Film prices going up

[ironron]

In google alert, it states that film prices are going up, as well as asessories. Ie lenses, read it below.

http://www.bjp-online.com/public/showPage.html?page=800025

[Double Negative]

Canon already raised lens prices as of May 1st...

[BlowUp]

Who uses film these days anyway? Digital all the way!!!

[Double Negative]

Who uses film these days anyway? Digital all the way!!!

<ahem>

Film. Is not. Dead.

[h0rde]

<ahem>

Film. Is not. Dead.
Yes, just like Latin is not dead, because some people somewhere still know that it once existed. Right?

[Double Negative]

Yes, just like Latin is not dead, because some people somewhere still know that it once existed. Right?

I suppose... :D

Hey, now that we have digital cameras and illustration programs we don't need all those silly oil paints, pastels and charcoal pencils either. ;)

[stathunter]

Film is dead.......let's put this to rest already.

[Wilt]

Film is dead.......let's put this to rest already.


...maybe true, only for the snapshooter, but there are clients still demanding pros shoot on film

[stathunter]

...maybe true, only for the snapshooter, but there are clients still demanding pros shoot on film

I know....just pulling a funny. I have been able to convince many of my high end corporate clients that digital is ok.......so I guess I am not helping the photo film industry.

[bildeb0rg]

I suppose... :D

Hey, now that we have digital cameras and illustration programs we don't need all those silly oil paints, pastels and charcoal pencils either. ;)

And thanks to the interbutt and wikipedia, we can close all the libraries too.;)

[Karl C]

Who uses film these days anyway? Digital all the way!!!

Sorry to disappoint you but it's not dead. There are certain genres where film still reigns over digital; specifically black and white along with medium/large format.

Stop by APUG.org (http://www.apug.org) sometime. You'll see otherwise. ;)

[cdifoto]

Film isn't dead. It's just in a coma.

[20droger]

Yes, just like Latin is not dead, because some people somewhere still know that it once existed. Right?
Drop by and we'll talk about it. But be sure to observe the sign I picked up as I passed through Pompeii. You know, the one that says "Cave canem."

[Karl C]

Film isn't dead. It's just in a coma.

You're Generation Y, right? :p

Drop by and we'll talk about it. But be sure to observe the sign I picked up as I passed through Pompeii. You know, the one that says "Cave canem."

Why is a big cat saying, "Beware of the dog?"

:lol:

[h0rde]

Drop by and we'll talk about it. But be sure to observe the sign I picked up as I passed through Pompeii. You know, the one that says "Cave canem."

In Pompeii? Are you sure the sign doesn't say CAVE VESVVIVM? :cool:

[cdifoto]

You're Generation Y, right? :p
I'm on the tail end of X. :p

[20droger]

The big cat keeps the dog as a pet. Or would if I were a dog person. And trust me, it would be a real dog, not one of those yippy, mindless, hyper-nervous, pees-with-the-slightest-excitement mutations.

"Cave canem" is a real sign found in several places in the ruins of Pompeii. Apparently, the lawyers were at work even then.

"Cave Vesvvivm" ("Cave Vesuvium" for those who only speak Middle Latin) would make sense only if they could have foreseen the eruption (at the local seer's house, perhaps?). After the eruption, such a sign would have been redundant.

[h0rde]

"Cave Vesvvivm" ("Cave Vesuvium" for those who only speak Middle Latin) would make sense only if they could have foreseen the eruption (at the local seer's house, perhaps?).
omnium enim vidit augur!

[OdiN1701]

Yes, just like Latin is not dead, because some people somewhere still know that it once existed. Right?

Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum immane mittam!

[ironron]

MY old AE1, sits sulking in the corner. Every time i walk past it gives me a dirty look:)
I feel sorry for the poor old chap.:cry:

[20droger]

MY old AE1, sits sulking in the corner. Every time i walk past it gives me a dirty look:)
I feel sorry for the poor old chap.:cry:
Buy it a roll of Tri-X. Film still produces the very best B&W. No printer ink can beat those silver salts!

