Firing A Shoe Mount Flash In To A Standard Speed Ring: Solutions?

[TMR Design]

Well, after looking at just about every item available for light stands, flash mounts, umbrella brackets, arms, clamps, etc. I'm not finding a good solution or anything that inspires a DIY for what I want.

I already have a bracket and speed ring that lets me mount and fire a shoe mount Speedlight into a 24" x 32" softbox. This works great but is limiting. The speed ring is plastic and does not give the correct support for a 36" x 48" box and the ring will only accommodate a softbox but not an octabox.

I'd like to be able to take the heavy duty aluminum Photoflex speed ring I have with the 3/8" threaded mounting holes, attach a softbox/octabox and then mount it to a swivel bracket so the weight is carried by the aluminum speed ring, and then have the cold shoe set up on a bracket of some sort that I can adjust for the correct height and position of the flash in the speed ring.

Does anyone know of hardware or a clever way to do this so I can fire a shoe mount Speedlight in to any shape or size modifier?

[TMR Design]

30 views, no comments or suggestions. Me thinks this is going to turn in to a DIY.

[Curtis N]

I know Lotto has done this sort of thing and has posted some shots. Hopefully you can get some ideas from him.

[TMR Design]

Thanks Curtis. I'll take a look around for those threads.

[TMR Design]

Found it.

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=444190

[TMR Design]

I wish there were components to just do this easily without machining something. Hmm. Back to the B&H site.

[wilvoeka]

Westcott sells one, but its $249.00.

Heres the link.

http://www.fjwestcott.com/details.cfm?id=30&tbl=accessories#

[troymm]

did you see this thread. I posted a pic of what I use on #7

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?p=5328784#post5328784

[Lotto]

Come on now, Robert. I know you can bend a simple L bracket :) For the 36x48 SB, I think the speedlight has to be mounted side way when the box is in vertical position. Even then, it hard to diffuse the hot spot at the center.

[TMR Design]

I've seen the Westcott bracket and there's no way I would buy that. I also find that design to be a bit silly with the Pocket Wizard mounted directly behind the flash. In that configuration the controls and LCD display are partially blocked and it makes it awkward to see or adjust.

I can certainly bend a piece of metal and drill some holes. I was just hoping that I didn't have to do that and could find something that is full adjustable.

[TMR Design]

it hard to diffuse the hot spot at the center.

Have you compared a white interior to a silver one? I'd be curious to see if the silver was slightly more even.

I've also been playing around with different materials (reflective and translucent) to use in the center of the box to more evenly distribute the light and eliminate the center hot spot.

[hawk911]

would this help?

http://www.lastolite.com/ezybox-hotshoe-kits.php

[TMR Design]

Hi Hawk,

It would be great if I was using Ezyboxes :D

The problem with many of those kits is that there is a plastic speedring and will accept 4 rods or a 4 sided modifier and not an 8 sided octabox. Also, all the components are light and made of light weight materials. If you try to add more weight using a larger modifier than they show or recommend then you're asking for trouble because they do not support the weight properly and are destined to fail or cause a problem.

This is what led me back around to using the heavier Photoflex aluminum ring with the threaded mounting holes. You can mount any size modifier to the speed ring and mount it to a light stand, boom, swivel mount, etc. and there's great stability.

[hawk911]

gotcha. so let us know when you are done on the fab wheel so we can buy your masterpiece.

[TMR Design]

I was in DIY mode today and came up with something simple, functional and relatively easy to fabricate.

I have the aluminum cold shoe's coming tomorrow to replace the scrappy parts I used to prototype my bracket. Once I complete assembly and paint it I'll show some images.

I was going to make it to accommodate a flash with the head rotated vertically but I'll save that for another version if I find I need it.

My primary reason for wanting this bracket/adapter was to be able to use a Speedlight inside an octabox. I'm currently able to fire in to a 24" x 32" softbox and although I have not taken critical measurements I find the light to be fairly even. I know that in an octabox I won't get completely even light but that's ok. I'm willing to accept and work with that in order to have round catch lights when I work outside. To me, it doesn't make sense to be shooting outside during the day and have square catch lights. In the studio I'm fine with it.

Anyway, the bracket I made took a different approach than most. There is no need to attach any hardware to the actual speed ring. I'm taking advantage of the umbrella mounting hole.

What I did was simple. I'm using a 1/2" aluminum rod inserted in to the umbrella mounting hole, with a dimple placed so that when you tighten the thrumbscrew it locks the rod in place so it can't spin or rotate.

