Settings for animal shots

[Dingo Boy]

I am a scientist studying dingoes (Australia's wolf). I'm shooting with a 30d and a 100-400 IS lens.

A photographer at my local zoo told me that when I take animal shots I should put it on aperture priority, and have it so the it is as big as possible (4.5), so that I am always getting the quickest shutter speed. He also advised to put it on centre focus. and to use 400 iso.

I have been doing this for a year now, and although I have taken some good shots doing this, find that I have some trouble getting everything to focus how I want, and find it impossible to shoot in low light conditions (ie around dusk or very overcast). I have missed out on some great shots.

Can people please give me some advice as to what settings they use when taking wildlife photos. I need something quick to setup. Is the settings that this photographer told me correct?

Please help!

[tommykjensen]

Yes basically its correct however the 100-400 is not the best lens for low light shots. You may need to use flash and a tripod.

[kevin_c]

You could 'up' the ISO to 800, this will give you more depth-of-field to get more apearing in focus. The trade-off of course is a bit more 'noise' in the images.
As Tommy said, for low light you may need to use flash. or get a faster lens (f/2.8 for instance)

[BOSS]

"Australias Wolf"?????? don't think so!!

Now as for lens, research the f2.8 series and a TC and you should be getting the shots you want.

Wolf....oh dear. And yes I do know that dogs are descended from the Wolf,the Dingo is a dog a native dog to Australia which is currently under threat,as a pure breed,from wild domestic dogs interbreeding.

Dingo not Dingoe.
Sure you are a scientist???

[Pete]

As stated, use a higher ISO for darker conditions. I have the 100-400 and it's not fantastic in low light conditions, so stay as wide open on the aperture as you can.

Another alternative would be to use a flashgun (if allowed).

[Pete]

"Australias Wolf"?????? don't think so!!

Now as for lens, research the f2.8 series and a TC and you should be getting the shots you want.

Wolf....oh dear. And yes I do know that dogs are descended from the Wolf,the Dingo is a dog a native dog to Australia which is currently under threat,as a pure breed,from wild domestic dogs interbreeding.

Dingo not Dingoe.
Sure you are a scientist???

f/2.8 lenses (while desirable) are often too expensive for normal people to afford, especially at such focal lengths.

And "Dingoes" is the correct plural for a Dingo.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dingo

[PhotosGuy]

I vote for ISO 1600. It doesn't have to look bad if you get the exposures right on.
High ISO and Noise reduction (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=429661)

Gavin shoots everything & provides fun captions as well.
The week's sporting events in images... (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=443789)

First set the f-stop & shutter speed you need. Then adjust the ISO.
Need an exposure crutch? (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=89123)

This shows how the subject can affect the exposure & why manual keeps me worry free:
Post #47 (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showpost.php?p=5191658&postcount=47)

[Dingo Boy]

Boss, it is clear that your knowledge of dingoes is minimal, and this forum is certainly not the place to debate such issues. Thanks however for your advice on taking wildlife shots.

I guess by the looks of it that what I am doing is essentially correct (in good light conditions), which is pleasing to know. I wish I could buy a 70-200 but cannot afford to at this stage as Pete suggested. Manual options are also difficult given that by the time i get it right, the dingo has moved!

Some of the photos i have taken of dingoes can be found at www.howlingdingo.com.au under the photos page.

Having it on aperture priority at its biggest size is obvioulsy effective in most situations, but not for everything.

My next question then is about spot metering and focus points. At the moment I use centre spot focus, and the evaluation meter (metering mode) where all the circle is highlighted (is that evaluative metering?). Is this the best setting to use, as I have not yet worked out which is best.

Thanks everyone

[Dingo Boy]

I am also having issues with my lens (100-400) creating lines in the background of images. I have posted some picture on this link. perhaps you may also be able to help with that too?

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showpost.php?p=5757469&postcount=93

[Pete]

Bradley,

First off, the weird lines in those sample shots is something that's known from the 100-400 - it can happen when the background is of a particular quality (narrow lines) at a particular distance behind the subject. Changing the aperture may go some way to mitigating these lines (but then again 80-90% of the visitors to your site won't bat an eyelid - they'll be looking at the Dingoes).

Centre-spot focus will give you the most reliable results, but you've probably noticed that if the dingo is fairly close to you, you may see his it's shoulder in focus, but head is soft. It might be worthwhile for you to practice changing AF point and using the one that's most relevant to what you're shooting.

As for metering modes, it depends on the lighting. Sometimes partial will work better than evaluative - it's something you'll have to check the lcd for to get the best contrasted shots.

Yes, you could get a 70-200 f/2.8, but as you're probably aware, it'll limit your "reach".

Instead, choose a higher ISO. You should be able to get away with 800 and higher without significant loss of image quality.

