Macbook Calibration help

[jargaguy]

I've just calibrated my Macbook and realized an alarming fact. There are no color sliders for the monitor. It only has a brightness control. I use a Spyder2 Clorimeter to calibrate and uncheck all the options so that the software itself sets the color and calibrates it.

When done I exit the ap and run it again, but this time check the color slider box which allows me to manually adjust the color settings. Prior to that it takes a reading of the color space and tells me the Kelvin and luminence readings. The kelvin reads 6140 with 134 cd/m2. I've calibrated 2 times and always get similar readings. The Red and Blue bars are low and the Green is sky high.

Is there anyway to fix this? Why are there no individual color controls? Does the MacBook Pro have this same feature. What about the Cinema displays?



Thanks for the help!



JA

[adblink]

my laptop screen doesnt have any controls either, the software just did it all itself because I couldn't change anything

[jargaguy]

How do you know if it's calibrated properly though?

[René Damkot]

Just let the calibrator do it's thing.
You don't want to adjust any color sliders anyway. Use the screens native setting.
All you need to adjust is the brightness.

[jargaguy]

What would the native settings on a macbook be? I usually just calibrate over the previously calibrated space?

What about a desktop monitor? I've got a Acer monitor which lets me adjust color sliders. I do that ang real close to 6500K & 140cd/m2. albeit takes me about 10 minutes of tweaking, but I feel sure i've gottne the right settings.


JA

[Tareq]

I have the same problem as i am using spyder3 for my Macbook Pro and my PC desktop CRT, and i got those messages or alerts that i have to do or adjust something, and after long time i finished but still i am not sure at all that i did calibrate properly, so i forgot it, i can't ask this many times and even with many links about calibration and color managements i can't find a true straight answer, i was looking for a link that show how to calibrate by images examples step by step with different troublesome or conditions for example so i can follow and know that i did calibrate correct way.

[ebann]

I was doing my monitor calibration just this past Sunday. I have the same Spyder2 and a Apple Cinema 23 HD Display. I downloaded the Spyder2express software and used that instead so that I don't have to waste too much time figuring out this calibration process. I'm sure the fixed gamma and temperature is good enough for me. I left everything un-selected for monitor control and set the brightness to maximum.

Q: does Lightroom automatically use the created color profile?

[Rumjungle]

Just let your colorimeter and software do the work and then order some prints from a lab. All that matters is that they match.

[jargaguy]

I was doing my monitor calibration just this past Sunday. I have the same Spyder2 and a Apple Cinema 23 HD Display. I downloaded the Spyder2express software and used that instead so that I don't have to waste too much time figuring out this calibration process. I'm sure the fixed gamma and temperature is good enough for me. I left everything un-selected for monitor control and set the brightness to maximum.

Q: does Lightroom automatically use the created color profile?


Thanks. So, the Cinema Displays have fixed controls as well? Can you adjust RGB levels? I bought the Spyder2 Suite thinking the Printer profiler would help...it didn't. The software I have is not the express. Do you think there is a difference?

Is maximum brightness too bright?


JA

[ebann]

Thanks. So, the Cinema Displays have fixed controls as well? Can you adjust RGB levels? I bought the Spyder2 Suite thinking the Printer profiler would help...it didn't. The software I have is not the express. Do you think there is a difference?

Is maximum brightness too bright?


JA

23" Cinema HD has no controls other than brightness. The express has fixed gamma and fixed temperature (the standards). The normal software has the choice of two gammas and 3 temperatures. I have not yet learned enough to know what I need/want so I went with the express setup.

It's amazing how much brighter the Cinema is compared to my Dell 2001FP display (I use dual-monitor DVI). I use the Cinema for Lightroom and everything else on the Dell.

[Rumjungle]

I originally got the Spyder2 Suite to save money over some higher end colorimeters. So far, I have not been disappointed with it's performance on my Dell LCD and Mitsubishi tube monitors. I do wish I could get my hands on the Pro software though for multi-monitor calibration. Other than that, my prints are coming out exactly as expected and I only adjust for the black and white levels (the rest is done by the Spyder).

[ebann]

I downloaded the express version from their site and my serial number worked fine with it even though I had the Spyder2 standard version. The Pro is also available for download but I have not tested to see if it works/requires my serial number. Seems a little abandoned due to the fact that the software is still PowerPC and not Universal Binary.

[ejwebb]

How is everyone doing with the Spyder2 and Macbook? Is there a trick to getting this to work?

I have a Spyder2, downloaded the latest software from Colorvision and ran through the process twice. I am not happy with the results.

The calibrated profile results in a magenta-tinted cast in the monitor - and is too dark as well. I tried this in a room with normal lighting and once completely dark with the same results. I think I will try one more time with the brightness at 50% and see what happens.

Prints from my i9100 are much closer (surprisingly close, in fact) using the stock LCD profile from the factory. In fact, Ill just go with that if I can't get better results from the spyder2.

I'll go on record in saying that the Spyder2 has worked fine with my 10+ year old CRT monitor, although the CRT is starting to deteriorate lately.

I am happy with the MacBook screen - especially compared to other laptops I have used lately - but it just looks like the Soyder2 is not compatible...

[Pete]

Yes, the Macbook does have calibration. On my MBP (running leopard), I can go into the System Preferences dialog, then "Display" and then the "colour" tab. There you'll see a button for "Calibration".

Hit that and you can mess up your screen as much as you like...

[ejwebb]

Following is the response I received from ColorVision. I'll try reducing the brightness tonight and see what kind of results I get - had it on 100% for my previous attempts.

On a MacBook or MacBook Pro it is very important to unplug all USB peripherals
during calibration such as external hard drives and printers.

