My Soccer Experience sucked

[adblink]

ok so i shot my first soccer game(s) at my youngest sisters high school match twice this week

gear used: Canon XTI, 70-200F/4 + 1.4x TC

Settings: ISO 200, F/5.6, and shutter speeds no lower then 800, AF Servo


out of 100 images, I got max 16 keepers the first game, and like half that the second game. The problem is I can't track for ****! I don't know if its me or the camera but no matter what, a ton of the images the focus is on something ELSE rather then the player I want. Could be the background, the players in the background, the grass etc. Its almost like the camera doesn't adjust when tracking for the moving object, it just focuses in and out and you have to try and catch it when its focused on the target.

I'm shooting with center point only. Is it me or is it the gear I'm using?

[Nemesismachine]

do you close both eyes when you shoot? I know that sounds ridiculous, but thats what i was doing and it made it hard to get panning shots. That and the extra stop you were restricted to didn't help either...

[KirkHMB]

What focus mode are you using? I shoot in AI servo, which tracks. Not sure if your XTi has it, but you don't want one shot. I Also separate the focus to the * button, again not sure you can do that.

[adblink]

yes i was shooting servo the whole time. Why does moving the focus to the * button make it easier for you? Figured it would just be easier keeping the focusing and the shutter in the same button

[swjim]

If you move the focus to the * button you can just hold down the * button and click with the shutter button when you want to capture an image. Many here consider it easier than half depressing the shutter button as you're tracking (me included).

[Naturalist]

It was hard for me to adapt to using the * button for focusing but once I did get used to it, well, its great!

Right thumb on the * Button and left on the Depth of Field preview!!

[wayovrpar]

Here's a thought (from someone who has shot 2000 pictures of soccer in the last month)....I'm not a pro, or even close to one, but why not try to get 2 or 3 shot bursts instead of 10-20 shot bursts. Chasing the ball hoping to get a shot is a frustrating lifestyle. I know the game so I try to get one step ahead of the ball. Do I get every shot? No....but my keeper rate is very high. Play with single shot mode until you get comfortable with the game, then start following the play. Unless you are on the payroll, knowbody is going to kill you if you miss the shot of the last goal.

Go to a practice and, well, practice. Depending on the age of the kids...younger kids tend to one touch the ball (they just kick it when it comes near them), so shoot right when the ball gets to them. Older kids will use multiple touches and you don't have to shoot right when they get the ball. Get your focus point set (center) and shoot when they pass or shoot.

Like I said, I'm not a pro, or even a seasoned shooter, but I rarely blast off more than 5 shots in a burst.

Just MHO....

Cheers

[adblink]

thanks for the tips/opinions. I'll try moving focusing to the * button and see how that plays out.

i don't think my timing or componsition is off, there are a ton of images from the 2 games I shot that would have been awesome keepers, if they were just in focus! I have a few sitting here that the 2 players fighting for the ball are just a tad blurry, but the third player just off in the background is tac sharp, even tho they are off to the left and i am using center point

[bobbyz]

First I will loose the TC. Let the action come close. Start with ISO400 to get higher ss.

Like mentioned * button at the back for focussing really helps in AI servo mode and center AF point. You need to practice acquiring the target by pressing the * button while center AF point is on your subject, keep tracking while keeping the * button pressed and when moment is right press shutter while keep * pressed with the thumb.

If for some reason you loose target, let go off the * button and start again.

And post some of the shots.

[JohnJ80]

First I will loose the TC. Let the action come close. Start with ISO400 to get higher ss.

Like mentioned * button at the back for focussing really helps in AI servo mode and center AF point. You need to practice acquiring the target by pressing the * button while center AF point is on your subject, keep tracking while keeping the * button pressed and when moment is right press shutter while keep * pressed with the thumb.

If for some reason you loose target, let go off the * button and start again.

And post some of the shots.

Yes, good advice.

Also, wait for the action to come to you and position yourself where it will be. Don't shoot until the subject fills most or all of the VF (will pretty much guarantee that you focus on what you want to). Also, shoot only in portrait mode and use a monopod.

What not to do -

Don't try and shoot across the whole field. Won't work and you will have problems with AF (my bet, this the problem).