[Karl C]

Buy it a roll of Tri-X. Film still produces the very best B&W. No printer ink can beat those silver salts!

Ding! Exactly...

However, not to start a huge debate, Ilford HP5+ is also very good. I'm having that argument with myself right now. Tri-X or HP5+. I've used both a few times in the past but had to rely on a local lab for processing, C41 processing no less. :rolleyes:

I did locate two pro labs for processing - one uses HC110, the other Xtol.

[Double Negative]

^ Good ol' HC110, heh.

Gimme some Rodinal or Technidol. Xtol is good too.

[Karl C]

Some claim Rodinal is the developer to use. That's the frustrating thing about film developing, especially for a newbie - which developer to use. From what I've read, most recommend choosing one developer and one film, then use them exclusively for a year while learning the process.

Rodinal, HC110, Xtol, D76, Ilford...the list goes on and on and on. :lol:

Regarding the two labs I located, the one using HC110 is in Chicago (85 miles away), the one using Xtol is in LA (1500 miles away). :lol:

[Double Negative]

There ARE an awful lot of developers out there. Some like Rodinal have been around forever (it's one of the oldest available). D76 is somewhat older also. A lot of people like Xtol, which is a bit newer. I always liked Technidol back in the day. HC110 was your basic developer... If you like the natural grain structure, it would be my choice. :p

But in the end, really, it's up to you to decide what "look" and characteristics you liked; acutance, grain, contrast, push/pull developing, etc. Experimenting is half the fun!

[Wilt]

HC110 dilution B...I cut my photojournalism teeth on that stuff, 40 years ago, in high school.

[Double Negative]

HC110 dilution B...I cut my photojournalism teeth on that stuff, 40 years ago, in high school.

Heh. That was my first developer as well. Good, cheap, readily available.

[breal101]

I wish we had the internet back in the day, Raw vs. jpg has nothing on the film and developer "discussions" we had then. Developer choice was religious in nature. But I did see an old fav discussion almost break out recently, Canon F-1 vs. Nikon F. :lol:

[h0rde]

Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum immane mittam!

ursum habeo. eum te edere docui nisi tuam catapultam rumpis edisque.

[Double Negative]

"Who you callin' a p*ssy communist?!"

[Karl C]

I read somewhere on the internet (always a trusted source ;) ) HC110 won't give box speed.

[20droger]

"Who you callin' a p*ssy communist?!"
Spoken like a true redneck! Sheriff Cyrus Buelton lives!

[Nick_b]

Hey! I'm just starting to play with film.

Alright this is what I've got and I live in Ottawa... tell me what to do. Where should I get it developed? Is it decent film? I'm looking for great looking grain and good tones.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k162/nickandaline/_MG_5751.jpg

Suggestions?

[JAcosta]

Since we're showing off our film bodies, here's mine:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3188/2590442364_da7593d94f.jpg

[randerson07]

Unless you have a good prolab nearby you will have to have a 1hr photo lab send that film out to get developed. Lately ive had Walmart do my classic B&W processing, its cheap and the results are not terrible. But once I get paid this month im shelling out to get the chemicals and tools needed to process my own B&W films, 1 week and counting.(GAAAAHHHH darn UPS I hate being paid once a month)

Ive never used the 3200, but ive used the 400 and its very good film, here are some examples of tmax 3200
http://www.flickr.com/search/groups/?q=tmax%203200&w=67377471%40N00&m=pool

[randerson07]

Since we're showing off our film bodies, here's mine:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3188/2590442364_da7593d94f.jpg

ooooohhhh aaaahhhhh slides on a light table. I picked up a few rolls of velvia, but havent had a good opportunity to shoot it yet.

