FAQ - EOS Flash - ** READ THIS FIRST **

[scottbergerphoto]

I have replaced the non functioning links. Let me know if there are problems.
Scott
Here are some useful and informative articles and threads on using Canon EOS Flash:
How does ETTLII work? (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=46311&highlight=ettlii)

The EOS Flash Bible (http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/)

How far can my flash go and what factors will influence it? (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=51728) (Now Working 1/5/05)

How can I use flash when my shutter speed is faster then the camera's maximum sync speed? (High Speed Sync-FP) (http://photonotes.org/cgi-bin/entry.pl?id=Highspeedsync) Look Here (http://www.photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=33872&highlight=high+speed+sync) as well.

Flash Techniques (http://www.dg28.com/technique.html) - (The author uses a Lumedyne head and pack, but you can substitute an off camera 550EX/580EX or any other Manual Flash for that matter-Quantum, Vivatar, Sigma. Just use a Wein Safe Sync for non dedicated flashes).

Using Multiple EX Flashes Wirelessly - One Perspective (http://www.sportsshooter.com/news/450) and Another (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=46778&highlight=)

How do I set up my ETTL/II flash for Fill Flash? (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=37681&highlight=fill+flash)

Which rechargeable batteries for my flash? (http://www.imaging-resource.com/ACCS/BATTS/BATTS.HTM) - Doesn't include high voltage packs like the Quantum Turbo/Turbo Z series. Those are Here (http://www.qtm.com/battery/index_battery.html)

Where can I get custom flash (PC, hot shoe, Pocket Wizard) cords? (http://www.paramountcords.com/)

Electronic Flash Information (http://www.chem.helsinki.fi/%7Etoomas/photo/flash-faq.html)

Troubleshooting an Electronic Flash (http://members.misty.com/don/samflash.html) - Not for the faint of heart!

Initial User Experiences with the the 580EX:
Here (http://www.robgalbraith.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=291327&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1)

Suggested Books:
Mastering Flash Photography by Susan McCartney (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0817445455/102-0531316-5247352?v=glance)

The Nikon Flash Guide by Thom Hogan (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1883403847/qid=1099016536/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/102-0531316-5247352?v=glance&s=books)

The Secrets of Lighting On Location by Bob Krist (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0817458239/qid=1099016402/sr=1-3/ref=sr_1_3/102-0531316-5247352?v=glance&s=books)

The Lighting Cook Book by Amphoto (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0817441964/102-4982622-2021754?v=glance)

More to come. If you have a link to a good source of EOS flash information, please post it.
Scott

[slin100]

Several of the links are broken.

This question arises quite often.
List of current EF lenses that report distance info (http://www.robgalbraith.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB18&Number=206785&Forum= All_Forums&Words=%2Bcurrent%20%2BEF%20%2Bdistance% 20%2Bcapability&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Main=206778& Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=&daterange=0&newerv al=&newertype=&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post 206785)

[scottbergerphoto]

Several of the links are broken.

This question arises quite often.
List of current EF lenses that report distance info (http://www.robgalbraith.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB18&Number=206785&Forum= All_Forums&Words=%2Bcurrent%20%2BEF%20%2Bdistance% 20%2Bcapability&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Main=206778& Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=&daterange=0&newerv al=&newertype=&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post 206785)
Some of the links are in the FAQ. If you don't have access to the FAQ, see below.
Scott

[scottbergerphoto]

"Red Eye" occurs when light from a flash, usually camera mounted, is reflected off the back of the subjects eyes and back to the camera. The red is the color of the blood filled vessels at the back of the eye or Retina. The smaller the angle between the flash and the subject, the more likely you will get "red eye". The best way to deal with this phenomenon is to prevent it. You do that by getting the flash off the camera on a bracket or in your hand and connected to the camera with a Canon "Off the Shoe Cord 2". That way you still have ETTL. You place the flash about 12 inches above the lens and pointed at the subject. It will also give some more depth to the picture. You might also try increasing the ambient light in the room if possible to reduce the size of the subject's pupils. Some cameras have a "red eye" reduction feature. The camera fires a flash before the flash (not to be confused with the pre-flash of the ETTL) to cause the subject's pupils to contract. The problem with this is that it makes your subjects look like their squinting and does nothing for that "headlights in the eyes" look.
In a pinch, most photo editing software has some method of removing "red eye" after the fact.
Scott

[scottbergerphoto]

Here is Chuck Westfall's post:
"E-TTL II is never linked to the active focusing point. In fact, that is one of the main differences between E-TTL II and the original version of E-TTL. There's a brief description of E-TTL II with sample images on Canon Inc.'s EOS-1D Mark II web site here.

