View Full Version : Soccer shooting tips needed...
MT Stringer
3rd of February 2008 (Sun), 19:47
This coming week, I'll be shooting some high school soccer at a tournament. I'd appreciate any tips you soccer shooters can pass on.
Specifically, where do you set up and what is your thinking (game plan) for capturing good shots.
NOTE: I'll be using a 20D w/Sigma 120-300 f/2.8 w/1.4xTC.
Here is a link to my efforts so far:
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=447262
Thanks
Mike
Playonpics.com
3rd of February 2008 (Sun), 22:22
i'm by no means anything of great photographer to Soccer... BUT,
My experience with soccer is one, run the side lines. I find once the goal gets the ball and is going to kick it, i ready myself to the middle of the field for when the players recieve the kick to get them jumping up in the air for a headbunt:
http://www.playonpics.com/datas/users/1/t_xxs14.jpg
I know for the university that i shoot for, they want pics of the Logo of the team name with STFX on their jersey. Mostly i try to follow some players around when they are usually the most action players.. I know it may not be the best tactic... But it usually works for me...
I also found that if i couldn't get the action, or if you wanted to get the feel of the emotion of the game was to get pictures of the faces to see how much into the game they were/to get emotion... i don't know lol
http://www.playonpics.com/datas/users/1/xss100s.jpg
http://www.playonpics.com/datas/users/1/sx3s.jpg
I don't know not sure if that helps, but also for field goal shots or penalty i would try one shot behind the net just gives a different angle and you can potentiall get the emotion of the goal being scored by the players and get the emotion on the face when he does score...
Again not pro, and probably below amateur but just my thoughts...
gmen
4th of February 2008 (Mon), 08:46
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=129659
is worth a read.
---- Gavin
ooo
28th of September 2008 (Sun), 08:14
You could always get the sigma 10-20 it works on full frame but be prepared for vignetting
namasste
28th of September 2008 (Sun), 10:23
Mike, here's a couple tips that might help...with the 120-300 and a tc, you can cover a good bit of the pitch from the goal line or close. this is great for getting faces in high intensity moments as the ball is moved downfield although when they get close, you're toast. another issue is that much of the battle is fought near midfield. I usually set up first camp around midfield to ensure I'll have some usable images and to watch how the game unfolds. If it becomes apparent that one side is dominant, I'll move the opposite goal to get some good offensive action. If its a tight match, then pick an end and shoot for a bit, then switch.
convergent
28th of September 2008 (Sun), 11:39
You have a good arc of the field covered with that lens... I use a 400 w/TC1.4 and I'll take it on and off throughout the game depending on where the action seems to be happening. If you have enough light, you should be good with keeping it on all the time. I would pick a corner of the field and work up the sideline about 1/4 of the way and then back and around the end line depending on what is going on. I generally get more action if I'm on the side right side (defending), just because most kickers are right footed and you'll get more action across the field from the right wings. Of course there are exceptions. With that lens, you should be in pretty good shape to cover things.
Big K
28th of September 2008 (Sun), 20:33
I generally let the light determine where I set up but use basically the same approach as Mike C mentioned above. I tend to spend more time at about 1/4 field than anywhere as it gives me good tight coverage of both mid field and the closest goal. Most of the fields here run north south so shooting from the end gives me the dreaded half light half shadow effect for most games.
Good luck. I personally hate watching soccer but have found that it is one of my favorite sports to shoot because of the constant movement and one-on-one matchups. I would love to shoot some top tier players like many of our photo friends in Europe get to do.
mhackney
29th of September 2008 (Mon), 18:49
You might find the series I wrote and posted on my blog "Practical Guide for Youth Soccer Photography" (http://eclecticguy.com/photography/) helpful. I've received a lot of positive comments about it - especially the Part A on general tips.
cheers
Michael
rabidcow
29th of September 2008 (Mon), 20:21
Patience.
Wait for the action to get close to you, when you see that, plan your shot, compose and shoot.
Many new and inexperienced will run the sidelines back and forth trying to keep up with the action. You will get tired and annoyed doing so. Spend about 10 minutes or so just watching the game. See how the teams play. What side do they favor? Who are the strong players? Who is willing to give it all? Who is not?
You need to watch the game progress, and then start shooting, otherwise you are wasting time. Shoot single shot, "machine gunning" is the sure sign of a photographer that does not have timing.
Timing comes with........patience.
Roy Webber
29th of September 2008 (Mon), 22:36
One from the weekend, and more on my website
Torcidas
30th of September 2008 (Tue), 01:44
I can say best tip for shooting soccer is to follow player who have ball and when he come in range just press and start burst pictures:)
Here is my gallery with soccer pictures:
http://www.hnkhajduk.com/galerija/index.php
silvex
30th of September 2008 (Tue), 02:09
This are my tips.
I would introduce myself to the coaches and let them know you will be shooting. Ask then the DOs and DON'Ts and make sure you follow them. Remember: you are not playing.
1) Shoot wide open (f2.8 in the sigma case), Av Ai-servo high fps.
2) Adjust ISO to get shutter above 1/500 MINIMUM.
3) Use monopod.
4) don't just look for the goal action, look for any action.
5) don't stay on the same spot.
6) for nite make a custom WB balance EVEN if you shoot raw.
7) get there early.
8 ) don't chimp on every shot.
