Having Trouble With Overexposed Skies

[DDWD10]

It seems that roughly 60% of my outdoor shots have blown-out overexposed skies, the histogram confirms this by flashing the large overexposed region. I never had this problem when I shot with my Fuji. I have tried all three metering modes on my 10D and I usually shoot in P. If I use AE lock to correct this, the land is far too dark. Should I invest in a CPL? Here is a sample, the sky couldn't be more overexposed!

[Xerox]

maybe it's time to try HDR?

[DDWD10]

That's a lot of post-processing for my old G4 to handle, but I'd try it for the best shots.

[tonylong]

You could try a CPL or a GND for situations like this. Without filters, though, your best bet is to shoot in RAW and, using the histogram, ensure that you don't blow out the highlights, then in post-processing take one of several approaches to blend processing for the sky with processing for the landscape. RAW processing software can do a lot these days to balance highlights and shadows!

Or, like Xerox said, use a tripod and take several exposures and blend with HDR...

[sadatk]

I'd go the CPL/GND route. HDR isn't worth the trouble for me personally.

[DDWD10]

I can pick up a 58mm Sunpak CPL at Circuit City for about $20. Right now I use a Sunpak UV filter, mainly to protect the front element.

[mrbplus]

Wouldn't a polarizing filter solve this problem? Or is that what a CPL is?

[beezwax]

try spot metering the sky

[argyle]

I doubt that a CPL would be much help in this instance...it would darken the sky as well as the foreground anywhere from 1.5 to 2 stops. Your best bet is to blend two exposures or use a soft GND. Also, it soesn't look like it was the best time of day to get a lot of sky in the picture. And you don't necessarily need an HDR treatment...two exposures and a layer mask in PS would work.

[artyboy]

very common problem. bright cloudless sky above and objects in deep shade at the bottom. if you expose for the sky, the shaded objects goes into murky darkness; if you expose for the shaded objects, you get a white burnout sky. think the best bet is the GND filter as mentioned above, half-dark half clear. the only other solution i can think of is metering for the sky and using flash on the shaded object/s, if they are within reach of the flash that is. if you're talking about large landscapes/cityscapes then guess GND is the way to go.

[drewman]

As already said:

In a situation like this photo was taken in with pretty even lighting throughout and little shade I would point the camera up at the sky, center the meter, drop the camera, recompose & shoot. Try that DDW & show us the difference, it should bring a smile to your face :D

[bwolford]

As already said:

In a situation like this photo was taken in with pretty even lighting throughout and little shade I would point the camera up at the sky, center the meter, drop the camera, recompose & shoot. Try that DDW & show us the difference, it should bring a smile to your face :D

In this situation, won't metering the sky under expose the rest of the image. Seems like he has two choices here overexposed sky, properly exposed people/house or properly exposed sky, underexposed everything else.

[hdd]

you could always say you have a gaint white backdrop back there and its supposed to look that way:)

I was thinking the same thing you just asked. If you meter the sky, its gonna underexpose the rest.

[Bob_A]

try spot metering the sky

This would cause the subject/foreground to be severly underexposed.

[cosworth]

Blue sky = meter for sky +1 EV. A polarizer/ND grad is nice to have.

White overcast day = Either say screw it or meter for sky.

Welcome to metering and mastering it. This is the express reason I switched to shooting in M after working in the Caribbean.

[tonylong]

Blue sky = meter for sky +1 EV. A polarizer/ND grad is nice to have.

White overcast day = Either say screw it or meter for sky.

Welcome to metering and mastering it. This is the express reason I switched to shooting in M after working in the Caribbean.

Jason,

Is that Kotter in your avatar, or just someone pretending to be him?

[Wilt]

It seems that roughly 60% of my outdoor shots have blown-out overexposed skies, the histogram confirms this by flashing the large overexposed region. I never had this problem when I shot with my Fuji. I have tried all three metering modes on my 10D and I usually shoot in P. If I use AE lock to correct this, the land is far too dark. Should I invest in a CPL? Here is a sample, the sky couldn't be more overexposed!