Here's what we published in the EOS-1D Mark II White Paper document:

ADVANCED E-TTL II
New algorithm gives greater flash exposure control

For improved flash control using Canon EX series Speedlites, a new algorithm has been developed which enables superior E-TTL flash accuracy and reliability. In previous cameras, evaluative flash metering was based on the assumption that an autofocus point would cover the subject. When this is not the case, inaccurate flash exposures result. The EOS-1D Mark II’s evaluative flash metering is not dependent on the active AF point.

In the new algorithm, ambient light is measured when the shutter button is pressed. Next, a pre-flash is fired and the metering sensor takes readings at the central 17 metering zones. The ambient and pre-flash readings are compared. The metering areas having a small difference are selected as the flash exposure metering areas. (Areas with very big differences between ambient and pre-flash readings are excluded or down weighted because they are assumed to contain a highly reflective object or that the subject is not in that part of the frame. The algorithm avoids chronic underexposure problems in such situations.) These readings are weighted, averaged and compared with the ambient light reading, and the main flash output is then set and stored in memory. E-TTL II weights and averages the flash metering for the subject and all other objects at the same distance as the subject. Even if the subject’s position, reflectance or size changes, the flash output will not change radically. The flash exposure will be highly accurate and stable.

Most EF lenses provide distance information, and this data is also considered in determining if there is a highly reflective object, once again lessening the chance of underexposure.
************************************************** ***

Additional info on E-TTL II:

In essence, distance information is not required for E-TTL II. But when it is available and the flash is direct, then it can be used as a reference to modify the flash exposure if necessary.

Additionally, the EOS-1D Mark II is provided with a new Custom Function (C.Fn 14-1) that allows photographers to select between evaluative and averaged flash metering in E-TTL II. Averaged flash metering may be preferable when using direct flash with lenses that don't have a built-in distance encoder, but we encourage Mark II owners to try both settings on C.Fn 14 to see which metering method they prefer.

E-TTL II is functional with all EF lenses, not just the ones with distance data. If you use a lens without distance data, the only thing you lose is the Mark II's ability to modify the flash exposure based on distance data. Everything else works the same. The Mark II *never* falls back to E-TTL.

There's never any "full-frame" flash metering in E-TTL or E-TTL II. In both cases, with EOS cameras that use a 45-point focusing system/21-zone metering sensor, all flash metering is carried out by the 17 metering segments within the Area AF ellipse shown in the viewfinder. Subject matter outside the ellipse is completely ignored in terms of flash exposure control.

C.Fn 14-0 on a Mark II allows E-TTL II flash metering to be subject-based, so it can use anywhere from 1 to 17 metering segments depending on the camera's analysis of the pre-flash information. This is not a spot meter reading, unless the camera determines that the subject is so small that it occupies only one of the 17 metering segments. Most subjects will cover a larger area than that. The big improvement here over the original E-TTL algorithm is that the size and location of the primary flash metering area can change dynamically according to the size and location of the subject. In the original E-TTL algorithm, the size, location and weighting of the primary flash metering area was linked to the active focusing point.

C.Fn 14-1 on a Mark II applies the E-TTL II flash metering algorithm equally to all 17 metering segments within the Area AF ellipse, so in comparison to 14-0, 14-1 is not subject-based.

As I've mentioned in previous posts, the setting of the focus mode switch on the lens has no bearing on E-TTL II flash metering, so C.Fn 14-0 and 14-1 are effective whether the lens is set for AF or manual focus.

***

There are two differences between original E-TTL and E-TTL II in this particular comparison:

1. E-TTL II will factor in distance information when it is available during direct flash operation, regardless of the C.Fn 14 or C.Fn 4 setting. Standard E-TTL does not use distance info.

