Canon 40 D - Mistake???

[betty1704]

I just "upgraded" from an Olympus E 500 to a Canon 40D.
The reason why upgraded is in iverted commas is because I haven't taken a picture yet with the new camera better than the ones taken with the Olympus.
It's been a month and I'm still thinking "It's not the equipment, it's the photographer"... but I was the photographer with the Olympus.
Maybe, being an amateur, I am still not comfortable with the new settings but 80% of my pictures are coming out out of focus and over exposed.
I know I am a hard critic, but at least I would expect an average photo.
Out of 700 pictures taken, I was satisfied (not wowed) with 2 or 3 pictures.

The first thing I hated about the Canon was the on-off button position.

Any comments?

[sandpiper]

Difficult to comment without seeing more details and a picture or two.

The 40D has a very nice focusing system, so shouldn't be giving that many oof results. It could be a faulty camera and need recalibrating to correct front / back focusing issues. It could (I'm not saying it IS) be down to you using the wrong modes, if it is significantly different to your olympus.

Post a pic or two, saying if you were using multi-point, centre point and recompose, selected outer AF point etc. As well as whether you were in one shot or AI servo mode etc.

We'll give you better advice when we know all the info.

[rammy]

Welcome to POTN.

What are you doing different with the 40D compared to your Olympus.

Take a read through this:

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=414088

[Keith R]

You're also not telling us what you think is "less" in the 40D's pics...

Oh - and what lens? Are you shooting hand held or with a tripod? Are you taking similar pictures in similar light conditions? How are you processing your pics? Are the in-camera settings the same in each camera?

Etc.

You get the gist, Betty - more information, please.

[Steve Beck]

Classic example of the artist behind the camera and not the equipment not making the artist, sorta.

Lens, technique and learning how to really use the functions of the camera and not shooitng in fully auto mode all the time.

[betty1704]

Example: monkey photo taken with Olympus, lion photo taken with Canon 40D.
Both taken in Kruger Park, around midday, sunny day, unedited.
In Kruger park I tend to use shutter priority as I'm not using a tripod and you never know what will appear around the corner.
With lions you have time to try a few different exposures as they are fairly inactive during the day but most other animals you have a few seconds to take "the shot".

I took the Canon to the dealers on Saturday (ended up buying another camera for my husband - Olympus SP570UZ), who tested it and saisd that both the focus and light meter are working OK.
I guess I have to keep on getting accustomed to Canon and do a few more courses...

[rammy]

The lion shot was taken at F/10, 300mm at 1/20 shutter speed. Much too slow to hand hold at that focal length for a guaranteed sharp shot. Open up the aperture a few stops until you get at least a 1/250 shutter speed, better still 1/500. Up the ISO to 200 if you need to.

Stick to the (1/focal length x crop multiplier) rule. I don't know how sharp the 70-300mm lens is, at 300mm most lenses aren't that sharp.

[FlexiPack]

Yes the lion shot at 1/20 is much to low a shutter speed handheld at 300mm even with IS. Even on a tripod you couldn't guarantee a sharp shot because of slight subject movement. To me the monkey looks a little out of focus.

I think what you're getting at is the monkey picture has a pop about it? More vivid colours? I notice in the Olympus exif the saturation is set to 'high' whereas on the 40D it's set at standard picture mode. Try the Landscape picture style for more vivid colours.

You didn't mention if you do any post processing. Basic contrast and saturation adjustments are always needed on Canons. Maybe the olympus models do more on camera processing for their jpegs. Did you shoot jpeg or raw?

[poloman]

Time for some study....
Once you get it down, you will not be able to produce as good a picture with the p&S as you can with your DSLR.

[Tsmith]

Understanding Exposure (http://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Exposure-Photographs-Digital-Updated/dp/0817463003/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1211244466&sr=1-1) < go ahead and click it _ ;)

[Tom_D]

Another vote for the Peterson book - lots of pictures...

[Doublea17]

another vote also on book after reading manual second book I read going from P&S to 40D the book helped alot

[Glenn NK]

As noted already (but I'm compelled to say it) - a picture taken at 1/20 second simply isn't going to be a sharp as one taken at 1/200 second - if all things are equal.

But they aren't equal - the one at 1/20 second is with a 200 mm lens. A rough rule of thumb for shutter speed is the reciprocal of (FL x crop factor) = 1/(200 x 1.6) = 1/320.

Now the lion picture is with a 300 mm FL which should use a shutter speed of 1/(300 x 1.6) = 1/480 or 1/500 second.

The 40D didn't stand a chance on this comparison.

