Graduated/Split ND Filters-Cokin setup

[spaceman]

I have used circular filters in the past, but now I'm starting to take a serious look at the square ones. Could any of you recommend what I would need to set up a Cokin type system for my 300D? I know I need adapters, holders, etc, but I'm a little lost here. Do I need a separate adapter for each lens size? My primary landscape lens is the 17-40L. Thanks.

Alan

[jobe]

Hi Spaceman

I use the cokin system for my filters, you do need a different lens attachment for each size lens, but the cokin filter holder clips onto the lens ring, hope that makes sense, I will attach some photos to make it a bit clearer if you like.

[spaceman]

Hi Spaceman

I use the cokin system for my filters, you do need a different lens attachment for each size lens, but the cokin filter holder clips onto the lens ring, hope that makes sense, I will attach some photos to make it a bit clearer if you like.

No, that is fine. Since I posted this I have been doing some online research, and Iwas just confused about the adapters(s). I think I'm going to go with this setup. Do you use the P series? Thanks

Alan

[iwatkins]

Alan,

Use at least the P series on the 17-40 you'll need the size for the wide angle end.

Cheers

Ian

[PhotosGuy]

No, that is fine. Since I posted this I have been doing some online research, and Iwas just confused about the adapters(s). I think I'm going to go with this setup..

I used to use the Conkin filters for film, but not anymore. Now I shoot RAW, extract two different exposures & blend them together as in:
http://luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/digital-blending.shtml

Also see "Why I love RAW - '53 Ford Sunliner (Fixed)"
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=306177#306177

If you don't have PS, go to GIMP.org & get it. It's very similar to PS & has extensive help files & tutorials.

Try it both ways & you'll probably leave the filters at home too.

[spaceman]

Try it both ways & you'll probably leave the filters at home too.

I have done it in PS Elements/ PSP but I would prefer to do this in the field. Less time in front of the computer, the better for me. Besides, I like to tinker with the gear. :wink: Thanks for the link, though. I do need the practice with my software.

Alan

[RichardtheSane]

I agree with spaceman here.

Digital blending is great, but there is nothing like the feeling of getting it right in the field ;)

After doing plenty of digital blending and coming up with my own technique I am still not happy so am ordering a cokin P system setup for my ND/ND grads and warm ups.

[Sam North]

Software techniques can very be useful, but I agree - do all you can to record as much detail as possible in the field. Taking double exposures usually means your camera is on a tripod anyway, so use the grey grad if the sky is a problem.

But remember when necessary to shield the lens from strong light.

RAW will certainly help you wring out every bit of recorded data, but it makes more sense in landscape photography, where there are often contast issues, to record more data in the first place. As I've said elsewhere, :wink: DSLRs are not great performers when it comes to recording highlights.



You may come across knowledgeable photographers who write about “the shoulder portion of the D/log E curve” and how film “tends to roll off smoothly in the shadows and highlights.” They use terms like these to describe the efficient way film – especially negative film – responds to light. Unlike film, however, the sensors in DSLRs do not have the capacity to gradually and smoothly cope with highlight information. In the real world this means that the brightest areas of the scene can all too easily retain no information at all – no image data is present, just pure white. The sensor abruptly blows it.

This means that DSLR photographers, especially those who shoot landscapes, for example, will need to do all they can to accommodate the highlights, referring constantly to the histogram. (Note that the histogram does not tell the whole story, because it displays overall luminosity, not the brightness of individual colour channels. Bracketing is the solution here.) Digital blending or a grey graduated filter is often essential to balance the brightness of the sky with the land, and bracketing is recommended. If you are new to DSLR photography, try experimenting with the RAW format so that you can exercise more control over highlight detail. When the image is converted, levels and curves in image-editing software can be used to fine-tune the image further still.

Generally speaking, the DSLR photographer should expose with the highlights in mind: that is to say, he should take care not to blow the brightest parts of the image, although much smaller blown highlights do not take away from the overall appearance of the shot, and are sometimes unavoidable. The digital blending of differently exposed shots is extremely useful when there are highlight areas within the scene that need to be balanced with shadow detail. (Highlights are not normally a concern when using negative film. Instead, it’s more important to make sure you hold detail in the shadows since it’s unlikely the highlights will be lost. Always meter off a mid-tone, and it may in fact be useful to overexpose negative film slightly.)

“Meter a medium-toned area as medium and the whites will be white, and the blacks, black” is not particularly good advice for the DSLR photographer. It’s helpful to push the exposure to the point where the histogram shows more information to the right of the display, without the abrupt peaks that indicate blown highlights.

Sam

[spaceman]

I agree with spaceman here.

Digital blending is great, but there is nothing like the feeling of getting it right in the field ;)

After doing plenty of digital blending and coming up with my own technique I am still not happy so am ordering a cokin P system setup for my ND/ND grads and warm ups.

Hi Everyone,

My primary landscape lens is a 17-40L. Do you think that a Cokin P (85x85mm) setup is enough for this lens without vignetting problems or should I go with a 100mm holder so I can use 100x150mm filters? Would this give me more latitude regarding movement/positioning of filters? Also, I plan on getting more than one grad ND, but can only budget for two right now, so what would you suggest for a start? I'm thinking 1 ND.6 (soft), and 1 ND.9 (hard). Would this be good for starters? Thanks.

Alan

[Hot Opal]

Are the generic holders 1st class or should I buy the genuine Cokin or Lee holder?

[robertwgross]

Cokin filter holders are cheap enough.

Most of my Canon lenses are 72mm or 77mm in front, and that fits to the P holder.

---Bob Gross---

[Warman]

A friend of mine bought a clone chinese cokin holder from ebay, the holder and adapter ring look sturdy enough and he doesnt have nay complains but the filters are a diferent matter. Stay away from those clone filters, they are weak flare magnets. Realy pays off to give that extra cash for the real thing. They arent even that expensive because they are easy to find used.