Here are my cams, the one with the flash up is my 10D the rest are film
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/mbxb4/cameras1.jpg

Edit:Wow I never really looked at this pic after I took it. I took it for a friend to show all my cams in a hurry and posted it to photobucket rather than flickr cause I knew it was bad, but looking at it, its terrible lol. It was shot in a mirror at around 4am after some beers with a flashlight taped to the top of the mirror to light the scene cause the flash wasnt working well enough

[Karl C]

Hey! I'm just starting to play with film.

Alright this is what I've got and I live in Ottawa... tell me what to do. Where should I get it developed? Is it decent film? I'm looking for great looking grain and good tones.


Suggestions?

I wouldn't start with ISO 3200 film since it'll be very grainy. You'd better off starting with ISO 100 or 400 film, such as Kodak Tri-X 400 or Ilford FP4 (125) or Ilford HP5 (400).

I would agree with trying to find a pro lab. I presume you're in Ottawa Canada and the pro lab I know of that's "close" to you is Gamma Imaging in Chicago.

[Nick_b]

randerson thanks for that link some great shots in there!


Karl C thanks for the advice! I think I'm just going to get the one hour photo place to develop them for me for now (well get them to send it out to be developed).... I don't really want to send them away to Chicago!!! eeekk!

I do have a variety of film right now. I just finished an ISO 125 Ilford roll. I've got Tmax 400 and Tmax 3200. I'm planning on shooting a concert this weekend with the 3200. I'm on holidays next week and am planing on going camping, visiting the Toronto Zoo, Niagara Falls, and visit my brother and his wife who just had their first born today! I thought some B&W shots of the newest member of the family would look very nice.

[Double Negative]

Hey, I wanna play! (click for larger/info)

http://litpixel.com/ee/images/thumb/_1D_3089.jpg (http://litpixel.com/ee/photo.php?photo=1586&exhibition=9&ee_lang=eng&u=1241,0) http://litpixel.com/ee/images/thumb/345__1D_3076.jpg (http://litpixel.com/ee/photo.php?photo=1583&exhibition=9&ee_lang=eng&u=1241,1) http://litpixel.com/ee/images/thumb/df4__1D_3070.jpg (http://litpixel.com/ee/photo.php?photo=1584&exhibition=9&ee_lang=eng&u=1241,2) http://litpixel.com/ee/images/thumb/_1D_3061.jpg (http://litpixel.com/ee/photo.php?photo=1585&exhibition=9&ee_lang=eng&u=1241,3)

So um, who wants my extra 1v w/bp-e1 body? :D

[DrPablo]

Film still produces the very best B&W!And color. I'm sorry but a Bayer-interpolated grid with chrominance smoothing has nothing on ANY of the color films by Kodak or Fuji, and I refer to both slide and print films. The only trick is to not use a cheap scanner, which introduces another Bayer-interpolated grid with chrominance smoothing. But with RA4 or Ilfochrome processing, or with a good scanner, this is not an issue.

Ilford HP5+ is also very good. I'm having that argument with myself right now. Tri-X or HP5+.Can't beat HP5+. I shoot it at ISO 800 and push process all the time with phenomenal results. Gives me some extra speed for 8x10 when I need to stop down. I'm not a big fan of T-grained emulsions, except that Tmax 100 looks pretty cool for architectural subjects, and Delta 3200 is pretty damn fast.

As for developers, I'm a big xtol fan, but I've moved on to staining developers. I love PMK-Pyro, and I'm going to buy some Pyrocat HD next. Nothing masks grain or preserves highlights like staining developers.

Gimme some Technidol.That stuff is scary with Tech Pan. The contrast is so great that it may as well be pure black and white with no grayscale. I now develop Tech Pan in 1:3 xtol, and do semi-stand development to tame the contrast. I think for a flat subject I'd still use technidol, though.

Since we're showing off our film bodies, here's mine...Very nice. I shoot Astia and Velvia in 8x10 and believe me there is nothing in the world like an 8x10 chrome on a light table.