[PhotosGuy]

With lions you have time to try a few different exposures Why not try one "right" one?
How the subject affects the exposure & why manual keeps me worry free:
Post #47 (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showpost.php?p=5191658&postcount=47)

First set the f-stop & shutter speed you need. Then adjust the ISO.
Need an exposure crutch? (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=89123)

[betty1704]

Thanks everyone for your responses. Photography is overwhelming.
The more I study, the more I reach the conclusion that" I know nothing". Fortunately I am headstrong and I'll get there ...eventually.
I understand what you mean. I probably tried manual mode and set the exposure at F10 and the camera meter gave me a 1/20 shutter speed, which I know it shouldn't be handheld and thus rested the camera on a makeshift tripod "stationary car window". I know, I know it's pretty stupid.
Shouldn't I rather, in these instances, use shutter priority according to FL and adjust the ISO?
I have also read that a pretty good rule of thumb is to use a shutter speed equal or above the FL, say for a FL of 300 use 1/300 or faster.
Thanks once again. I'll read more on exposure and keep on practicing.
What I think I am best at in photography is "having an eye for composition", I just need to fine tune the technical details.

[cfcRebel]

I understand what you mean. I probably tried manual mode and set the exposure at F10 and the camera meter gave me a 1/20 shutter speed, which I know it shouldn't be handheld and thus rested the camera on a makeshift tripod "stationary car window". I know, I know it's pretty stupid.
Shouldn't I rather, in these instances, use shutter priority according to FL and adjust the ISO?
It's fine to use Av in your situation. If f8 or f10 gives you slow shutter speed, just increase your ISO from 100 to maybe 400. Also, check your "Exposure Compensation" setting. I normally use EC=0 if the subject is in shade. If the subject has directly sunlight, then maybe EC= -0.33.

To give you more perspective, I shoot with 20D+Sigma 50-500mm in Av mode (mostly at 500mm FL). I use car window alot as make shift tripod too. My aperture and ISO are quite constant at f8 and ISO400, respectively. That usually yields enough shutter speed for my bird & dragonfly photography.

[Glenn NK]

I have also read that a pretty good rule of thumb is to use a shutter speed equal or above the FL, say for a FL of 300 use 1/300 or faster.

Yes, but one should also multiply the FL by the crop factor (1.6 for the 40D body); for a 300 mm lens the shutter speed would be (1.6 x 300 = 480) yielding 1/480 or 1/500th.

Trust me on this - there was a thread back in January wherein I took the opposite view and was proven wrong.:oops:

[betty1704]

I just ordered the "Understanding exposures" book but ... here is a dumb and yet logical question that bugs me:
Assuming that there is only one "right or perfect exposure" for one picture, what would be the difference between , say hypothetically a F 13-1/250, F16-1/125 or F11-1/500 assuming that the light meter in all 3 exposures is at zero? (I understand that the picture will come out different if you change just one of the settings e.g if F13-1/250 is the correct exposure and you take F13-1/125 your picture will be overexposed or F13-1/500 will be underexposed) but what are the consequences of changing both as long as the light meter reads correctly?

[SuzyView]

Yes, if you are like me, I need a tutor. The book is like a tutor. Learn the settings of the 40D. It's a great camera. I started with a Canon AE-1 Program. I thought the Program meant it didn't need any setting put into it. I overexposed a whole vacation. Thank heavens for digital. I immediately learned my settings were wrong for outdoors. Read the manual, get some experience with the buttons, maybe save for a good prime lens and see what happens. Have to start somewhere.

[cfcRebel]

Assuming that there is only one "right or perfect exposure" for one picture, what would be the difference between , say hypothetically a F 13-1/250, F16-1/125 or F11-1/500 assuming that the light meter in all 3 exposures is at zero? (I understand that the picture will come out different if you change just one of the settings e.g if F13-1/250 is the correct exposure and you take F13-1/125 your picture will be overexposed or F13-1/500 will be underexposed) but what are the consequences of changing both as long as the light meter reads correctly?One thing for sure will be different is the Depth of Field. Some photographers prefer narrower Depth of Field so that the subject stands out better from the background (i.e. subject is in focus but more blur in the backgroun). Hence they shoot at larger aperture, f8 instead of f13, for example. Also, if the subject is moving, larger aperture+faster shutter combo is more capable of freezing the subject's motion. For example, if a zebra is sprinting, as you pan your camera tracking the subject, slow shutter speed is prone to subject motion blur and/or blur caused by camera shake. In that case, f11-1/500s as you listed above, is better. Or better still, f8-1/750s. :)

[stillresonance]

I just ordered the "Understanding exposures" book but ... here is a dumb and yet logical question that bugs me:
Assuming that there is only one "right or perfect exposure" for one picture, what would be the difference between , say hypothetically a F 13-1/250, F16-1/125 or F11-1/500 assuming that the light meter in all 3 exposures is at zero? (I understand that the picture will come out different if you change just one of the settings e.g if F13-1/250 is the correct exposure and you take F13-1/125 your picture will be overexposed or F13-1/500 will be underexposed) but what are the consequences of changing both as long as the light meter reads correctly?

Don't think of it being that there is only one "right" exposure, instead think of it as being what exposure do you need to get your desired intent. Once you determine your EV there is actcually many different combinations of shutter and aperature that will yield the same exposure.