Lose the TC. You don't need it for soccer if you can get to the sidelines with a crop camera and a 70-200.

Don't be worried about bursts. In point of fact, the burst rate of the XTi is probably too slow to be all that helpful or useful. Time your shots and anticipate the action instead.

I've shot thousands and thousands of soccer shots of kids games. My keeper rate is pretty good as well. It comes from knowing the game, knowing what shot you want to get and of who and then "stalking" that shot.

J.

[adblink]

lose the TC, really? I havent counted but i would say at least 75% of the images were between the 200-280mm range (thanks to the tc). The problem is these girls don't play the field at all. They will spend a good portion of the half totally on one side of the field, switch to the other for awhile and then spend the rest of the game back on the other side.

without the TC, I have a feeling i would be running to one side of the field and back to the other side trying to stay with the action then actual shooting. Right now, I have been shooting at the end of the field that my "Team" is in when on the offensive. How much moving around do you guys do? (besides when they change ends at half time of course)

i was definitely shooting with a monopod so that helped alot. I tried shooting in portrait but i could never frame the action enough, it gave me too narrow of a window to try and frame the subject. I'm sure it just comes in practice. I bought a collar for my 70-200 so when that shows up, ill try some portraits again.

[JohnJ80]

lose the TC, really? I havent counted but i would say at least 75% of the images were between the 200-280mm range (thanks to the tc). The problem is these girls don't play the field at all. They will spend a good portion of the half totally on one side of the field, switch to the other for awhile and then spend the rest of the game back on the other side.

without the TC, I have a feeling i would be running to one side of the field and back to the other side trying to stay with the action then actual shooting. Right now, I have been shooting at the end of the field that my "Team" is in when on the offensive. How much moving around do you guys do? (besides when they change ends at half time of course)

i was definitely shooting with a monopod so that helped alot. I tried shooting in portrait but i could never frame the action enough, it gave me too narrow of a window to try and frame the subject. I'm sure it just comes in practice. I bought a collar for my 70-200 so when that shows up, ill try some portraits again.

There's your problem right there.

You need to go where the play is. Shooting from edge of field to edge of field is going to be low percentage shot plagued with all the things you say - AF difficulties etc...

Often one team is stronger than the other. THat means the play will spend much more time down in front of one goal over the other. Go there. Spend time down at the corners of the field. The play will come there at some point and you will get good action shots. In point of fact, it is much better (IMO) shooting there because the play is more coming at you instead of crossing in front of you.

It is ok to not have the whole player in the frame. That happens all the time and it is fine. Try for faces and the ball in the same frame.

Shoot in Av or in M. If in Av set metering for matrix/evaluative with teh (*) symbol (can't remember the name) and then adjust EC as appropriate. Spot metering, for example, is a disaster.

Finally, the 70-200 is fast but adding a TC will slow the AF down just a touch. That can be enough to make it tough with AF on a fast moving target. Also, at a widest aperture of f/5.6, you are getting to the edge on the AF's ability.

Hey, no one said it was easy.... If you are getting 10% keepers you're doing OK.

J.

[chadmcm]

Spend time down at the corners of the field. The play will come there at some point and you will get good action shots.

Watch the league rules. I agree that the corners (or off the end line between the goal and the corner) is a great place to get action for all the reasons described, but our local youth leagues don't allow spectators (which could become coaches) below the top of the penalty area. As a referee, I'm somewhat understanding when a parent just wants to stand quietly and take photos, but not all of them are. I also require that they keep their mouth shut while they're back there.

Good luck. I'm on the same learning curve myself with a 70-300. All the rest of you, thanks for the pointers. I'm off to shoot my son's tournament this weekend!

[danaitch]

I'd echo the one-off comment above regarding your aperture. Why shoot at f5.6 when your lens would accommodate f4?! Granted soccer is a difficult one, but it just takes practice.

I find halfway along the sideline between the goal and the centre-spot is best. You can get goalmouth action, and also the aerial battles in the middle of the field when the goalkeeper hoofs it out. :)

[bobbyz]

OK, I shoot soccer with 500mm f4 IS and even then it is not enough to shoot far end when I am behing the goal on the other side.

