View Full Version : Official Automotive Rigs - DIY Thread
moacur
6th of July 2008 (Sun), 13:05
Not bad! Thanks :D
PTHONG
6th of July 2008 (Sun), 13:09
no problem, i'm just practicing till i can finish mine ;). Looks like i'm going to do the magnet/clamp setup instead, its tough cloning through tree's and buildings :lol:
99allturbo
6th of July 2008 (Sun), 15:50
Finally had a chance to test the rig out. Here is one of the shots:
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/CYPhoto_album/Automotive/IMG_1735_comp_image_3.jpg
JustinL
6th of July 2008 (Sun), 18:02
that's what i'm talking about!!! Sick work dude!!!
JustinL
6th of July 2008 (Sun), 18:04
no problem, i'm just practicing till i can finish mine ;). Looks like i'm going to do the magnet/clamp setup instead, its tough cloning through tree's and buildings :lol:
trees aren't that bad if you get enough blur --you can clone like a wild little league southpaw!!!
CorzyPhoto
6th of July 2008 (Sun), 18:12
moacur - What lens are you using for these?
moacur
6th of July 2008 (Sun), 18:18
Sigma 10-20
CorzyPhoto
6th of July 2008 (Sun), 18:19
I need to get me one of those... My kit lens is making me extend my rig out too far.
moacur
6th of July 2008 (Sun), 18:24
It is definitely a great lens to have in the bag..
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=143064&highlight=sigma+10-20
Plus it works great for rig shots.. 10mm is WIDE!
CorzyPhoto
6th of July 2008 (Sun), 22:06
http://i30.tinypic.com/29qejjc.jpg
http://i29.tinypic.com/2ikta92.jpg
PTHONG
6th of July 2008 (Sun), 22:36
looks good, i see you shot at a lower iso this time, should throw a driver in next time :D
CorzyPhoto
6th of July 2008 (Sun), 23:33
Thanks
:lol: My driver (me) was pushing
A more desaturated version of the 2nd one.
http://i32.tinypic.com/fawhma.jpg
Thameth
7th of July 2008 (Mon), 01:56
Hey Corzy, I have a Sigma 10-20mm. Let me know next time your gonna do a shoot and I'll try and pass by. Maybe we can do a quick shoot of my MINI....:D
99allturbo
7th of July 2008 (Mon), 07:50
that's what i'm talking about!!! Sick work dude!!!
Thanks Justin.
moacur
7th of July 2008 (Mon), 08:01
Went out and tried a few more last night. Now I just need photoshop so I can remove the rigs.. I'm pretty happy with the results.
This is me by myself.. Setting the 10sec. timer, running and jumping in the car and driving :D Can't wait to see the difference in quality when I have my shutter cable and someone else to drive the car!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3116/2645959650_11971baa4c_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3053/2645133911_f8f78cf5fa_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3043/2645134183_247e318a21_o.jpg
aridan
7th of July 2008 (Mon), 09:47
Finally had a chance to test the rig out. Here is one of the shots:
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/CYPhoto_album/Automotive/IMG_1735_comp_image_3.jpg
Now, that blur is right on the money!
rich_cooper
7th of July 2008 (Mon), 11:15
Think im going to give it a go and make a rig
And then learn to use photoshop so i can remove the rig from the photos!
99allturbo
7th of July 2008 (Mon), 11:16
Now, that blur is right on the money!
Thanks. :)
Mike Bowen
7th of July 2008 (Mon), 12:46
OK, so here as promised, are my 'behind the scenes' pics.
Pretty basic and almost identical to Dean's rig with the exception of the type of pole used and minus the magic arm.
Components:
1 x 8'-16' extensible painter's pole |lightweight| - $44
2 x Avenger F1000 suction cups - $97
3 x Manfrotto super clamps - $75
1 x Manfrotto 484 Micro ball head - $45
Total Cost: $261 :)
I'm copying you. :D
I just ordered the suction cups, clamps and 484 head. Should all be here by Friday. Just gotta go find the painters pole now..I'm assuming you just got it at a Home Depot type store?
aridan
7th of July 2008 (Mon), 16:19
I'm copying you. :D
I just ordered the suction cups, clamps and 484 head. Should all be here by Friday. Just gotta go find the painters pole now..I'm assuming you just got it at a Home Depot type store?
HOLD YOUR HORSES!!!! (Note to self: need to update the shopping list)
Drop the painter's pole - it's garbage. The bounce on it was too much. Instead, I returned it and picked up a 10' EMT pole from Home Depot. Cost was $7.69 IIRC - should be in the electrical dept.