Now, prior to calibration on a Macintosh system, ensure within your system
preferences > energy saver, sleep modes are set to “never� during
calibration, also set the screen saver to never.

Also ensure you change the automatic brightness feature to off, should you have
this feature.

One more thing if your luminance is set to high a color cast could occur, set
your brightness to 50% for starters and calibrate. In most cases an LCD monitor
is twice as bright compared to any CRT.

This is subjective so if the screen looks too dark readjust and recalibrate.

[ejwebb]

Well, I turned the brightness down to 50% and it helped - a bit.

However, I then adjusted the puck in the little frame that you use for the LCD monitors so that it was tilted backwards a bit from the top - looking up at the monitor at an angle. This change helped A LOT. The new profile is MUCH better - actually looks very good and very close to the print from my i9100.

I think the glossy surface on these screens has a magenta tint at certain angles and it interferes with the color reading process. Hopefully this slight adjustment to the angle of the puck has done the trick.

Maybe this post can help someone else in the same boat...

[Tareq]

I printed few more shots using my MacBook Pro only connected to my Epson, all what i can say is WOW, i got the prints Exactly what i see on monitor.



Sorry, i got prints much better than what i see on monitor, so i think my calibration was correct.

Good luck.

[ejwebb]

Well, I turned the brightness down to 50% and it helped - a bit.

However, I then adjusted the puck in the little frame that you use for the LCD monitors so that it was tilted backwards a bit from the top - looking up at the monitor at an angle. This change helped A LOT. The new profile is MUCH better - actually looks very good and very close to the print from my i9100.

I think the glossy surface on these screens has a magenta tint at certain angles and it interferes with the color reading process. Hopefully this slight adjustment to the angle of the puck has done the trick.

Maybe this post can help someone else in the same boat...

Well, after looking at things today I take it all back. Spyder2 calibration on the Macbook screen still sucks!!

Default profile is still way better - and good enough unless someone else comes up with a solution. Anyone interested in a used Spyder2?

[jargaguy]

Well, after looking at things today I take it all back. Spyder2 calibration on the Macbook screen still sucks!!

Default profile is still way better - and good enough unless someone else comes up with a solution. Anyone interested in a used Spyder2?


Hey ej. I think you've got a regular Macbook (not Pro) right? So do I. I have a Spyder2 as well and don't really print from here, but do show clients and potential clients my galleries.

About that 50% brightness thing...I have tried calibrating on different levels of the little white blocks. I lowered it to 3/4 at one point because I had read the same thing you said about the contrast. However, after reading Martin Evenings book http://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/isbnInquiry.asp?z=y&EAN=9780240520285&itm=1
I read about what is the appropriate settings for a LCD...here is an excerpt...
The target luminance will vary according
which type of display you are using. A
typical modern LCD display will have a
luminance of 200 candelas M2 or more at
the maximum luminance setting, which
is way too bright for image editing work
in subdued office lighting conditions.
And with older CRT monitors you may be
lucky to reach the desired target of 100
candelas M2 (a sure sign that the display
is due for retirement). A target of around
140 candelas M2 is ideal for a desktop LCD
monitor display.


I can get my Desktop LCD to read 140 on the dot, but the MacBook is not so nice. I set the brightness to 1 block less than full and I get a 146 candela reading. Close enough I guess. When I print now...I also had my printer calibrated, they look very good!

Try that and let me know how it works for you.



JA

[ejwebb]

Hey ej. I think you've got a regular Macbook (not Pro) right? So do I. I have a Spyder2 as well and don't really print from here, but do show clients and potential clients my galleries.

About that 50% brightness thing...I have tried calibrating on different levels of the little white blocks. I lowered it to 3/4 at one point because I had read the same thing you said about the contrast. However, after reading Martin Evenings book http://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/isbnInquiry.asp?z=y&EAN=9780240520285&itm=1
I read about what is the appropriate settings for a LCD...here is an excerpt...


I can get my Desktop LCD to read 140 on the dot, but the MacBook is not so nice. I set the brightness to 1 block less than full and I get a 146 candela reading. Close enough I guess. When I print now...I also had my printer calibrated, they look very good!

Try that and let me know how it works for you.



JA

Thanks for the suggestions - how do you check candela reading? Also, what product do you use to calibrate the monitor?

Really, though, I ran some print tests today from my MacBook and desktop and the monitors and prints are all very close - close enough for me, at least. I tried for perfection in all this a few years ago and it was just not worth the effort or cost. I just don't have it in me to fight this fight over the remaining differences.

I knew the MacBook screen was not the best when I bought it but couldn't spend twice as much for a MBP. After today's testing - and working out the soft-proofing in CS3, I am very happy with what I have...

[akhater]

I have the exact same problem of a red tint with Syper2. What solved the problem is to set WhitePoint to Native instead of 6500 but the end result is still very dark even though my brightness is set to max.

[ejwebb]

I have the exact same problem of a red tint with Syper2. What solved the problem is to set WhitePoint to Native instead of 6500 but the end result is still very dark even though my brightness is set to max.

Hmmm... I may try it sometime, although I really am pretty happy with the default settings now - everything is very close to the prints. The bigger issue to me is the variability of the screen depending on the viewing angle. You really have to be careful to view from exactly the right spot.

Have you tried turning your brightness down to halfway during the calibration? It may help brighten up the result...

[akhater]

Have you tried turning your brightness down to halfway during the calibration? It may help brighten up the result...

You mean reduce the brightness during calibration and then push it up again when using it ?

[René Damkot]

From this test (http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/content_page.asp?cid=7-8741-9027#wait), the opposite might work...