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picprinter
2nd of May 2008 (Fri), 14:30
Hello fellow Motorsports Photographers. I am coming to you because so many of you are accomplished photographers and capture some outstanding images. Maybe you can help me assist some of those who have asked me for help and suggestions. I've been having some interesting discussions with a few of the newer fellow Motorsports Photographers I've met recently concerning shutter speed and flash duration. There isn't much time to discuss things at the track and they often ask me if I could write down what I've just explained to them so they can refer to it in the future. If you have the time and would like to provide any feedback on what I've put together here I would be very interested in hearing what you've got to say. I hope I've got all of this right and that my examples are good but if I am wrong let me know.

Shutter Speed and Flash Duration – What they mean to you. Tools in your toolbox.


Shutter speed and flash duration both dramatically effect the affect of your image. Or is affect the effect? Shutter speed and its setting can help you, hurt you and fool those looking at your images. I am a huge fan of having motion visible in my sports images. Especially my motorsports images. Specifically I like to have blurring wheels and tires in my motorsports images. How do you accomplish that? With shutter speed! At times it can be like looking for nirvana, I want to shoot fast enough to cover up for my poor pan technique yet slow enough to allow for the motion to be seen in the tires and wheels. And then it all goes out the window once again after the sun sets and you start shooting flash.

Lets take a few practical examples from Trail-Way Speedway, just outside Hanover, PA, in the midst of PA Posse Sprint Car County. Trail-Way Speedway is a beautiful 3/8 mile, banked dirt track which races every Friday and Saturday during the racing season. While around here the 410 Sprint Car is King, Trail-Way Speedway plays host to 358 Sprint Cars, Thunder Cars, 270cc, 600cc and 1000cc Micro Sprints and several other divisions each week. The racing is fantastic and if you are a fan or photographer that enjoys “racing”, you’d love Trail-Way Speedway. I am also lucky to be the Track Photographer which gives me access to many fun and exciting vantage points from which to capture images.

So, to look at a few practical examples, lets consider that the 358 Sprint Cars average approximately 95 mph around the 3/8 mile oval. Faster on the straights and slower in the corners but still a hefty average on a tight race track. When the cars first come on the track they idle around at about 25 mph. Not much excitement in a race car going 25 mph but you can fool those looking at your images by using shutter speed.



http://pfsimages.com/images/ShutterSpeed/TW_042508_010.jpg

By selecting a slow shutter speed and panning with the race car you can make it appear as if it is going by rather quickly. Here, a shutter speed of 1/60 sec was used. The track and background are blurred and the tires and wheels are showing motion. Here is another example:



http://pfsimages.com/images/ShutterSpeed/TW_042508_016.jpg

There are times when I want to speed up my shutter speed to cover for pan error but still want to be slow enough to show motion. In this example the cars were up to racing speed so I adjusted my shutter speed to 1/320 sec. and got this:

http://pfsimages.com/images/ShutterSpeed/TW_042508_086.jpg

Notice, there is not as much blur in the track or background yet I was still able to maintain the sense of motion in the tires and wheels and caught what I think is a nice spray of the dirt coming off the rear tires.


As the sun sets and you transition over to flash things get more complicated due to flash duration. I have always thought the easiest way to think of it is that when you are shooting with a flash you are actually recording two images on your sensor or on your film. You are recording one image from the available light during the entire duration of the exposure and you are recording a second image during the duration of your flash. Depending on what flash you use and what modifications you may have done to your flash, flash durations will range anywhere from 1/2000 sec to 1/8000 sec. The darker the ambient gets, the less of an image you will get from the ambient component until finally, the only component of the image that is captured is that component which comes from the flash. A fast flash duration will act the same as a high shutter speed. In really dark instances you will approach the point where even slowing down your shutter speed while shooting the flash will have a very limited effect because there is no ambient light component recorded, only the flash component.

So, when shooting flash at just past dusk a shutter speed of 1/200 sec. might be just slow enough to allow you to capture a sharp image of the race car while still allowing for motion blur in the tires and wheels

http://pfsimages.com/images/ShutterSpeed/TW_042508_181.jpg

But note how that once full darkness has come across the track a shutter speed of 1/250 sec. will tend to freeze all of the action including the tires and wheels as in this example.




http://pfsimages.com/images/ShutterSpeed/TW_042508_237.jpg



Shutter Speed and Flash Duration can be your friends in that they can help you hide flaws such as pan error but in doing so they can also be your enemy by freezing the action and making the image look static. Or, as my daughter would say, “Look Daddy, that race car is parked on the race track”.