1.4xTC on any zoom slows down AF quite a lot (on something like XT) and also degrades the picture quality. You got to know the teams, based on which side is strong, most of the time plays will be on one side. Stand close to the goal on that side and let players come to you.

I prefer around goal as it gives clean backgrounds. I usually sit on grass with my 500mm but with 70-200mm it is hard as you need to move. But do shoot from lower shooting position.

When using AI servo mode you need to track and take multiple shots. First shot can be OOF just beause of the nature of the AI servo on your camera.

[adblink]

Why shoot at f5.6 when your lens would accommodate f4?!

because it means the difference between 200mm and 280mm, and when trying to get the least amount of dead space, i figured going for the longer reach was by far the better option

also i was under the impression, at around 5.6 the DOP would give me more chances to get the players in focus

[JohnJ80]

I'd echo the one-off comment above regarding your aperture. Why shoot at f5.6 when your lens would accommodate f4?! Granted soccer is a difficult one, but it just takes practice.

I find halfway along the sideline between the goal and the centre-spot is best. You can get goalmouth action, and also the aerial battles in the middle of the field when the goalkeeper hoofs it out. :)

The reason to stop down a stop is two fold:

1. it you are getting the separation (background blur) you want, then it is fine and the DOF isn't as shallow - helps to give the AF a little breathing room.

2. Most lenses are sharper when they are stopped down somewhat. The widest stop is generally the softest. My 70-200 f/4L IS likes is good at f/4 but it is better at somewhere between f/4 and f/5.6. My 300mm f/4L IS like to be at f/4.5 or tighter. F/4 is not as sharp.

Finally to the comments above about position on the field. In our area leagues, you can be anywhere along one side of the field - so you do need to check on the league/tournament rules. I've often asked the refs if I can shoot from the end lines and I've yet to be turned down - just keep quiet and out of the way.

J.

[AdamC]

ok so i shot my first soccer game(s) at my youngest sisters high school match twice this week

gear used: Canon XTI, 70-200F/4 + 1.4x TC

Settings: ISO 200, F/5.6, and shutter speeds no lower then 800, AF Servo


out of 100 images, I got max 16 keepers the first game, and like half that the second game. The problem is I can't track for ****! I don't know if its me or the camera but no matter what, a ton of the images the focus is on something ELSE rather then the player I want. Could be the background, the players in the background, the grass etc. Its almost like the camera doesn't adjust when tracking for the moving object, it just focuses in and out and you have to try and catch it when its focused on the target.

I'm shooting with center point only. Is it me or is it the gear I'm using?

There is nothing wrong with 16 keepers from 100 shots - I've heard very experienced soccer shooters say they aim for a ~10% keeper rate, so don't beat yourself up over that. As for finding the focus on the wrong thing, yeah that happens, even with centre-point only. If you're anything like me, you have a hard time keeping up with the action and keep it it steady as well. Remember that AI servo mode needs a few moments to track the subject (depending on your lens.)

HTH

[Big Hands]

I had the 70-200 f/4L for six months, before selling it to get the f/2.8L version. My primary use was shooting youth soccer (generally U14 through U19 and high school matches).

I agree about losing the TC. It will knock your keeper rate noticeably lower due to AF issues. I still own the Canon 1.4x TC, but I don't even take it with me anymore when shooting soccer.

Don't worry about covering every inch of the pitch or missing 'the play'. I can cover a high school match only shooting from one spot and shoot over 1,000 frames and usually come away with over 100 keepers and usually a dozen+/- that I especially like.

IMHO, the single perfect soccer lens does not exist. You will not find a lens that does it all perfectly. You can find lenses that have a good range for soccer, but the max aperture is too small IMHO to get the best quality. Plain and simple, the image quality is not what I am willing to live with when I have other choices.

So, that leaves you with more limited zoom ranges or single focal length lenses that are capable of taking higher quality soccer shots. The zoom ranges of lenses that are consistently capable of taking soccer shots I aspire to take are 70-200, 100-300 or 120-300. None of them will cover the whole field. I suggest accepting it, getting over it and moving on to a solution you can live with.

If you feel you must cover every inch of the pitch with high quality capability, then you will need at least two rigs, so we'll leave that to another discussion.