[Dingo Boy]

Thank you so much Pete for your advice! Much appreciated.

[Pete]

No problem, Bradley. Look forward to seeing more of your work.

[ryant35]

You could 'up' the ISO to 800, this will give you more depth-of-field to get more apearing in focus. The trade-off of course is a bit more 'noise' in the images.
As Tommy said, for low light you may need to use flash. or get a faster lens (f/2.8 for instance)

Wait a minute... iso 800 gives you more depth of field? huh?

[kevin_c]

Wait a minute... iso 800 gives you more depth of field? huh?

No, not in itself, but it will allow you to use one stop smaller aperture which will (compared to using ISO400) ;)

Badly worded i know...

[ryant35]

No, not in itself, but it will allow you to use one stop smaller aperture which will (compared to using ISO400) ;)

Badly worded i know...

yeah but when you are shooting in low light you need the largest aperature possible. I don't think the 100-400 at 400mm & f/5.6 has an depth of field problems.

[kevin_c]

yeah but when you are shooting in low light you need the largest aperature possible. I don't think the 100-400 at 400mm & f/5.6 has an depth of field problems.

I was addressing the "I have some trouble getting everything to focus how I want" comment, and the fact that the shutter speed may be a bit low in low light - Upping the ISO gains you faster shutter or more dof - take your pick...

Ultimately you either need more light or a faster lens.

[ryant35]

I was addressing the "I have some trouble getting everything to focus how I want" comment, and the fact that the shutter speed may be a bit low in low light - Upping the ISO gains you faster shutter or more dof - take your pick...

Ultimately you either need more light or a faster lens.


Oh. Sorry.:oops: I must have read the OP a little too quickly.

[BOSS]

Dingo Boy and Pete....I stand corrected.....good luck with your pics.

[Dingo Boy]

Thanks everyone for comments.
So in summary I guess, the settings used to take animal shots (such as dingoes) is to:
put it on aperture priority, spot focus, evaluative metering (or partial, depending on what your photographing), and adjust the iso up to 800 depending on light.

regarding the problem i am having with 'double imaging' or the lines created in the background (see http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=295056&page=7), it appears that there is a problem with the 100-400 that when a background consists of grass/shrubbery, and isnt too far away from subject it creates these lines. Does anyone else experience this? I think its crazy that such an expensive lens has these issues-does this mean the more expensive the lens the more temperamental it is?

[PhotosGuy]

put it on aperture priority, spot focus, evaluative metering (or partial, depending on what your photographing),... I wouldn't, which is why I posted the exposure links. You can make it easy, or make it hard & figure EC & metering modes. ;)

[dfrois]

Maybe I`m wrong, but I think the 30d has real spot metering. If so, and if you want to get the exposure on the animals body correct, I would suggest using spot-metering from the animals body, and then lock exposure to re-compose if necessary.

[tonylong]

Thank you so much Pete for your advice! Much appreciated.

One other bit of advice that hasn't been mentioned: if the dingo is moving, you want to use AI Servo. That is an AF mode in which the camera tracks a moving object and adjusts focus on the fly. You have to keep your shutter button half-pressed to keep this active, but it saves you having to continually half-press to refocus. Or, you can move the focus function to your * button on the back of the camera and use your thumb to activate focus.

The 30D will work fine at ISO 800 (if you can get a good exposure), less so at 1600 but if that's what you need, use it.

As far as lenses go, the 100-400 is probably your best bet outside of a very expensive super-telephoto lens. If the lighting is really dim, such as before sunrise, you will have a struggle -- ISO 1600 for sure at f/5.6 will still mean a slow shutter speed. Use a tripod or at least a monopod for those times, but you will see blur from moving animals. Use a continuous shutter mode to give yourself the best chance of getting "keepers".

Good luck and good shooting!

[tonylong]

regarding the problem i am having with 'double imaging' or the lines created in the background (see http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=295056&page=7), it appears that there is a problem with the 100-400 that when a background consists of grass/shrubbery, and isnt too far away from subject it creates these lines. Does anyone else experience this? I think its crazy that such an expensive lens has these issues-does this mean the more expensive the lens the more temperamental it is?

The 100-400 isn't known for great "bokeh" or background blur. So, you are seeing out-of-focus grass/weeds that come out sharper (or more granular) than one might like. You'd get better results with a fixed supertelephoto lens but they are quite spendy.

[tommykjensen]

The 100-400 isn't known for great "bokeh" or background blur. So, you are seeing out-of-focus grass/weeds that come out sharper (or more granular) than one might like. You'd get better results with a fixed supertelephoto lens but they are quite spendy.

