VERY DANGEROUS power capacitor!

That is the main reason why I withdrew the free flash possibility, I don't want to be sued for something stupid done by someone unqualified.

[Reeforbust]

There seems to be some sort of grand disconnect between your opening "They need to work but I don't care what they look like because I just need the guts."

And "I'm Not electrically minded at all!!"

Dealing with the guts of a flash unit is not like opening a peanut shell and then placing the peanut on a spoon to eat it.

You have to have some expectation that if you open up a flash unit and remove all the "guts" there will have to be at least a few unattached dangling wires here and there. And more realistically a lot of unattached wires dangling wires here and there.

Enjoy! Lon

Well, I do plan on gutting the flash units, I do plan on discharging the capacitor and I do plan on making it all compact and light.....

I really like the disposable camera flash idea... Just need to research the output a little more on those.

When I said I was not "electrically minded", I meant that I don't know exactly how to get three or four flash bulbs to all work as one with an off shoe cord or remote trigger once I remove everything but the bulbs, unless I could could just wire them up in series to the cord??......just need to research.....

Why would I sue someone if I stick MY hand into a fire?? The world is too sue happy I suppose..... PLUS, I know what it feels like to get zapped by a big capacitor... When I was 13 I took the back off of one of my TV's and started to "touch" all the wonderful things back there!!! YEAOWWWWW!!!! :lol:

[Wilt]

When I said I was not "electrically minded", I meant that I don't know exactly how to get three or four flash bulbs to all work as one with an off shoe cord or remote trigger once I remove everything but the bulbs, unless I could could just wire them up in series to the cord??......just need to research.....

Parallel, not in series!

[Reeforbust]

Parallel, not in series!


Why parallel? And if you run it all parallel will it hurt the camera?

Just wondering.......

I'm planning on maybe 4-6 bulbs ..

[Reeforbust]

http://www.diylive.net/index.php/2007/07/18/top-ten-disposable-camera-mods/

[Wilt]

Series, first of all, requires that every unit depends upon the others in the series to all fire. If one circuit fails, all fail.

Series also is additive in the voltage so that all units add to the trigger needed, whereas parallel has the same voltage as one unit. From flash trigger camera circuit perspective, safer.

[Reeforbust]

Series, first of all, requires that every unit depends upon the others in the series to all fire. If one circuit fails, all fail.

Series also is additive in the voltage so that all units add to the trigger needed, whereas parallel has the save voltage as one unit. From flash trigger camera circuit perspective, safer.

I'm just thinking from my Car stereo job days...... I guess series, like christmas lights is not the best.

[SilverHCIC]

And a VERY DANGEROUS power capacitor!

That is the main reason why I withdrew the free flash possibility, I don't want to be sued for something stupid done by someone unqualified.
Wilt has a good point. The reason all strobes have a recycle delay is that the capacitor draws juice from the battery and temporarily stores it in a much higher voltage than the individual battery supplies. While I have heard of people getting quite a surprise (YIKES !!:rolleyes:) while adding a sync jack to their speedlites, etc., etc., I think you should also consider the potential harm to your camera if you plan on hooking up 3 or 4 of these in series as you have stated in one of your posts.

It sounds like you are going to be careful, which is prudent. Unless you know exactly what you are doing, I would suggest you connect only one flash to the hotshoe adapter (that way you will not run the risk of damaging your camera's flash circuitry). You can experiment with triggering all of the other units with a single optical slave, like a Wein Peanut or similar inexpensive OS. ... Those are pretty indestructible, and can handle the surge for high output strobes (High Guide No.), and they keep on ticking like a Timex watch!! In that way, the separate OS trigger is the only device attached to your other flesh devices, and the flash circuitry of your camera is fully isolated. I have a couple of OS triggers that have worked for over a decade, on all types of strobes, and they seem virtually indestructible.

BTW, you may want to consider moving this thread to the DIY forum. Some of those guys can give you some good advice.

[SilverHCIC]

Oh, and one more thing, go to Strobist to get ideas on the various pc-houshold adapters that you can purchase or make yourself (since you sound like an ambitious DIY'er). Not all of your connections have to be with an actual pc sync socket. ... In fact, many of the Speedlite sync modifications that people do to their Canon strobes (other than the 580 EX II that has a PC sync) use a typical 1/8" jack you can pick up for less than 2 bucks at the hardware store.

[Reeforbust]

Wilt has a good point. The reason all strobes have a recycle delay is that the capacitor draws juice from the battery and temporarily stores it in a much higher voltage than the individual battery supplies. While I have heard of people getting quite a surprise (YIKES !!:rolleyes:) while adding a sync jack to their speedlites, etc., etc., I think you should also consider the potential harm to your camera if you plan on hooking up 3 or 4 of these in series as you have stated in one of your posts.

It sounds like you are going to be careful, which is prudent. Unless you know exactly what you are doing, I would suggest you connect only one flash to the hotshoe adapter (that way you will not run the risk of damaging your camera's flash circuitry). You can experiment with triggering all of the other units with a single optical slave, like a Wein Peanut or similar inexpensive OS. ... Those are pretty indestructible, and can handle the surge for high output strobes (High Guide No.), and they keep on ticking like a Timex watch!! In that way, the separate OS trigger is the only device attached to your other flesh devices, and the flash circuitry of your camera is fully isolated. I have a couple of OS triggers that have worked for over a decade, on all types of strobes, and they seem virtually indestructible.

BTW, you may want to consider moving this thread to the DIY forum. Some of those guys can give you some good advice.


There's a DIY forum?