when to use high-speed sync with 430ex.....

[ed rader]

i use my 430ex both in manual and AV and in ETTL with both.

i use manual indoors and outdoors i sometimes use AV for fill flash.

when and how should i be using high-speed sync?

thanx!

ed rader

[PacAce]

HSS mode is not used very often because you lose about two stops of flash light right off the bat,making its use very inefficient compared to using the flash in its "normal" mode. But if keeping your shutter speed above the camera's max sync speed is a must while using the flash, then this can only be accomplished by using the flash in HSS mode.

[Curtis N]

My usual strategy for outdoor fill: Manual mode, set the shutter at 1/250 and adjust the aperture to dial in the ambient exposure (Tv mode with HSS turned off would be a similar method). This gives me the most efficient use of flash possible, maximizing the range, keeping recycle times short and extending battery life.

Only in situations where I specifically want to blur the background with a large aperture will I resort to HSS. I keep an eye on the flash unit's distance scale to make sure my subject is within range.

[ed rader]

HSS mode is not used very often because you lose about two stops of flash light right off the bat,making its use very inefficient compared to using the flash in its "normal" mode. But if keeping your shutter speed above the camera's max sync speed is a must while using the flash, then this can only be accomplished by using the flash in HSS mode.

thanx Leo -- i haven't been missing anything yet :D.

ed rader

[ed rader]

My usual strategy for outdoor fill: Manual mode, set the shutter at 1/250 and adjust the aperture to dial in the ambient exposure (Tv mode with HSS turned off would be a similar method). This gives me the most efficient use of flash possible, maximizing the range, keeping recycle times short and extending battery life.

Only in situations where I specifically want to blur the background with a large aperture will I resort to HSS. I keep an eye on the flash unit's distance scale to make sure my subject is within range.


i'll have to try this. i'll admit i've been using AV because it's easy and seems to work pretty well.

if you are setting the shutter to a fixed speed don't you lose control over DOF?

ed rader

[Curtis N]

if you are setting the shutter to a fixed speed don't you lose control over DOF?Essentially, yes. If you're aiming for a certain aperture then you can sometimes get there by choosing the appropriate ISO. Of course you can slow the shutter speed to get a smaller aperture, you just can't go the other direction without HSS.

Life is full of compromises. Shutter speed, aperture and ISO all have the potential to affect image quality beyond just exposure. The key is finding the best combination of the three, based on your priorities.

[Mike V]

I leave it on all the time.

It turns off automatically if you go below the camera sync speed anyway.

[ed rader]

Essentially, yes. If you're aiming for a certain aperture then you can sometimes get there by choosing the appropriate ISO. Of course you can slow the shutter speed to get a smaller aperture, you just can't go the other direction without HSS.

Life is full of compromises. Shutter speed, aperture and ISO all have the potential to affect image quality beyond just exposure. The key is finding the best combination of the three, based on your priorities.


okay i got you. what i like is your way uses less power and even in AV you have to compromise. thanx again.

ed rader

[ed rader]

Curtis -- one other question. i'm trying to understand so i can remember. why do you choose 1/250?

i take it that's a starting point....is that because the higher shutter speed consumes less power or are you trying to eliminate shake?


ed rader

[Curtis N]

I choose 1/250 because it's the X-sync speed of my camera. It's the fastest shutter speed I can use without HSS. This minimizes motion blur from ambient light and allows proper ambient exposure with the widest possible aperture.

If you own one of the Rebel models or a 5D then your X-sync speed is 1/200.

[hotrod1935]

I choose 1/250 because it's the X-sync speed of my camera. It's the fastest shutter speed I can use without HSS. This minimizes motion blur from ambient light and allows proper ambient exposure with the widest possible aperture.

If you own one of the Rebel models or a 5D then your X-sync speed is 1/200.

So your saying that for all kinds of just normal photos sync to 1/200?

[Curtis N]

So your saying that for all kinds of just normal photos sync to 1/200?It's never that simple. ;)

For fill flash in the sun, 1/250 or 1/200 (depending on the camera's X-sync speed) is where I'm going to be, for the reasons mentioned. The aperture is going to be in the f/10 - f/11 range for proper ambient exposure at ISO 100.

If it's cloudy, you'll have two to four stops less light, but usually you can keep the shutter speed up there and open the aperture and/or boost the ISO a little.

When the ambient light level is lower, such as sunrise/sunset or indoors, slowing down the shutter is certainly an option, and sometimes a necessity, if you want ambient light to contribute to the exposure. Here's an example of slowing down the shutter to improve background illumination indoors.

http://performancephoto.smugmug.com/photos/305591423_YozTF-X3.jpg

On the other hand, sometimes my goal is to eliminate the ambient light and let the flash do the work. In that case I'm back at X-sync speed.

[hotrod1935]

Thank´s for the examples! Cleared up alot of doubts i had.

[ed rader]

thanx again. that cleared a few things up for me.

ed rader

[slowdad]

It's never that simple. ;)

For fill flash in the sun, 1/250 or 1/200 (depending on the camera's X-sync speed) is where I'm going to be, for the reasons mentioned. The aperture is going to be in the f/10 - f/11 range for proper ambient exposure at ISO 100.

If it's cloudy, you'll have two to four stops less light, but usually you can keep the shutter speed up there and open the aperture and/or boost the ISO a little.

When the ambient light level is lower, such as sunrise/sunset or indoors, slowing down the shutter is certainly an option, and sometimes a necessity, if you want ambient light to contribute to the exposure. Here's an example of slowing down the shutter to improve background illumination indoors.

http://performancephoto.smugmug.com/photos/305591423_YozTF-X3.jpg

On the other hand, sometimes my goal is to eliminate the ambient light and let the flash do the work. In that case I'm back at X-sync speed.


curtis

you are the man when it comes to lights. i really pay attention to your posts and ive learned a ton. you sent me a pm about this subject a month ago. ive been using this meathod and having GRRRREAT RESULTS....thanks for helping us noobs. i shot a wedding using this technique and the indoor shots were good. everyone went home happy,,especially the photographer:cool:

[nadtz]

When is the book coming out. (step 3 = profit!)