Filters for landscape

[Vaggeli]

what is a good filter for landscape shoots..:-?

[hommedars]

Circular polarizer.

[SkipD]

What do you want a filter to do for you?

[John_B]

Vaggeli,
A good lens is better ;)
but like SkipD said: "What do you want a filter to do for you?

[tzalman]

I want a filter that will remove power lines, litter and stray tourists.

[lkb-28]

Hello vagelli;

In an attempt to be of some little help...

A good Circular Polarizer always comes in handy as does a decent set of Neutral Density Graduated filters... the square kind... as you get with Cokin or Lee. In general terms the more you pay - the better you get...

But, as above, there is a MULTITUDE of filters available for different features/functions/situations so you need to determione what it is you want to do first... But the CP and ND grads are the "usual"...

Cheers;

Lee

[Vaggeli]

Vaggeli,
A good lens is better ;)
but like SkipD said: "What do you want a filter to do for you?

Like a sky which is more than brighter and a landscape that do dark (in the shade)..is there a filter that will balance the shot?

[lkb-28]

Like a sky which is more than brighter and a landscape that do dark (in the shade)..is there a filter that will balance the shot?

See my post above - a ND grad will do that...

Lee

[THE TROOPER]

Sounds like you may need a Graduated Nutral Density filter set.I think they come in different grades that equal different stops. A cokin set up with an adaptor to attach them to your lens seems the way to go for you. These are the cheaper types though.

Hope i have helped a little.

Ian:)

[John_B]

Vaggeli,
Like others suggest either a Circular Polarizer or GND (Gradual Neutral Density) filters will help balancing a brighter sky.

[chauncey]

Hey Vagelli

I'm truly sorry that we have so many sick puppies that inhabit this forum. ;)

[hommedars]

With all due respect to the other members who have responded here, the question is not what do you want do, but how do you want to do it?

I recommended a circular polarizer because it is the only filter whose affect cannot be duplicated with multiple exposures and/or post-processing.

So the question, assuming a circular polarizer alone would not fill your needs, is "do you want the filter affect to occur before or after you capture the image. The answer may well depend on whether you shoot JPEG or RAW, and whether you are familiar with post-processing software and techniques.

It is also a matter of shooting style, some folks love using filters, while others of us much prefer the freedom and flexibility of multiple exposures and PP.

Just remember, if you choose to use filters, once you get home, you are stuck with the results whether you like it or not.

[Tapeman]

Carry a CP in your bag. Graduated ND filters can help compress the range of overall brightness. Do the rest on your computer.

[WaltA]

Not to hijack to post but wanted to maybe get input on something that was suggested earlier here - that is applying a filter in Post Processing.

I see that both in Lightroom (presets) and in Photoshop (plugins) you can simulate applying a filter to a photo - probably either RAW or JPEG. That way you can apply various filters and see what works best - a lot easier than doing it in the field.

Any input from you guys on that process?

[hommedars]

Not to hijack to post but wanted to maybe get input on something that was suggested earlier here - that is applying a filter in Post Processing...

Here is the tool I prefer:

http://www.tiffen.com/products.html?tablename=dfx

[amfoto1]

A polarizer is one of the few filters that can't be replicated very closely in Photoshop, so is probably the most important.

For landscape specifically, an ND Grad is often pretty easily used on location. Yes, you can do similar by "double processing" a RAW file later, so long as the highlights aren't blown and the shadows retained some detail.

[Double Negative]

There are three types filters that are primarily used in landscape photography:

1) Polarizer. You want a "circular" type. Often called "CPL" 'round here. This will reduce or eliminate glare and reflections from non-metallic objects. Increases contrast and saturation; makes vegetation greener, skys bluer, colors pop.

2) Neutral Density. Comes in various strengths (lighter to darker). Called "ND" 'round here. Used to slow your shutter speed down so make flowing rivers dreamy, oceans smooth and flat... Or to allow you to shoot in bright lighting with a wider aperture to minimize depth of field (DoF).

3) Graduated Neutral Density. Comes in various strengths and transition types ("soft" vs. "hard") and even available in a "reverse" graduation. Called a "GND" 'round here. Allows you to balance a bright sky with a darker foreground for a more even image that'll fit better into the limited dynamic range the camera can capture.

Color correction filters, star filters, diffusion filters, etc. are all "relatively obsolete" in the digital age, but can still be of use. But those three above are essentially indispensible and highly recommended for any serious landscape work.

[sigmonster]

Hi you probably onle ever need two A polariser and a ND graduated either used one their own or in combination.

[Vaggeli]

There are three types filters that are primarily used in landscape photography:

1) Polarizer. You want a "circular" type. Often called "CPL" 'round here. This will reduce or eliminate glare and reflections from non-metallic objects. Increases contrast and saturation; makes vegetation greener, skys bluer, colors pop.

2) Neutral Density. Comes in various strengths (lighter to darker). Called "ND" 'round here. Used to slow your shutter speed down so make flowing rivers dreamy, oceans smooth and flat... Or to allow you to shoot in bright lighting with a wider aperture to minimize depth of field (DoF).

3) Graduated Neutral Density. Comes in various strengths and transition types ("soft" vs. "hard") and even available in a "reverse" graduation. Called a "GND" 'round here. Allows you to balance a bright sky with a darker foreground for a more even image that'll fit better into the limited dynamic range the camera can capture.

Color correction filters, star filters, diffusion filters, etc. are all "relatively obsolete" in the digital age, but can still be of use. But those three above are essentially indispensible and highly recommended for any serious landscape work.

Double Negative..
thanks for the tip! now i understand a little bit more on basic 101 filters!