Proper use of 420EX and Stofen Omnibounce

[markubig]

Hi all -

I understand that the best way to use the Stofen omnibounce is at a 45-degree angle to bounce off the ceiling and diffuse light at the subject. However, what do you do in the case where you have walls and ceilings that aren't white (i.e. wallpaper, wood-paneling, different-colored paints, etc.)?

Additionally, how do you use the Stofen Omnibounce in dark rooms with high ceilings (such as party halls)? Should you be pointing it at the subject in this case? and if they are roughly 10+ feet away, should u just remove the omnibounce from the flast? I'm asking this question because i am getting frustrated with it underexposing and I have the FEC already at +1.5.

Honestly, I was having an easier time with the "2-cent Index Card + Rubberband" solution, but I really want to get the omnibounce to work since I spent the $15 on the darn thing.

Thanks for your help!

~mark

[kreego]

Hi Mark,

I've got the same flash/diffuser on my G5, and have had the same "problem" in similar situations. In fact, I think we're both underestimating how much light the diffuser sends elsewhere.

I use the diffuser when I'm pretty close, ex. portraits, and don't have a white surface available. If I need more range, and have reasonable light walls/ceiling, I remove the diffuser and go for straight bounce flash. But beyond 10-15 feet, even this method can fail, if the volume that needs to be lit up is too big.

So: I see two possibilities:
- a bigger flash (550EX)
- a bigger index card (seriously!)

You could also get someone to help you by holding a reflector, or why not a slave flash, but by then you've basically changed leagues ;-)

Hope this helps?

K

[MrChad]

I'm not sure if it's really all your Omni-bounce.
I think all Canon digitals have flash issues - exc. maybe the new 580ex designed EOS digitals.

My 420EX is always perfect on my Elan 7N and my buddies 7E.

But once he installs it on his Drebel or uses the 550EX with the Drebel he has exposure issues.

Maybe we just need to hope the next G works with the 580ex and that all furture speedlights talk to the G's and maybe compensate for the small sensor. We have been hoping for a 480EX type digi-flash soon?

I'd stick to bounce flashing the speedlite on the G unless you are using the internal flash.

[Flagpole]

G'day markubig!

I cannot say much about the Omnibounce but have you ever considered purchasing http://www.lumiquest.com/ Pro Max system http://www.wrotniak.net/photo/lq/index.html?

However, what do you do in the case where you have walls and ceilings that aren't white (i.e. wallpaper, wood-paneling, different-colored paints, etc.)?


Well in difficult lighting conditions like above you probably can do the following:

1)Use a gray card held next to the subject and use custom WB measured off the gray card. That should hopefully correct some of the colour cast.

2)Get a white/grey/black card like one you can find at the back of S. Kelby books and get the subject to hold it in the first shot then use the values to adjust your black/white/neutral colours via curves or levels.

3)Shoot in RAW. This allows you to capture maximum available information and then use CS RAW Import to adjust for lor casts or underexposure.

Additionally, how do you use the Stofen Omnibounce in dark rooms with high ceilings (such as party halls)? Should you be pointing it at the subject in this case? and if they are roughly 10+ feet away, should u just remove the omnibounce from the flast? I'm asking this question because i am getting frustrated with it underexposing and I have the FEC already at +1.5.

You can try the following if Omnibounce is the only thing you have. Ideally you would probably need something like the Pro Max 80/20 system with white insert if the ceiling are over 2-3m in height. But try the following:

1) Point at the subject and dial FEC down by a full stop to see if you can reduce those flash lit area by direct flash. The problem is of course that 420EX is fully automatic flash. Hence it will adjust flash output accordingly to produce "correct" exposure.