I flattened a portion of the rod and mounted a strip of aluminum to it with a cold shoe mounted for the flash, and a second cold shoe a few inches behind it for a Pocket Wizard. Initially I thought that having the PW behind it would block the controls and display but that's not the case. I can still see and operate the controls with no problem.

Once I have pictures this will all make sense but it's quite simple, strong, effective an much better than a single bracket that holds and suspends the flash, speed ring and modifier, and this is also much better than the flimsy flash bracket kits currently being sold.

My design includes the use of a Bogen 2905 umbrella swivel bracket. I haven't tested it with other brackets so the height and position may change. No guarantees of any kind other than with the Bogen bracket.

I'll have images tomorrow.

[tetrode]

Here's my solution, Robert: Of course, I have the advantage of having a Lastolite EZYbox Hotshoe on hand. The Lastolite mounting hardware has been pressed into service on more than a few occasions.

In any case, here's what we start with, the Lastolite hotshoe flash mount:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3128/2571726474_8f3786c571_o.jpg

We don't need the ring part of this assemblage since we'll be mounting the business end to a "real" speedring in a moment. Here's the part we'll be using:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3178/2571726504_48a5e08477_o.jpg

To mount this hotshoe flash bracket to my Amvona speedring, I carefully drilled and tapped a 1/4-20 hole into one of the webs on the ring:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3049/2570900323_87f15187d0_o.jpg

Placement of the hole is actually *very* critical because we want the two tiny registration pins on the Lastolite bracket to just peer over the Amvona casting. The pins prevent the bracket from swinging to and fro. Here's the assembled ring and bracket. You can see the two registration pins:



http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3265/2570900265_2b19b6e8b5_o.jpg

The finished product in all its glory:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3108/2570900247_b30a865499_o.jpg

And with an ancient Vivitar 283 on board:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3274/2570900221_19b4182d28_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3014/2570900233_b017a3b6b4_o.jpg

So, in my case, one really well-placed hole was all that was required to allow mating a shoe-mount flash to the full-sized, metal speedring that came with my Amvona softbox.

Dave F.

[TMR Design]

Looks good Dave. Nice mod. Mine is different and you'll see it tomorrow.

Regarding the hot spot... ALL GONE!!!

I've done this type of experiment before so I sort of guessed a little and my first guess worked perfectly. I'm firing the flash in standard landscape orientation in to a 36" x 48" softbox in it's standard vertical orientation and have perfectly even light from center to edge, long or short.

The softbox I'm using is a Photoflex 36" x 48" LiteDome Q39 with the internal baffle and front diffusion panel in place. I took a piece of aluminum foil that was about 50% the size of the internal baffle and taped it to the baffle with the shiny side facing the flash head.
It works just like a beauty dish by reflecting the light directed forward at the center towards the back and sides which further diffuses the light and reduces the hot spot.

Now when I take a reading I get no more than 1/10 stop difference between the center and edge. Very simple. :D

[tetrode]

Looks good Dave. Nice mod. Mine is different and you'll see it tomorrow.


I'm *really* looking forward to seeing what you've come up with, Robert. Your description has me scratching my head.

Regarding your softbox mod: You should give some thought to marketing adhesive backed 8x10 pieces of aluminum foil. Give 'em a catchy name like "Softblox" and charge $29.95 each.

Dave F.

[Mike V]

Chimera sell them.


for example:

http://www.adorama.com/CMSRCHS.html

[TMR Design]

Nope. People keep suggesting plastic speedrings and shoe mount flash kits that are flimsy.

The concept, as stated in the original post is to use an aluminum speed ring to accommodate larger modifiers of different shapes.

I already have and use one of those lightweight plastic rings and brackets.

[FlashZebra]

Nope. People keep suggesting plastic speedrings and shoe mount flash kits that are flimsy.

The concept, as stated in the original post is to use an aluminum speed ring to accommodate larger modifiers of different shapes.

I already have and use one of those lightweight plastic rings and brackets.
I have older Photoflex and Chimera speedrings that are heavy plastic that I use on larger softboxes. They look to be some sort of filled plastic.

They are rugged and work fine.

I have looked at them carefully and except for the "Photoflex" and "Chimera" markings appear to be identical. Possibly a third party was making them for both concerns.

Often it is not just the material used, but the overall execution that matters. I have some newer metal speedrings here that are not nearly the quality of these discussed plastic rings.