2. When C.Fn 14-1 is active on the Mark II, E-TTL II flashmetering is averaged for all 17 metering segments regardless of the C.Fn 4 setting or the focus mode set on the lens. This gives the photographer more flexibility in setting up the camera according to their personal preferences. Original E-TTL can't average its flashmetering unless specific camera settings are used."

--------------------
Chuck Westfall
Director/Technical Marketing Dept.
Camera Division/Canon U.S.A., Inc.

The original thread is here: http://www.robgalbraith.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=247684&page=&view=&sb=5&o =&fpart=1&vc=1

There is also some info here: http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/#ettlii
Regards,
Scott

[scottbergerphoto]

Canon digital cameras are designed to work with flashes using their proprietary E-TTL/II system. If you are going to use a hot shoe flash, it must support E-TTL/II or function in manual operation. All Canon "EX" series flashes will function in E-TTL/II. Canon "EZ" series flashes will not. There are third party flashes such as Sigma and Quantum that make flashes compatible with ETTL/II. You have to check each model.
You can also use a non-Canon flash via the PC socket in manual flash mode. When using any non-Canon flash unit, you must be certain that its "flash trigger voltage" doesn't exceed 6 volts unless the camera Manual indicates that body has a higher limit. This usually applies to the PC socket as well as the hot shoe. Check your Manual. High voltages will fry your shutter.
For a comprehensive discussion of Canon EOS flash, please refer to:
http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/
Scott

[C.S.I.]

"Red Eye" occurs when light from a flash, usually camera mounted, is reflected off the back of the subjects eyes and back to the camera. The red is the color of the blood filled vessels at the back of the eye or Retina. The smaller the angle between the flash and the subject, the more likely you will get "red eye". The best way to deal with this phenomenon is to prevent it. You do that by getting the flash off the camera on a bracket or in your hand and connected to the camera with a Canon "Off the Shoe Cord 2". That way you still have ETTL. You place the flash about 12 inches above the lens and pointed at the subject. It will also give some more depth to the picture. You might also try increasing the ambient light in the room if possible to reduce the size of the subject's pupils. Some cameras have a "red eye" reduction feature. The camera fires a flash before the flash (not to be confused with the pre-flash of the ETTL) to cause the subject's pupils to contract. The problem with this is that it makes your subjects look like their squinting and does nothing for that "headlights in the eyes" look.
In a pinch, most photo editing software has some method of removing "red eye" after the fact.
Scott



Sorry.......


I know this is an extremely old thread BUT.......Anyone know if you can use the Canon off shoe cord 2 with the Sigma 500 DG Super? Im guessing yes since the 2 are compatible on the camera.......Also....Scott states that the cable is E-TTL, however B+H 's page states that the cord is TTL. Anyone know of any cheaper cords while Im thinking of it?


Thanks again......




Show me a young Conservative and I'll show you someone with no heart. Show me an old Liberal and I'll show you someone with no brains. - Winston Churchill


_______________________
300D
Sigma 70-200 2.8 EX
Sigma 105 2.8 macro EX

[scottbergerphoto]

The Off The Shoe Cord II is the only cord that will work for ETTL and ETTLII. It's like moving your hot shoe off the camera. It should work with any ETTL compatible flash.
Scott

[Jesper]

Two links:

Portable Studio Flash Using Canon Speedlites (http://www.steviebarrett.com/home/index.php?article=10)

One Flash, Two Flashes, Three Flashes (http://www.filmlessphotos.ca/IndexPage.htm)

[scottbergerphoto]

Two links:

Portable Studio Flash Using Canon Speedlites (http://www.steviebarrett.com/home/index.php?article=10)

One Flash, Two Flashes, Three Flashes (http://www.filmlessphotos.ca/IndexPage.htm)
Great Links! Thanks.
Scott

[scottbergerphoto]

http://www.photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=51728
Scott

[Jesper]

How to repair a broken 550 EX flash tube yourself (http://www.ahomls.com/550EX/)

[scottbergerphoto]

Not too deep, but a brief explanation of E-TTL II from Canon Europe:

http://www.cps.canon-europe.com/art...100262&pageId=1
Thanks Tom.
Scott

[Mark_48]

Not too deep, but a brief explanation of E-TTL II from Canon Europe:

http://www.cps.canon-europe.com/art...100262&pageId=1
Thanks Tom.
Scott

Scott,

The link you provided doesn't seem to work (at least for me). I think I did find the site and the article which is titled "Fearless Flash" to which the link was intended. One of the better explanations I've come across for E-TTL II.