This is about you and your 70-200 and whether or not it is capable. IMHO, it is capable of getting plenty of crisp, sharp shots from a match. The one thing I didn't care for was the f/4 aperture. I very much prefer the f/2.8 capability for the background separation, especially at the wider end.

First thing I would recommend would be to stop chaing the action. Let it come to you. But where should you be to let it come to you?

The first thing I do is to consider the position of the sun. If the sun is shining, I want it behind me as much as possible. If I can't get good, even exposure, the image quality will already be a challenge, so I don't try to fight the sun if at all possible. Shadows on faces and/or uniforms is hard for the camera to deal with. Not usually worth the trouble to try to post process either IMHO if you can avoid it.

Next, I consider the backgrounds that will likely be in a majority of my shots. I don't want trash cans, portapotties, parking lots or other distracting clutter in the backgrounds if I can avoid them. Once that is sorted out, I have to deal with the field itself. I can shoot from the touchline just fine, but i prefer to shoot from behind the goal line... even with the 70-200 f/2.8L on my (1.6x crop) 20D.

I like shooting from there because I can get excellent action coming toward me. There is usually less chnace of other players getting in the way compared to shooting with my 400mm and many times there is less backgound clutter at the fields I go to behind the goal lines. I can cover out past midfield from there with decent results and the nearest 1/3 of the field with excellent results. Also, shooting from behind the goal line, you aren't swinging the camera from side to side as much as when on the touchline and if the sun is behind you there, facial shadows at the extremes are not as prevalent. Like I said, this is enough opportunity to shoot over 1,000 frames and should get you more than enough shots you like. Both teams will attack and defend this end of the field over the course of a match so you should be able to get shots of all participants.

As for using the * to focus, it is far from necessary and not the source of your problems. If you find you prefer it, them knock yourself out, but don't get hung up on it being the source of your current frustration.

I do recommend using AI Servo and center point focus. AI Servo for tracking as the player moves toward and away from you and center point focus so you know where the focus point will be and can quickly compose your shots accordingly. I find success putting the focus point at or near the upper body, especially the chest or head.

I only occasionally use a burst and instead rely on good timing of a single shot. This takes practice to get the timing of peak action down, but produces more consistent results for me.

I do use a battery grip so I can shoot mostly in portrait orientation and usually sit in a chair and use a monopod to keep the rig pointed at the action. I shoot in Av mode (almost always with the aperture wide open), and use ISO to keep the shutter speeds from 1/500 to around 1/2000 if at all possible (trying to keep the ISO at 100 or 200 is possible).

Soccer is a fast moving game and you cannot possibly be in a psoition to get perfect shots of every play. You'll get lots of shots that don't work for one reason or another, but it's not about what I don't get, it's about what I do get. Just try to get the best shots that you can. Quality over quantity. Then increase quantity as you get better.

Here's a gallery from a high school match that was shot wth a 20D and 70-200 f/2.8L all taken from one area. I say 'area' because I did move once (about 20 yards down the touchline) at this match, but frequently don't move at all:

http://imageevent.com/johansen01/westranchsoccer0708/wrhsgvhs011107

Bottom line, your rig is capable. Just slow down and go for image quality first.

Also, if you don't mind, I would like to see an example of your better shots.

I also agree with Adam C's post just above this one.

[adblink]

well bighands, first I must say a HUGE thank you for taking the time to write that very informative and helpful post, I do GREATLY appreciate it!

So judging by some of the things you said, I'm not too far off in the settings I have been using (same iso, same mode, same shutter speeds, same setup (monopod), ALMOST same location (near the corner)). The 2 games I've tried to shoot thus far, I haven't even bothered to turn on burst, so no worries there.


I will ask the ref if its ok next game (this monday& tuesday) to shoot on the goal line, but how close to the goal do you normally get? These aren't large fields, I'm not sure of the dimensions.


Alright, so here is a few images that I was fairly happy with. Your more then welcome to C&C on how I could have done better. The shadows were frustrating just as you had mentioned.