Enjoy! Lon

[TMR Design]

Hi Lon,

I'm speaking from my own experience with the Photoflex plastic ring. It's fairly strong for what it is but once I attach my larger softbox to it you can immediately see that the weight and stress is not evenly distributed to the 4 rods. The weight is pulling down hard on the top 2 and the shape of the box becomes distorted.

For my tastes, all the aluminum brackets including the Photoflex is made of lightweight materials and the fittings are not what I want in a piece of hardware like that.

The other point that I think you're overlooking is that my intent is primarily to be able to fire a shoe mount flash in an octabox and all the flash bracket kits come with a square plastic speed ring that has 4 holes for the rods.. one in each corner. There is no provision for the extra 4 rods in an octabox.

That is what led me to the Photoflex or compatible speed rings. They have the threaded mounting holes in a few places on the outer perimeter of the ring which allows the speed ring to take the weight of the modifier, not the flash bracket. They are also octa-rings.

With the bracket I've made it also separates the flash/bracket/pocket wizard assembly from the speed ring and modifier and that makes the whole thing easier to work with and easier to swap out flash for a strobe without taking the modifier off the stand, and allows you to just as easily swap the modifier for another without removing the bracket and reattaching anything.

As usual with custom DIY's, my solution may not be the best for everyone but it is the perfect solution for my needs and the way my brain works.

The bracket is being painted now and UPS should be delivering the aluminum cold shoe's in a few hours.

I'll show my little doo-dad of a bracket later this afternoon or early evening.

[TMR Design]

Ok guys, here it is.

I didn't do this as a DIY with documented materials, dimensions and procedure.

Later this evening I'll post some pictures with the bracket mounted with a flash and Pocket Wizard. The round rod at the end is inserted in the hole for the umbrella in the Bogen umbrella bracket, and there's a dimple that the thumb screw sets inside so that the bracket can't turn or flip over.

Here's the stealthy product shot.

[FlashZebra]

The round rod at the end is inserted in the hole for the umbrella
This is the same approach I use. Put the flash on a small fixture that fits into the umbrella hole.

I then attach the speedring directly on top of the umbrella adapter.

Enjoy! Lon

[Philco]

This might be a useful link for others trying to solve this problem...not the cheapest option, but they make quality stuff:

http://www.idcphotography.com/kart/index.php?p=catalog&parent=24&pg=1

Cheers

[TMR Design]

This might be a useful link for others trying to solve this problem...not the cheapest option, but they make quality stuff:

http://www.idcphotography.com/kart/index.php?p=catalog&parent=24&pg=1

Cheers

Far from the cheapest solution.

[wilvoeka]

I have to ask Robert,

White or Silver interior, and what kind of Aperatures are you getting out of it with a speedlite(Im assuming the SB-800)?

[Lotto]

This is the same approach I use. Put the flash on a small fixture that fits into the umbrella hole.

I then attach the speedring directly on top of the umbrella adapter.

Enjoy! Lon


I could see a little problem of the SB can not be tilted downward far enough with that setup though.

[TMR Design]

I have to ask Robert,

White or Silver interior, and what kind of Aperatures are you getting out of it with a speedlite(Im assuming the SB-800)?

Any box with any interior I choose.

[TMR Design]

I could see a little problem of the SB can not be tilted downward far enough with that setup though.

Not so Lotto. It angles just fine and as I have posted in the past, when mounting the speed ring to the stand I also use a short arm or boom to allow for those angles.

I did my homework on this one. It may not work for you but it accomplishes exactly what I want and do it superbly wit no limitations.

[Lotto]

Ah, boom arm, good idea. Anyway Robert, you have the Vagabond, why still mess around with the speedlight? I mean if you are going to carry the light stands, boom arm, and large SB to location, why not just use the strobes?

[TMR Design]

Ah, boom arm, good idea.

Yes, the boom arm. But it's not required unless you really need a hard angle and with smaller modifiers it's a complete non-issue.

Anyway Robert, you have the Vagabond, why still mess around with the speedlight? I mean if you are going to carry the light stands, boom arm, and large SB to location, why not just use the strobes?

The answer is simple. One thing I've learned is that you need to expect the unexpected and be prepared. Should the V2 or one of the Elinchrom's fail then I'm screwed. I'd much prefer to switch over to Speedlight's than to have to cancel, reschedule or go rent replacement gear. It's much different when you're shooting in your living room or in the backyard.