Good luck and don't forget to post some pics! :D
Mike Bowen
7th of July 2008 (Mon), 16:21
HOLD YOUR HORSES!!!! (Note to self: need to update the shopping list)
Drop the painter's pole - it's garbage. The bounce on it was too much. Instead, I returned it and picked up a 10' EMT pole from Home Depot. Cost was $7.69 IIRC - should be in the electrical dept.
Good luck and don't forget to post some pics! :D
Well I'm glad you saw this, that will save me some money! Thanks for the tip.
What is that made out of, aluminum? What does EMT stand for so I don't look like a total idiot at the store :)
CorzyPhoto
7th of July 2008 (Mon), 16:34
:lol: I'm sure they would know what EMT is... If not, they will be an idiot with you :)
Mike Bowen
7th of July 2008 (Mon), 16:51
Oh is it just the stuff used for like electrical conduit? Also are there different diameters and/or gauges of the tubing..if so which one did you use?
SeanDinner
7th of July 2008 (Mon), 17:14
Ordered my stuff from Adorama this morning! I'm exited!
The benefit to living on a farm is there's always junk around... so, I was able to find some sturdy lightweight(ish) poles to connect together for $0!
CorzyPhoto
7th of July 2008 (Mon), 18:21
I'm using aluminum piping (not EMT), but I would go with a larger diameter if you can. I would get anything more than 1 1/2" diameter. If you get a smaller diameter, try to choose one with a thicker side wall.
aridan
7th of July 2008 (Mon), 19:08
Well I'm glad you saw this, that will save me some money! Thanks for the tip.
What is that made out of, aluminum? What does EMT stand for so I don't look like a total idiot at the store :)
EMT stands for Electrical Metallic Tubing. It is used for conduits to run wires. Go to your nearest Home Depot and check out the electrical section. you will them in various lengths and thicknesses. I wish I could tell you the thickness but I simply don't remember. :confused:
aridan
7th of July 2008 (Mon), 19:10
Went out and tried a few more last night. Now I just need photoshop so I can remove the rigs.. I'm pretty happy with the results.
This is me by myself.. Setting the 10sec. timer, running and jumping in the car and driving :D Can't wait to see the difference in quality when I have my shutter cable and someone else to drive the car!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3116/2645959650_11971baa4c_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3053/2645133911_f8f78cf5fa_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3043/2645134183_247e318a21_o.jpg
Good stuff. Pretty sharp considering you had to trip the camera run back to the car, shut the door and start driving... When I shut the door, the whole damn pole would start bouncing. :mad: I had to sit there for a good 1 minute to wait for the thing to stabilize before I could take the shot.
moacur
7th of July 2008 (Mon), 22:12
Thanks! It can only get better from here I'm assuming :cool:
JustinL
8th of July 2008 (Tue), 12:06
Good stuff. Pretty sharp considering you had to trip the camera run back to the car, shut the door and start driving... When I shut the door, the whole damn pole would start bouncing. :mad: I had to sit there for a good 1 minute to wait for the thing to stabilize before I could take the shot.
Exactly what I thought when he was saying he had to hit the 10 second timer.
(Buy some PW's);)
99allturbo
8th of July 2008 (Tue), 12:26
Nice job moacur.
PWs and shutter release cable work great. Makes your job easier. I know, PWs are not cheap, but are worth it.
CorzyPhoto
8th of July 2008 (Tue), 12:44
Skyports are a cheaper alternative that a lot of people are happy with.
CorzyPhoto
8th of July 2008 (Tue), 12:46
That said, I don't see why PW or Skyports would even help with this?
Zilly
8th of July 2008 (Tue), 13:43
That said, I don't see why PW or Skyports would even help with this?
to remote tigger the camera as you drive or push it along
CorzyPhoto
8th of July 2008 (Tue), 14:51
PWs are used to trigger flashes, no?
You can just get a wireless remote for the camera's shutter...
TomTomTuning
8th of July 2008 (Tue), 14:56
PWs are used to trigger flashes, no?
You can just get a wireless remote for the camera's shutter...
You can use PW's to trigger a camera well. Just need a different cable.
You can also get cheap Wireless shutter triggers on eBay as well.
But the Cameras like the 40D dont have the OEM wireless like some of the rebels
Zilly
8th of July 2008 (Tue), 14:57
PWs are used to trigger flashes, no?
You can just get a wireless remote for the camera's shutter...
they also trigger cameras as do skyports and getto triggers
wirelss trigger for a 1 series is £300 and is only ir so pw work out a cheeper more versatile and more effective alternative
CLICK to see how its done (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=479526)
CorzyPhoto
8th of July 2008 (Tue), 15:18
Ah, I thought all Canon DSLRs have the wireless infrared sensor for the shutter.
