setting up elinchrom skyport

[Ridebmx]

i just recently got a skyport, and im wondering how i should be using it shutter speed wise.

i turned it on and got all set up with a 1/1 power pop, sunset at 200iso, my shutter speed to be +0 was 1000. it was still light enough to not need a flash, but i wanted to try it out.


one thing i notice from using it, is the shutter speed. when i have the 430ex on camera, and i go to focus or press shutter, it maxes shutter speed to 200. but with this, i can pick any shutter speed.

so my question is, how do i know what shutter speed i should choose? just go to 200 at 400iso and give it a 1/8th pop and see how well it does? slightly confused, but in love with my purchase

[SkipD]

You can never use a flash with a conventional burst output (as opposed to a rapid string of very short bursts when using a Canon flash in "high speed sync" mode) with a shutter speed faster than the "max sync speed" for the particular camera. The "max sync" shutter speed is listed in the manual for all SLR cameras with focal-plane shutters.

When using a Speedlite remotely with something like the Skyport transmitter/receiver, all ETTL functionality is totally gone. You MUST use the camera's exposure settings and the Speedlite's output setting in manual. FEC (Flash Exposure Compensation) - either in the camera or the flash - will no longer work. EC (Exposure Compensation) in the camera will no longer work. It's kinda like working in the "olden days" :p.

[Ridebmx]

i know it loses all ettl, and i have to set the flash power and zoom myself. but my question is, how do i set up the exposure.

like say its pitch black out and i want to get a picture of a rail, but has a streetlight, enough for us to see and ride, but pitch black for the camera.

i set it up to flash the riders face and rail, so do i set it at iso 400, and then set shutter speed to 200, and fire off a 100% power shot?

thats what im wondering.. is 200 the limit for me to use the camera shutter speed with skyport before it goes into HSS mode?

and how do i get exposure right? with ettl, at 200, it would be at -2 or more and then expose with the flash.

but do i set my camera at -2 and then fire off a 1/?? flash..

i want to know how to figure out exposure and flash power and shutter speed.

[SkipD]

A handheld light meter that can measure flash sources would be the best way by far. You would go to the position that you expect the subject to be and have someone fire the flash while you measure the light using the meter in incident mode. Doing it with this method is a one-step way to perfection.

The alternative is a LOT of trial and error.

[Ridebmx]

i know ill be at f/8- f/11, so it would require more light than f/4, so i figure iso 400 will take the light source better than 100, and then if i pop off a flash at say 1/4 that should give enough light, but not too much, and if i need more i can go 1/2 and back up more?

the more gear i buy the more complicated and confusing it is to take a picture of bmx :lol:

[Jarrad]

With skyports I can only reliably get a sync speed of 1/125 or slower.

Pocket wizards tend to allow for max sync speed.

:)

[Ridebmx]

yes, but $100 for a receiver + 20 for the hotshoe cord, is alot less than the $180 pocket wizard+ cord.

$220 shipped for the set, or $360+ cords+ shipping for 2 PW

i dont plan on doing alot of night flash bmx shots, but i want it available if needbe

[René Damkot]

i know it loses all ettl, [...]
is 200 the limit for me to use the camera shutter speed with skyport before it goes into HSS mode?

Since ETTL is gone, so is HSS mode ;)

Have a read in the flash stickies, and search for some of Curtis' posts.

[Albert Street]

There's a new bmx forum dedicated to stuff like this. Check it out at www.bmxperception.com

[bigbaby987]

do you have a meter? this should dictate all of what your asking... i usually shoot around 1/125 at f8 and ISO100. this turns out to be a great

[MT Stringer]

I've fired my Skyports over 1000 times at the basketball games with 1/250 shutter speed without any sync problems.

Mike

[Curtis N]

Regarding the sync speed with Elinchrom Skyports:
1) The duration of the flash itself is part of the equation. Slower shutter speeds will be required when the flash duration is longer. This most often becomes an issue with studio strobes at low power settings.
2) The shooting environment is also part of the equation. If you're using flash for outdoor fill and your subject is not against the bottom of the frame (right side for vertical shots), then you can get away with a slightly faster shutter speed.
3) Some Skyport users have reported that the sync speed gets slower when the batteries get weak. If you're having problems, try replacing the transmitter battery and/or recharging the receivers.