9) after a GOL look for emotional shots (sad, happy, disappointments)
10) crop tight. Take anything out that does not add to the subject. CROPS (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showpost.php?p=6408063&postcount=13)
11) if you miss a shot ( and you will ) move on, don't sweat it.
12) if the camera misses focus (and it will) move on, don't sweat it.
13) Follow the school rules for shooting (call in advance).
14) shoot raw (see #6)
15) get the rooster so you can add caption to the choosen captures.
16) have fun and more fun. (see #16 :) )
17) be prepare for the field and weather (cold, rain, hot, humid) and bring knee pads.
Daytime Men's Soccer Photos (http://silvex.smugmug.com/gallery/5937409_q8gxi#369888526_SizRx)
Nightime Women's Soccer Photos (http://silvex.smugmug.com/gallery/5942613_KeuLW#369899290_nu5JX)
Big K
30th of September 2008 (Tue), 02:35
This are my tips.
I would introduce myself to the coaches and let them know you will be shooting. Ask then the DOs and DON'Ts and make sure you follow them. Remember: you are not playing.
1) Shoot wide open (f2.8 in the sigma case)
2) Adjust ISO to get shutter above 1/500 MINIMUM.
3) Use monopod.
4) don't just look for the goal action, look for any action.
5) don't stay on the same spot.
6) for nite make a custom WB balance EVEN if you shoot raw.
7) get there early.
8 ) don't chimp on every shot.
9) after a GOL look for emotional shots (sad, happy, disappointments)
10) crop tight. Take anything out that does not add to the subject.
11) if you miss a shot ( and you will ) move on, don't sweat it.
12) if the camera misses focus (and it will) move on, don't sweat it.
13) Follow the school rules for shooting (call in advanced).
14) shoot raw.
15) get the rooster so you can add caption to the choosen captures.
16) have fun and more fun.
17) be prepare for the filed and weather (cold, rain, hot, humid) and bring knee pads.
Daytime Men's Soccer Photos (http://silvex.smugmug.com/gallery/5937409_q8gxi#369888526_SizRx)
Nightime Women's Soccer Photos (http://silvex.smugmug.com/gallery/5942613_KeuLW#369899290_nu5JX)
Nice summary and advice. Will only add that the word MINIMUM in #2 is capitalized for a very good reason and should not be an option until f/2.8 (or max of your lens) and max usable ISO is reached.
namasste
30th of September 2008 (Tue), 08:37
Ed, great summary and +1000 for 1/500 min. I should also add that it seems most players are right foot dominant so consider the motion of shooting and position accordingly. When I shoot goalline, I tend to spend more time to the right (my right as I face the pitch) of the goal as it tends to lead to more faces as they cut towards the goal and aid sin easy composition. If the top player is left foot dominant (the top players will likely use both though) then adjust accordingly there. Not something taht will make or break you but it seems to bump the keeper rate a bit when shooting goal line.
bobbyz
30th of September 2008 (Tue), 10:29
Another tip, just like other field sports, shoot from a lower angle. With 500mm f4, I will stay put and shoot from behind the goal lines. With 300mm, I think you need to move more depending on where the action is. But running all over the field like suggested by some is impossible, IMHO.
aram535
1st of October 2008 (Wed), 00:02
Although I follow the same rule, at times I think it might be worth it to lock in a 1/500 or faster speed rather than locking in the 2.8. The camera is going to go with the lowest f-stop it can @ 1/500 and that is IMHO the minimum speed for most soccer games (college+). I would increase ISO to keep the f/stop low if you need to recover some light back. Removing the TC will also give you another stop back. f/2.8 vs f/4, which makes a huge difference close up.
namasste
1st of October 2008 (Wed), 08:30
Although I follow the same rule, at times I think it might be worth it to lock in a 1/500 or faster speed rather than locking in the 2.8. The camera is going to go with the lowest f-stop it can @ 1/500 and that is IMHO the minimum speed for most soccer games (college+). I would increase ISO to keep the f/stop low if you need to recover some light back. Removing the TC will also give you another stop back. f/2.8 vs f/4, which makes a huge difference close up.
Aram, I think I might be misunderstanding but unless you are shooting with an f2 or f1.8 lens, when you lock in f2.8 in Av, you are going to get the fastest shutter available. I still think you're best to use Av over Tv and open up as wide as you can (including removing the tc if needed as you mentioned). Then start bumping ISO until you get reasonable speeds or run out of ISO in which case, its time to become a spectator or get out the flash guns.
aram535
1st of October 2008 (Wed), 10:15
You can ignore it, I was just thinking out loud -- now that I read it after a good night sleep it doesn't make much sense to me either.
The TC stuff still applies though, adding a 1.4x (one stop) or 2x (two stops) will effect your aperture size. 2.8->4.0->5.6 (assuming 70-200 f/2.8).
100-400 f/4-5.6 will go up to f/11 with a 2x TC @ 400mm.
namasste
1st of October 2008 (Wed), 10:21
You can ignore it, I was just thinking out loud -- now that I read it after a good night sleep it doesn't make much sense to me either.
The TC stuff still applies though, adding a 1.4x (one stop) or 2x (two stops) will effect your aperture size. 2.8->4.0->5.6 (assuming 70-200 f/2.8).
100-400 f/4-5.6 will go up to f/11 with a 2x TC @ 400mm.
lol! yeah, the tc stuff is absolutely true.
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