FIRST GAME

http://www.demelophotography.ca/content/Sports/Bishop Ryan Soccer May27/BRsoccerMay27-01.jpg

http://www.demelophotography.ca/content/Sports/Bishop Ryan Soccer May27/BRsoccerMay27-10.jpg

http://www.demelophotography.ca/content/Sports/Bishop Ryan Soccer May27/BRsoccerMay27-14.jpg



SECOND GAME

http://www.demelophotography.ca/content/Sports/Bishop Ryan Soccer May29/BRsoccerMay29-06.jpg

http://www.demelophotography.ca/content/Sports/Bishop Ryan Soccer May29/BRsoccerMay29-10.jpg

http://www.demelophotography.ca/content/Sports/Bishop Ryan Soccer May29/BRsoccerMay29-08.jpg

[Big Hands]

Definitely check with the ref and let them know you know to be quiet.

I would say that your timing could be improved across the board. Every time I start shooting after not having shot soccer for a while, it takes a few outings to tighten up my timing, so just make a concious effort to get the ball as it contacts the players.

1) I cropped out the crossbar and cropped tighter in general
http://photos.imageevent.com/johansen01/pixelpeepersdelight/oddballstuff1/demonstrationstuff1/BRsoccerMay27-01.jpg

2) This is one I wouldn't keep due to the lack of a ball, but I cropped it just to show how much BG clutter could be eliminated by doing so.
http://photos.imageevent.com/johansen01/pixelpeepersdelight/oddballstuff1/demonstrationstuff1/websize/BRsoccerMay27-10.jpg

3) The first thing I noticed in this shot was the posts and pole were not plumbed. This is the first thing I check and correct when post processing. After that, I just cropped it tighter.
http://photos.imageevent.com/johansen01/pixelpeepersdelight/oddballstuff1/demonstrationstuff1/BRsoccerMay27-14.jpg

4) I didn't even do anything to this one as it was the closest to being as I would have left it. Maybe crop it a bit tighter.

5) This one is a great example of when so many thing were right, but one thing is wrong (IMHO). You can't see the player's faces. And the rest isn't compelling enough to make it a rule breaker. You had the most going for this one over the others IMHO, but it still doesn't work for me without the player's faces. If only.....
http://photos.imageevent.com/johansen01/pixelpeepersdelight/oddballstuff1/demonstrationstuff1/websize/BRsoccerMay29-08a.jpg

6) Not bad, just timing is off and I did level it and crop it tighter.
http://photos.imageevent.com/johansen01/pixelpeepersdelight/oddballstuff1/demonstrationstuff1/websize/BRsoccerMay29-10.jpg

Things to remember your next trip out:

- Consider the position of the sun.
- Assess your backgrounds.
- Keep a low perspective. It looks like you do, but I can't say for sure.
- Work on timing and 'peak action'.

Keep shooting and I look forward to your next series.

Regards,
Jeff

[LBaldwin]

In all honesty you've gotten some good advice here but you are using a lens that is not really mean't for sports per se. The 2.8 is the lens to have. The f4 with the TC will only use the center AF sensor and that will be very very slow.

You've gotten good advice on position, timing and such and all that helps. But really you do need at least 300mm to get a decent amount of sensor on target.

Shoot wide open and for the most part vertical. Try to isolate the player(s) and get face and ball in as many shots as possible. The camera is a whole different issue. The shutter lag on it will probably cause you to miss some shots, too. But the main issue is slow lenses with a TC.

[AdamC]

but you are using a lens that is not really mean't for sports per se.


That doesn't mean you can't get good results with the 70-200/4. I'm using this same lens for soccer and I'm reasonably happy with the results. Remember too that the 2.8 is not much less than double the price, and not all of us have that sort of money to throw around.

[LBaldwin]

That doesn't mean you can't get good results with the 70-200/4. I'm using this same lens for soccer and I'm reasonably happy with the results. Remember too that the 2.8 is not much less than double the price, and not all of us have that sort of money to throw around.

Sure you can use it for anything - don't disagree there. But what happens when the OP gets pulled further from the pitch - behind a barrier and the sun goes down? These things are all more than possible during a state or regional final!!