Zilly
8th of July 2008 (Tue), 15:20
Ah, I thought all Canon DSLRs have the wireless infrared sensor for the shutter.
nope its a pita when you get to the top end series :rolleyes:
CorzyPhoto
8th of July 2008 (Tue), 15:25
They figure you can afford it or don't need a 40D for rig shots :lol:.
aridan
8th of July 2008 (Tue), 15:30
Skyports are a cheaper alternative that a lot of people are happy with.
Not even that.
Just get yourself the generic Phottix wireless remote from eBay. Best bang for the buck!
moacur
8th of July 2008 (Tue), 16:27
Excuse my noobiness....What does PW stand for?
I did order a wireless remote off of ebay about a week ago after reading someone's review of it for the 40d. Should be here in the next day or two..
Zilly
8th of July 2008 (Tue), 16:28
PW- pocket wizard
moacur
8th of July 2008 (Tue), 16:28
Sounds kinky :lol:
Zilly
8th of July 2008 (Tue), 16:37
oooh it can press all of your buttons (from over 100ft)
CLICK (http://www.pocketwizard.com/)
Katbird
8th of July 2008 (Tue), 16:48
I REALLY wish I bought a monopod/tripod combo but since I bought the Manfrotto 679B for my S3IS does anyone have a fairly ez idea how to creat lightweight legs for the monopod. I have thought about slicing a nerf ball in half then inserting the single leg into it's center and stepping on it for stability but that may look pretty stupid in public. I don't plan on leaving it unattended I could just use some stability while changing batteries, SD card or telelenses. Thanks in advance.
Katbird
8th of July 2008 (Tue), 16:54
OOPS... Sorry I posted in the wrong place. I also don't know how to remove it.
CorzyPhoto
8th of July 2008 (Tue), 17:16
PWs can have a range up to 1600 ft...
Taken directly from their website:
"PocketWizard’s MultiMAX Transceiver contains many of the features found in the PocketWizard Plus II including advanced wireless transceiver technology, multi-channel switching, sustained 12 frames-per-second high-speed triggering, and a range of up to 1600’ between transceivers."
JustinL
8th of July 2008 (Tue), 22:03
oooh it can press all of your buttons (from over 100ft)
CLICK (http://www.pocketwizard.com/)
About 1600 ft!
http://www.sportsshooter.com/news/1355
CorzyPhoto
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 00:32
Lay-mo... I already posted that Justin.. LOL
aridan
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 06:20
I did order a wireless remote off of ebay about a week ago after reading someone's review of it for the 40d. Should be here in the next day or two..
And that's all you need.
A Pocket Wizard receiver+transmitter will run you almost $300 - a waste of money if all you are looking for is triggering the camera remotely.
JustinL
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 07:37
Lay-mo... I already posted that Justin.. LOL
You also posted this:
PWs are used to trigger flashes, no?
You can just get a wireless remote for the camera's shutter...
:lol:
Get a set, they're worth every penny, trust me.
JasonPerryPhoto
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 08:57
Just wanted to get some quick feedback on my material selection for my pump cup rig that I am putting together. I found 1" square aluminum tubing w/ 1/8" wall for a moderately reasonable price. I was curious as to whether or not anyone else has used this material and what kind of results they had seen out of it. I am planning on using the cables and building a cantilever support and counterweighting it as well. Rig will consist of the Avenger cups, three Super Clamps and a Magic Arm.
Regarding the previous posts and the PW's... You can fire cameras or flashes with them. Yes, they ARE expensive but they are absolutely one of the best investments you will make for your setup. I initially bought two and within a months time I bought three more to power all of my Speedlites. I can't wait to use them with my rig and see what kind of shots we can get.
Zilly
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 09:10
tubular will always be stronger and lighter than square also less chance of metal fatigue
JasonPerryPhoto
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 09:50
tubular will always be stronger and lighter than square also less chance of metal fatigue
Hmmm... I would hate to say "always". If that were so they would put round connecting rods in engines where much lateral stress is seen. Although, round does enjoy much more torsional strength.
CorzyPhoto
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 09:55
Do you mean circular is more than square tubing? Square can be tubular, too..
Jason, I would go with a larger square tubing if you must use square tubing. For sturdiness, I would go with circular aluminum tubing at least 1 1/2 inch Dia.
As said before, you can go to Home Depot or Lowe's and purchase EMT, which is used for electrical conduit, and it's circular.
I'm not stopping you from getting the square tubing for cheap, go for it... but you will probably be better off with a larger tube.
BIGTUFFGUY
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 10:05
i bought both circle and square tubing the same thickness and size. The square one flexed a lot less.