I doubt that the Fuji (or any other camera) could have consistentely rendered the sky any better, under the same lighting conditions, without the use of the various techniques mentioned (HDR, ND filter, etc)

[PhotosGuy]

I doubt that the Fuji (or any other camera) could have consistentely rendered the sky any better, under the same lighting conditions, without the use of the various techniques mentioned (HDR, ND filter, etc) It wouldn't hurt to get off Auto exposure mode, either. Try manual in those tough conditions. First set the f-stop & shutter speed you need. Then adjust the ISO. Need an exposure crutch? (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=89123)
Is that Kotter in your avatar, or just someone pretending to be him? Looks like him to me!

[DDWD10]

I'll try these techniques and pick up a CPL, thanks for the help everyone :)

[DDWD10]

The sample shot was from a very overcast day.

With blue skies, I don't face the problem as often:

[tonylong]

The sample shot was from a very overcast day.

With blue skies, I don't face the problem as often:

Well, this shot is a great starting point! You don't even need any HDR or GND treatment -- just some simple PP stuff like contrast and whatnot for the building. It looks like this exposure handled the sky very well!

[Xerox]

I just thought of something. Try metering the sky (sky will be properly exposed while foreground will be under exposed). Use Photoshop CS Images > Adjustments > Shadows/Highlights. Play around with the sliders (there's only two) and see if you can get the foreground to properly exposed levels.

[Bob_A]

I just thought of something. Try metering the sky (sky will be properly exposed while foreground will be under exposed). Use Photoshop CS Images > Adjustments > Shadows/Highlights. Play around with the sliders (there's only two) and see if you can get the foreground to properly exposed levels.

Only if you don't care how the subject looks. Using shadows/highlights can sometimes result in a pretty flat/odd looking image.

IMO the best approach is to shoot at the right time of day and use a CPL or Grad ND filter.

[argyle]

The sample shot was from a very overcast day.

With blue skies, I don't face the problem as often:

...and you need to keep your horizons straight. ;)

[Sorarse]

I find that in situations like these it's very difficult to get an overall satisfactory exposure. I have a stock of sky photographs for such situations, which I will use in photos where the sky is either uninteresting and/or just a uniform grey/white.

Like this.

http://www.88qv.com/net/OE.jpg

[drewman]

It wouldn't hurt to get off Auto exposure mode, either. Try manual in those tough conditions. First set the f-stop & shutter speed you need. Then adjust the ISO. Need an exposure crutch? (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=89123)
Looks like him to me!

Yeah, that's the ticket... use PhotosGuys crutch

[Sabarika]

Often when I have blown highlights or black shadows, I use the Shadows/Highlights feature in Photoshop CS2. I'm not good at it (most of my pictures turn out with great exposure, but look like poorly done HDR) but I'm learning to use it lightly to control my mistakes and figure out what to do later to prevent the problem. I can post examples when I get home, files aren't with me at work. It's a quick fix for those shots you've already taken.

[PhotosGuy]

Often when I have blown highlights or black shadows, I use the Shadows/Highlights feature in Photoshop CS2. It's pretty good. Better is to blend two RAW conversions if you're thinking of making a big print. Or try a Layer Mask for easy local changes. Post #9:
Airport runway shoot (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=117950) I have a stock of sky photographs for such situations, which I will use in photos where the sky is either uninteresting and/or just a uniform grey/white.
I do that too. Some links at the bottom of this thread may help:
Mustang & B-17 + PS (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=91393)

[Cyth0n]

I would set to RAW and a low ISO, spot meter off the sky and then +2 or so EV. This will leave the sky slightly over exposed but you can bring detail back into it in PP. The foreground will be rather underexposed but again, you can bring the detail back. In ACR, exposure, fill light and recovery are your friends. In PS, shadow/highlight is you friend. Don't go overboard with them otherwise you'll end up with a slightly weird looking HDResque photo. Noise shouldn't be a problem if you shoot a low ISO.

[Duder]

This is exactly what HDR is for, capturing a dynamic range beyond what the camera is capable.

[akhoopes]

I find that in situations like these it's very difficult to get an overall satisfactory exposure. I have a stock of sky photographs for such situations, which I will use in photos where the sky is either uninteresting and/or just a uniform grey/white.

Like this.

http://www.88qv.com/net/OE.jpg


could you explain how you did this, got the sky to look like it went there, I know you used 2 pictures but dont know how you overlayed it, please exlain either here or on pm. Thank you.

[PhotosGuy]

could you explain how you did this, One way way - see the video tutorial in post #8:
EVERYTHING ON LAYER MASKS:
Tough Exposure question (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=421009)