Cactus V2s + Vivitar 283s?

[thepepperman]

Just picked up a set of Cactus V2s wireless flash triggers and am getting around to testing them out. I've got all the receivers (3) responding to the transmitter on my camera, and I can trigger my Sigma 500, but I can't get them to trigger my two Vivitar 283s. I'm also using a sync cord with the Vivitars as I don't want to connect them to the receivers via the hotshoe - the voltage may fry them.

Has anyone else used this combination? I have no idea why the receivers won't trigger the Vivitars, even though the flashes appear to be working (pressing the flash test button always fires them).

[David B12]

The hotshoe and the sync port are wired together. Don't worry about sliding the flash onto the shoe and trying again. The soldered connection at the sync port is a known weak point.

[thepepperman]

Thanks David. I can see in the receivers that the sync port and hotshoe are wired together, the solder connections look fine. Interestingly, if I try to measure the voltage on the Vivitar hotshoe it doesn't trigger the flash, but if I do the same at the PC end of the sync wire the flash will fire.

[David B12]

Very strange! I just grabbed my old (OLD!) Vivitar 285 and checked the voltage across the shoe and through the sync cord. The flash didn't trigger on either one. I got 5.9 volts both times. Don't forget that when you plug in the sync cord that it opens the circuit to the shoe! Did you have the cord plugged in when you tested the voltage at the shoe?

[thepepperman]

Well part of the problem above was that when measuring the voltage at the PC cord I wasn't careful and shorted the neg/pos terminals together - which caused the flash to fire. Being more careful just let me measure the voltage.

Still can't get the receivers to trigger the flashes though :(

[thepepperman]

Well I got an email from Gadget Infinity (very fast response!) that said I should use the V2 (not V2s) receivers for the 283's. However I dropped by Henry's used centre (local camera chain) and traded in the 283's for some used Sunpak 383's instead! Confirmed they work with the V2s as well.

On to wireless flash experimentation!

[David B12]

Sweet! I've been using 2 383's and the one Vivitar 285 for a few weeks. I wish it were 3 383's!

[Alexajlex]

So I take it they work with the 383s?

I'm looking at getting some V2s and want to be absolutely sure.

[SolidxSnake]

I never knew the V2 was supposed to work with the old 283s (mine runs at 103vDC). I always thought that those handled trigger volts up to... 12v and no higher or else the receiver would be damaged. I picked up the 16channel Gadget Infinity triggers which are confirmed to work with the 283s for myself and they should be here soon.

The hot-shoe and the PC Sync are wired the same in the flash (as well as ALL canon cameras). Thus if your PC Sync jack measures 6v, your hotshoe contacts will also measure 6v. Likewise if the camera handles 250v at the PC Sync (Every Canon dSLR from the Digital Rebel XT/20D onward essentially), the hotshoe also accepts the same voltage.

On the 283, when a PC sync cable is plugged into the jack on the side, the hot-shoe is disconnected from the circuit and has no volts running through, and shorting the contacts will not fire the flash. I, however, broke the proprietary cable that I got with my 283, and I needed the flash soon after so I popped it open and completely makeshifted a 1/8" Switching jack and switched my PC sync cable to be 1/8" instead of the useless proprietary vivitar connector. So much easier :)

[lowcrust]

So Snake, did the 16channel trigger work with your 283's?

[SolidxSnake]

So Snake, did the 16channel trigger work with your 283's?



Indeed they do. Not so well, but I blame that on a weak battery in the transmitter. They do trigger my 283 and it works great unless it doesn't trigger at all... Again, the battery is a 12v 23A battery (L1028, I think it is compatible with A23) and measuring mine, I find it is around 11.5v. Normally, from what I've gathered, batteries are generally a little higher than their rated voltage at idle, thus I figure this battery is on its way out.

[HV Chris]

since there are some 383 users here, how bad is the recycle time on them? I've read tons of people saying that they take forever to recycle and that it's such a pain. it scared me to the point of not buying them and blowing my budget on one 440ex. So are the myths true or is it a lot of over exaggeration?

[lowcrust]

Can't say that mine take longer than the 285 to recycle. I can do a test with a few different flashes I have.

Without a variable power mod/adapter you'll always be firing all guns blazing and obviously that's gonna affect the recycle times drastically compared to a lower setting.

[lowcrust]

So Snake, did the 16channel trigger work with your 283's?
Indeed they do.

I just got a 16 channel set and they do in fact work perfectly with the 283. Out of 36 shots fired yesterday the flash fired 36 times. I've already modded the cable so that it has the Vivitar connector instead of that big ol' headphone plug.

[SolidxSnake]

I just got a 16 channel set and they do in fact work perfectly with the 283. Out of 36 shots fired yesterday the flash fired 36 times. I've already modded the cable so that it has the Vivitar connector instead of that big ol' headphone plug.


I did the exact opposite, I put a 1/8" headphone jack into my 283 and I changed the wire out on the receiver from a 1/4" plug to a right-angle 1/8" plug.

[dave63]

Seems to me one ought to be able to install a limiting diode or resistor somewhere along the path to the sync plug, no? Or between the sync plug and the DSLR.
I just purchased 2 283's, and both run at about 300v. (GAH!)
You'd think a step-down circuit would work, too.

[SolidxSnake]

Seems to me one ought to be able to install a limiting diode or resistor somewhere along the path to the sync plug, no? Or between the sync plug and the DSLR.
I just purchased 2 283's, and both run at about 300v. (GAH!)
You'd think a step-down circuit would work, too.

It could introduce some lag. The best route is to separate the HV with an optotriac.

[dave63]

D'OH!
Why didn't I think of that... grrr...

Anyone know of someone who's done this, and has a schematic available?

[dave63]

Or...I could save myself some effort, get back to enjoying life, by going here (http://www.weinproducts.com/safesyncs.htm) and picking up a Safe Sync™.

:D

[SolidxSnake]

D'OH!
Why didn't I think of that... grrr...

Anyone know of someone who's done this, and has a schematic available?

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=416117

[JMHPhotography]

I have two Vivitar 283's but both measure out at 8.66V. Guess I'm lucky, but I only use them remotely, anyway.

[SolidxSnake]

I have two Vivitar 283's but both measure out at 8.66V. Guess I'm lucky, but I only use them remotely, anyway.

They're newer then, I'd assume.

[GenuineRolla]

I hear the Made In Japan ones have the lower voltage

[SolidxSnake]

I hear the Made In Japan ones have the lower voltage

hearsay

[GenuineRolla]

Good to know..

I have some 283's and had problems getting them to fire as well. I have v2s set but it looks like I should just get the V2 instead. Will the v2 receiver work with the v2s transmitter..?