JasonPerryPhoto
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 10:13
From experience, I am convinced that square tubing of a given diameter and wall thickness will be laterally stronger than round tubing of a similar size. Thus, better suited for this job. My primary concern is how the material will handle this much bob weight. I haven't really done anything on this scale before and just wanted to know where to start with my tubing size. Corzy, I think I can get my hands on some 1.500" as well. Thanks.
I looked at EMT. Too heavy or too flexible. I don't mind spending the money on getting a better material. I would like to get this thing as right as I can from the start.
CorzyPhoto
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 10:13
It may have been a different metal?
CorzyPhoto
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 10:15
Jason, I actually have extra aluminum tubing if you're interested. I have a buyer, but he hasn't really acted on it yet. If he doesn't respond in the next couple days I'll let you know.
kona77
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 10:18
I have worked with a metal specialist and the square tubing has less flex and is stronger. The only reason why you see round in race cars is because you can bend it. For straight shots square is the way to go. I am still tinkering with my set up and when I can actually post a shot I will also show the rig.
CorzyPhoto
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 10:33
LMAO. Will do man. Get your Paypal prepared :)
CorzyPhoto
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 10:40
I just told him he has till today to pay or he's loosing the deal.
JasonPerryPhoto
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 10:41
Before I get all excited here, tell me exactly what you have.
CorzyPhoto
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 10:59
Keep getting excited, you have a PM ;)
n1nj4 m0d3
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 11:50
I think I can get my hands on some 1.500" as well.
1.5" will work well. i think my circular pole is 1.5" also and the pole works for me. rectangular tubing is stronger than circular tubing. i learned that in middle school :p. the only reason why i stuck with circular tubing is because they don't make rectangular painters poles :(
CorzyPhoto
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 14:34
Remember, rectangular tubing tends to have more mass which may also mean it's heavier than circular tubing :p
moacur
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 15:50
Question for all. Hope you don't mind that I ask it here. I got my first copy of Photoshop today. It is CS2 version 9.
On photoshop.. How would you go abouts removing the rig :confused:
CorzyPhoto
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 15:55
Use the cloning tool.
Hold Alt and select an area that you would like the pole to look like (sky or pavement).
After that let go of the Alt key and click where the pole is. I'm sure you can figure out the rest.
n1nj4 m0d3
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 18:49
Question for all. Hope you don't mind that I ask it here. I got my first copy of Photoshop today. It is CS2 version 9.
On photoshop.. How would you go abouts removing the rig :confused:
http://www.photoshopsupport.com/tutorials/lesa-snider-king/removing-powerlines-spot-healing-brush.html
different purpose, same idea :)
that site's very useful. you should def take a look at it if you're a noob at photoshop :)
this video is super helpful also :D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWn0lxRNqos
n1nj4 m0d3
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 18:52
some other nice videos :)
Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_X5uR7VC4M
Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXeZ0s8DXZ0
Part 3: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWn0lxRNqos
Part 4: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNfBF2xvhaE
Part 5: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-8hQh6hdnI
Part 6: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lys2MxjzE94
Part 7: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0EKAtO4Anxc
Part 8: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRnrKzOrp7M
Part 9: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13KelrbkGpI
Part 10: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wH6-twlgJhU
Part 11: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l309y6i9azc
moacur
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 19:01
Thanks for the links guys..
That first video is Hilarious. My wife and I were just cracking up :lol: It does a good job at showing how to work the tools too :cool:
Here is my first rough go at it before watching the video...
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3045/2654257270_84d17c5186_o.jpg
disboifan
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 19:45
some other nice videos :)
Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_X5uR7VC4M
Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXeZ0s8DXZ0
Part 3: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWn0lxRNqos
Part 4: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNfBF2xvhaE
Part 5: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-8hQh6hdnI
Part 6: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lys2MxjzE94
Part 7: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0EKAtO4Anxc
Part 8: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRnrKzOrp7M
Part 9: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13KelrbkGpI
Part 10: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wH6-twlgJhU
Part 11: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l309y6i9azc
lol hilarious
PTHONG
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 19:58
doesn't that guy sound like Dane Cook? :lol: I've watched some of his vids before, its hilarous :lol:
JustinL
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 21:44
Thanks for the links guys..
That first video is Hilarious. My wife and I were just cracking up :lol: It does a good job at showing how to work the tools too :cool:
Here is my first rough go at it before watching the video...
Excellent job dude! I was worried about that when I saw your original. I think you did a better job that I would have!
moacur
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 21:56
Thanks Justin :cool:
PTHONG
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 23:23
Thanks for the links guys..
That first video is Hilarious. My wife and I were just cracking up :lol: It does a good job at showing how to work the tools too :cool:
Here is my first rough go at it before watching the video...
