Always manual exposure with strobes???

[GDHugh]

I just set up a small portrait studio in my shop. I had to start out as many people do spending as little as possible but trying not to by junk. I bought one b800 and ABs' 60" umbrella. A pair of Impact light stands, an Impact 48" round reflector, a 10' backdrop stand and a light grey muslin. I'm also tying to incorporate a pair of small flat panel strobes and my 430ex into the mix. I'll get a couple of first images up soon.
As for my question... what is the common technique for setting exposure?
I set my 40D to manual, selected the f/stop I wanted for DOF, ISO100 and 1/320 shutter. Then took one shot at full power from the B800 shooting thru the 60" umbrella. That's way too much light. dialed it down to half power and got good results. Not great but a good place to start. Now I gotta find how to get better reflection from the other side and get less light on the backdrop.
I know I have rambled because there is so much I want to learn.
I tried the modeling light but it is little help with the umbrella in place.
I guess my question for now is... Always manual exposure? If not then how do you meter light from the flash with out buying a light meter.

[elwood58]

Without using ETTL Flash, which would limit you to everything controled by camera mounted flash, the method will be somewhat trial and error until you get a light meter. The good news is that you are using digital, so you can actually see test shot results.

It can be somewhat difficult to see much detail in the LCD view on your camera. The exception is the histogram. For now, I would rely on the histogram and LCD review. If you have a laptop that can be near at hand, you would be able to look at a lot more detail from your test shots.

If using monolights, and other camera independent, light sources is important to you, start saving up for a light meter.

[SkipD]

I guess my question for now is... Always manual exposure? If not then how do you meter light from the flash with out buying a light meter.With studio flash (or any manually controlled flash unit), exposure control is purely manual.

When using a camera with a focal plane shutter (like all Canon EOS cameras), there is a limit to the shutter speed that you can use. That limit is usually called the "Max Sync Speed" and, with recent Canon DSLR's, is usually 1/200 or 1/250 second. If you use any faster shutter speeds, you will see a "shadow" on one edge of the image. The "shadow" will get larger as you increase the shutter speed (beyond the max sync speed, that is).

There are essentially two ways to deal with getting the right exposure. One is trial-and-error (usually with a few four-letter words thrown into the fray) and the other is to use a handheld light meter that can measure the output of flash units. My favorite - and very popular among folks here - is the Sekonic L-358.

To control the exposure you can adjust the output of the flash unit(s) and/or adjust the aperture of the lens. Varying the ISO setting on DSLR's is another tool, of course (as would be choosing a film speed). You can also, when needed, add neutral density filter(s) to the lens if you want a wide aperture but cannot turn the flash source(s) down enough.

[GDHugh]

Thanks guys. Here are a couple of my first shots. THey are just a starting point. Lucky, my step-daughter loves the camera and is very eager to learn with me. CC appriciated.
http://i.pbase.com/g4/36/638036/2/91888433.pv8z9lSD.jpg
http://i.pbase.com/g4/36/638036/2/91888360.mVkWRHLp.jpg
http://i.pbase.com/g4/36/638036/2/91888344.lIlejSO4.jpg


Thanks guys!

[elwood58]

I am not seeing the images.

[GDHugh]

I see red X. I don' get it. ANYONE?

[GDHugh]

try right click on the X and click show picture. Worked for me.

[PacAce]

I see red X. I don' get it. ANYONE?

No, I didn't see a red X. However, there were no images showing either, initially. I actually had to go into your post and cut and paste each of the image URL to the browser address line in order to view each image. Once I did that for all the images, they showed up OK in your post. Weird! I haven't seen something like (where I couldn't view the image) this in a long time.

[MT Stringer]

Me no seeum. Had to go into the properties, copy the url and paste into the browser. Then they show in your post.
Mike

[Consensus Trance]

Thanks guys. Here are a couple of my first shots. THey are just a starting point. Lucky, my step-daughter loves the camera and is very eager to learn with me. CC appriciated.

Thanks guys!

Great start! BTW - your step daughter is very pretty.

I used to own a 40d and am familiar with the camera. It has a magenta cast to all of it's white-balance settings and I can see the cast in your portrait photos.

In order to correct this, I've had to shoot in Raw and use a whibal. If you're not familiar with whibal check out this video tutorial: http://www.whibalhost.com/_Tutorials/WhiBal/01/index.html

Hope that helps. Good luck with your shooting.

[Hinson]

...Now I gotta find how to get better reflection from the other side and get less light on the backdrop.
I know I have rambled because there is so much I want to learn.
I tried the modeling light but it is little help with the umbrella in place.
I guess my question for now is... Always manual exposure? If not then how do you meter light from the flash with out buying a light meter.

When shooting through an umbrelly, it is going to be almost impossible to keep spill light off the background. Another option is to move your subject further forward so that the spill on the background is at least 1-2 stops darker than the subject. This will cause the background to go black. If you can't move the subject, move the light in close and that will give a similar effect.

Use your reflector (up close, opposite the light) to lighten the shadows. However, again, using a shoot through umbrella will soften the light hitting the reflector and reduce limit its use. I would suggest you move your umbrella around toward the front of the subject at about a 45degree angle and move it in close. This will allow the light to 'wrap' your subject but still give some modeling. Try it and post your results.

[SkipD]

David If you move your subject further from the background and use a larger aperture (smaller f-stop number), you can blur out the creases and other features in the background. That would help to separate your subject from the "busy" background.

In order to use a larger aperture, you will need to dim your lighting to keep the exposure correct.

[GDHugh]

Thanks guys. She is sitting about 4' from the backdrop. The shoot-thru umbrella is about 3' to her left at a 45* from the camera. The 48" reflector is about 2' to her right and about 90* to the camera. I shot at 1/320s, ISO100, f/7.1 I selected f/7.1 because I this lens maxs out at f/5.6 @ 50mm and I didn't want to shoot it wide open.
I think I'll move her away from the backdrop to about 6' and try f5.6 and maybe turn the umbrell around and bounce off it to help keep some of the light off the background. What ya'll think? I'll get some more done latter this week.

My original question is still a simple one. Do I have any options to shooting manual exposure? So I guess when I'm shooting manual, the camera is just gonna flash underexposure warning the whole time so I just wanted to know to expect and get used to.

[Hinson]

Always manual. Your ABs do not have ATTL/ETTL functionality. And yes, the camera will always show (flash the underexposure warning) underexposed because it is only seeing the ambient.

[elwood58]

I have found that my Canon XTi shoots 1-2 stops underexposed when using the Sekonic L-308s meter. So even when I think I am in the ideal F/8 setup, I have to open up a stop or two.

Have fun.

[GDHugh]

Always manual. Your ABs do not have ATTL/ETTL functionality. And yes, the camera will always show (flash the underexposure warning) underexposed because it is only seeing the ambient.


Thanks, Logically I was thinking that would have to be but just wanted the conformation.