Polarizer for Tamron AF 28-75mm

[breadiu]

Does anyone have a recommendation for a good polarizer for the Tamron AF 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di LD?

I can't see how I'll be able to use my hood and a polarizer. If anyone on the board is using a polarizer, I'd be grateful for some info.

Thanks.

[RPCrowe]

Polarizers are great but, a cheap polarizer will deteriorate your image far more than it will improve it. At times photographers horrified at the cost of a top-line filter have opted for the lower rated filters (and surprisingly Canon is a lower rated filter) or purchased eBay filters from an unknown source. It really depends upon how critical you are regarding the quality of your imagery.

One of the best polarizer and best filters in general is B&W (made by the German company, Schneider). B&W filters are expensive but you get what you pay for. I have several Schneider filters including CPL filters and I think that they are great.

An alternate to the B&W is the Multi Coated Hoya Pro 1 HMC. The Pro 1 is a good filter and I have a few of these also. However I have found that the Hoya seems a bit more difficult to clean since it seems prone to streaking. Note: Hoya makes several grades of filters and only the top-line are acceptable to me - however, again it depends on how critical you are regarding your imagery.

You do not need a slim-mount filter for your lens. The slim filters are usually more expensive than standard mount filters and are only needed on "some" ultra-wide lenses.

Now for the "Buy from U.S. distributor or buy from Hong Kong" question. I am not going to address that one... There are folks on both sides of that argument.

Here are several ways to use a polarizer in conjunction with a lens hood. They are listed from the most difficult to IMO the easiest:

Grow fingers like the Grinch - eight inches long and a quarter of an inch wide so you can get between hood and filter in order to rotate the CPL. No matter how many times I have suggested this method - for some reason no one has ever taken me up on it.

Cut a port at the bottom (definitely not the top) of the hood with a Dremyl tool so you can access the filter. That is beyond the scope of my Dremyl tool using ability; although some photographers (seriously - the previous method was meant as a joke) have done it with at least some measure of success. However, I would worry about flare from this port if I were shooting across a reflective surface like snow or water.

Take the hood off, rotate the filter and remount the hood. No special Dremyl talent or finger growing ability required.

Do what I do with all but my widest lenses and I tend not to use CPL filters with UW lenses because the polarization is sometimes uneven; either ruining the image or causing a Photoshop editing problem. Use a circular, screw-in metal hood. Mount the filter onto the filter threads of your lens and the hood to the female threads of the filter. Then, simply rotate the hood.

In answer to some folks who have written objections to this method:

1. The circular, screw in, metal hood (which I will call a screw-in from now on) will not vignette images except for the widest lenses.

2. The screw-in will shade your lens as well as the OEM filter

3. The screw-in will protect your lens; as least as well if not better than an OEM hood. I fell on concrete with my 30D, 24-70mm f/2.8L lens, and screw-in hitting first. My over 200 pound weight broke the screw-in but my lens was undamaged. For folks who say that the OEM hood will protect the lens better; I have offered to repeat the accident with THEIR CAMERA, LENS AND HOOD at no charge except what it would cost to ship what was left of their gear back to them.

4. The screw-in is far less expensive than the OEM hoods and even less expensive than the Chinese rip-offs of OEM hoods offered on eBay.

IMO the screw-in has other advantages

It is generally smaller and can be either be stored attached to the lens or reversed. I tend to use at least two camera bodies. My favorite combination is one camera around my neck with a 17-55mm f/2.8 IS lens (on which I use the OEM because of vignetting at the wider focal lengths) or a 24-70mm f/2.8L with a screw-in and another camera with a 70-200mm f/4L IS lens in a holster case at my side. With the screw-in on the 70-200mm; I can fit it into my Tamrac Zoom 19 case and have it ready to shoot as soon as I take the lens from the case. I use an OPTECH Hood Hat in lieu of lens caps for all screw-in equipped lenses. The Hood Hat will really protect a lens. (No... I did not have one on my lens when I fell because I was shooting).