Low light tips

[jads]

Appologies if this have been done to death, but am interested in peoples tips, or comments for getting the most out of low-light situations, i.e. very overcast days. I'm travelling to Europe in winter and the chances of seeing much sun are few and far between.

Do people use white balance bracketing, standard bracketing, or just play with ISO settings and shoot with 800, for example?

thanks in advance.... :)


I have the 300D with standard 18-55 lense...

[Scottes]

WB bracketing won't do any good, exposure bracketing may do some good. The best thing you can do is learn how to hold the camera very steady, and practice that. Lean the camera against something, like a wall or a pole. Lean yourself against something. Kneel, and rest an arm on a knee. Contort your body until you've got as much of your body supported by the rest of your body. That is, tuck you chin against your chest, tuck your elbows in and wrap your arms across your chest, and so on and on. Techniques for rifle shooting work extremely well.

With practice you'll be able to hold the camera very steady. Then set to Tv to set the appropriate shutter speed, adjust ISO to get sufficient aperture for desired Depth of Field, and shoot.

And shoot in RAW, which will allow you to fix underexposed images.

[Wrench]

I have a similar question. The above tips are good, but how about low light conditions with moving subjects? I'm trying to capture my buddies' band in action but the settings are usually dark ( in bars ) with colored spotlights. Using a flash helps, but you lose the effect.

[Scottes]

Alas, action and low-light don't play well together. Depending on the action though - as race cars and runners and byciclists can usually be panned with good effect. But players in a night club... high ISO and probably some noise-reduction software.

But other here have also employed some tricks, like bribing the lighting guy to put out some brighter lights. Or timing and waiting for the action to stop just for a brief moment. If it's your buddie's band then work with them and get them to pause for some "Kodak moments."

Large apertures will also do the trick, or at least reduce the need for higher ISO settings. The 50mm f/1.4 or the 85mm f/1.2 make for some very nice low-light lenses because of their large apertures.

But they cost a little more than noise reduction software. :-)

[Big_B]

I'd agree with that, but also add that the flash may still be effective. If you use only a little flash(plus a difuser if you have one), it can help to freeze the action without completly trashing the mood of the picture.

[neutral]

I have a similar question. The above tips are good, but how about low light conditions with moving subjects? I'm trying to capture my buddies' band in action but the settings are usually dark ( in bars ) with colored spotlights. Using a flash helps, but you lose the effect.
Pick up a 50mm 1.8 lens. They go for under $100.

http://inevitabletruth.org/upload/imgs/IMG_0984_Large.jpg


although the shot might not be that great, it is taken in the same type of situation.

[neutral]

I'd agree with that, but also add that the flash may still be effective. If you use only a little flash(plus a difuser if you have one), it can help to freeze the action without completly trashing the mood of the picture.
I've never been allowed to use a flash in a venue....

[PineCone]

i'm going to experiment with the exposure bracketing.. thanks for the tip

[denMAR]

WB bracketing won't do any good, exposure bracketing may do some good. The best thing you can do is learn how to hold the camera very steady, and practice that. Lean the camera against something, like a wall or a pole. Lean yourself against something. Kneel, and rest an arm on a knee. Contort your body until you've got as much of your body supported by the rest of your body. That is, tuck you chin against your chest, tuck your elbows in and wrap your arms across your chest, and so on and on. Techniques for rifle shooting work extremely well.

With practice you'll be able to hold the camera very steady. Then set to Tv to set the appropriate shutter speed, adjust ISO to get sufficient aperture for desired Depth of Field, and shoot.

And shoot in RAW, which will allow you to fix underexposed images.

This pretty much sums it up. You can go lower and lower with time. I can get away with 1/6 sometimes.

[PhotosGuy]

Concert Photography, Part I
http://www.photo.net/learn/concerts/mirarchi/concer_1.htm

Taking photos in a bar, 1st paid shoot
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?p=1184139

Camera policies at concerts
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=163063