A few weeks ago I had a shoot and at the end we decided to quickly go down to a floating dock to get some shots with a sunset in the background. The dock was small, narrow, moving from the water and we were losing light by the minute. There wasn't enough room to have the full kit down there and it would have taken more time to move the gear and setup, perhaps missing the shots.

Another example would be a location where the cart simply can't make its way over the terrain and I don't have an assistant to help me carry the gear (I actually need 2 extra people if I don't have the cart) then I have no choice but to move with the lighter kit.
The lighter kit uses 7.5' Norman light stands that are lighter and smaller than the others, which are between 9.5 and 13 ft., and much heavier.

If I were shooting an event with flash and at the last minute I was asked to do some quick portraits, again, the speedlight and softbox will do an excellent job and won't require another additional setup and gear. I can also add a second flash and do some great portraits on the fly using Nikon's CLS to nail exposures and balance between main and fill.

When you're talking about a full blown kit it's not as easy as you might think and it's not that I could be using my strobes and chose the Speedlight's. Generally speaking, if I can use the strobes I will but it doesn't always work out that way. I use the best and most appropriate tools for the job.

The point is simply that I like to know that I can pull off a job with a portable, lighter kit and still be able to do it well and deliver great product. To rely solely on the V2 and studio strobes doesn't seem like the smartest or most practical idea.

[TMR Design]

Here's a quick snap of the bracket in use with a Photoflex 36" x 42" Q39 softbox. I have it angled down as far as it will go without pushing against the riser of the light stand. Other than hair light's I can't think of a time that I've needed a harder angle than that, so it's the rare occasion that I would need a boom or arm to extend it away from the riser.

[tetrode]

Here's a quick snap of the bracket in use with a Photoflex 36" x 42" Q39 softbox. I have it angled down as far as it will go without pushing against the riser of the light stand. Other than hair light's I can't think of a time that I've needed a harder angle than that, so it's the rare occasion that I would need a boom or arm to extend it away from the riser.

That's a very elegant and well-executed solution, Robert. I wonder if Photoflex is the only manufacturer's whose speedrings have the required 1/4-20 hole on the edge.

I think I'll try drilling and tapping a similar hole in my Amvona ring tonight (gulp!).

What are you using as a riser between the Bogen 2905's socket and the Photoflex ring? Since the height of the ring relative to the Bogen is fixed, I would imaging the length of the riser has to be computed such that the shoe mount flash is centered in the ring when mounted.

Dave F.

[TMR Design]

That's a very elegant and well-executed solution, Robert. I wonder if Photoflex is the only manufacturer's whose speedrings have the required 1/4-20 hole on the edge.

I think I'll try drilling and tapping a similar hole in my Amvona ring tonight (gulp!).

What are you using as a riser between the Bogen 2905's socket and the Photoflex ring? Since the height of the ring relative to the Bogen is fixed, I would imaging the length of the riser has to be computed such that the shoe mount flash is centered in the ring when mounted.

Dave F.

Hey Dave,

Thanks man. I know there are other speed rings with the threaded mounting holes. I just don't know which they are. :D

I'll take some closeups of the hardware fittings but I'm not using a riser. I'm mounting the speed ring directly to the 3/8" threads on one side of the 2905's provided spigots.

I did check the bracket on a generic $15 Impact umbrella bracket and it centered the flash just fine. My guess is that give or take some small differences, this will work with almost any umbrella bracket. I don't think there is a standard but the angle and distance from the top of the bracket does seem to be coincidentally indentical.

[m3rdpwr]

On the link you posted, I posted some pic's of what I bought.

It comes with a small softbox, speedring and brackets.

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=444190&page=4

I have been able to use the Speedring to fit my Photoflex Medium Multidome Softbox. It's not an exact fit, but it is secure.

If you want to see a pic with the Photoflex Softbox with the Morris Speedring that comes with it, let me know and I'll post it...

-Mario

[tetrode]

I'm mounting the speed ring directly to the 3/8" threads on one side of the 2905's provided spigots.

Ahh, so the Photoflex ring is tapped for a 3/8" rather than a 1/4" bolt? Hmmm, I think I may have a 3/8" tap on hand somewhere.

One thing does trouble me a bit about your mounting arrangement, Robert: What prevents the Photoflex ring/softbox assembly from unscrewing itself from the Bogen spigot? It would appear that you're relying strictly on the tightness of the spigot to keep the softbox firmly in place.

Dave F.