I hope that makes you think and makes you want to go out and play. Try some experiments with your shutter speed. After all, if you’re shooting digital it isn’t going to cost you anything.




Thanks for reading and looking forward to your comments and feedback.

jlozano180
2nd of May 2008 (Fri), 16:46
Great write up, the only thing thats missing is the aperture setting. Thank you, this will really help me.

gdrMatt
3rd of May 2008 (Sat), 02:49
In really dark instances you will approach the point where even slowing down your shutter speed while shooting the flash will have a very limited effect because there is no ambient light component recorded, only the flash component.

everything looks good but that quote... at night you can slow down your shutter speed to 1/10 or slower and get some cool "speed" effects using the flash on "second curtain sync." you should explain first and second curtain sync also. :)

DL64
4th of May 2008 (Sun), 07:51
thanks I just a printed it out and carry with me for quick tips.

PhotosGuy
4th of May 2008 (Sun), 10:29
Good info. Thanks for posting it. I'll put a link in Motorsport Shooting Tips, Tutorials and Advice (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=151056)
If you'd like, PM me later & I'll change your thread title to Shutter Speed and Flash Duration – What they mean to you. Tools in your toolbox.

One think I think should be mentioned: Before you take the shots, look at what the background is going to be & try to pick one that's either reasonably clean, or at least will add interest to the image.

For those who like to read, look in this, & the links you find in it:
Advice needed for Rally shooting (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=292705)

RacingMoose
4th of May 2008 (Sun), 21:04
Very informative post, thank you!

What are the rules at dirt tracks for using flash? Does it affect the drivers? We're frequent visitors to Big Diamond and Linda's speedways during the year and would love to take some shots.

kookie
5th of May 2008 (Mon), 07:54
Very informative post, thank you!


i agree! :)

DL64
5th of May 2008 (Mon), 16:27
Very informative post, thank you!

What are the rules at dirt tracks for using flash? Does it affect the drivers? We're frequent visitors to Big Diamond and Linda's speedways during the year and would love to take some shots.

I don't think is any rules about flashes here in Pa and I talked to several drivers and they say they don't even see the flash's going off.:cool:

picprinter
5th of May 2008 (Mon), 19:24
Thanks everyone for the positive comments.

PhotosGuy, if you think it is worthy of being linked over I am fine with that. Actually I'd be proud if I actually said something worth having linked over there. LOL

Jlozano, I make no reference to aperture because there is no "right" aperture. Once you figure out what shutter speed you need for the amount of effect you want you can select an ISO and aperture based upon how much depth of field you want or how much noise you're willing to live with.

gdrMatt, Thanks for pointing that out Matt. I personally have never had much luck getting anything I like shooting that slow. In my opinion that is because of two factors in dirt track racing. First is that the track is so rough and the cars are not only moving across your plane but they are bouncing and hopping an awful lot as well. Proper pan will take care of the car moving across the plane but I haven't figured out how to keep up with the bouncing and hopping around short of using shutter speed to minimize the blur from that. Second is that to my taste I tend to try and catch the car while it is still coming at me. Again, short of running backwards really fast ( as fast as the car ), I can't think of a way to keep the car sharp other than using shutter speed.

As far as using flash at a dirt track. I have never had a problem were I was told I couldn't use my flash. Actually, the first time they raced NASCAR at night at Richmond Speedway I was one of the few who were using flash. This was in the day of film, very few photographers were shooting digital except for the AP and the such. There were all kinds of comments said in the Media Room about us "Friday Night photographers" and using flash but it just seemed natural to me coming from the local dirt track to use my flash there at night. I know I've heard it over and over again on this and other boards that flash photography doesn't look natural but my customers all tend to disagree and want me to shoot flash. And after all, they are the ones who pay my bills. Anyway, back to Richmond, some of us had our Busch stuff processed and brought it back to the track the day of the Cup Race. . . my what a difference between my 400 ASA Fuji Film shot with flash compared to the pushed 800 ASA, 1600 ASA or 3200 ASA film those available light guys were using. I've never had a driver complain to me about the flash and I talk to many of them on a weekly basis.

DDan
5th of May 2008 (Mon), 19:37
I just went to an offroad motorcycle race that ran in the dark. I talked to several riders and they all thought the flash would be fine if I didn't point it in their face. I shot broadside all night and everyone said they didn't even notice the flash.

PixMan79
10th of May 2008 (Sat), 20:21
Nice post picprinter!

