My 2nd attempt at panning

[yzaddict106]

Let me know what you think!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v468/yzaddict106/IMG_7015.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v468/yzaddict106/IMG_7315copy.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v468/yzaddict106/IMG_7318.jpg

C&C welcome!

DJ

[canonrebel]

Nice effort, you have captured some motion blur so your technique is OK

[disneydork06]

nice shots! how fast was ur shutter? j/w.

[petrolhead]

Looks like the shutter speed was 1/125 and f/8 at 70mm

I think your setting are about right and you just need to practice practice practice :)

[John Thawley]

These might be a touch soft.. on the subject. The best one (middle) was shot at 1/125.. the first was 1/80th.

In practice, though... getting it sharp is getting sharp, regardless of the shutter speed. The quicker will be more fogiving... and the slower shutter will always soften at the outer perimeters of the subject. But, if your technique is sound, (ie, smooth, steady and on-target) your main point of focus should be sharp.

Also, you were shooting with a 70mm. That means you were fairly close to the subject... I'm guessing. The closer to the subject you stand, the quicker your panning motion is going to be. You need to back up, shoot a longer focal length and pan with a smooth rhythm. If you're swinging the camera too fast, you'll be jerky... too slow, and you'll be wobbly. Like a golfer, you need to be smooth and consistent... in other words, develop your swing. Then, choose the correct lens (just like the golfer chooses a club) to make your shot. Sure, you'll adjust your swing a little here and there... but a smooth steady swing is what creates good pan shots.

Here's one shot at 1/30th - this was shot at night with no flash.

http://gallery.johnthawley.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=106483&g2_serialNumber=1

Keep in mind things will change when the car is traveling at an angle toward you. In relationship to the face of the lens, the front is traveling faster than the rear. In that case, you'll need to select WHAT part of your subject you want in focus. Again, this phenomenon will be exaggerated at slower shutter speeds.

Also at 1/30th:

http://gallery.johnthawley.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=106989&g2_serialNumber=1

JT

[freebird]

I like the last two very much. I would selectively sharpen the rider and bike only on those two!

Good work,
Chuck

[akmoose]

Well Done! I agree with "petrolhead" ..."Practice ...")! Do you have Image stabilizer on the lens? If so, make sure that it is set to the Panning mode on the lens. It helped me a lot. Again, nice job.

[penodr]

Very nice work, love the second photo.

[John Thawley]

Well Done! I agree with "petrolhead" ..."Practice ...")! Do you have Image stabilizer on the lens? If so, make sure that it is set to the Panning mode on the lens. It helped me a lot. Again, nice job.

There is no such things as "panning" mode. The variable is based only on the horizontal or vertical axis or a both. TURN IS OFF!!!! It does nothing but slow down your autofocus.

JT

[willy b]

2nd photo is really good!

[akmoose]

There is no such things as "panning" mode. The variable is based only on the horizontal or vertical axis or a both. TURN IS OFF!!!! It does nothing but slow down your autofocus.

JT

Holy Smokes, I could have swore that my Canon 100-400mm IS lens came with an Image stabilizer switch for mode 1 & 2 (#2 for Panning) at least thats what their website states. So, I guess that it does exist.

Upon further research I find that it does slow down the auto focus a bit and that would explain why I usually end up with more blurry shots than I would like. I will "TURN IS OFF" next time and give it a try. Thanks for the heads up. ;)

[jdilldesigns]

Must say good job!

[John Thawley]

Holy Smokes, I could have swore that my Canon 100-400mm IS lens came with an Image stabilizer switch for mode 1 & 2 (#2 for Panning) at least thats what their website states.

That would be called "marketing hype." :)

There's no such thing as "panning mode." IS "might" buy you an extra stop in low light... when you're out of stops. At that point, it will HELP eliminate tremble. Not the shakes... only tremble.

[inverseSquare]

That would be called "marketing hype." :)

There's no such thing as "panning mode." IS "might" buy you an extra stop in low light... when you're out of stops. At that point, it will HELP eliminate tremble. Not the shakes... only tremble.


Is this general practise with IS lenses ? I've never heard of IS slowing the AF...

For lenses with 2 mode IS i've always used one-axis-mode for panning...



Thanks.

[MX962]

Is this general practise with IS lenses ? I've never heard of IS slowing the AF...

For lenses with 2 mode IS i've always used one-axis-mode for panning...



Thanks.

I have no real eperience with IS yet as all my lenses are non stabilized, But from what I hear it has somthing to do with the lens elements moving "counter acting" lens shake thus imparing focus some what. But as said I dont know this for fact yet !

[Gary Lindquist]

You did good!

[John Thawley]

Is this general practise with IS lenses ? I've never heard of IS slowing the AF...

For lenses with 2 mode IS i've always used one-axis-mode for panning...



Thanks.

Yes... listen to the lens. You'll hear it humming and then (looking through the glass) you'll see the focus "pop" into place. I found it also causes a little "hunting" as well. It's also pulling on your batteries.

But the logic behind the idea you can stabilize a camera through that much movement (panning) is .. well, illogical. IS can only handle "tremble." Read the manual... if you are shooting hand held at your widest aperture and your shutter speed is below what you'd normally hand hold, you can probably pick up 1 to 1 and 1/2 stops.

So, if you don't have a smooth pan to begin with, IS isn't going to save it. Sure... there may be that instant where it "might" improve it... but I wouldn't count on it.

JT

[sapatorra]

I think they look great, love the middle one most!!