[TMR Design]

Ahh, so the Photoflex ring is tapped for a 3/8" rather than a 1/4" bolt? Hmmm, I think I may have a 3/8" tap on hand somewhere.

One thing does trouble me a bit about your mounting arrangement, Robert: What prevents the Photoflex ring/softbox assembly from unscrewing itself from the Bogen spigot? It would appear that you're relying strictly on the tightness of the spigot to keep the softbox firmly in place.

Dave F.

The Photoflex speedring has three 3/8" threaded holes and one 1/4"-20. Since mounting a box to a light stand by way of the speed ring means that the box no longer rotates, it's best to choose the 3/8" hole on either top or bottom, allowing the softbox to be vertically oriented. The placement of the 1/4"-20 hole is in a strange place and makes no sense for a softbox but if you were using an octabox and wanted or needed to use the 1/4"-20 it's there.

Ahhh, no need to be troubled Dave. Were it not for the 3/8" lockwasher in between the speed ring and the spigot you'd be absolutely right, and it would untighten very easily. With the lockwasher on (and tightened with a wrench, not hand tightened) this thing isn't budging. Believe me, I tried :D

I've designated that spigot as a permanent part of the speed ring. I also mount my D-Lite's this way, using the Bogen 2905 mounted speed ring to get rid of the stress on the cheap swivel mount, so every instance of using the box needs the spigot, or... if I didn't want to use it that way or had someone else's spigot to mount to then I can flip the box upside down and use the other 3/8" or the 1/4"-20 mounting hole.

[FlashZebra]

The Photoflex speedring has three 3/8" threaded holes and one 1/4"-20. Since mounting a box to a light stand by way of the speed ring means that the box no longer rotates, it's best to choose the 3/8" hole on either top or bottom, allowing the softbox to be vertically oriented. The placement of the 1/4"-20 hole is in a strange place and makes no sense for a softbox but if you were using an octabox and wanted or needed to use the 1/4"-20 it's there.

Ahhh, no need to be troubled Dave. Were it not for the 3/8" lockwasher in between the speed ring and the spigot you'd be absolutely right, and it would untighten very easily. With the lockwasher on (and tightened with a wrench, not hand tightened) this thing isn't budging. Believe me, I tried :D

I've designated that spigot as a permanent part of the speed ring. I also mount my D-Lite's this way, using the Bogen 2905 mounted speed ring to get rid of the stress on the cheap swivel mount, so every instance of using the box needs the spigot, or... if I didn't want to use it that way or had someone else's spigot to mount to then I can flip the box upside down and use the other 3/8" or the 1/4"-20 mounting hole.
A couple of suggestions.

#1
I would use a spigot that is full length. In other words, does not have that 1/4" stud on the bottom. This would give a more secure fitting in the umbrella adapter hole.

#2
If you are not going to use a through bolt in compression (just more secure that a threaded stud screwed into a tapped hole into the speedring) and intend to leave the spigot on the speedring, I would epoxy the threads.

The moment arm that you will have with the size of that softbox is huge, so even tightening with a wrench is likely to be insufficient to keep the stud from being loosened in use.

Cutting off that 1/4" stud, and drilling out the spigot you have, then fitting a 3/8"-16 socket headed cap screw through the entire spigot might also be a nice approach. The socket heads cap screw's head is likely to be about the right thickness and diameter.

Enjoy! Lon

[TMR Design]

2 more shots.

[wilvoeka]

I still would like to know what kind of aperature you can get with that set up.

[TMR Design]

Sure Jim.

With a 36" x 48" softbox placed 4 feet from the subject, shooting 1/125s, ISO 100, I get f/8 at full power. Normally I shoot at ISO 200 and get another stop out of it should I need or want it, but if I can get readings between f/4 and f/8 I'm fine with that.

If I were just shooting single subject and didn't need the modifier to be 4 feet from the subject then it would be 12 or more inches closer as well. With the smaller box the numbers go up of course, but this works very well and gives me beautiful even light in a large softbox.

I'm very satisfied :D

[TMR Design]

In my attempt to have a a lightweight Speedlight kit and a heavy duty kit with studio strobes I've concluded that other than the greater firepower of the strobe, the Speedlight can do the same job as the studio strobe beautifully. It's very important to me that I an produce the same quality images with either kit.