Here are two of my film bodies, my 8x10 (shot with Tmax 100 on a Hasselblad) and my 4x5. Below the shot of the 4x5 is the photo that I produced with that setup, a 1:1 macro on FP4+ enlarged to 11x14 and chemically toned with an iron-based toner.

http://www.pbase.com/drpablo74/image/81036665.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/drpablo74/image/72082732.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/drpablo74/image/72086028.jpg

[Nick_b]

Very cool Dr Pablo! I thought DSLRs were pricey! That must cost a small fortune to use!

Okay I've got a basic question.... how do you push ISO 800 to ISO 1600 with film? Do you simply underexpose the roll and push it in processing? What if you are not processing the film yourself, can you have the lab do that for you?

[randerson07]

Depends on the lab. I had walmart send out a roll of Tri-X 400 I shot at 1600 and they did it. The prints were crap, as was the photo cd I got back, but the negs were good and I was able to produce some good scans, you can see a couple here
http://www.flickr.com/search/?w=82308981%40N00&q=tri-x+pushed+to+1600&m=text

the last one on the page there, that size is how it came right out of the scanner, the rest of the neg must not be dense enough for the scanner to recognize there's an image there.

[Nick_b]

Great shots, I love the look. Now I gotta figure out how to manually set the ISO speed on my camera! haha.

[Double Negative]

Anybody else have some good samples of scanned 35mm?

[randerson07]

Great shots, I love the look. Now I gotta figure out how to manually set the ISO speed on my camera! haha.

You may have to just underexpose by 1 or 2 stops on purpose. On my Petri FT EE, the ISO dial only goes up to 800, if I wanted to shoot 1600 or higher I just need to under expose, which is not very easy with the craptastic needle meter it has.

[René Damkot]

I read somewhere on the internet (always a trusted source ;) ) HC110 won't give box speed.
In this case it's true...
Some developers get nearer to the quoted "box speed", but (very generally speaking), I've found that in most cases, for my diffuser enlarger (Leitz V35), the EI (exposure index) is about half of what the box says:
Neopan 1600: EI 800; Tmax 1+9; 8 1/2 minutes at 20 degrees C
Tmax 3200: EI 1600; Tmax 1+4; 8 minutes at 24 degrees C

HC 110 will give a bir different grain, and the EI will be about 1/3 stop slower.
Rodinal: Still different grain, still a bit slower.

How to find the EI of your film: Click (http://www.apogeephoto.com/mag2-6/mag2-6mfcalib.shtml)
Some more opinions on film developing: http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html
Okay I've got a basic question.... how do you push ISO 800 to ISO 1600 with film? Do you simply underexpose the roll and push it in processing? What if you are not processing the film yourself, can you have the lab do that for you?
Yes.
Some labs can do that.

There's always a price to pay though: You will get more grain, a higher contrast, and you'll loose shadow detail...

Anybody else have some good samples of scanned 35mm?
Not very good: These were all made on my old Sprintscan 35. That one did okay-ish with not too dense B&W negatives, but was so-so with color negs and horrible with slides...

Right now I'm in the process of scanning all my negatives (the more or less decent ones that is) with a Nikon Coolscan V. If I've finished some of those, I'll post a high res ;)

Some older scans:

Gallery 1 (http://www.moonglade.net/%7Erene/oude%20scans/)
Gallery 2 (http://www.moonglade.net/%7Erene/94_95_scans/)
Gallery 3 (http://www.moonglade.net/%7Erene/070528EllenTenDamme/)

[Nick_b]

I didn't get a chance to look through all the galleries but that "10ft pole" stage dive shot is great! I remember seeing them live, fun show.

My wedding was partially shot in Tmax film. I'll post some up when I get a second.

[Nick_b]

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k162/nickandaline/Wedding%20Day/00140009.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k162/nickandaline/Wedding%20Day/00140014.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k162/nickandaline/Wedding%20Day/00140022.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k162/nickandaline/Wedding%20Day/00140024.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k162/nickandaline/Wedding%20Day/00150009.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k162/nickandaline/Wedding%20Day/00150016.jpg

[tiziano]

Anybody else have some good samples of scanned 35mm?