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3045/2654257270_84d17c5186_o.jpg
Good for a first try, As you can see, you can tell where you edited it out.
moacur
9th of July 2008 (Wed), 23:35
Yup :D That was a rough first try.. I've got some better ones now after watching the videos on the blending and what not :cool:
CorzyPhoto
10th of July 2008 (Thu), 00:41
http://i34.tinypic.com/2d82smb.jpg
Thameth
10th of July 2008 (Thu), 00:50
Nice shot Corzy.... :lol::D:p
Hehe, people should check his EXIF time vs his post time....
CorzyPhoto
10th of July 2008 (Thu), 01:24
Another:
http://i37.tinypic.com/biv89.jpg
Thameth
10th of July 2008 (Thu), 01:32
That one came out sweet...
aridan
10th of July 2008 (Thu), 07:55
Another:
http://i37.tinypic.com/biv89.jpg
Very nice! I don't know why, but the angle on this one makes it look like it's caught drifting :D
CorzyPhoto
10th of July 2008 (Thu), 11:46
:lol: I told that to Joe with the first pic.
CorzyPhoto
10th of July 2008 (Thu), 13:05
http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=22001.0;attach=292 33;image
:cool:
PTHONG
10th of July 2008 (Thu), 16:12
nice shots there Corzy, your last post shows no image ???
CorzyPhoto
10th of July 2008 (Thu), 16:27
I'll have to post that one later. I can't upload at work, so I tried going through a forum and uploading the pic there as an attachment to use the link. It shows up fine for me... maybe because I'm logged onto the forum..
CorzyPhoto
11th of July 2008 (Fri), 01:27
Here's the one that wasn't working:
http://i33.tinypic.com/34opq4p.jpg
n1nj4 m0d3
11th of July 2008 (Fri), 02:08
^wow! awesome job :)
Thameth
11th of July 2008 (Fri), 02:18
Great job with the rig removal Corzy! I will have to keep practicing but I kept getting a muddy mess with all the shadows the rig caused. Now I can't remember, was that photo going forward or backwards?? :lol:
My MINI finally makes its POTN debut! :D
CorzyPhoto
11th of July 2008 (Fri), 09:36
:lol: I think that one was going forward like .000064 mph
The cloning takes practice I guess. You have to look at the surrounding shades and shadows/highlights so you can get a good blend.
PhotosGuy
11th of July 2008 (Fri), 10:05
The whole thing now measures 12ft + Put a sail on that & save gas! ;)
aridan
11th of July 2008 (Fri), 10:12
Here's the one that wasn't working:
http://i33.tinypic.com/34opq4p.jpg
Excellent work!
Where do you guys find these covered garages? When I tried to pull something like that last time, I got swooped on by security within minutes. :rolleyes:
n1nj4 m0d3
11th of July 2008 (Fri), 11:54
Where do you guys find these covered garages?
i would guess miami?
:p
CorzyPhoto
11th of July 2008 (Fri), 12:29
i would guess miami?
:p
There are plenty of garages around here...
BUT.. this one the security was cool with it until the night shift and all the mall employees (mostly women) got freaked out from my poles. :lol: So they told security and security was like just sit here and chill till they all leave. So we did, next thing you know a real cop shows up. She was fine with it too, but she said the mall security told her that they told us to leave and we didn't.... :rolleyes: Rent-a-Cops......
SeanDinner
11th of July 2008 (Fri), 13:34
Just got all of my stuff today! Going to test up the fitting and everything! I'm very impressed with Adorama. Got an email saying the Avenger cups were backorder, should be 10-14 days....crap. 2 days later they said it's shipped, I thought maybe everything but the cups, but the order said everything....2 days later (today) I get the order with everything! Woo hoo! Super-excited. Good job Adorama and FedEx!
aridan
11th of July 2008 (Fri), 13:48
Just got all of my stuff today! Going to test up the fitting and everything! I'm very impressed with Adorama. Got an email saying the Avenger cups were backorder, should be 10-14 days....crap. 2 days later they said it's shipped, I thought maybe everything but the cups, but the order said everything....2 days later (today) I get the order with everything! Woo hoo! Super-excited. Good job Adorama and FedEx!
Now the question is:
WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU DOING ON THE WEB??!?!?
GET TO WORK! :evil:
:D:D:D
JasonPerryPhoto
11th of July 2008 (Fri), 14:22
So, I too got my pump cups in today. One of them wont draw enough vacuum to hide the red line on the piston. I have read about this before on the avengers... Any input???
JustinL
11th of July 2008 (Fri), 15:55
Return the broken one for another right away.