Say for example you come up with 1/125 @f16, you could also shoot 1/250 @f11 or 1/500 @ f8 or 1/1000 @ f5.6 or 1/2000 @ f4 or 1/4000 @ f2.8 or 1/8000 @ f2. There is a reciprocal nature between shutter speed and aperature. If you change one of them a a whole stop you can get the same EV by adjusting the other by a whole stop, increase shutter speed, open up the aperature. Decrease shutter speed, stop down the aperature.

As you move up or down the scale of possible combinations of shutter and aperature you just have to keep in mind the affects of slower/faster shutter and narrower/wider aperature.

You can see for your self by setting your camera to P and then metering something then turn the dial on top and you should see that as you turn the dial one way the aperature will open up and the shutter speed will increase or if you turn it the other was the aperature will stop down and the shutter speed will decrease. Not all camera's do this by the way it's just a nice feature that Canon has built in to the P mode

[Bobster]

the olympus has built in IS doesn't it?

you'll need to invest in some IS glass

[poloman]

Uh-oh.....
That nice inexpensive IS glass.
I love mine. You forget the cost after a while. :) :)

[betty1704]

...narrower Depth of Field so that the subject stands out better from the background (i.e. subject is in focus but more blur in the backgroun).

In South Africa we say shallow depth of field instead of narrow depth of field:)
I must remember that narrow = shallow or it will become confusing fro me.

[betty1704]

Yes, if you are like me, I need a tutor. The book is like a tutor.

I'm a manual freak, I read all manuals and related literature

[poloman]

You have ordered a great book. :)
He has others that are also great reading......

[Glenn NK]

...narrower Depth of Field so that the subject stands out better from the background (i.e. subject is in focus but more blur in the backgroun).

In South Africa we say shallow depth of field instead of narrow depth of field:)
I must remember that narrow = shallow or it will become confusing fro me.

I too would use the term shallow rather than narrow (shallow being a descriptor for depth), but as long as the context makes it clear, I wouldn't quibble about it.:lol:

As a "manual reader" you are quite rare around here - my hat's off to you - there is so much information in that little book that so many just seem to ignore.

[TaCo]

I just ordered the "Understanding exposures" book but ... here is a dumb and yet logical question that bugs me:
Assuming that there is only one "right or perfect exposure" for one picture, what would be the difference between , say hypothetically a F 13-1/250, F16-1/125 or F11-1/500 assuming that the light meter in all 3 exposures is at zero? (I understand that the picture will come out different if you change just one of the settings e.g if F13-1/250 is the correct exposure and you take F13-1/125 your picture will be overexposed or F13-1/500 will be underexposed) but what are the consequences of changing both as long as the light meter reads correctly?

The others have answered this question very nicely. I'm about 3 months into my 40D and that book you are going to get explains this very question also. Very easy reading and very helpful.

You may also want to search the forum for a .pdf file that was posted that is a "Canon User's Help File" for "Understanding Exposure". I just found it here today and it is very helpful.

Good luck... you'll get it. But once you get it... it's then hard to keep it. :) I go back to that book often, just to re-get it. :lol:

RH

[Souwalker]

You may also want to search the forum for a .pdf file that was posted that is a "Canon User's Help File" for "Understanding Exposure". I just found it here today and it is very helpful.


I searched with no luck. Can somepostthe link?
Thanks
Pat

[PhotosGuy]

Also, check your "Exposure Compensation" setting. From the link I gave him: So, they're compensating for the meters guestimation of what it's pointing at by guestimating an EC factor & maybe further guestimating another factor for the metering mode? Does this seem easy to you?
For me, it's easier to get the exposure correct at the beginning, & shoot on "M".

While ***MANUAL!!!*** sounds more difficult for a beginner, the total process seems easier to me go get one right setting at the beginning & forget about EC until they have a better understanding of what the meter is "thinking".

[LeuceDeuce]

Don't be afraid to push the ISO on your 40D. The noise is very low. I've shot many images at 1600 and even 3200 when needed, and the results were very good.

Since you're using a system with a crop body, you should be aiming for shutter speeds of 1/FL*1.6 so at 300mm you should be going for a speed of 1/500 without IS.

[poloman]

If you are shooting birds or kids or small animals, keep the shutter speeds high even with shorter lenses. They make small quick movements that will cause motion blur. IS does not stop blur caused by the subject's movement. Set your camera so that the histogram is displayed after you take a shot. Look at it. The right side of the graph should just barely touch the right side of the screen unless there are no bright tones in the scene. You don't want it piled up on the right side. Take pictures of a white card, black card, and an 18% gray card. Look at the histogram in each case.....

[lungdoc]

I can see almost no reason to ever shoot wildlife at small apertures, as higher shutter speeds virtually always help with long lenses and motion usually not desirable (maybe a rare exception when you want to convey some motion). For most lenses even with a converter that means I wouldn't shoot at smaller than 5.6 (f/8 at the most).