Not me. My scanner sucks. It's a CanonScan 8600F, and for medium format is ok, but not for 35 mm.

35mm:
Pentax Spotmatic F
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a135/tiziano_bruno/experimental/5.jpg


Medium format:
Bronica ETRS
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a135/tiziano_bruno/BW/Bronica%20-%20Campaegli/7.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a135/tiziano_bruno/Orvieto/26.jpg



Rolleiflex 3.5F
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a135/tiziano_bruno/Portraits/family/11.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a135/tiziano_bruno/Portraits/family/5b.jpg

Bronica S2A

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a135/tiziano_bruno/Portraits/family/7.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a135/tiziano_bruno/Rome/Downtown%20with%20S2A/BW/2.jpg


Hesselblad 500CM
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a135/tiziano_bruno/Rome/Fori%20Imperiali/7.jpg

[Double Negative]

Some good stuff...

I haven't scanned prints/negs in over a decade and I'm looking to get back into it. Certainly hope that the tech/results have improved in this timeframe... :p

[tiziano]

Insted, I am giving up scanning. I want to have a 100% chemical workflow. I just bought a couple of enlargers, and soon I'll set up my dark room! :)
Film is more fun!!! You can mess up in a lot more ways!!! And you have a lot more gadgets to play with: filters, chemicals, enlargers...:D

[Double Negative]

I'm resisting unboxing my own darkroom... I may pull out the ol' tanks for film but I think that's as far as I wanna go right now! :p

[Karl C]

I'm resisting unboxing my own darkroom... I may pull out the ol' tanks for film but I think that's as far as I wanna go right now! :p

That's about as far as I would go too. Develop my own negs but use a scanner or send the negs to Scan Cafe.

[Double Negative]

That's about as far as I would go too. Develop my own negs but use a scanner or send the negs to Scan Cafe.

Exactly... I have a great printer and can do all the darkroom voodoo in PS. I have no desire to maintain expensive chemicals, etc. as much as I might miss, miss, miss the darkroom. But developing my negs, at least B&W - is a no-brainer. Don't know if I'd go so far as C-41/E-6... I'd probably send those out.

What I'm debating is whether or not it's worth having a lab develop the film and scan the negs - or scan stuff myself. For a couple hundred bucks for a good scanner, and considering how much film I'll shoot - it may pay to have the lab do it... IF the quality is there. Was thinking scanmyphotos.com or shutterfly.com maybe.

[Karl C]

Exactly... I have a great printer and can do all the darkroom voodoo in PS. I have no desire to maintain expensive chemicals, etc. as much as I might miss, miss, miss the darkroom. But developing my negs, at least B&W - is a no-brainer. Don't know if I'd go so far as C-41/E-6... I'd probably send those out.

What I'm debating is whether or not it's worth having a lab develop the film and scan the negs - or scan stuff myself. For a couple hundred bucks for a good scanner, and considering how much film I'll shoot - it may pay to have the lab do it... IF the quality is there. Was thinking scanmyphotos.com or shutterfly.com maybe.

From what I'm slowly learning, B&W neg processing is pretty simple. As to a lab doing the scan work, you might want to check out this (http://www.gammaimaging.com/svcd_highend.html) from Gamma Imaging. Or check out Scancafe.com for scanning.

[René Damkot]

Some older scans:

Gallery 1 (http://www.moonglade.net/%7Erene/oude%20scans/)
Gallery 2 (http://www.moonglade.net/%7Erene/94_95_scans/)
Gallery 3 (http://www.moonglade.net/%7Erene/070528EllenTenDamme/)
Forgot to mention:
First gallery is probably a mix of Practica LTL3 / Minolta / Nikon FM / Nikon FG / Nikon F801s
Second gallery probably all Nikon F801s
Last gallery Rollei 35T :lol:

and...