2)Consider purchasing off camera flash sync cord and holding the flash above the camera and to the side of subject to produce a different flash ilumination.

or maybe think about getting a bigger diffuser like a mini-softbox as it will allow you to use more of a direct flash and diffuse it over a greater area :)

Well thats all I could come up with. Probably not much help I know but you are asking quite a lot from you camera (low-light situations, no surface to difuse the flash from, color casts from walls and others). At the end you may need to compromise with some of the settings to get the shot you need. My advice shoot in RAW then use raw converter to recover shadows or highlights as per this tutorial http://www.adobe.com/digitalimag/pdfs/highlight_recovery.pdf

Goodluck,
Flagpole
Sydney, Australia

[markubig]

Thank you much for your replies.

Yes, I considered the lumiquest products; and although they looked like a good solution, they were just enormous-looking and I didn't want to stick velcro on my flash, so i went with the stofen, which looked simple and effective, based on previous reviews.

I figured that a stronger flash could be a nice alternative, but the huge difference in $$$ between the 420 and 550 is a bit of an obstacle right now.

I was at a wedding yesterday and used my omnibounce for both the church and the reception. I kept on getting the same underexposure results, so I switched back to my trusty "Index Card". It's amazing how well something that simple works.

I have been shooting in RAW format, and have invested in Photoshop Elements 3.0, so I have been able to correct a lot of my exposure problem pics. However, i just spent over an hour doing post-processing on about 230 pictures. I asked the question because if I could shoot properly, I would definitely reduce my post-processing time. I know that I'm probably asking for a lot, I was just hoping there was a way to improve my performance.

Is there a product that looks (size and shape) like the index card solution? I just feel "weird" when people stare at me attaching a index card with rubberbands.

Thanks again!

~mark

[MrChad]

Well some of the more expensive flashes have a small pull out card that looks like a flash card, but why mess with what works.

If the flash card works why spend more money, just use it?

I rule of thumb I read once was never be ashamed of your gear. It's the pictures not the gear.

[markubig]

Thanks for your wisdom, MrChad!!!

I love how the index card works, so i guess i'm going to stick with it!

Here is a pic that I took at the wedding yesterday with the index (flash) card

http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=2917767

Like I said earlier, I'm amazed how nice my pictures turn out using this 2-cent solution.

~mark

[bauerman]

Can someone explain in more detail - or provide a photo of what you are talking about with the index card and the rubber band. You have peaked my curiosity with that one. Thanks!

[markubig]

Can someone explain in more detail - or provide a photo of what you are talking about with the index card and the rubber band. You have peaked my curiosity with that one. Thanks!

This is how I do it and my pics are coming out great. Anybody doing it differently? or any suggestions on how to do this better?

http://gallery.photo.net/photo/2920098-md.jpg

http://gallery.photo.net/photo/2920096-md.jpg

[MrChad]

You place the rubber band around the head of the flash and stick the index card in the rubber band on the head. And the card is positioned on top of the flash head for reference.

Then you point the flash at 45 degrees and the flash fire will bounce off the index combo toward the subject.

[bauerman]

Hey thanks for the pics and the explanation - that helps and I am going to give that a try......

I used the 420ex this past weekend to take pictures of my son on Santa's lap and got some nasty red-eye. People always talk about how the 420 EX or other accessory flashes are THE cure for red-eye - they are not by any means from my experience......

[kreego]

That's all???

LOL - man, I'm going to try this ASAP. It would be interesting to compare this solution against two others: direct bounce flash, and a Stoffen Omnibounce diffuser. I'll see if I can do this...

K

[markubig]

when they're right in front of me, I'll use it straight up . . . when the subjects are a little farther, I point 45-degrees and bend the card up . . . have fun!

I think i'm going to put away my stofen for a while. . . :lol:

[u02bnpx]

I was at a wedding yesterday and used my omnibounce for both the church and the reception. I kept on getting the same underexposure results, so I switched back to my trusty "Index Card". It's amazing how well something that simple works.

~mark

Can you pass on info on how you use the card? Whenever I do so, I extend the card about 2-3 inches beyond the top of my 550 and angle the flash at 45 degrees. So-so results. Are there other options with this homespun method?