I reported on the Skyport sync speed in this thread (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=429444), with images to quantify the limits. I welcome similar comparison shots from other Skyport users.

[Ridebmx]

im using a 350D, with a 430ex speedlite and skyports, skyport was charged for 15 minutes when i used it first time (had it since thursday afternoon) and my 430ex hasnt been charged in a month.

it was sundown, but still sun was visible enough to say its setting.

in the pictures, with the flash 6ft away, f/4 iso 200 i had the flash at 1/1 and you cant tell i used a flash in the pictures

i was told, for bmx, f/8-11 is ideal.

i use my wide angle the most, so im up close and personal sometimes.

the thing i want answered, is if its dark out like night time and only thing to light up the area is a street light.

and i want to use f/8, what iso should i be at and what flash power is ideal?

is 1/200 my max shutter speed with the flash?

the flash would normally be 6-8ft away from the rider.

im thinking f/8 iso 100, 200 shutter speed, and set flash where it needs to be, and pop off a picture at 1/8th flash power, and check histogram levels and adjust it from there?

[René Damkot]

with the flash 6ft away, f/4 iso 200 i had the flash at 1/1 and you cant tell i used a flash in the pictures

Then there is another issue. Sure the flash fired in sync and you weren't using a too fast shutterspeed (way above flash sync)?

a 430 at 1/1, 6ft. away, f/4; ISO 200 should overexpose the shot. Big time.

GN is 141 (feet/ ISO100, (I think max zoom)), so you'd get 141/6 = f/22 or so at ISO 100....

[Ridebmx]

ive only used it once like said before, it was sunsetting so it was still light out enough, my shutter speed was 1000 f4, not sure if it was iso 200 or 400.

flash was about 6ft away, 1/1 power and the flash popped off, but it didnt seem very bright.. kinda made my flash useless. but batterys hadnt been charged in a month and skyport got 15 minute charge, i was so excited after getting it i couldnt wait any longer than that :rolleyes:

me and my gf went out to play around with it, got to the location, and i looked at her with a "wheres the skyports?" face.. we forgot to bring it... so we didnt get to play with it tonight, was 10 minute cruise so nothing major.

ill just have to play around with it some more and see whats up

[René Damkot]

my shutter speed was 1000 f4,

1/1000s?
Then that's it: The shutter was closed by the time the flash went off probably...
Max sync speed still applies (1/250 or 1/200, depending on camera), and the Skyport adds a little delay: I'd not go faster then 1/200 on any camera.

Curtis started a thread about the timing with a Skyport a while back.

[fastdiablo]

nobody on this forum can tell you your required settings without being at your shooting location. you need to chimp out your exposure like the rest of the world, unless you have a meter which is not necessary and is actually cumbersome and slow if you're constantly changing your shooting position and lighting on location.

go read lighting 101 on the strobist.com website. you will find what you need by just doing a little reading. in the meantime, charge your gear, set some baseline settings like iso 100, a shutter speed within your sync range, and start adjusting your aperture only.

[bigbaby987]

A meter is absolutely necessary if you don't feel like "chimping" all day. Sure we do it for a shot or so, but if your meter is accurate, then get your settings and go. You will waste more time trying to adjust for a million things if you don't have a good meter. They're not that expensive and reliable. You can get a sekonic L358 for around 150-200 bucks on the forums. Most end up selling theirs because they are either not doing much studio work or upgraded to a 758 with has a spot meter. No offense "fast", but that's not very good advise in my opinion.

Look at it this way. We pros..... user meters. What makes anyone else exempt. In fact, get the assistant to do it after you know they know what they're doing so you can focus on shooting. But you better believe it's done. That's if you're in a studio relying on your flash as your main light.

**NOW-- if you know your math, wb surroundings, and how ISO factored in with your shutter spead (because it can be done) and how they can all dictate your exposure then go out and shoot with natural light all day with a compliment of flash. But if you're relying on your flash to carry the load, then you may want a meter.

[Mr. Clean]

bigbaby, fastdiablo said "chimp unless you have a meter"
You said "use a meter if you don't feel like chimping"

That being said, a light meter would be a great help to eliminate the unknowns and is (in my opinion) the best route, and reading the Strobist blog will also help your learning curve.

[bigbaby987]

thanks clean... my apologies fast