(Leitz V35)

[shameless plug]
For sale BTW :)
[/shameless plug]

[CincyShooter]

Have you all seen the price you would pay for Polaroid film. It is outrages. Around 13.99 for 10 photos and 24.99 for 20


And when it comes to scanning in Negatives, I head out to a Walgreen's or Walmart and have my negs processed and scanned to a CD for around 5 dollars.

[CincyShooter]

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a135/tiziano_bruno/Rome/Downtown%20with%20S2A/BW/2.jpg







You could be convicted of something with those fingerprints on there lol

[tiziano]

You could be convicted of something with those fingerprints on there lol

:lol:

These are not fingerprints. I wish they were... Gloves would be a solution! These are the orrible Newton rings, that show up when the film touchs the glass of the scanner... This happens when you buy a lousy scanner... :oops:

[DocFrankenstein]

:lol:

These are not fingerprints. I wish they were... Gloves would be a solution! These are the orrible Newton rings, that show up when the film touchs the glass of the scanner... This happens when you buy a lousy scanner... :oops:
Which one do you have?

BTW: The newton rings don't look too bad.

[rdenney]

Have you all seen the price you would pay for Polaroid film. It is outrages. Around 13.99 for 10 photos and 24.99 for 20

It's not so bad for view cameras. It takes a good hour to get everything set up anyway. I never used more than three or four frames of Polaroid in a day of field work.

On the general subject of developers: When I rebuilt my darkroom over 20 years ago, I decided I never wanted to mix powders again. So, I standardized on HC-110, dilution B, at 76 degrees, and then tested my whole workflow against that standard, using Ilford FP-4 both in 4x5 sheets and in 120 rolls. Being able to control tonality, ala the Zone System, meant more to whatever creative control I had then the variations in the look of different developers.

I never shot black and white with 35mm. That was for transparencies. If it was worth the effort of all that darkroom work, it was worth the effort of a big camera.

Before that, I had used Rodinal extensively with very-thin-emulsion films like Panatomic-X. I used it one-shot, diluted 1:60. It would have worked fine for the FP-4, too, but HC-110 was easier to buy locally.

I moved away from that darkroom 15 years ago and haven't had a darkroom since then. Life changed. Now, when I use the view camera, I do it with a roll-film back. But I don't do it very often any more. Maybe I'm just not good enough for it to be worth all that effort.

Rick "who always preferred field work to darkroom work" Denney

[tiziano]

Which one do you have?

BTW: The newton rings don't look too bad.

CanonScan 8600F. I hate that thing, and I am sure he fells the same way about me! :)

[randomlinh]

for you b&w shooters/scanners... any tips for using a scan dual III? Dust is the death of me. I've contemplated "scanning" with my 20D, and it sorta works.

[DrPablo]

I'm buying a drum scanner for about $1700, a Howtek 4500. It'll take up a lot of room, but I figure it's a better investment than getting things professionally scanned, and nothing is better than a drum scan.

Incidentally, I just got an 8x10" Astia transparency scanned on a Creo Eversmart Supreme II and printed at 16x20", a 2x enlargement. It's amazing, it's sharper at 16x20 than 35mm is at 3x5".

[randerson07]

for you b&w shooters/scanners... any tips for using a scan dual III? Dust is the death of me. I've contemplated "scanning" with my 20D, and it sorta works.

I blow my B&Ws off with a can of air as well as blowing the scanner clean. there's usually some residual dust, but its not as bad.

[Nick_b]

I got my first roll of Ilford ISO 125 back today. I had them scan the negatives. I think they did a good job. I think the scans look better then the prints I got back.

A few highlights from the roll.

#1Taken with an EOS 3000 and the 35mm 1.4

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k162/nickandaline/003_19A.jpg

not sure which lens this one was... for some reason I can't read the EXIF data!?!? :p
#2
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k162/nickandaline/014_6A.jpg
#3
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k162/nickandaline/012_12A.jpg

[breal101]

I'm buying a drum scanner for about $1700, a Howtek 4500. It'll take up a lot of room, but I figure it's a better investment than getting things professionally scanned, and nothing is better than a drum scan.