Floyd

[u02bnpx]

I was at a wedding yesterday and used my omnibounce for both the church and the reception. I kept on getting the same underexposure results, so I switched back to my trusty "Index Card". It's amazing how well something that simple works.

~mark

Can you pass on info on how you use the card? Whenever I do so, I extend the card about 2-3 inches beyond the top of my 550 and angle the flash at 45 degrees. So-so results. Are there other options with this homespun method?

Floyd

[markubig]

Can you pass on info on how you use the card? Whenever I do so, I extend the card about 2-3 inches beyond the top of my 550 and angle the flash at 45 degrees. So-so results. Are there other options with this homespun method?

Floyd

I too extend it about 2-3 inches above the flash, but i take a lot of portrait/close photography, so i point my flash straight up and have the light bounce and diffuse off the white card.

If the subjects are a little further away, i angle the flash 45 and then bend my card up (so it's vertical) to diffuse the light and bounce it forward.

Again, I'm still a beginner at photography, but I have found these methods to work very well. . .

Can anybody comment if I am doing this correctly?

[bauerman]

I just tried this method this past weekend at a company Christmas Party where I was asked to take pictures of the couples attending while seated at their tables. The ceilings in the banquet room were extremely high and the ambient light in the room was pretty low. Photography nightmare! But VIOLA – I pulled out my rubber bands and my recipe card stolen that morning from my wife’s recipe box and I was in business. I also tilted the head of the 420EX straight up and then extended the card 2-3 inches over the top of the flash head. I got some very good results. I will try and post an example later tonight. I did notice that my results varied by the amount of zoom used. I really should have tried to leave the zoom lever alone as this affected the quality of light that the exposure received from my recipe card. Overall, I would say that this a great technique and one that I will continue to utilize. (Although I guess I do wish that all those recipe cards were full in my wife’s cabinet right???)

[bauerman]

Hey just browsing around Amazon while eating my lunch and noticed this:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00009R6AS/qid=1103311648/sr=8-3/ref=sr_8_xs_ap_i3_xgl23/104-8182347-4607923?v=glance&s=electronics&n=507846

It seems that Stofen is aware of the index card trick and has tried to mimic it with this item. What does everyone think of this?

[cityboy_ca]

I've used the Lumiquest (still do when I take all my gear with me) with great success. I agree it's less than attractive but it IS effective. These days I use the back of a cigarette pack or index card or whatever is available. Recently I was stuck with nothing available and just rested my open hand along the back of the tilted flash head (420EX), extending my fingers to reflect some light forward. Worked a treat.

[bauerman]

Here is an example of what I was getting recently using the "index card and rubber band" homemade diffuser......I was pretty happy with most of results.........


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/bauerman/Miscellaneous/12-14-2004012.jpg

This was taken with the flash head at 90 degrees (straight up) and the index card extended about 3 inches out over the head.

[markubig]

Nice-looking picture. . . isn't the index card the coolest idea? It diffuses and distributes the light so evenly. i have figured out the omnibounce recently to get similar results. here's an example from a family gathering yesterday:

http://images.ofoto.com/photos977/2/71/25/72/31/6/631722571203_0_ALB.jpg

At least I know I can use either solution now to get good lighting out of my 420ex. Enjoy the holidays!!!

[J.A.F. Doorhof]

Hi,
When I shoot in a living room or other small room I just remove the omnibounce and aim straight up at the ceiling, no shadows are seen what so ever, when using an omnibounce you will get some nasty shadows behind the subject.

The only time I really use the omnibounce is when I shoot directly at someone and there is no wall or other object behind him/her.

Greetings,
Frank

[bauerman]

Markubig,

I would love to see that photo using the Omnibounce. I am still teetering as to whether or not I should even invest the money in one - if I would find enough times where it would be needed. Your picture is not loading - can you re-post it or just paste in the link to it? Thanks and happy holidays.