View Full Version : Which filter you cannot go without
jeronleow
12th of April 2008 (Sat), 19:19
With the digital era many filter effects can be replicated with software. However some die-hard filter fans still cannot go without their "hardware". Please share what filter; brand and type you must go shooting with.
Anke
12th of April 2008 (Sat), 19:23
I always use Hoya Super HMC Protective filters, and carry Hoya polarisers and a range of Hitech ND Grads in my bag.
You cannot replicate a polariser in PP. So that one is a must IMO.
SkipD
12th of April 2008 (Sat), 19:53
The only filter effect that I know of that cannot be replicated in software is that of the polarizing filter. The ability of the polarizing filter to "cut through" reflections (on non-metallic surfaces) is impossible to replicate in software.
Graduated neutral density filters may also sneak into this camp, but if you took a series of shots at different exposure settings, software could be used to replicate what can be done with a single shot and a GND filter.
ELT_Photo
12th of April 2008 (Sat), 20:18
My B+W polarizers go everywhere the camera does _ indispensable IMHO.
Grentz
12th of April 2008 (Sat), 22:26
CPL, cannot be duplicated in PP or even come close to it in PP. And for an outdoor photographer it is a must.
Luckily I only need 1 as my main lenses (10-22 and 24-105) share the same filter size.
I use the Kenko (Hoya) Pro 1 and it works great.
condyk
13th of April 2008 (Sun), 03:05
CP ... and if you're into landscapes then a set of ND Grads ... and if you seriously feel you might get extra protection then a set of UV's.
WMWARD2
13th of April 2008 (Sun), 05:17
CP and ND grads
Jon
13th of April 2008 (Sun), 08:27
CP and grads. Multiple exposures and layering in PP only work in lieu of grads if nothing in your camera or scene moves while you're shooting. You can get a limited range compression out of a single RAW, but it's still easier to do it in camera.
nadtz
13th of April 2008 (Sun), 08:53
Havent gotten myself any ND's yet, but my CPL lives in the bag.
kennykodak
13th of April 2008 (Sun), 20:30
B+W 4 Point Star for weddings.
GSansoucie
13th of April 2008 (Sun), 20:44
While it is simple and easy to say a CPL because you cannot duplicate during PP, for me, my 3.0 ND filter can't be duplicated in PP either. I like long exposures and moving water. I use my ND's more than my CPL.
(However, I completely understand that this is NOT for everyone)
thrash_273
13th of April 2008 (Sun), 21:05
UV filters, cokin p-series with landscape filters
cosworth
13th of April 2008 (Sun), 21:06
CPL, nd grad (cokin) and a blue filter (cokin)
Lotto
13th of April 2008 (Sun), 22:51
Am I the only one that don't use filters? I use hoods on all my lens though.
jr_senator
13th of April 2008 (Sun), 23:34
CP a must and UV good to have should you need the extra protection sometime. I only use brass ring filters (B+W or Heliopan).
swapnali
13th of April 2008 (Sun), 23:50
CP & Grads.
grads saves a day if its too sunny or just bright white sky
Mike R
14th of April 2008 (Mon), 05:37
B+W CPL and Shing Ray GND filters
SkipD
14th of April 2008 (Mon), 06:01
Am I the only one that don't use filters? I use hoods on all my lens though.I never have used filters for "protection", but sometimes use filters such as a polarizing filter for the special effect provided by the filter.
opus13
14th of April 2008 (Mon), 11:47
Am I the only one that don't use filters? I use hoods on all my lens though.
no one says you have to :D if you like your results, who cares?
_aravena
14th of April 2008 (Mon), 14:12
I will say this then run away. I hate my Hoya. It requires so much cleaning and really messes with my len's IQ. I'll post which one it is alter as I'm not home, but I've been using cheap ones from this guy on ebay with my 18-50 and those come out awesome and w/o the filter the IQ changes very little. AS for my 70-200, it changes a lot when I take off the filter. I don't even use it anymore.
So never being on the band wagon of buying $100 filters (i know they don't all cost that) and then getting one just 'cause, definitely sticking with what I recognize as working.
Overall. I use my diffusion a lot. I want ND's though.
rklepper
14th of April 2008 (Mon), 20:25
CP and ND filters. Even things that may be able to be reproduced using software is not as much fun.
René Damkot
15th of April 2008 (Tue), 04:23
Only filter I own and use occasionally is a B+W CPL.
I also have a B+W red filter (leftover from the B&W film days) that doesn't get used anymore.
Cobra351
15th of April 2008 (Tue), 19:51
Circular Polarizer is a "must have" for me. I like Hoya Pro 1's.
pixel_junkie
15th of April 2008 (Tue), 20:23
Is there a technique to using a CPL filter, fellas? I use a B&W CPL with 10-22 and always get mixed results. The main thing I try to do is to not overuse it but outside of that, it is all hit and miss. Sometime it works well, sometimes I get uneven results.
Mike R
15th of April 2008 (Tue), 22:24
Is there a technique to using a CPL filter, fellas? I use a B&W CPL with 10-22 and always get mixed results. The main thing I try to do is to not overuse it but outside of that, it is all hit and miss. Sometime it works well, sometimes I get uneven results.
Your position to the sun has a lot to do with the results. I think they work best at 90 degrees to the sun. I just turn it unitll I get the result I'm after, or as close as possible if changing my position isn't an option.
SkipD
15th of April 2008 (Tue), 22:36
Is there a technique to using a CPL filter, fellas? If you have not figured it out, you have to rotate a polarizing filter while looking through the viewfinder to establish the level of effect that you desire (within the limitations of the combination of lighting and the filter, of course). That's why the filter frame is a two-part device that allows the rotation.
Jon
16th of April 2008 (Wed), 07:15
Is there a technique to using a CPL filter, fellas? I use a B&W CPL with 10-22 and always get mixed results. The main thing I try to do is to not overuse it but outside of that, it is all hit and miss. Sometime it works well, sometimes I get uneven results.With the 10-22 you're covering such a large angle that the filter's effect will vary across the scene. That's one reason a fair number of photographers use graduated NDs on UWA lenses; the effect won't vary as radically over he field of view.
pixel_junkie
16th of April 2008 (Wed), 11:38
If you have not figured it out, you have to rotate a polarizing filter while looking through the viewfinder to establish the level of effect that you desire (within the limitations of the combination of lighting and the filter, of course). That's why the filter frame is a two-part device that allows the rotation.
I've got that part :)
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