Forgive me I have only been shooting sports for a few weeks now and thought it best to give my opinion...:rolleyes:
EDIT: yes it is more expensive - but for that extra cost you get faster AF in lower light and more keepers and the ability to use that 1.4. Do the answer to the issue is still the same. Save your pennies till you get enough and sell the f/4 and upgrade. After all with f/4 and the 1.4 she has nearly 800USD already invested...:p

[PhotosGuy]

As for using the * to focus, it is far from necessary and not the source of your problems. If you find you prefer it, them knock yourself out, but don't get hung up on it being the source of your current frustration. I totally agree with that, & I don't use it. What I do find extremely useful, & I suspect that you don't have this option, is to use C.Fn-13 (1) to put the focus points on my joystick (multi controller) which makes it easy to switch when things are moving fast.
So maybe, if you're going to shoot a lot of sports, consider a used 20-30D as a 2nd camera. This would also allow you to have a wide angle handy if/when the action gets really close to you.

Radio Controlled Boats (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=101101)

I have never understood the point of multiple af points. (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?p=967013)

[adblink]

- Keep a low perspective. It looks like you do, but I can't say for sure.


now this is something i really didnt do. I was using a monopod almost at eye level (I'm 6'). Figured the girls being a tad older it was ok. Should I be shooting lower?

also i was thinking about your background comments, wouldn't shooting at the goalline make it extremely difficult to get clutter free backgrounds? seeing as you will probably capture half the team behind your subjects, vs an empty touchline on the other side of the field?

[JohnJ80]

You are getting there. Shoot portrait - you'll find it easy if you shoot when players are in the frame close together. Then crop it close. It's ok to cut off a leg or arm here or there (just don't do it at the joint - above or below) when you crop.

These images above will benefit from much closer cropping. I think you will find that will help hugely.

J.

[adblink]

god I can't stand this thread moving crap, nothing frustrates me more. Go figure the SPORTS section is the WRONG forum for a topic (and pictures) on SOCCER

[PhotosGuy]

god I can't stand this thread moving crap, nothing frustrates me more. Go figure the SPORTS section is the WRONG forum for a topic (and pictures) on SOCCER (Re)read the posting rules. IF you had posted problem images, I could have left it there. Threads without images go to the 'Sharing Knowhow' section, or whatever seems most appropriate.
And, nothing frustrates us more than people complaining about the rules that they have broken? ;)

[adblink]

I have no problem following rules, I just have a problem comprehending rules that make no sense whats so ever and actually make the experience worse for everything one. I fail to see how cramming everything into one forum is beneficial, instead of keeping it into the forum that the topic is actually about!

also notice the replies from the spots photogs have stopped coming.

Now that there is images shared in my thread, could you please move it back to the sport forum as it now coincides with the rules.

[Mum2J&M]

Just curious about shooting sports vertical - wouldn't that be extremely challenging in itself? I mean, how can you get what you want in the image with that much restriction of frame? These people are constantly moving. I understand the point about filling the frame, which helps with focus, etc., but isn't this incredibly difficult?

[AdamC]

Just curious about shooting sports vertical - wouldn't that be extremely challenging in itself? I mean, how can you get what you want in the image with that much restriction of frame? These people are constantly moving. I understand the point about filling the frame, which helps with focus, etc., but isn't this incredibly difficult?


In my experience, it's not really any harder. Well maybe a little, because you're shooting tighter and so need to be better at panning etc., but it's no biggy. Certainly worth the effort when you realise you're cropping all your landscape pictures to portrait and throwing away half your pixels. :)

[Mum2J&M]

I could see how that would become a concern. Guess it just takes some practice to break old habits.

[JohnJ80]

A grip really helps too since you are not holding the camera at an awkward angle (grip has dual set of controls - one for landscape and one for portrait).

J

[Mum2J&M]

A grip really helps too since you are not holding the camera at an awkward angle (grip has dual set of controls - one for landscape and one for portrait).

J

Yep, so I have read.

[Souwalker]

In my experience, it's not really any harder. Well maybe a little, because you're shooting tighter and so need to be better at panning etc., but it's no biggy. Certainly worth the effort when you realise you're cropping all your landscape pictures to portrait and throwing away half your pixels. :)

Agree.
I followed someone's tip from this forum last year and used vertical for my shots of my daughters netball game. Took awhile but the results had so much more impact.
pat

[Fabrian]

It has been mentioned that there's no sense in using the * button for focus. I completely disagree with this. I'm not familiar with the XTi's button functions, but assuming you can use the * button like a 30 or 40d - the biggest reason to use it is (especially) when in servo and tracking, pressing the shutter button halfway takes exposure at that moment. If you just use the shutter button and track a person running for 3 or 4 seconds, the camera will expose from the time you half pressed.