I shot the 2 images below at ISO 100, 1/125s, f/7.1, 4 feet from subject. One image is with the Nikon SB-800 and the other is the Elinchrom D-Lite 2. I'm firing in to the Photoflex 36" x 48" Q39 softbox with the internal baffle and outer diffusion panel installed. There is the slightest, most subtle difference and even then, in my opinion there isn't one that stands out as a better image or better lighting. Keep in mind that for the purpose of the demonstration there is only a main light at camera left and no fill source.

See if you can tell which is the flash and which is the strobe. Since there are only 2 images you have a 50/50 chance, so if you're going to guess then please tell me how you determined which is which.

I'm sorry to say that there is a slight difference in exposure so do not base your decision on the overall brightness.

[Rudi]

#1 with the Speedlight (I'll hold off on telling you until I find out whether I'm right :D).

[TMR Design]

Hey Rudi,

Care to share how you came to that conclusion?

I'll reveal the answer tomorrow after a few guesses have been made. ;)

[Rudi]

OK, the gradations of the shadows to the right of her nose are ever so slightly softer in #2, the transitions more gradual, and I suspect that might be the more even illumination coming from the bare bulb D-Lite 2 inside the softbox. Then again, it might have the opposite effect! If I had to bet a dollar... I'd bet on #1 being the Speedlight! :)

That said, there's nothing between the two, you will never see the difference in real-life shooting.

[TMR Design]

Hi Rudi,

Since no one else wants to play along, it's just you. :D

Unfortunately your guess is not correct. #2 is the Speedlight and #1 is the D-Lite.

What I neglected to mention was that when I used the Speedlight I added my hot spot reduction mod to even out the light, and your observation confirms that it did in fact even it out. Interestingly, I think it's actually more even than using a strobe without the hot spot reduction. I'll have to test tat further.

Other than a slight loss in power I'm convinced that using modifiers of this size is still relatively efficient and not a waste of power as some have intimated. Obviously, using flashes of lower power changes that so I'm only making reference to units like the Nikon SB-800, Canon 580EX (II), Quantum or other high powered flash.

[pcunite]

Other than a slight loss in power I'm convinced that using modifiers of this size is still relatively efficient and not a waste of power as some have intimated. Obviously, using flashes of lower power changes that so I'm only making reference to units like the Nikon SB-800, Canon 580EX (II), Quantum or other high powered flash.

Welcome to the club with the same conclusions!!!

[Rudi]

Like I said in my previous post, any differences would not be seen in real life - a live model would not sit perfectly still for a start! :) And I wasn't 100% sure how the light would be shaped in either case, so I took a stab at it. I'm glad I could notice the slight difference though, and since I was the only one playing, don't I at least get the "Participant" ribbon?? :D

[benjaminburrows]

thanks for all the info, TMR. here's what i came up with today for mounting my vivitar 285s with the ebay gadget infinity triggers onto stands with an amvona softbox. you can also see the AA battery modification i did to the triggers. i hope this helps someone else with their project like yours did for mine.

http://www.benjaminburrows.net/blog/images/flashbracket-1.jpg

http://www.benjaminburrows.net/blog/images/flashbracket-2.jpg

http://www.benjaminburrows.net/blog/images/flashbracket-3.jpg

http://www.benjaminburrows.net/blog/images/flashbracket-4.jpg

http://www.benjaminburrows.net/blog/images/flashbracket-5.jpg

benjamin

[TMR Design]

Hey Benjamin,

Looks like you came up with a solution that works for you as well. Nice job.

[TMR Design]

With the help of another well placed hole (in between the 2 flash shoe's) in the bracket and a low profile knob with a 1/4"-20 thread the bracket has greater functionality.

Originally I made it so it could fire a shoe mount flash in to a softbox using a standard speed ring. Since I knew I would also be firing the flash in to umbrellas it only made sense to use the same bracket.

Adding the extra hole in between the 2 flash shoe's gives me a mounting hole to attach it to a spigot and lock it in place using the Bogen 2905/026 umbrella adapter. This lets me use an umbrella with the adapter and have my flash and Pocket Wizard mounted on top.

Using this one bracket (of which I just cut the materials for a second one) I can have a flash and Pocket Wizard firing in to any form of umbrella or softbox/octabox I want and I no longer need to use the cheaper, flimsy Photoflex bracket and plastic speed ring. Those parts can now go in to the "Parts for potential DIY's" bin. :D

Here is the bracket shown mounted to the Bogen 2905 with an umbrella attached.

[hawk911]

Nice job Robert. Definitely a DIY to add to the list.