JasonPerryPhoto
11th of July 2008 (Fri), 16:01
Kinda my first thought... Just wondered if anyone has had similar failures or problems with theirs, new or not. I could switch over to a Woods setup without incurring too much more expense.
gixxer_kidd
11th of July 2008 (Fri), 17:00
Here's a pic that was done in joint collaboration with my buddy Jan a few years back. We rigged it from beneath the driver side. It was our first rig shot. We really didn't kow what we were doing. Took a bunch to get this one. Jan took care of all the chopping. This is the best pic we ever took of my car. Too bad it's long gone now...I'm working on a new rig right now and should have some new pics up soon.
-Thai
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2069/2659622958_591ef7d1cb_o.jpg
Mike Bowen
11th of July 2008 (Fri), 17:03
great shot!
Brennan.M
11th of July 2008 (Fri), 17:05
I dont know about trustin a rig with my camera lol. I know everyone does fine but still, Ill probly end up doin it sooner or later lol
PTHONG
11th of July 2008 (Fri), 17:10
nice job on the mini corzy. Amazing shot above on the 3 series bimmer
Brennan.M
11th of July 2008 (Fri), 17:13
M3 ftw
CorzyPhoto
11th of July 2008 (Fri), 18:00
Thanks :)
Definately looks like a M3..
Nice shot though, has a little shake but not much.
Thameth
11th of July 2008 (Fri), 18:12
Thanks :)
Definately looks like a M3..
Nice shot though, has a little shake but not much.
Next time we go Rig shooting we'll have to try and get a shot like that M3 shot! I'll also have to clean up the MINI :lol:
CorzyPhoto
11th of July 2008 (Fri), 20:56
We could've had a shot like that if we didn't have those bumps :lol:
aridan
11th of July 2008 (Fri), 22:05
Here's a pic that was done in joint collaboration with my buddy Jan a few years back. We rigged it from beneath the driver side. It was our first rig shot. We really didn't kow what we were doing. Took a bunch to get this one. Jan took care of all the chopping. This is the best pic we ever took of my car. Too bad it's long gone now...I'm working on a new rig right now and should have some new pics up soon.
-Thai
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2069/2659622958_591ef7d1cb_o.jpg
Awesome shot! Gotta love the Brembos! :D
vegasboy
11th of July 2008 (Fri), 22:23
amazing thread
GTI
13th of July 2008 (Sun), 15:27
This thread is so active, I figured I might as well post a picture here.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh205/Caspita33/20080606_BrettDavid_0057web.jpg
dude.the pics are verry nice but i dont think the motion pic will work without a driver!!
Mike Bowen
13th of July 2008 (Sun), 22:07
well it's still way too bright out right now, and this picture was extremely over exposed. I was just testing it out to make sure it wasn't bouncing around too much, and it looks good. This was a rather short exposure, only 1 sec so i am going to have to wait a few more hours before I try again when its darker, but I was excited so i had to post. :)
http://www.imgtree.net/files/b6b0s87cyfhbu10r9dg7.jpg
JustinL
13th of July 2008 (Sun), 22:20
Mike look into some ND filters, they'll allow you to shoot these slower shutter speeds during daylight. I'm looking toward to seeing more from you!
Mike Bowen
13th of July 2008 (Sun), 22:26
Yeah I know...they are on my todo list. I don't image I would ever been shooting like this during the day tho...just more of testing it out right now.
CorzyPhoto
13th of July 2008 (Sun), 23:37
Justin, I would suggest a GRADUATED ND filter more than just any ND filter...
Mike Bowen
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 00:52
well took some more...i think i have learned my lesson already as far as shooting and knowning what my background was. this is my first time ever cloning out something so obtrusive so pardon the crappy clone job on the house. but exposure is much better this time.
http://www.imgtree.net/files/zu3yfphjf6g8ycc105ys.jpg
Also a shot of the rig
http://www.imgtree.net/files/o90ca5vvlh1x46w2lyy7.jpg
SeanDinner
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 01:35
Hey guys and gals, this may help some of you when photoshopping out the rigs: http://mattwatkinson.com/blog/?p=60
(Basically, it says take the rig shot, then take a shot of the car still [without the rig :P] put them together in Photoshop, use the areas from the still shot to replace the rig on the rig shot) Easy!
P.S. Still working on mine, should hopefully get some pics up tomorrow if the weather cooperates.
CorzyPhoto
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 02:16
flap - It appears you have no shake. Are you pushing the car? Congrats on finishing the rig.
Mike Bowen
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 02:20
flap - It appears you have no shake. Are you pushing the car? Congrats on finishing the rig.