Incidentally, I just got an 8x10" Astia transparency scanned on a Creo Eversmart Supreme II and printed at 16x20", a 2x enlargement. It's amazing, it's sharper at 16x20 than 35mm is at 3x5".

Paul, the drum scanner sounds great. The main reason I never enjoyed scanning was knowing that I couldn't get everything a drum scan could with a desktop scanner. Be sure to post some results. I went to the Freestyle site the other day and noticed they had some good deals on out of date 8x10 film. It should still be good if recently expired and stored properly.

[Karl C]

I went to the Freestyle site the other day and noticed they had some good deals on out of date 8x10 film. It should still be good if recently expired and stored properly.

From what I know about Freestyle, they are a solid operation and the film was, more than likely, stored properly. Their retail store in Hollywood is great with a lot of inventory.

[breal101]

Thanks Karl, do you know how long they have been around? I think they were the place we used to order 4x5 film packs and bulk load film from way back in the day. They were always reliable then.

[Karl C]

Thanks Karl, do you know how long they have been around? I think they were the place we used to order 4x5 film packs and bulk load film from way back in the day. They were always reliable then.

I'm sorry I don't know. However, I've read good things about them on APUG (http://www.apug.org) and have visited the store. Their staff was knowledgeable.

You want want to touch base with DocFrankenstein from here; I believe he has purchased supplies from them.

EDIT: Here is their "About" (http://www.freestylephoto.biz/c_about.php) which indicates they've been in business since 1946.

[breal101]

I never knew they had a store, I ordered from a catalog by phone and mail. I'm not ready to order yet but keeping with the theme of the thread, the bulk load film prices at the Freestye website were about double the price we paid locally for 100 foot rolls in 1973. Not much of an increase really.

[DocFrankenstein]

I never knew they had a store, I ordered from a catalog by phone and mail. I'm not ready to order yet but keeping with the theme of the thread, the bulk load film prices at the Freestye website were about double the price we paid locally for 100 foot rolls in 1973. Not much of an increase really.
Freestyle is awesome. I am buying my film from them and have dealt with their service.

I can't say anything but recommend them highly to anybody who shoots film.

[breal101]

Freestyle is awesome. I am buying my film from them and have dealt with their service.

I can't say anything but recommend them highly to anybody who shoots film.

Have you tried any of the exotic films, orthos or infrared? The Rollei R3 looks interesting, a bit pricey and needs special developer but might be really cool if as advertised. I do see a considerable increase in the price of 120 roll film in general.

[DocFrankenstein]

Have you tried any of the exotic films, orthos or infrared? The Rollei R3 looks interesting, a bit pricey and needs special developer but might be really cool if as advertised. I do see a considerable increase in the price of 120 roll film in general.
I don't care much for the film I'm using to be honest. There's way too much difference between the spectral responses of the meters I'm using, the filters and the actual emulsions. In the end I just guesstimate it and hope for the best. 95% of the time I get nice negatives.

Every emulsion has a different sensitivity curve. And there's not one line which says which film is panchromatic and which one is orthocromatic. I'd classify the EFKE25 I shoot as orthochromatic, but most people seem to call it pan.

I never experimented with IR - it's been done too often in digital and I never had a chance to use it.

The most exotic of my techniques is pushing ISO 400 tabular films two to three stops. I like the results.

[DrPablo]

I went to the Freestyle site the other day and noticed they had some good deals on out of date 8x10 film.Where did you find it there? I've never seen that on their site and I can't find it now. I'd love to find out of date 8x10 film, especially color film.

[breal101]

Paul, it was listed under Specials>Limited Offers less than a week ago. Now I don't see it, just 11x14 which was there before. Looks like it moves fast when offered.