Hmm I think it produces great bokeh

http://photo.klein-jensen.dk/photohtml.php?n=20070918_leopardfemale2.jpg

[Pete]

Hmm I think it produces great bokeh

http://photo.klein-jensen.dk/photohtml.php?n=20070918_leopardfemale2.jpg

I know only too well. But in certain circumstances, the bokeh can be pretty ugly.

[tonylong]

Hmm I think it produces great bokeh

http://photo.klein-jensen.dk/photohtml.php?n=20070918_leopardfemale2.jpg

I know only too well. But in certain circumstances, the bokeh can be pretty ugly.

I think it depends, but I've noticed those unpleasant renderings of grasses on many occasions. Possibly the bokeh is better when not fully extended at f/5.6...certainly it would be better if the background was farther from the critter than sometimes is the case. But when you're in the field, you don't get to choose your background!

[Dingo Boy]

Hmm I think it produces great bokeh

http://photo.klein-jensen.dk/photohtml.php?n=20070918_leopardfemale2.jpg

Mate you have some fantastic photos here. I especially like the lioness and her cub, and the Tasmanian Devil shot.
I like the way you try and fill the entire frame with the subject-it creates special photos indeed, and i try and do the same.

I have to agree though, when i dont have grass as a background, I get fantastic bokeh on the 100-400.

Good suggestion re: use of AI focus, I wasnt using this before and i cant believe i wasnt doing that earlier.
also, i was not aware that i could take the iso so high, i was always worried about grain, but it doesnt seem to be that bad, even at 1000iso. and there is also software to reduce grain too, eg noise ninja, which i have only just discovered.

[Dingo Boy]

Another question: do people like to use Image Stabilizer all the time.
I know people that dont trust IS (given that there is moving parts involved, and it could be countering your own movement when you are trying to stabilize), and only use it when in real low light.

What are peoples thoughts. should i have IS on ALL the time?

Also, I am confused as to the difference between IS 1 and IS 2...

[tommykjensen]

I always use IS. The only real reason not to use it is when using a tripod. Then it should be disabled.

Mode 1 is normal stabilisation. Mode 2 is for panning so it only stabilises vertically.


Thanks for the comments on my photos. I do prefer closeup photos of animals.

[Pete]

Good suggestion re: use of AI focus, I wasnt using this before and i cant believe i wasnt doing that earlier.
also, i was not aware that i could take the iso so high, i was always worried about grain, but it doesnt seem to be that bad, even at 1000iso. and there is also software to reduce grain too, eg noise ninja, which i have only just discovered.

AI Servo AF can be useful of your dingoes are walking around, but for static shots, it's easier to use Single Shot AF ( then you know exactly what's being focused on).

I've never been a fan of using noise reduction software. Always reduce the shot to the dimensions you'll be using before you look at noise - downsizing is often the most effective noise reduction method.

I always use IS. The only real reason not to use it is when using a tripod. Then it should be disabled.

Mode 1 is normal stabilisation. Mode 2 is for panning so it only stabilizes vertically.

Slight correction - IS mode 2 (panning) locks the stabilisation to the plane of movement (regardless of whether you're panning horizontally, vertically, or diagonally).

[tommykjensen]

Slight correction - IS mode 2 (panning) locks the stabilisation to the plane of movement (regardless of whether you're panning horizontally, vertically, or diagonally).

Ahh didn't know that :o

[Pete]

Ahh didn't know that :o

Most panning is horizontal, of course.. :D

[condyk]

Dingo ... in your position I would experiment around the hints given above. Seems you took one guys advice and have followed it all this time while getting results that sometimes didn't work. By experimenting we have opportunity to learn. By following what others say rote style then we don't.

Depending on whether you need 400mm or not then you could sell the 1-4 and get a Sigma 100-300mm f4.0 EX HSM DG and a monopod. This will give better IQ and greater aperture for lower light and at less money. No IS/OS and you lose 100mm.

But the key overall is to realise through experience how shutter speed, aperture and ISO work together in any given situation because then you can respond to get the best shot.

For info., my 'default' wildlife settings are 100 to 400 ISO, f8.0 and using AV with any variation depending on desired results and conditions. Also worth saying that you might often need more DOF to get an animal better in focus, so a 'faster' lens used wide open just might not get you a shot anyway although in theory it will be 'better' in lower light. Nice to have the speed option though.

Finally, the 1-4 can have sharpness issues wide open at 400mm. Stop down to f8.0 and should be much better. Seems a copy to copy issue rather than a problem implicit in the design. You will then need to up the ISO to get the shutter speeds you need is light is not so good.

[Dingo Boy]

very wise comments Condyk, thanks. i have to admit i have been lazy in not learning it all properly-i just always wanted the easy way out, and didnt want to risk missing a shot because i was playing around. I know better now :)

I have posted some dingo photos on here now, just to show you some of the shots i have been taken http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=526552