Can I mix Continuous Lighting w/Flash?

[CompassPortraits]

Hello Everyone,

Well I'm still trying to get my studio lighting figured out....

I recently purchased a photo basics continuous lighting set (main, fill and background) and if I use it alone (no ambient light) I have trouble getting the shutter speed anywhere near 1/100th at f5.6, even when I bump up the ISO to 800.

I'm going to be shooting at party on Saturday night that will have a backdrop similar to dances. I'm concerned that I'm not going to be able to light a bunch of rowdy graduating seniors without either going up to ISO 1600 or adding more light somehow. Could I add an off camera flash (430ex) as a kicker light? Would this help freeze the action even at slower shutter speeds. I definitely plan on using my tripod, but I'm still worried I'll get nothing but blur especially when I need the higher fstops for the big groups.

I'm also going to be doing some candids in between the semi-formal shots and I plan on using my on camera flash (with homemade bounce card), setting my camera on manual (f4-f8, 1/100th ISO400) and then letting my ETTL do the work. I can also adjust the FEC as needed. Does this sound like a feasible plan?

Thanks so much for your help and taking the time to comment!

[René Damkot]

It's certainly possible to use the flash as fill. You'd want to gel the flash to match the color temperature of the hot lights however.
If you use the hot lights as main (or have them contribute any significant amount) motion blur will still be a problem however.

I'd use ISO 800. 1/100s f/5.6 is do-able.

[FlashZebra]

The amount of light the continuous lights will provide to the exposure (compared to the 430EX) will be pathetic.

Your 430EX alone will provide far more light.

Enjoy! Lon

[jcolman]

I'll add to the above comments. The continuous lights will also be an annoyance to the dancers.

Stick with flash. If you want to get creative, drag your shutter (try .5 seconds) This will pick up the background ambient light and blur it as well while the strobe freezes the action.

[CompassPortraits]

I'll only be using the continous lights for the semi-formal shots, kinda like at a prom where the kids come over to the decorated, backdrop area. This spot is set up away from the rest of the party, so there shouldn't be too much bother to the rest of the party. I'll use the on camera flash for the candids and the rest of the party shots.

Would I be better off using my flash on an umbrella for the main and then use my continuous lights for fill for the semi-formal shots? I'd just grab the flash off of the stand when I want to use it for candids. If I need to gel it to match the continuous lights is there a DIY method for this? I'm a long way from a camera store, but do they sell something specifically for this?

[CompassPortraits]

Okay I just finished up a photo shoot with the continuous lights and it was ROUGH!

At ISO 800 I barely got over 1/40th at f5.6, so I have a bunch of blurry shots!!! I'm completely flustered now and ready to kick the lights down the street. I was used to using one strobe and my off camera flash, shooting in manual and letting the strobes make up the difference. Not that I got any kind of consistent results that way either. I'm not set up to meter the strobes, so I spent a lot of time fumbling around.

Now I'm completely sick about shooting this party on Saturday night. What am I going to do to pull off group shots??? Can I go all the way to ISO1600 and expect good results? Should I use my off camera flash as the main and my continuous lights for fill? My other strobe is out since I only have one small softbox, not enough for groups.

Any ideas or tips would be greatly appreciated! I'm feeling like I'm in over my head now, so I could use a little pep talk.

[jcolman]

Your 250w lights aren't nearly powerful enough for this kind of work. Why not rent another strobe, or better yet, rent two monolights and umbrellas. Your local camera shop may rent gear.

If renting is out of the question, your best bet would be to take plenty of spare batteries and use your single strobe bounced off of an umbrella directly above your camera.

[CompassPortraits]

I'm using two 500watt bulbs with umbrellas, plus a 100watt background light. Still not enough??!!

The kit I purchased outlines placement of the lights and I'm wondering about moving them closer? I struggled with this alot with the strobes too though? How close should they be to the subject?

I don't have the option of renting anything unfortunately....... I certainly don't want to cancel, so I need to know how I can pull it off with the equipment that I've got now. Before I have an aneurysm...... LOL!

[CompassPortraits]

What's a monolight? I'm not familiar with that term.....

Thanks a bunch for your help!

[dave sparks]

Hi compass. I believe there is a way but it has been way to long for me. Many moons ago a friend was teaching me photography and he mixed tungsten and flash a lot. Especially at receptions and the like.
If I remember right he let the tungsten go about 2/3 of a stop more than the flash for a combined exposure. Somehow the flash "froze" who he was shooting and the tungsten warmed everything up a bit. The ladies loved it because they all looked tan.
I hope that someone will chime in and help out but I believe he set the shutter for the flash and the aperture for the tungsten. Combined it did look good and did have to over expose a little. Wish I paid more attention to it. Miht have to experiment.
Hope I may have helped and not made it worse.
Sparky

[CompassPortraits]

I love the idea Dave! That's what I was looking for....

I hope some others can contribute their thoughts on your methods.

More than anything else, I think I just may not know how to set the camera for these lights. Mostly I need to slow down and think about it! I have a tendency to get frustrated and start poking buttons.

Thanks a whole bunch and keep 'em coming folks!

[dave sparks]

You're welcome Dina
I too hope someone else who knows more than me chimes in. I've been away from photography for way to long and am still re-relearning everything. Good luck.
Sparky

[CompassPortraits]

Okay now I'm starting to wonder if I would be a lot better off going back to my strobe, since it might not be as small as I think.

I have a 24"x32" softbox on a White Lightning Ultra1800 strobe and then I have my 430ex flash that I can use off camera. My problem is I don't have the right kind of light meter. Mine is an old guy that you point at the subject, not the light source. Don't I need the other kind to make this work?

When I've used them in the past I was just winging it by looking at my histogram and exposure etc. Working with the groups, I'm not sure I can make it happen since I just don't know enough yet......

[dave sparks]

Hi Dina
You could take a meter reading from your hand should get you in the neighborhood. I'm new here and don't know how to post a link but Photoflex has an online school and one of their free lessons talks about how to set up flashes without a meter. Try and google them and see if that helps.
Sparky

[tmonatr]

If it was me, I would go to a camera store and buy an umbrella for your WLU 1800. At least 40", bigger if you have the room. I don't think a 24" x 32" softbox will provide enough coverage for group photos. While you are at the camera store, pick up a grey card(very cheap). You can use the grey card to set the proper exposure and also to set a custom WB. With the camera in manual, and using your chosen settings ( ex ISO 100, F10, 1/160), place the grey card where your subjects will be, fill the frame with the card and take your shot. Adjust the power level on your strobe until the histogram spike is in the middle. Then use the the properly exposed grey card image to set as your custom white balance.

[CompassPortraits]

Thanks so much tmonatr!

I have a 43" silver umbrella that I could use instead of the softbox! I also have another umbrella a bit smaller that I could use for the off camera flash.

I use the grey card a lot, so I'm good to go there too. I can take a few test shots before I actually start to get my exposure right.

If I set up for f10 and a decent shutter speed, will that work for large groups as well. In other words, if I have to move back am I going to have to readjust the lights or my fstop?