John Thawley
10th of May 2008 (Sat), 21:40
Sorry... I strongly disagree with this. You're freezing the wheels and making the cars look like cardboard cutouts. Besides that, they just look like daylight shots taken at too fast a shutter.

We're not shooting Tri-x or pushing film to 800 ASA... we have cameras that shoot phenomenal quality at 1600 ISO easily.

Sorry, I think you're handing out bad information.

JT

NO FLASH:
http://gallery.johnthawley.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=106477&g2_serialNumber=1

http://gallery.johnthawley.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=106487&g2_serialNumber=1

http://gallery.johnthawley.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=106475&g2_serialNumber=1

Brandon Anderson Photos
10th of May 2008 (Sat), 23:12
no i think its great advice...

everyone has their own style of shooting, hes just sharing his

gdrMatt
11th of May 2008 (Sun), 03:02
i agree with John, when it gets to dark to shoot at a noisy 1600 ISO just put your cameras away and go home or hit the bar earlier.. more time to party after a long day at the track.. don't worry about learning new ways to shoot or experimenting with lights... who needs all tho extra photos to fix in photoshop or noise ninja anyway.

:rolleyes::rolleyes:

PhotosGuy
11th of May 2008 (Sun), 10:19
With a lot of the questions I've seen on this topic, I still think this is a good start on shooting night racing.
That is not to say that more detailed advanced info, like how you arrived at your choice of exposure, wouldn't be welcome from those using "more advanced" exposure techniques? ;)
Some sharp example images illustrating your workflow would be nice, too.

PixMan79
11th of May 2008 (Sun), 10:59
Sorry... I strongly disagree with this. You're freezing the wheels and making the cars look like cardboard cutouts. Besides that, they just look like daylight shots taken at too fast a shutter.

We're not shooting Tri-x or pushing film to 800 ASA... we have cameras that shoot phenomenal quality at 1600 ISO easily.

Sorry, I think you're handing out bad information.

JT



I agree with Brandon Anderson Photos "everyone has their own style of shooting", but if I was buying prints of my favorite driver I would go with those "cardboard cutouts"

Brandon Anderson Photos
11th of May 2008 (Sun), 11:56
I do like the ones without the flash but they seem to be oof and too dark for my tastes... you can always use a flash and not hit them with full power and i think they will look alot better.....

for the most part I use my flash when shooting all the time, even in the daylight it just helps even out the shadows and what not... but then again there are times when I wont use a flash all nite it just depends on what I am looking for that nite.

gdrMatt
11th of May 2008 (Sun), 13:28
for the most part I use my flash when shooting all the time, even in the daylight it just helps even out the shadows and what not... but then again there are times when I wont use a flash all nite it just depends on what I am looking for that nite.


i do the same thing.. i always have a flash on my camera. for fill during the day or i bounce it off the ceiling or wall for inside shots... or nighttime shooting...

John Thawley
12th of May 2008 (Mon), 10:09
I do like the ones without the flash but they seem to be oof and too dark for my tastes... you can always use a flash and not hit them with full power and i think they will look alot better.....

for the most part I use my flash when shooting all the time, even in the daylight it just helps even out the shadows and what not... but then again there are times when I wont use a flash all nite it just depends on what I am looking for that nite.

Actually, unless you are going to play with second curtain sync.. and other unpredictable techniques, the flash dictates the exposure, not the shutter. That's why so many of the sprint car shots display the Hoosier tire lettering so prominently.

Sorry... but to me, it's night racing... shoot the night racing. If you want brightly lit parked cars, shoot during the day.

Just my opinion.... I suppose I could be wrong. LOL

Brandon Anderson Photos
12th of May 2008 (Mon), 12:35
Here are a few examples of what im talking about with using your flash at a lower power.

This first one has the wheels frozen but the backround if blured and this is the effect i was looking for in this shot.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g157/andersonproductions/IMG_9281.jpg


the next two seem to show wheel blur pretty well and again it was with a flash

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g157/andersonproductions/n550535037_1475719_8603.jpg

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g157/andersonproductions/n550535037_1333836_6430.jpg

so imo I think you can use a flash in night racing and show motion.. its just what kind of motion you want to show.

gdrMatt
13th of May 2008 (Tue), 08:18
some cool night shots with flashes...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2232/2384482343_68dc7675df_o.jpg

gdrMatt
13th of May 2008 (Tue), 09:32
it's all opinion.. it doesn't hurt to learn a new technique tho. the original post can help someone understand how the flash works and use it in other areas of photography.. not just motorsports.

Cadwell
14th of May 2008 (Wed), 13:33
Since this thread resolutely refuses to get back on topic enough is enough.