One other thing to mention. This isn't such a big deal since soccer doesn't use helmets, but if it's not too sunny or if it's overcast, bump your exposure up 1/3 or 2/3's of a stop. You might blow out a bit on the whites, but it brings the face out since there's usually a lot of shadow in the eyes etc( getting the shot with the sun behind you and it lighting up a players face doesn't always happen), and that's what most people want to see anyway - especially if it's their kid. This is pretty much necessary for soft/basball, football, lacrosse, etc.

[AdamC]

It has been mentioned that there's no sense in using the * button for focus. I completely disagree with this. I'm not familiar with the XTi's button functions, but assuming you can use the * button like a 30 or 40d - the biggest reason to use it is (especially) when in servo and tracking, pressing the shutter button halfway takes exposure at that moment. If you just use the shutter button and track a person running for 3 or 4 seconds, the camera will expose from the time you half pressed.


I'd certainly agree with this - I always use * to focus, for the reasons you specify. Granted I never got caught out with a bad exposure from not using it either, so I guess it can come down to personal preference as previously stated. My personal preference is to use it, because I can see a reason to, and can't see any reason not to.

[adblink]

well i used it for my third game as people recommended. It wasn't harder by any means. We'll see if I stick with it

a grip is a definite must for these vertical shots. I would never attempt to do a whole game like that without one

[eigga]

What focus point are you using?

I almost always shoot vertical with single focus point . Center, one above center, or two above center depending on the age of the players.

[JohnJ80]

In my experience, it's not really any harder. Well maybe a little, because you're shooting tighter and so need to be better at panning etc., but it's no biggy. Certainly worth the effort when you realise you're cropping all your landscape pictures to portrait and throwing away half your pixels. :)

Try shooting 300-500 shots per game for 90 minute games, two games in a row shooting soccer without the grip. You will feel like your wrist is going to break.

J.

[In2Photos]

well i used it for my third game as people recommended. It wasn't harder by any means. We'll see if I stick with it

a grip is a definite must for these vertical shots. I would never attempt to do a whole game like that without one
The grip is more important than the monopod. I rarely shoot landscape when shooting sports and without the grip I would hate shooting.

[In2Photos]

In all honesty you've gotten some good advice here but you are using a lens that is not really mean't for sports per se. The 2.8 is the lens to have. The f4 with the TC will only use the center AF sensor and that will be very very slow.



While the 2.8 version may be better there certainly is no reason that you can not use the f/4 version. But you need to familiarize yourself with how the f/4 handles shots. For youth sports I shoot almost solely from one side of the goal behind the goal line and limit my shots primarily to mid field and closer. This helps to eliminate some background distractions if there are any.

The f/4 isn't that bad. But, I would love to shoot some better action. I only get the younger coed leagues right now. :(

http://www.mdsportsphoto.com/photos/221633358_buYFW-L-1.jpg

[Fabrian]

The grip is more important than the monopod.

IMO you need both, especially if you're shooting more than one game.

[JohnJ80]

IMO you need both, especially if you're shooting more than one game.

I agree 100%.

J.

[In2Photos]

IMO you need both, especially if you're shooting more than one game.
Yes, but the grip first, not the monopod. Two games is doable handheld, but yes I would prefer a monopod for multiple games, even with the 70-200 f/4. I haven't used the monopod for sports in some time though. The grip has yet to leave the camera. ;)

[AdamC]

Yes, but the grip first, not the monopod. Two games is doable handheld, but yes I would prefer a monopod for multiple games, even with the 70-200 f/4. I haven't used the monopod for sports in some time though. The grip has yet to leave the camera. ;)


I'd agree with that. I shot a few games vertically without a grip before I bought one, and it was a real pain in the wrist. Wouldn't be without it now, even for non-soccer stuff. Hasn't been off the camera since I got it. I'm yet to invest in a monopod.