No, what i did it just get in the car, start it up and just get it rolling til about 5mph and turn the car off and let it coast. i take the picture a few seconds after the car is off and the camera seems to settle down. I have a few pictures where you can see the shake but most of them came out pretty good as far as that goes.
aridan
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 06:41
Good stuff flap, what's that yellow cable sticking out of the driver's door in your first garage shot? :)
PTHONG
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 07:10
Hey guys and gals, this may help some of you when photoshopping out the rigs: http://mattwatkinson.com/blog/?p=60
(Basically, it says take the rig shot, then take a shot of the car still [without the rig :P] put them together in Photoshop, use the areas from the still shot to replace the rig on the rig shot) Easy!
P.S. Still working on mine, should hopefully get some pics up tomorrow if the weather cooperates.
but then if you replace the backround from the still, you lose the motion??
Good stuff flap, what's that yellow cable sticking out of the driver's door in your first garage shot? :)
emergency stop cable?? :lol: Nice shot on your second attempt, i would have cloned out those yellow reflections on the car though.
Zilly
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 07:49
but then if you replace the backround from the still, you lose the motion??
he only uses the still shot to remove the rig and reflections from the car the blur is eas y enough to clone over
aridan
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 08:39
he only uses the still shot to remove the rig and reflections from the car the blur is eas y enough to clone over
I still opt to go with the manual, more tedious way of cloning out the rig. Yes, it may involve more work and time, but I don't see how with the cut and paste technique, you would paste a static car on a moving, blurred background. Those blurred backgrounds reflect on the car, and if you don't see those smudged reflections on what otherwise looks like a moving car (you see static reflections), I don't see how this approach can possibly work. :confused:
Zilly
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 09:02
I still opt to go with the manual, more tedious way of cloning out the rig. Yes, it may involve more work and time, but I don't see how with the cut and paste technique, you would paste a static car on a moving, blurred background. Those blurred backgrounds reflect on the car, and if you don't see those smudged reflections on what otherwise looks like a moving car (you see static reflections), I don't see how this approach can possibly work. :confused:
place the rig in the right places and the reflection should look like its moving
also just use a CPL to remove the reflections
JustinL
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 09:21
Justin, I would suggest a GRADUATED ND filter more than just any ND filter...
Yea I know, you've said that before. I'm preaching on what equipment I have or have used at one point, and the regular ND's work fine for me.
Zilly
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 09:26
why would you want a nd grad its going to unblallance the exposure across the frame ?
CorzyPhoto
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 09:34
It will darken the sky to show more detail in the clouds when you have the darker portion of the filter on the top.
Zilly
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 10:02
It will darken the sky to show more detail in the clouds when you have the darker portion of the filter on the top.
thats how they normaly work ;) but why would you want to use one for rig work you want to darken the entire scene so that the entire exposure drops thus allowing you to use a slower shutter speed
be_good
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 10:39
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s101/be_good_customs/_MG_6301.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s101/be_good_customs/_MG_6299.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s101/be_good_customs/_MG_6293.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s101/be_good_customs/_MG_6287.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s101/be_good_customs/_MG_6291.jpg
here are mine. i just used two suction cups, and a pole from a tree saw. :lol:
Mark1
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 10:50
Good job, just very uneven color ballence.
...but why would you want to use one for rig work you want to darken the entire scene so that the entire exposure drops thus allowing you to use a slower shutter speed
Simple, the entire frame may not need to be lowered. OR should not be lowered evenly.
Zilly
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 11:06
Good job, just very uneven color ballence.
Simple, the entire frame may not need to be lowered. OR should not be lowered evenly.
but if your shooting at say 3 oclock in the afternoon and your getting 100th of a second at f9 then a 0.9 nd filter will give you 1/13th of a second shutter speed at f9 in contrast to a nd grad that will still give you 100th of a second at f9 but the sky will be under exposed by three stops which altho will look really nice with some killer skys its not going to help drop over all light levels to allow you to lengthen the shutter time
Mike Bowen
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 11:34
Good stuff flap, what's that yellow cable sticking out of the driver's door in your first garage shot? :)
Its my shutter release cable, I extended it with a cable I had laying around so I could trigger the shutter from inside the car.
Mark1
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 11:35
It still comes down to... Do you need the entire frame to be cut down? Or do you need it evened out? What exposure you are getting is not relevant. The only part that counts is, is it an even exposure. Day shot... cut the sky to even it out. Possibly even stack it with a regular ND. No different than you would doing a landscape. At night, use it to cut the lit signs and streetlights.
Its about geting a quality exposure that is evenly exposed. Its not about trying to get a specific exposure.
JustinL
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 11:39
It still comes down to... Do you need the entire frame to be cut down? Or do you need it evened out? What exposure you are getting is not relevant. The only part that counts is, is it an even exposure. Day shot... cut the sky to even it out. Possibly even stack it with a regular ND. No different than you would doing a landscape. At night, use it to cut the lit signs and streetlights.