Mark........

http://www.cps.canon-europe.com/articles/article.jsp?article.articleId=100262

[Tom W]

Mark is correct, Scott. Apparently, the added "&page" stuff at the end of the link makes it go 404.
Try this:

http://www.cps.canon-europe.com/articles/article.jsp?article.articleId=100262

PS - I'll fix my link in the earlier post.

[Jonny]

Quick question, forgive me if its been covered before somewhere.

ETTL/II - is ETTL 2 based on the camera body, body+flash or Flash. Do you have to have a certain body and flash to have ETTL 2?

I have a 20D + 420EX - i know the flash has ETTL but with the 20d will i know be equipped with ETTL 2?

[Jon]

E-TTL 2 is a characteristic of the body, and will work with any E-TTL flash. The 20D supports E-TTL 2 with the 420EX.

[Hatem Eldoronki]

Scottbergerphoto,
Thank you so much for the links you provided here. This is invaluable.

[Silent_freak]

Nice one... thanks!

[Bodog]

Didn't see anything here on which flashes are safe to use with the EOS cameras. Here's a list I just came across of flashes and their trigger voltages for anyone interested. http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

[PhotosGuy]

You'll have to provide an email address to sign in. It's worth it as there's a lot of good info on this site.
ShootSmarter Tutorials & Info. (http://www.shootsmarter.com/index.html)

Jim Tweedie on Digital Wedding, Portrait, On-Cam Flash (http://www.shootsmarter.com/infocenter/jt000.html)

Thanks to ShortBusCandid8 for this link:
High Speed Shutter vs. Ordinary Flash Sync (http://webs.lanset.com/rcochran/flash/hss.html)

Another "help me what do I do thread" (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=113074) (Settings for flash indoors - Good advice from Gavin)

Standardize a flash on "M" : Photographing the White Party (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=409255)


Just found a great link to Strobist - "Less Gear • More Brain • Better Light" (http://strobist.blogspot.com/):
David (?), a working photographer promotes more effective use of small, shoe-mount flashes with pics & examples:
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/02/welcome-to-strobist.html

[martook]

I found this thread to be very interesting:
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=80413
Anyone that just went from a P&S to a DSLR should read it I think...

[b1gdaddy]

Hello

Found this link on web, it allows almost any flashgun to be used on EOS camera's ( i say almost any flashgun because i don't own every model ! ). It is a small circuit that is easily built resulting in a trigger voltage of less than 6v. It fully isolates flash voltage from hotshoe contacts and i have used it for a good while now. I built mine into a canon hotshoe/pc cord adapter and it is a very neat and cheap unit. I use it on a Canon 350D. Hope it is of use.




http://www.carlmcmillan.com/images/Optoisolated_Adapter.GIF

[scottbergerphoto]

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=88641

[scottbergerphoto]

From Bloo Dog:
"Turn the unit on and leave it on for a minute or so, then shut it off for a minute. Don't discharge the flash. Turn it back on with the modeling light on for about fifteen minutes. Turn off the modeling flash and let it cool, but allow the power pack/monolight to remain on. Don't discharge it for twenty-30 minutes. This will help to reform the capacitors if the unit(s) have been sitting for awhile. After about a half hour, turn the modeling light back on and begin test firing the unit. The modeling light will heat the unit up and will reveal any breaks which have developed in the wiring. It will cause the flash to fire on its own. If the unit doesn't flash on its own and if the output is good, you've got a good used unit."
Thanks Bloo Dog.

From Bob Gross:
"Virtually 100% of flash units use a big electrolytic capacitor to hold the high voltage going to the flash tube. With many of these, if you let the electrolytic capacitor sit there unused for a long period of time (weeks?), then it gets "funky" for lack of a better term. It may still work, but there also may be some minor problems and inconsistencies. This is especially true if it was stored in a hot environment.