Its about geting a quality exposure that is evenly exposed. Its not about trying to get a specific exposure.
THANK YOU:)
Zilly
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 11:43
It still comes down to... Do you need the entire frame to be cut down? Or do you need it evened out? What exposure you are getting is not relevant. The only part that counts is, is it an even exposure. Day shot... cut the sky to even it out. Possibly even stack it with a regular ND. No different than you would doing a landscape. At night, use it to cut the lit signs and streetlights.
Its about geting a quality exposure that is evenly exposed. Its not about trying to get a specific exposure.
the priority of doing a rig shot is to get the shutter slow enough so that you can induce movement after that you can then start to worry about balancing the exposure across the frame
TomTomTuning
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 12:26
Here's a pic that was done in joint collaboration with my buddy Jan a few years back. We rigged it from beneath the driver side. It was our first rig shot. We really didn't kow what we were doing. Took a bunch to get this one. Jan took care of all the chopping. This is the best pic we ever took of my car. Too bad it's long gone now...I'm working on a new rig right now and should have some new pics up soon.
-Thai
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2069/2659622958_591ef7d1cb_o.jpg
a)
Thai, didnt know u were on potn as well. Its Tom btw
This shot is bad ass!!
PTHONG
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 13:21
he only uses the still shot to remove the rig and reflections from the car the blur is eas y enough to clone over
it actually isn't too bad cloning it out. But as someone else stated, you still don't have the motion blur reflecting off the car. Yeah you can use a CPL, but what if its not on hand. And besides you would need to stand at the same spot to get the same angle to be able to cut and paste, IMO its much easier to do the standard method of cloning it out.
CorzyPhoto
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 15:03
If you are going to cut down the entire frame, you might as well not use a filter at all. You can use f/22 with a longer shutter...
Todd Good
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 16:24
I don't know if its been mentioned yet, but what seems to be a good shutter speed while using a rig. I know the longer the shutter the more moment you get, but I'm taking a guess that a 1.5 second shutter speed would be a pretty good one? Thoughts?
CorzyPhoto
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 16:31
It really depends how fast you are going. A lot of guys here are pushing their car at about .5-2 mph... Going that fast you should use about a 2 second shutter and depending on how bright it is outside, use f/9+. Of course if it's brighter, use a more narrow aperture.
Zilly
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 16:35
It really depends how fast you are going. A lot of guys here are pushing their car at about .5-2 mph... Going that fast you should use about a 2 second shutter and depending on how bright it is outside, use f/9+. Of course if it's brighter, use a more narrow aperture.
or a nd filter . . . . .
romasas
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 16:54
aa I buy new lens and, made new foto : :)
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3284/2651163182_6debe9cc4d_b.jpg
Mike Bowen
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 17:01
romasas, can you post an unprocessed photo with the rig still in it? nice pic btw
romasas
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 17:20
romasas, can you post an unprocessed photo with the rig still in it? nice pic btw
ooo sorry, have deleted.
PTHONG
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 18:53
Looks great. You should clone out the sensor dust
aridan
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 19:12
aa I buy new lens and, made new foto : :)
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3284/2651163182_6debe9cc4d_b.jpg
Good amount of blur. Just right.
Mark1
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 20:04
the priority of doing a rig shot is to get the shutter slow enough so that you can induce movement after that you can then start to worry about balancing the exposure across the frame
Symantics here but.... Its not priorty, its intention. And you are not able to do this in one step? It should be. At the most 2 parts of 1 step. You should not have to work the problem twice to get an answer. Its 1 problem with two halves. 1. How far off do you want the background from the subject. 2 Where does the subject need to be. If you need a reg ND then fine. But the sky is still equally too bright as it was before you added the regular ND. Now stack a GND, or replace it with the GND, and the sky falls where you want it.
As mentioned above some just close down the appature, some throw in a ND. Neither is wrong. My only point is that there are times where you need a GND to obtain the best shot..
CorzyPhoto
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 23:31
or a nd filter . . . . .
Why would you spend ~$50 on something you can control with aperture? I mean unless you have other uses for it, go ahead and get it, but it's just unecessary in my eyes for rig shots. I would rather do the graduated nd before the nd anyways.
CorzyPhoto
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 23:32
romasas - Nice shot! I would clone out the sensor dust, though.
JustinL
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 23:40
If you are going to cut down the entire frame, you might as well not use a filter at all. You can use f/22 with a longer shutter...
Use something like f22 and you'll be cloning every little spec out of the photo AND the rig. ND filters are key. I can shoot at high noon and not have to go anywhere near an f22.
CorzyPhoto
14th of July 2008 (Mon), 23:45
Keep your sensor clean then? :lol:
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