So, if you are handling a flash unit that may possibly have such a problem, then you need to operate it carefully, and leave the high voltage on the capacitor (leave the Ready light on for a while). Maybe fire it and let it cycle a few times. Then, if it still operates normally, then it is probably good.

If you want to get the worst possible performance, then leave the flash unit stored with the batteries in it, and in a hot area, and leave it there untouched for five years. It would be a miracle if it worked at all."
Thanks Bob.

[scottbergerphoto]

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=90446

[scottbergerphoto]

This is a test of the commercially available Warm Cards ( www.warmcards.com ). They are designed to fool the camera or in your Raw conversion (as I used them) to create warmer light and skin tones. You can use them to set a custom White Balance instead of a white card or include them in one of your pictures and click on it with the eye dropper in ACR. They come in 4 strengths: Warm 1/2, Warm 1, Warm 2, and Warm 3. There is also a green one to deal with fluorescent light. I shot this test with 3 550EX's a 20D, Canon 24-70 f/2.8, wireless ETTL2. No adjustments were made to Levels or Hue/Saturation.
The pictures shown were shot Raw and WB set in ACR by clicking on the displayed card with the WB Eye Dropper.
http://www.pbase.com/scottbergerphoto/warm_cards

[scottbergerphoto]

http://www.photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=95285
http://www.photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=92411
http://www.photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=96081&highlight=ratios
http://www.photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=87673&highlight=ratios
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=46778&highlight=

[bokeh'ed]

Guys, from what I understand on the flash bible, am I right to say that the shutter speed does not really matter wrt to proper exposure when it comes to external flash, so long it's 1/60 or faster? or more importantly, it's the aperture settings that has a more consequential impact on the exposure?

[PhotosGuy]

the shutter speed does not really matter... What you're thinking, that the aperture is more important, is correct, but the way you expressed it leaves room for error. It also depends on the brightness of the ambient light at slow shutter speeds. For instance, 1/60 @ f/16 outdoors in sunlight will be overexposed at any ISO. Indoors, lights in the frame & even people may blur at slow shutter speeds.

[scottbergerphoto]

The shutter speed, when using flash is your primary means of controlling the exposure of ambient light. The flash exposure is affected not by the shutter speed because the flash is so fast(1/1000-1/10,0000), but by the aperture.

[scottbergerphoto]

http://www3.canon.de/pro/bda/fot/bli/

[PhotosGuy]

You really agree with this, Scott? :D :D
Bitte beachten Sie, dass wir keine Haftung für eventuelle Schäden oder Probleme übernehmen, die auf Ihrem Rechner beim Downloaden dieser Dateien entstehen.

[scottbergerphoto]

You really agree with this, Scott? :D :D
Bitte beachten Sie, dass wir keine Haftung für eventuelle Schäden oder Probleme übernehmen, die auf Ihrem Rechner beim Downloaden dieser Dateien entstehen.
Doesn't everyone speak German? Sorry, I thought those were in English. I'll post a different link tonight.

[DavidW]

The 220EX and 550EX manuals at that site are in English. The 420EX manual is in German.



David

[scottbergerphoto]

:D

[psy4fun]

Great post! Why not stick it? :)

Alex

[Derbyshire Weddings]

Am I correct in thinking that if you set the camera (5D) in AV -aperture at 5.6 for example. Then a set a 580EX in High sync mode, dial in flash output to -1, then that is correct for fill in or am I missing something?

[René Damkot]

Should work fine. Why not give it a try, and adjust FEC to taste? ;)

[scottbergerphoto]

Am I correct in thinking that if you set the camera (5D) in AV -aperture at 5.6 for example. Then a set a 580EX in High sync mode, dial in flash output to -1, then that is correct for fill in or am I missing something?
True "fill flash" as written about by the late Galen Rowell, should be about -1 and 2/3. Just enough to lighten the shadows. The ultimate judge of how the shot looks is you or the customer, so adjust to taste.

[matt1987]

Bitte beachten Sie, dass wir keine Haftung für eventuelle Schäden oder Probleme übernehmen, die auf Ihrem Rechner beim Downloaden dieser Dateien entstehen.

lol, i realize that this thread is like ages old, though if you'd still need it, I speek german.. so bring it on ^^

the quote above simply means that they cannot be made responsible for caused damages/problems that this download may cause on your computer